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A no spill coolant funnel. It saves mess, burns and aggravation. Just fill it half full and let the air burp out while you tend to other things.
EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1q3zAb7ZPJXM1
bleed the system properly.
I can almost guarantee you have air in the system. if you're not noticing the level dropping.
to bleed the car properly watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
you can get that funnel off amazon Lisle spill free funnel
you can certainly do it without that funnel but you'll be in for a messy/sticky job and you'll let fluid spill all over the damn place.
Lots of people seem to really struggle getting all of the air bled from the coolant on the KA for some reason. Jack up the front and use one of these funnels. let the car come up to temp with the heater on defrost, full heat, full blast. might need to rev it a few times. You may still have air trapped in there. if so, with that thing about a third or half full, it'll be the high point on the system and the air will escape there. Don't fill it more than half of the funnel, the coolant will expand as it heats.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
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especially from your statement that there is no hot air coming out in defrost.
100% you've still got air trapped in there.
Didn’t you have to clean up the cardboard? It’s easier to clean a pan than a bag or cardboard. We kept reusing our pan until we splurged on this thing called an Oil Udder, mainly splurged since back surgery is coming up soon. Hubby loves it and now I don’t have to help as much.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LGRP33M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VZDBSM8WNE03XDBZH7AF
Then I will keep an eye out on the radiator to see if I need to top out any coolant
--That step is crucial and many forget to keep an eye on the coolant level after driving it around.
I'd definitely get a good radiator funnel for burping like the one linked below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6AS6LY/
Yeah. I did a top-fill using a nifty tool from Amazon. I drained using the exterior metal plug and let it stop. Then removed the inner plastic tube and let it drain all the way out. While that was goin I removed the battery and intake box, removed the filter and cleaned the inner threads as well as the filter housing. Applied clean fluid around the new seal and replaced in the channel it sits in. I then replaced the inner tube drain plug and stuck my funnel and tube tool directly into the hole where the filter rests and filled 1L at a time. Then replaced the exterior drain plug hand-tight and let the transmission get up to temperature. Car was fairly hot from driving earlier in the day still so it was pretty quick to drain and get back up to temp. Let it run and then removed the metal plug to drain excess and then torqued it back in with the fresh washer. Easy peasy!
The tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xVzKBbGV45VK5
I had a similar issue once after doing a coolant flush. The car had one of those stupid ass pressurized reservoirs and no cap on the radiator. I thought I bled the system thoroughly enough but, NOPE!
Took it for a test drive around the neighborhood and that needle started to rise after less than a minute. I shut it down immediately. Fortunately, I was still on my street.
I let things cool down and then tried another bleeding process. Come to find out, I had a pretty massive air bubble as during my second bleed, a big gulp of coolant finally got sucked down. After that she was good.
I've found that using one of these makes the coolant bleeding process so much easier and cleaner.
Never had an issue again after using this.
Not sure about your other problems, but you have air in your coolant system. The much hotter air pocket is periodically hitting the temp sensor, that’s why you’re getting random spikes of overheating. The reservoir keeps puking for the same reason - air expands a lot more than water so it’s forcing whatever coolant is caught between the pocket and dump line into the reservoir.
You need something like this to properly burp your system: OEMTOOLS 87009 No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit, Near Universal Fitment, Translucent, 15 Piece Set, Cooling System Funnel Allows Access To Hard-To-Reach Radiators https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01A2CQSU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_7wu6FbH9CFYS1
Depending on where the cap is vs the highest point in your system, you may also need to angle the car a certain way on a driveway while you’re doing it. Hope this helps
Hmm interesting I just received the lisle one from amazon and was about to return it since the caps don’t fit. Which adapter and cap did you use to get a tight seal?
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the one I got, I’m not sure if it’s the same one you have. I would love to use that one you linked but i don’t have compressed air which is a bummer.
bleed it like normal but have the a/c on full heat when you do it. this circulates the coolant in your heater core as well to rid of air pockets. sounds like there’s still air in the system. also if you could get a coolant funnel that would be ideal.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Did my DSG Service about a month ago for about $160. Took me a while but I saved a lot of money. I also took the battery and battery tray out and filled it through the too hole, rather than the bottom gravity fill. Very easy. Just time consuming.
•https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
•https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGPR1HW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Watch a video on burping your cooling system, and get a kit like this one to help. Air gets into the system to replace the coolant volume that spilled out when you changed the t-stat, and the air blocks the flow of coolant through the system. That results in the heater core not having any heat and preventing getting the hot coolant from getting from the engine block to the radiator where it could get cooled properly.
