Congrats on the new computers. You might want to air blower to clean your and your brother's computers every so often, especially since you have a pet. Having dust and pet fur in a computers can slow it down. I would recommend this. Other computer enthusiasts might know of better computer cleaners.
Thanks for all the great art!
Build the fence. If the parents say anything tell them you plan to start doing nude yoga and expanding your show dogs to include Pit Bulls and that you hope they'll remind their children to ask before coming over.
Tell the neighbors you've been having a critter problem in both the front and back yards and are thinking of installing one of these sprinkler deterrent systems, and again, their kids should not come over unannounced.
And of course, install a few cameras to monitor your property and fancy new sprinklers.
Set up motion detecting sprinklers. Something like this
(Most) cats hate water. He/She will quickly be trained to avoid going in your yard, and it will be much cheaper than any lawyer situation will ever be.
Cave crickets feast on... Each other. Yikes. So rather than pay the $ for a fly sticky, I line up a few strips of duct tape, sticky side up, and stick one of their deceased brothers smack in the middle. As the cannibal bastards approach their meal, they get stuck. Caught about 30 of them like that over the summer.
I also hunt them with a bug-a-salt rifle. It's fun as hell to hunt a rogue actor in your basement. It takes two or three shots to finish the job but it works.
Hot paprika usually works really well. You could also sprinkle cayenne pepper powder all over it. Or just set a motion activated sprinkler out
Actually, that's a perfect idea, get this, and keep vacuum cleaner nearby.
Here it is in action
This is a good solution [link]
You can get a motion activated sprinkler that shoots a very intense stream of water; they are used to scare away deer, but it might be a good lawn tantrum deterrent.
Something like this: Datavac ED500
When I lived on a corner lot, I was tempted to buy an automatic targetted sprinkler for deer, to keep people from walking across my lawn. [link]
I never did, but I wanted to.
Amazon Link. Not trying to shill the product or anything, but it's import to keep our build's clean and this is a necessary tool.
You've got to build it right to keep them out of it. Deep sharp sides with lots of cover. I have a optimistic great blue heron that visits daily. He's not getting much. The Kingfishers get some of the babies.
The of course you can setup one of these. link
The problem isn't thermal paste, it's that people don't regularly maintain their devices and/or don't place their consoles somewhere with proper ventilation. My PS4 is 4 years old and runs dead silent because after one year (once it was out of warranty), I routinely (every 4-6 months) open my PS4 and dust out the inside with my electric duster ([link]). I blast the fan, power supply, all the vents, and loosen any hardened dust with a soft paintbrush.
My PS4 runs quiet no matter what I'm playing. Same applies for my PS3, which is going to be 9 years old this year and still runs cool.
I think r/KitchenConfidential might appreciate that more.
Aside from appropriate methods of pest control, have you ever heard of the Salt Gun?
Wow, your roommate sucks. Thank you for being willing to help this poor snake!
You can get a cheap plastic tub at Target (or similar) and use a couple bungee cords to reinforce the lid locks. The 27.5 gal Sterilite bin is $15 and can support a 4 foot snake (bulls would prefer a bit more space, but this will meet its needs in a pinch). If you can find a clear Christmas tree storage tub, that would work even better size-wise, but they're hard to come by this time of year.
Yes, they do need a hot spot at all times of the year. She'll be okay if you need some time to gather supplies, just hold off on feeding her. If you do get a plastic tub, you'll need to use a heat pad (can buy from any pet store, they're not expensive) and thermostat (all heating elements can reach dangerous temperatures if left unregulated). You want a hot spot of high 80s. Throw that heat rock into the garbage right now, they are dangerous and ineffective.
Ambient humidity is usually just fine unless your area is super dry. You can use a spray bottle to bump it up, though. If you use a substrate like coco husk, cypress mulch, or a bark blend, that will help retain moisture if you're having trouble.
Reptile-specific rescues are few and far between, but they do exist. You would probably have better luck posting on a FB group - look for some combination of "[your area] + reptile/snake" and you will likely find something! Sometimes people have even successfully rehomed snakes through posts on this sub.
