Unfortunately he's right. The hole is there to be locked and tagged. You will have a hard time finding any outlet using a spring loaded ball to retain the plug - they will all use simple spring clips. Further, the operation to punch the holes and the quality issues with aligning the holes means that it's more expensive to have the hole than the teeny amount of metal saved. You know a little too much, please humble yourself. Like, how can you possibly bring up the lockout/tagout for industrial machinery that will never, ever use a NEMA 1 plug for single phase? You can even find name-brand industrial lock-out devices for $6 on Amazon that use the lockout holes to lockout the plug.
Source: I used to design plugs and receptacles.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Circuit-Breaker-Lockout/dp/B004J173I8?th=1
Leaving the circuit shorted won't prevent someone from flipping the breaker back on, and if you happen to be upstream of the short when that happens (and also touching the hot wire) you will become the short.
[here's one] that works with decora (rocker type) light switches (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Lockout-Universal-496B/dp/B001925P6W/ref=asc_df_B001925P6W/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167150389150&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18441822094209114815&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hv...)
Thanks for all of your help!
I found something that works PERFECTLY.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001925P6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can remove the inside toggles and it fits the entire power button panel PERFECTLY.
It leaves plenty of room for your fingers to mash buttons. I am going to use 3mm screws to install them without damaging the board underneath since the top of the controller is pretty thick.
While looking through his inventory, I ended up buying one of these with a small lock: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001925P6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm hoping it's big enough and if the button can't fit, I'm just going to rip apart the inside until it fits haha.
You may not be able to find the breaker, but you can very likely find a light switch and switch lockouts are a thing.
You obviously have to be careful with that method because if it's a large space or a hallway there's likely more than one switch.
Other than that you're right to keep refusing to work hot. No you absolutely don't "have to." What this guy is telling you to do is an illegal labor law violation. Don't let people bully you into following their stupidity.
Master Lock 493B Lockout Tagout Circuit Breaker Lockout, Standard Single and Double Toggles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J173I8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5G8MY9R3MHYXKQMY0MBQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Install some loto devices to ensure you keep power?
Some sockets do have a little bump inside to engage the holes in the plug.
Some even have a lock that engages it with a mechanical release, I've mostly seen it on extension cords, they lock when inserted and there's a button on the outside to release.
I question this one, but it wouldn't "shock me" if somewhere far enough back this is on a patent or a design document somewhere.
I believe that's how these work...
https://www.amazon.ca/Master-Lock-S2005-110-120V-Lockout/dp/B001HWF4ME
I've never used one though, only the "clam shell" sort that fully encloses the plug.
This one seems the least like. I'm sure if you were making large quantities of plugs, you'd sell the bits for scrap, but I can't see the company making the plugs also being the ones recycling the metal, so I assume you'd only be getting scrap weight price for them.
There's a extra cost associated with punching them out, vs not punching them put too.
The short answer is yes there are plenty of ways, numerous even, to safely switch the 240v dryer.
But if you’re not an electrician none of them are going to be something you are going to want to do.
Personally, if you were my friend and didn’t want to spend the money it would take to have some one qualified do what you need I would offer this, you just need to get the NEMA identification number off the cord cap that is on the cord you plug the dryer in with and buy/find the appropriate lockout device for it.
Unplug it, lock it. Done deal man.
Not sure if the link will work but search Amazon for cord cap lockout and you’ll have a good start.
they make locks for the handles. if they can't turn the handle, they can't use the water
https://www.amazon.com/ZING-7103-RecycLockout-Valve-Lockout/dp/B0078QQZ58
https://www.amazon.com/Echaprey-Multifunctional-Anti-theft-Water-tap-Protection/dp/B07MNFLMJD
I've used the Brady ones like others have posted, and the link you have. I also like these because they work well in 277 & 120 breakers, and on some you can even close the door on the panel with lock and all. And on top of that they are cheaper, and have both metal & plastic construction, which I trust a tad more.
Those are pretty much what our breakers look like, so I'll probably pick a couple of those up.
And yeah - I think he thought it had tripped. Guess I should have announced that I was messing with stuff.
Edit: BTW, those are cheaper on Amazon.
If all else fails, perhaps a locking cover plate will fit over the timer switch.
Something like this: Master Lock Universal Wall Switch Lockout https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001925P6W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_K5CRvb7ZJAZB0
I would say to possibly get something like this so that when YOU are not using it you can lock it so someone can't turn it on by ""accident""