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For anyone who wants to have a non lethal go at this: witness.
I tried it. It still kinda sucks but I didn't have to call poison control.
If it's a small scratch, I've heard this works well. Personally though, I'd wait a bit until you are more used to the dimensions of the car. It will very likely happen again.
I've gotten to using this: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS
Apply with terry cloth rag and wait a few, and wipe off. I have yet to replace any seals, including on a 2 decade old VW that's been parked outside in California sun.
I read on several forums that this is a perfect match. I ordered, but haven't actually used it yet, so I can't give you my personal endorsement.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE66OK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need to get some legal paperwork in place that can secure not only your current and future medical care in your partners name, but that also explicitly excludes your mom.
If you do get another dog, service or other, get it microchipped and add in the coding that noone but you or partner are to make medical choices. At least its some attempt of control.
Also, hopefully this gives your a smile. Since everyone needs a chance on the fury road. https://www.amazon.ca/Wilton-710-5521-Silver-Color-Mist/dp/B005KTVG86
I used a Dremel to smooth out the spot, 4 coats of paint and one of the sealant listed below. Very easy and looks good.
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECOlDb09DPAAS
Thanks, useful to know specifically where the failure happened.
Anyone using gear like this: Use LockTite Threadlocker or something similar on all threaded parts meant to stay put!
That more or less happens to everyone. The car is wider than any of us are used to by a few inches and the tire itself doesn't stick out... it's really common. But I feel your pain... I did the same thing within the first month when I got the car and I was totally deflated over it too.
You could take it to a body shop - which will likely cost $50-150. Or - since you are likely to do it again - you could just do the poor man's fast fix method which passes the 10ft test (if you look from 10ft or so away, it looks fine) by buying this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-AFM0360-Exact-Match-Scratch-Touch-Up/dp/B00HE66OK8
For best results, use some sandpaper to sand the area flat, and then shake it well and apply... but I never do the sandpaper thing any more. It's not a perfect match - it's slightly too dark - but it is very close. think I've scratched my rims about 6-8 times over my 29 months of ownership (Feb. 2018 to now). I just go out now and again and touch them up... they look ok as long as you don't look too closely.
It looks like they've been re scraped but hard to say for sure. There is rust removing solution:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_020QN53ZBH7X92QXTZ9P
I've read people using vinegar also but haven't tried myself.
Good call on the seal grease, I use the Honda stuff on my BMW Z3 seals, you can buy it on Amazon:
Honda Grease
I did it the hard way and borrowed a 5" sander with several discs of sandpaper, so I only spent about $15 for the paint. The 5" sander was way too big to control for such a small area, and in retrospect, it would be way easier if you have a cordless drill and just pick up a 2" or 3" foam disc adapter like this with some pieces of sandpaper. Start with a lower grit like 80, then go over the areas two or three more times with higher grits to make them smooth. Then just clean and touch up with paint.
It may not be 100% perfect doing it yourself, but the paint is a perfect match, and honestly it's a huge waste of money to get this done professionally unless you are super picky.
DO NOT USE WD-40, i made that mistake. It has too much residue buildup and not for oiling. Use Superlube or anything that is strictly PTFE
Yep: https://smile.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS
It's pricey but a tube lasts a LONG time. I bought mine in September 2016 and still have a lot left. I've only done the windows on one NA but have used it for other things a few times.
I’m an idiot as well and curbed my back rim on the very first day I had the car. I purchased some touch up paint from Amazon for 15 bucks and fixed it myself though. Looks decent enough. Not perfect but you’d never know unless you’re looking at it up close. This paint matches the aeros pretty much spot on:
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/
edit: I see someone else indirectly sent you to the same product. I used it, it’s fine. I’m not paying for professional repair to only do it again. :-) Covering it up works well enough. It stops that annoying/embarrassing strobe effect that you get when you have the bare metal rotating and reflecting..
Never tried wheel bands but I had the same thing happen to me 2 weeks ago and I was realllly pissed at myself. I ended up removing the aerocap, sanding the scratched area(s) with 320 grit, then touch-up painting it with this: Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N092XSG0BAH4M787Y6WG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Let me know if you wanna see how some before/after pics.
This is why I hate poly bushings. You gotta grease them like a pig at a county fair.
Get one of those spray cans of White Lithium grease and some Super Lube and just soak everything. You might have to take apart some of the suspension to get at the offending areas.
If there are grease points, get Super Lube in a cartridge and have a dedicated grease gun for it.
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought this from amazon and it worked great. Has a coarse end to sand it down and matches perfectly.
If it’s the same color as my 2018 Model 3 LR 18 inch rims, then this is almost exactly the same: Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_STihFbB2KHY4D
Locktite blue 242. This is removable (which is what OP wants in this case obviously). If you want a permanent bond the red 271 is what you want.
Evaporust will clean it up nice. It doesn’t even remove paint.
Evapo-Rust ER004 , The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 32 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSOJSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KM4XTZQVJ2MQWKV44GEC
I will add that for some reason the slipper on my Slash kept loosening every time I'd run it, so ended up needing to put some (removable) threadlocker on it, equivalent to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/
Just make sure you don't get the permanent stuff.
Not sure why this started being an issue for me; last track day had been a few months before in snow. Got it out and it ran for about 15 seconds before getting too loose to move, and did the same the next two times I tightened it, until I added the threadlocker.
I have a black knife too and I thought I was ok with distressing but turns out I'm not. This stuff works awesome to restore the black, looks brand new!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002JCW2CG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5WJGPKJVPVD68CEB37KW
For future reference (if you're in the USA at least), use Superlube. It's great at most temperatures and is food grade (don't go actively eating the stuff though).
Sand it down and use this if you want a cheap fix.
Dupli-Color AFM0360 Dark Shadow Gray Ford Exact-Match Scratch Fix All-in-1 Touch-Up Paint - 0.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE66OK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xMmN4M8AOoyqk
This stuff is great, very hard and a great clear aswell BUT you have to wear a mask or be outside where it's well ventilated. After you coat it (2-3 layers) let it dry for 24-48 hours and then wet sand it with 2000 grit to 3000 grit for a good shine. You could also pick up some wipe on polishfor a truly glossy look.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_506YQX9B9P50BGR0462D
I think logically it will be susceptible to UV damage on interior of the lense. Headlights that still have a yellowish hue to them, even after restoration, are damaged on the inside. I don't see this too often so you should be fine. When the initial clear coat is gone. You have nothing left. You wont necessarily damage it more. But the yellowish fog will slowly introduce itself until you use a clearcoat.
Restore your headlights. Then use a clear coat after.
Ratchets and Wretches did a 3 year test and the 2K Clear Coat has the best result.
Oh man I didn't know that came in pen form. I came here to recommend Birchwood Casey's aluminum black restorer but the pen version looks super convenient.
$15.93 via Amazon Prime - Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease (Thanks, u/tadfisher)
It's a common topic, but many simply have not come across it. This Shin-etsu is what Japanese OEMs use to keep rubber weather stripping like new. It can rejuvenate stuff you though needed replaced, everyone should have a tube of it and treat yearly to bi-yearly, on any vehicle.
Use gloves, apply a very thin layer, allow to sit for at least an hour. Wipe off excess with moist cloth towel.
Posting this because Tom was recommending the cheap generic stuff.