Mosquito Bits. Sprinkle them on the top of the soil or add them to the water you use to water your plants. By far the easiest way to deal with fungus gnats and a 30z container could last for years.
Lucky for you, it's already a thing. I had something similar to this to keep the neighborhood feral cats from shitting in my garden. Motion Activated Sprinkler
Honestly this is the best solution I've found:
Price is usually around $55 on Amazon. That adds up to a few cases of compressed air, but you'll never have to use those cans again. Also worth mentioning it's super powerful (it blows air, does not work like a vacuum.)
Just my 2 cents, it's worth it IMO.
I bought this because it doesn't trap moisture inside like a real air compressor does in the tank / hose (especially in the more humid states.) I learned that lesson the hard way while using my garage air compressor on a custom PC. Fried the board.
I looked into Amazon a little bit, here is a well-reviewed motion activated water jet deterrent. Looks like it has a powerful spray and can be angled upwards to human-height. Would use less water than a moat. I’m getting giddy thinking about the revenge options.
Orbit 62100 Yard Enforcer Motion Activated Sprinkler with Day and Night Detection Modes [link]
Also, as a last resort...maybe a low-voltage electrified wire surrounding the trees? With proper warning signage, it might be an option considering it’s on your property and not a fence per se. 😈 Farmers use them to keep in livestock and protect vegetable gardens from rabbits.
There are PC blowers around $50-75 on Amazon that do a great job. Metro Datavac ED500 is the one I've used for 3 years now. Not a single issue. Just clean out the filter in the bottom and re-install after x-amount of time. Have not had to buy a new filter.
Keep from damaging fans by using a chopstick or bamboo skewer. You place it inside between the fan blade and frame. It keeps you from over-spinning a fan and damaging it.
It can be hard to tell when theyre dehydrated, or just being wrinkly boys. I'd like to hear someone else opinion on it, but she does look dehydrated to my uneducated eye.
The temps are a tad on the high side, you want to stick to 72-75f as much as possible, although as long as its not getting over 80f it's probably not an issue. Are you using a thermostat to control the heater? With any heating device for reptiles, you absolutely *need to have them hooked up to thermostats like this to ensure your not overheating or burning your animals.
Also, just a word of advice, you really should ditch the red heat lamp.
Red (and to some extent the blue/purple) "nighttime" heat lamps are actually pretty harmful to reptiles. In a nutshell, they can still absolutely see the light as light, so it disturbs their day/night cycle. They need absolute darkness at night. Their eyes also wont react to red light properly, giving it the possibility of burning their eyes out.
You should switch it to a ceramic heat emitter, or deep heat projector. Both of which emit zero light, which is necessary for all reptiles at night.
Used one of these this past summer to train the neighbors cat to move along.
Orbit 62100 Yard Enforcer Motion-Activated Sprinkler with Day & Night Detection Modes,Black [link]
Immediately: CHE for heat ($10), thermostat to control heat ($20), digital thermometer/hydrometer ($10).
Soon: larger water dish, more hides, fresh substrate.
Use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for heat. Found cheaper on amazon than at a pet store. Doesn't emit light, probably the best source of heat and provides a better ambient temp than a UTH can. UTH's seem to only work well if the room your snake in is already at like 75 degrees.
All heat sources should be tied to a thermostat -- this regulates the heat so you don't fry/overheat your snake. Try this for $18.
Get a digital thermometer + hydrometer; digital are more accurate and you want to stay away from anything with an adhesive (most analogs have this). Try this for $10.
Get a water dish big enough for that snake to soak in. Search the kitchen section of a store -- possibly cheaper than a $20 dog bowl.
Cardboard hides are fine; they do the job. Give snake another on the other end of the cage. Toss them if they become soiled or mold. Poptart boxes do the trick at my house.
If you want to replace that substrate, aspen works fine. If you don't have the cash for that, paper towels also work.
I bought this for house flies, but it works just as well on lantern flies.
Can I suggest a cheap $65-80 LED light from Amazon? "Blurple" lights aren't the best lights you can get but imo when you are on a budget they are great.
180W for $80 is pretty good [link]
People have grown great plants with the brand Viparspectra. MarsHydro is also well known and you get get a similar light from them for $65
Wouldn't the Yard Defender work better? Orbit Yard Defender We use it to keep raccoons out of our yard. Works Great!
