It's a NEMA 10-50 plug. As long as it's wired to a 250 and not a 125V breaker you're good. Unfortunately, Tesla doesn't make an adapter for that, so you can either get a converter from Amazon or hire an electrician to replace it with a 14-50 or 6-50. (And obviously have it checked to be safe.)

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-EV1050T-Adapter-compatible-Vehicles/dp/B00STD9SJY

(It may be cheaper to get a 6-50 plug and have your electrician change it out while he's at it.)

If you have a 120 volt circuit for your boiler, and would like to have just a transfer switch for the boiler only, there are a couple products on the market which provide a 5-15 inlet plug and transfer switch. The transfer switch would be wired in either adjacent to your panel or adjacent to the boiler. During an outage, run an extension cord from the boiler to the generator. Boilers typically don't take much power to run the controls and a circulator.

Will mount on a 4-in square 2-1/8 deep box, with all of the other fixings. Will need some slack in the line, or a new piece of wire to run from here to the next box to have enough wire to make the connections.

EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL

Yeah good call. Just took a look again and I was misremembering.

It’s a Reliance CS6375 (Reliance Controls PB50 50-Amp (CS6375) NEMA 3R Power Inlet Box,Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HRWGBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2VYJS98FR2E287X5ASQX)

Picture of actual: https://imgur.com/gallery/wVPa6OM

Only three prongs, not four like I thought. But still 50amps.

Does this mean I can only do 120v? The generator breaker is in the right side of the panel but the heat pump is on the left. Not sure if this matters with 120v…

Usually the shore power AC 120 volts will go to a "transfer switch". The transfer switch allows you to automatically switch between plug in shore power and another source of 120 volts AC. The other source is commonly from a generator or an inverter (An inverter converts 12 volts DC to 120 volts AC).

When the power source leaves the transfer switch it will usually go to a breaker or breakers (50 amp service) in your circuit breaker box that has individual breakers for various components, all 120 volt AC. These could be outlets, Air conditioner, etc.

A "charge controller" usually refers to a solar power device that converts power from the solar panels into charging current for the batteries. The "charge controller" might also refer to a battery charger that will charge your batteries when you are on shore power. AC applications can only be run from a 120 volt AC source like an inverter, generator, or shore power. Batteries can power the inverter but batteries cannot run 120 volt AC devices.

Hope this clears things up a bit.

I will do some research on an RO for my setup. It would be nice to autofill my humidifier and my water levels from a constant supply of 0ppm water.

Pair that with this BlueLab dosing kit and walk away.

Thanks for the tips all!

Ok, I thought it might be. So I should be good with this 10-50 -> 14-50 adapter. Conntek EV1050T NEMA 10-50P to NEMA 14-50R (Tesla Style) Adapter Cord compatible with Tesla Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD9SJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QYR3FJH19756HTE3QFD6

You can use it! We RV with our Tesla. The coach uses the 14-50 and I have this adapter to plug our 14-50 UMC plug into. I don’t get 14-50 charge rate but it works fine.

You got it. Two hots and ground.

They also make plug adapters, commonly used for RVs and such, if that makes anything easier.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD9SJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_J9CDQ0DRNYJERCQDR5WE

You need some version of an ATS.

There's a zillion of them. Here's a place to startrandom automatic transfer switch off Amazon

You should be fine. Just be sure to turn off all breakers that you don’t need. The interlock I plan on installing soon includes wire that I can fasten directly to my intended breaker.

Interlock

It will kill you! The slightest mistake handling that venomous live cable and your dead!

The only safe way to power these items is to properly install an isolating generator adapter.

Like the one shown in the link below:

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A/ref=asc_df_B00FADDE0A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064505516&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11577765442260040805&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&a...

u/ChimaeraB,

This is exactly what you need:

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A

That resolves all of the guesswork and improvising. Use a 2-1/8" deep 4" square box.

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=38WPC6DNSPU8M&keywords=ez+switch&qid=1671399100&sprefix=ez+switch%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-3

Ez-switch ^

A transfer switch would be required;

I installed the Reliance "through the wall" kit $110, and have extension cords ready! Figure I can power the refrigerator, microwave, furnace, tv/dvd, lights, etc. Just have to worry about tripping over cords! Will need some red cones in the house. https://smile.amazon.com/Reliance-Control-Corporation-WKPBN30-EMW3790037/dp/B0743BQDT4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34RLW9QB1CBW5&keywords=reliance+through+the+wall+generator+kit&qid=1670884968&sprefix=reliance+through%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Control-Corporation-WKPBN30-EMW3790037/dp/B0743BQDT4/ref=asc_df_B0743BQDT4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312134265253&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16672804358692338043&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...