I got this, have used it on three cars already. The fill cap on the Sienna is kinda awkward, and this has enough tubes and elbows to make it easy to reach
Get the Gates brand water pump.
Don't use that shitty "universal" coolant. I actually recommend flushing really well and switching to G05. Much better for systems that mix Iron and Aluminum components.
Get this fill kit. Makes refilling and mixing so much easier.
I've been using this funnel to fill mine up under the cabinet, works really well. Just be careful not to overfill since you can't really see the level....I usually just listen for the water no longer splashing and stop there
I overflowed once and it was a pain to clean, luckily doesn't seem any damage done
I always used distilled water. Some will say it doesn't matter and others will say to only use distilled. It's $1 or so a gallon for distilled water so what's an extra $10?
However, the process of draining and flushing is pretty cut and dry, but the refill process can be tricky when dealing with air pockets.
I suggest purchasing one of these. I have never experienced air pockets using this. Makes the refill process quick and clean as well.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE
The radiator version with the stopper is really slick.
> is just as true about any driveway catchpan setup
Show me how this is easier to spill than a bucket you amoeba.
Not sure what vehicle you have, but most 1MZFE engines have a radiator cap on the radiator or thermostat housing.
Personally I use the Lisle 'no spill funnel kit' and the Toyota adapter that comes with it:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
these are the workshop manual steps on bleeding the system and coolant ratios. from what it seems is you are running 70/30 coolant and that made be part of the problem. try a 50/50 mix.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6
try using something like this to fill the radiator and cooling system with as it will use the pressure of the coolant to push out the air pockets. if that doesn't help with the problem have the cooling system checked for combustion gases getting into the system.
Have fun bleeding the coolant lmao. Get this if you don’t want to suffer https://www.amazon.com/Thorstone-Radiator-Automotive-Antifreeze-Universal/dp/B097BHJJPS?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AMHYB4QGJB7JJ
You have to modify it by changing the plastic rings on one of them. There’s a forum post about it somewhere
The thermostat is probably closed because there is air in your system. If you've changed it 3 times in 4 months I think it's very likely you may have a leak where combustion gasses from the engine get into the coolant lines, or you just have air in your system. Your best bet would be to get a lisle funnel, jack the front of the car up put the heat on high, and let it idle until it reaches operating temp. When the thermostat opens make sure the coolant in the lisle funnel doesn't run low. When the car is operating temp let rev it at a constant rpm (2-2.5k) until you feel the heat coming out the vents, and the bubbles stop from the funnel. After that turn the car off and leave the funnel connected with coolant while it cools down for maybe 45ish minutes. The reason for this is there could still be a bit of air trapped and these cars are a pain to bleed. My first car was also a G35, loved it but got rid of it because of a partially blown Head gasket. Regret getting rid of it but such is life. Good luck
Those motors are notoriously difficult to bleed the cooling systems on. Watch a YouTube vid on it for the exact way to do it and any tricks and tips. Definitely need to open bleeder, and having the correct funnel helps immensely.
Coolant - Revzilla (Its the premixed OEM Kawasaki)
Funnel - Any long funnel will work. The one I use is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXRH5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Heads up - if you are just topping off the coolant from the low to full-line, you need just a tiny amount. So pour slow, straighten and center bike and check/repeat
+1 for u/BeastandTheBrat , only thing i can add is during the whole process squeeze the upper radiator hose to generate fluid movement, it'll help create a vacuum that'll get the fluid moving faster and getting the air out should be a breeze.
There are special tool kits that help with the process but are fairly useless in situations like this where the access to the radiator and tank is readily available and you're not working with a big engine with large coolant capacity.
If you’re worried about it, buy one of these and never worry about it again, it’s become one of my most used tools: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=2621F10N5VLEP&keywords=coolant+burp+kit&qid=1650473374&sprefix=coolant+bur%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGV...
I know it's also a much smaller capacity, but in the case of vehicles I've also been spoiled by funnels with internal plungers to re-seal the flow that are used to bleed air out of coolant systems. eg: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=4KVCJS9TL581
I went OEM, more for my own piece of mind than anything else. I also used this funnel kit for topping off the coolant and getting rid of the air bubbles.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6
This guy did a great vid on the swap and coolant top off and air bubble bleed off.
I learned this the hard way when I was flushing the system a while back. The best method of burping that I could come up with was letting it idle on an incline for 45 min with one of those radiator spill proof funnel kits attached to the radiator.
Btw, this is the funnel I used to help get all the air out of the system. It's not something that will get used often, but it sure made that job easier.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_AYH7KBNND12XTPM10TMT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1