A generator inlet box like this is the way. You just make or buy a twist-lock cord to go from the generator to the inlet box. The inlet connector is then wired to your electrical panel, which can be a very simple one for a small cabin. When you add solar later, you wire the generator inlet to your inverter/charger, and then wire the inverter to your electrical panel.
If you have a 120 volt circuit for your boiler, and would like to have just a transfer switch for the boiler only, there are a couple products on the market which provide a 5-15 inlet plug and transfer switch. The transfer switch would be wired in either adjacent to your panel or adjacent to the boiler. During an outage, run an extension cord from the boiler to the generator. Boilers typically don't take much power to run the controls and a circulator.
Will mount on a 4-in square 2-1/8 deep box, with all of the other fixings. Will need some slack in the line, or a new piece of wire to run from here to the next box to have enough wire to make the connections.
Usually the shore power AC 120 volts will go to a "transfer switch". The transfer switch allows you to automatically switch between plug in shore power and another source of 120 volts AC. The other source is commonly from a generator or an inverter (An inverter converts 12 volts DC to 120 volts AC).
When the power source leaves the transfer switch it will usually go to a breaker or breakers (50 amp service) in your circuit breaker box that has individual breakers for various components, all 120 volt AC. These could be outlets, Air conditioner, etc.
A "charge controller" usually refers to a solar power device that converts power from the solar panels into charging current for the batteries. The "charge controller" might also refer to a battery charger that will charge your batteries when you are on shore power. AC applications can only be run from a 120 volt AC source like an inverter, generator, or shore power. Batteries can power the inverter but batteries cannot run 120 volt AC devices.
Hope this clears things up a bit.
They make a single transfer switch for $100 that will work for the furnace. Or some furnaces have a plug into a dedicated outlet so you just plug it directly into the generator. Here is the transfer switch I have: Reliance Controls TF151W Easy/Tran Transfer Switch for Generators, Small, Gray https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000HRWG8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CGW1AGM88AQN8S90FVRF
You need some version of an ATS.
There's a zillion of them. Here's a place to startrandom automatic transfer switch off Amazon
You need to pick the generator based on peak current usage. I figured the peak current by combining starting current draw for a 1/2 hp well motor, oil boiler blower motor and refrigerator. I also run the internet router and a couple of outlets (kitchen / living room) off of it for a few lights and occasional use of a microwave. A 4400 Watt generator (the rating they put on is typically peak watts, not average watts) was sufficient in my case. I also recommend installing a transfer switch rather than running cords from the generator to the appliances. I used a reliance controls transfer switch I highly recommend that you call an electrician to do it rather than trying to fiddle with the mains yourself. As to the model of the generator, I just have a cheap Chinese model that I bought for 300$ off Amazon. It is a basic model but it has worked without issues for the last 8 years when ever I needed it.
You should be fine. Just be sure to turn off all breakers that you don’t need. The interlock I plan on installing soon includes wire that I can fasten directly to my intended breaker.
It will kill you! The slightest mistake handling that venomous live cable and your dead!
The only safe way to power these items is to properly install an isolating generator adapter.
Like the one shown in the link below:
u/ChimaeraB,
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A
That resolves all of the guesswork and improvising. Use a 2-1/8" deep 4" square box.
I installed the Reliance "through the wall" kit $110, and have extension cords ready! Figure I can power the refrigerator, microwave, furnace, tv/dvd, lights, etc. Just have to worry about tripping over cords! Will need some red cones in the house. https://smile.amazon.com/Reliance-Control-Corporation-WKPBN30-EMW3790037/dp/B0743BQDT4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34RLW9QB1CBW5&keywords=reliance+through+the+wall+generator+kit&qid=1670884968&sprefix=reliance+through%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-3
You can run the stove on a battery - its basically just fans and an auger, but you wont be able to run a starter for long so if you have an auto/thermostat mode that autostarts the fire for you - run it in manual mode.
I have lost power while my stove is running. The fire goes out quickly and it may smoke if it loses draw.
I had looked at a battery - in the end i added a transfer box to my house with a generator i wheel around to my house from the garage when we lose power. The transfer is not automatic. I have to be home, flip switches, connect the generator amd start it.
It runs my well pump (240) and my fridge, boiler, lights, tv, internet, (the isp will come out and stick a generator on their line which seems to then give the internet power to work).
Only thing it does not run is the central AC.
This is what i used. Might seem overkill. But it allows me to safely run my generator and not hurt any linemen.
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Corporation-31410CRK-10-circuit-Generators/dp/B000HS2L3O/
It does not cover all my circuits. So i leave the hall light switch on. When the hall light turns back on - i know power is restored to my house.
I was trying to do something that didn't require running extension cords but I guess it's not a good idea. How do you feel about this switch? https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2CIEPA2EXSZUW&keywords=transfer+switch&qid=1665352190&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI2LjI0IiwicXNhIjoiNS44NiIsInFzcCI6IjUuMDQifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=transfer...