This BluLab Device allows to add either pH up or down but not both if you pH passes a certain threshold that is set by the user

I looked through my photos from last year, the outlet is actually a 10-50. So going with this higher priced one. Thanks for your feedback thus far.

You can run the stove on a battery - its basically just fans and an auger, but you wont be able to run a starter for long so if you have an auto/thermostat mode that autostarts the fire for you - run it in manual mode.

I have lost power while my stove is running. The fire goes out quickly and it may smoke if it loses draw.

I had looked at a battery - in the end i added a transfer box to my house with a generator i wheel around to my house from the garage when we lose power. The transfer is not automatic. I have to be home, flip switches, connect the generator amd start it.

It runs my well pump (240) and my fridge, boiler, lights, tv, internet, (the isp will come out and stick a generator on their line which seems to then give the internet power to work).

Only thing it does not run is the central AC.

This is what i used. Might seem overkill. But it allows me to safely run my generator and not hurt any linemen.

https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Corporation-31410CRK-10-circuit-Generators/dp/B000HS2L3O/

It does not cover all my circuits. So i leave the hall light switch on. When the hall light turns back on - i know power is restored to my house.

I was trying to do something that didn't require running extension cords but I guess it's not a good idea. How do you feel about this switch? https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2CIEPA2EXSZUW&keywords=transfer+switch&qid=1665352190&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI2LjI0IiwicXNhIjoiNS44NiIsInFzcCI6IjUuMDQifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=transfer...

You can use a transfer switch. There is a single circuit, UL approved solution on Amazon if you want to power a 15/20A branch circuit :

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A

I didn't need all the bells and whistles so I settled on the Emporia. I paid $399 at the time on Amazon. I had an electrician install a 60 amp breaker and then hard-wire the charger. I get a 48 amp charge. He said the 50 amp breaker could only get me 40 amps. I'm charging at 11.5kW. All this and a 24 ft. cord. Works better than I imagined. (Star, Ioninq 5 SEL, RWD)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BP1GM76?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details

I’ve done a lot of research on this in anticipation of my vehicle’s delivery.

The Emporia Level 2 UL-certified charger is the way to go, in my opinion. It supports both the 40A plug and 48A hardwired options (you must hardwire to get the full 11.5 KWh speed), plus it has WiFi built-in. So for now, take advantage of Chevy’s free outlet installation, and know you still have the hardware for a hardwired option in the future. Surprisingly, it’s one of the cheapest options at the moment ($449.00 MSRP).

Emporia EV Charger (Level 2)

That is a 10-50R. You need something like: https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-EV1050T-Adapter-compatible-Vehicles/dp/B00STD9SJY

1. So you confirm the Siemens with built-in breakers serving as a transfer switch will work (I hope there is no stupid question - trust but verify LOL)? Of course it is made in Canada, thus CSA approved.
2. As for the one with a watt meter, this one has C-UL 1008 listed, would it be acceptable to Code: https://www.amazon.ca/Reliance-31410CRK-10-Circuit-Generator-Generators/dp/B000HS2L3O
3. Can you kindly suggest a make/model add-on watt meter for use with the Siemens EQG630D or EQG1020D?

Many thanks!

Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XNSXWM4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

​

Definitely recommended.

I installed an "EZ Generator Switch" so you can plug an extension cord in that way.

While doing that would technically work it is not up to code.

Consider purchasing a EZ Generator switch and having it installed. You end up with the same setup but now if your house burns down you won't have your insurance company trying to deny your claim.

If you're looking for a cheap EVSE, I recommend OpenEVSE. You can get a kit for $300 and assemble it yourself and it has many premium features. I purchased this after buying 2 very expensive EVSEs that both broke after only about a year. These are 100% repairable.

You can also get the Emporia EVSE for $440.

Wow you are seriously incredibly gifted to be able to explain this in a simple way that a person seriously challenged in these topics (like myself) can understand! Thank you. I have a few following questions if you don’t mind.

1. Just curious, but why does the speed decrease so much when charging from 80-100%?

2. Is data shown in that graph you posted something that usually only comes out publicly after a cars are delivered and a consumer does the test? Or is it common practice that Cadillac (and other car brands) release this information before?

3. I do drive around ~40-50 miles a day. I’m considering a Level 2 charger like this one for whichever EV I get. Good idea? Also you mentioned outdoors, these would work fine in a garage too, yes?