It would be catnope!
This works very well to keep animals out if your yard. Just can't use it in freezing weather. [link]
Putting mothballs, coyote urine and citrus around the outside of your house have been used to varying effectiveness.
Keep your heat mat on a thermostat! Check Amazon for the Hydrofarm Jumpstart. Do this ASAP, before anything else. Snakes don't feel pain the same way we do, and they have been known, commonly, to literally cook on an unregulated heat mat. Jumpstart
Make sure you have lots of clutter in that tank, and at least two hides which would be relatively snug fits. It is a very large tank for a young BP. Use black/dark paper to cover the back and sides of the tank. BPs like to feel safe, and that will help especially since the tank is so large.
Moving around at night is normal. They are nocturnal creatures. Being nocturnal, you should look into switching the lamp to a ceramic heat emitter (think light bulb, but without the light, only heat). Artificial light is unnecessary for them.
Don't handle them for 36-48 hours after feeding. You don't want to stress them and cause them to regurgitate.
Try to keep temps around 82, even at night, and no higher than 88 or so during the day
Should have just spent a few extra dollars on a good power inverter on amazon, $10 more but will probably not burst into flames on the interstate at 88 mph. I mean some of the stuff at HF is great and cheap stuff, but I would not trust air compressors or power inverters from HF.
Amazon has better customer support, buy from them. 2 day prime shipping too
A hard freeze would help. But seriously..
I somehow have got the problem under control by a professional service but I also supplement it with this:
Summit Responsible Solutions Mosquito Bits - Quick Kill, 30 Ounce [link]
Idk how well it works but anytime it rains I go around like a mad man pouring that in every puddle. Mosquitos love me and this is the first summer/fall I haven’t bathed in bug spray.
There are very few mosquitoes in Seattle. We don't even have screens, like most of our neighbors. If you have a lot of them you might have a source on your property or near it -- standing water where they breed. We have a sump pit in an outdoor stairway that I regularly add "Mosquito Bits" to. Find the standing water near you and do the same!
No it won't really give belly heat, you need a heating pad for a ball generally, and they are literally not usable without a thermostat. I got one for $18 on Amazon and it works fine. This isn't exactly it but close:
I mean too much of a waste of electricity. If it’s too bright you just back it up.
Any blurples will do just go by reviews on amazon. I’ll sell you two mars hydros for $50 if you’re interested. I payed $100 each used one grow.
I had a terrible fungus gnat situation and putting Mosquito Bits on the soil before I watered eliminated them. Neem, hydrogen peroxide, and yellow sticky pads didn't work for me, but this did. It kills the larvae.
As neat as your method is, you should've just gone with something like this so you can leave the hose pressurized and you would get instant water spray.
This stuff works so well for fungus gnats. Just sprinkle some in your watering can before you water and viola!
Yeah so you fill this puppy to the brim with table salt. And it has sights on it and everything, it’s a really fun time just pumping and dumping into any kind of fly you come across. It’s really fun for spotted lanterns is what my brother-in-law tells me
Bug-A-Salt 2.0 from Skell, Yellow [link]
Thank you!! I use the VIPARSPECTRA 300W VIPARSPECTRA grow light from Amazon. This thing is extremely bright but since I don’t really have any outdoor space and my succulents seem to be very much enjoying it, I can’t really complain haha
You can get a thermostat like this to use with your heat lamp so that it stays just the right temperature all the time!
Time to get one of these and a locking gate latch: [link]
I know The reptile carpet isn’t the best for them and I’m working to get a bio build going as soon as I can, hopefully in the next couple months! I don’t want him getting his toes hurt on the carpet 🥺
I’ve got a CHE going almost 24/7, it keeps the air temps around 75 at the lowest (it averages 55-60 degrees indoors in my current situation so it’s the best I can do to combat that cold!)
I have a heat mat to supplement the CHE that’s controlled via this heat mat controller too, set to turn on at 88 and turn off at 91 degrees.
I recently learned they need a solid back wall to feel more secure so that’s the foam rock wall added in the back as of today!
I appreciate any points and tips!