I think what you are looking for is a generator transfer switch. You (or I recommend an electrician) would wire this up next to the RV circuit breaker and select the circuits you want to be able to toggle between grid power (when connected via the outdoor outlet), or your EcoFlow (when off grid) which plugs into the transfer switch.
Single Circuit:
https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-TF151W-Transfer-Generators/dp/B000HRWG8U/ref=pd\_lpo\_2?pd\_rd\_i=B000HRWG8U&psc=1
4 Circuit:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/NATURE-S-GENERATOR-15-Amp-120V-4-Circuit-Indoor-Non-Automatic-Power-Transfer-Switch-Kit-HKNGPTK/307780505?g\_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D28I-028\_037\_OUTDR\_PW\_ACC-...
Correct, here's an example - https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-Corporation-31406CRK-Generators/dp/B000BQN4T2 And yes, always have an electrician check this and all other circuits that are greater than standard 110v in a new house. This requires a generator that has the option of a 22v output, and a cable like the one shown (and there are different versions of these cables so you may need a custom one to match your generator and the box)
You can use a transfer switch. There is a single circuit, UL approved solution on Amazon if you want to power a 15/20A branch circuit :
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A
I didn't need all the bells and whistles so I settled on the Emporia. I paid $399 at the time on Amazon. I had an electrician install a 60 amp breaker and then hard-wire the charger. I get a 48 amp charge. He said the 50 amp breaker could only get me 40 amps. I'm charging at 11.5kW. All this and a 24 ft. cord. Works better than I imagined. (Star, Ioninq 5 SEL, RWD)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BP1GM76?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I’ve done a lot of research on this in anticipation of my vehicle’s delivery.
The Emporia Level 2 UL-certified charger is the way to go, in my opinion. It supports both the 40A plug and 48A hardwired options (you must hardwire to get the full 11.5 KWh speed), plus it has WiFi built-in. So for now, take advantage of Chevy’s free outlet installation, and know you still have the hardware for a hardwired option in the future. Surprisingly, it’s one of the cheapest options at the moment ($449.00 MSRP).
Many thanks!
I installed an "EZ Generator Switch" so you can plug an extension cord in that way.
While doing that would technically work it is not up to code.
Consider purchasing a EZ Generator switch and having it installed. You end up with the same setup but now if your house burns down you won't have your insurance company trying to deny your claim.
If you're looking for a cheap EVSE, I recommend OpenEVSE. You can get a kit for $300 and assemble it yourself and it has many premium features. I purchased this after buying 2 very expensive EVSEs that both broke after only about a year. These are 100% repairable.
You can also get the Emporia EVSE for $440.
Wow you are seriously incredibly gifted to be able to explain this in a simple way that a person seriously challenged in these topics (like myself) can understand! Thank you. I have a few following questions if you don’t mind.
Just curious, but why does the speed decrease so much when charging from 80-100%?
Is data shown in that graph you posted something that usually only comes out publicly after a cars are delivered and a consumer does the test? Or is it common practice that Cadillac (and other car brands) release this information before?
I do drive around ~40-50 miles a day. I’m considering a Level 2 charger like this one for whichever EV I get. Good idea? Also you mentioned outdoors, these would work fine in a garage too, yes?
Emporia EV Charger I got this one a few months back and really like it. Great value, high amperage, and the app is very informative.
The Tesla one is nice, but I think people should check out the Emporia one as well. It's always $399, does up to 48A like the Tesla, great reviews, good warranty, 24-ft cable, and comes ready for NEMA 14-50 or hardwire.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BP1GM76/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_6RJS6RTVHX2QV2X0K7TZ
I follow this guy and he now has 3 of the Emporia chargers https://youtube.com/c/WillProwse It cost $399 at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Emporia-Charger-Electric-Hardwired-Charging/dp/B09BP1GM76/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=O60WHDM2CFVO&keywords=emporia&qid=1650806664&sprefix=empo%2Caps%2C170&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2MZON57HPVTEJ&spLa...
The app runs smoothly and you can enter your eletric rate to see how much in $ you have been charging. ive had it for 2 weeks now and I like the Emporia charger a lot and definitely recommend it.
I got the EMPORIA ENERGY Smart Level 2 EV Charger | Up to 48 Amp | WiFi Enabled Electric Vehicle Charger | NEMA 14-50 or Hardwired | Indoor/Outdoor Charging Station | 24-Ft Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BP1GM76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X4PDT1HCW0CDSY48RBEQ
Great charger…high quality thick cable with the “smart” features like scheduled charging, useage stats, and calculated costs based on energy provider
I got the EMPORIA ENERGY Smart Level 2 EV Charger | Up to 48 Amp | WiFi Enabled Electric Vehicle Charger | NEMA 14-50 or Hardwired | Indoor/Outdoor Charging Station | 24-Ft Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BP1GM76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X4PDT1HCW0CDSY48RBEQ
Great charger…high quality thick cable with the “smart” features like scheduled charging, useage stats, and calculated costs based on energy provider