Heat mats should always be used with a digital thermostat, with the probe right next to the mat (both under the enclosure). That way you will never get a runaway overheat situation.
Some people get a pretty small wattage mat so it just never gets very hot. But it's safer and better for the snake if all heat sources are (each) regulated by their own thermostat.
Here is my favorite:
Under 20 bucks and easy to set up.
Sure, i use the test drops, I don’t use any pH pens and I’ve never had a single issue. Although there’s nothing wrong with pH pens they’re just a little expensive. Here’s a link for the kit I use to test pH
General Hydroponics pH Control Kit for a Balanced Nutrient Solution [link]
I did have strong thoughts about using my leaf blower inside yesterday when it came time to clean the neglected area of my kitchen. Decided that it would be too disastrous to try. Could have potentially busted out the electric duster that is sitting in my closet.
I figured. Those are extremely inaccurate. Your best bet would be to either get a nice pH pen or some of the GH pH test drops.
You can get them with the pH up and down kit, like this, or separately:
I put these bits in a gallon of water, then use the water on the plants until the gnats are gone. It doesn’t work as well on the adult gnats, but stops new ones.
Sounds good, I would try switching to a coconut husk of some sort as it will hold the humidity way better (I prefer eco earth) and a thermostat regulates temperature (a thermometer measures it). So you plug your lamps/heat mats into the the thermostat and place the thermostat probe in your enclosure, and it will regulate the heat by turning the lights/mat/heat emitter, etc on and off to stay at a consistent temperature. Otherwise they could run too hot and injure your snake. Here is an affordable one many people use - [link]
Motion sensor sprinkler
You know your limits better than anyone else, but really, we're all here cheering you on. Once you get the tools you need for a snek, they're so easy to care for, and they are wonderful pets. My snake was out last night and both my roommates got to hold her for the first time. She also chose to perch her head on my roommates thumb for a straight 90 seconds and I basically died of how cute it was.
Just because corns are easy doesn't mean that you were born with the knowledge to care for them. A thermostat from amazon will regulate your temps for you and then you can rule out the temps being an issue. Feeding is probably the most stressful part, but with patience,that can be overcome too. All snakes can go long periods of time without eating, so a couple more weeks of trial and error won't make him any worse for wear. You can do it!
I don't recommend the ones with them built in. Do you have a glass tank? When I had glass tanks I used an appropriately sized Zoomed Reptitherm heat mat, and used this thermostat from amazon. it's cheap and does the job well enough. I still use that one for my quarantine enclosure and I've had no issue with it.
If you want to get the best thermostat you can, spyder Robotics makes really nice ones. I use a Herpstat 2 for my ball pythons and it's fantastic, very safe and reliable.
If I was really trying to go for the bare-minimum cost setup I'd have it in a closet and here's what I'd do:
The hardest decision would probably be lighting... I'd advise you either go the CFL route (look it up on growweedeasy.com) or a cheap LED light from Amazon. You can get a 180W draw light from Amazon for $66, and it's decent, not the best, but you can surely go from seedling to harvest with them. MarsHydro is a well-known and relatively reliable brand: [link]
The last thing you will really need is ventilation. To start you can just use some small-fan you may have laying around but later the odor will become an issue. You can make your own carbon filter for cheap, or you can buy one. I believe you can get a basic carbon filter/fan combo for around $50 online.
This one here is the one I use. However this specific model I ordered almost 2 years ago and it's even in my Amazon history for $29.99. However There are cheaper models as the current $70 price is a bit ridiculous, although it's an amazing duster.
Great! Yeah it looks smaller than it is haha. With the 55 make sure you have lots of plants and stuff to kind of make it not feel so open. As for bioactive I personally don’t but I know two people who have gotten kits/supplies from Josh’s Frogs.
Jumpstart thermostats work good on a budget, I really like this one from amazon [link]
To address your first question, rats and mice are different. If the breeder said she's eating ft (frozen thawed) hopper mice, then you shouldn't have any issues feeding her a small mouse. That is, if her set up is correct. Ball pythons don't ever really need to be eating mice to be honest. I know there are more differences between rats and mice than I'll get into here, but for one mice have higher fat than rats while rats are higher in protein and that's important for a growing ball python hatchling. She'll soon grow out of mice entirely so you should switch her to rats as soon as you can. But try to get her to eat what the breeder says she's been eating first.
Your comment about the temperature makes me concerned that you don't have a thermostat for your heating. You need to buy one immediately. This regulates the temperature of your heat mat. Otherwise (like you mentioned) it's going to get hot and stay hot. 103 is WAY too hot. You want to have her warm side at around 91. This amazon link is a very reliable brand of thermostat that a lot of people in the reptile community use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You should also get a temperature gun if you don't have one to accurately check the temperature regularly and make any necessary adjustments.
You may like the science of light post, also accessible via the sidebar.
Also, no, lumens will not always help you. More is typically better, but they're not what we use to help people find a grow light.
Firstly, i will assume that your sempervivums are definitely etiolating; let you tell you straight out that these are typically outdoor plants and that even under a grow light, unless it is strong, they will become leggy and flared out. If the grow light is good enough, they'll close back up and produce webs(if its an arachnodeium). However, lights these strong tend to be a bit more expensive.
I have been told that the Feit bulbs available via Amazon work well as grow lights. You'd need a gooseneck lamp or something else to hold them. I've never used said bulbs, so if you purchase them and find them lacking, please let me know so i can stop suggesting them. I use this, but you said you're looking for a supplemental light, not an exclusive light source(Note that this is more then enough for sempervivums and they're happy under it).
Some people use T5 or T8 fluorescent bulbs - if you decide to do this, purchase HO(High Output) bulbs, with a color temperature around 6500K. Typically, you want 3-4 bulbs, and they need to be fairly close. This is typically for a rack of multiple succulents. Lastly, try to avoid purchasing the $20 two/three armed grow lights on Amazon - they are typically VERY weak(not strong enough to prevent echeveria etiolation) and are prone to failure. I'm aware this probably doesn't answer all your questions, but i feel like this post is getting a bit long - if you need further help, feel free to reply and i or someone else can answer!
Incidentally, the blower Kyle uses in that video is amazing. I bought it as soon as I saw him use it. It's expensive, but so is compressed air if you use enough of it. I also highly recommend you use it outside. The last time I used it on a dusty computer it cleaned it in seconds - with a dust cloud to match.
Ok your PH are way high. I’d recommend a ph balancing kit. You want it between 5.5 and 6.5. I got a good one from general hydroponics. this kit it’s about what I paid but you may be able to save a dollar or two by looking around online a bit. I got mine on eBay.
I recommend mosquito bits! First learned about them over on /r/isopods. Safe for use with them (crustaceans) and tried them in my bioactive dubia cockroach and morio beetle tank--no problems! They're basically just corn granules coated with a bacteria strain (Bacillus thuringiensis israelensi) which kills the larval form of mosquitos and fungus gnats.
It seems to be most effective if you sprinkle some granules in water, let them soak a bit for the bacteria to become free-floating, then water all substrate with that until all larvae and adults and eggs have died. It seems to only kill in the larvae stage, so you do have to continue to dose for a bit, but it seemed pretty effective for me.
I've also had great luck with apple cider vinegar traps (literally just apple cider vinegar and a drop of dish soap--breaks surface tension better--in a container, they drown trying to get to it) if you can find a way to plop that in gecko-proofed. Some people put a rubber banded bit of cellophane with holes in it to catch more flies, might keep curious geckos out.
Get an inverter. They have ones that can plug into 12V outlets. Or, if you want to go a bit bigger, you can wire an inverter directly to the electrical in your vehicle. That’s not nearly as easy though.
I travel a lot for work, much of which is cross-country driving, and my inverter has saved me more than a few times.
Edit: Amazon link to what I’m talking about.
oh I can help!!!! this stuff right here is a miracle worker for fungus gnats and it's plant/animal safe.
Power Inverter seems to be what would work best for you. Plug it into the cigarette lighter in your car and it can be used as normal plug. Here is the one that I own and am happy with. Bestek 300W Power Inverter.
Okay. You don’t need any lights, I was just making sure you didn’t have any. Temp on the warm side should stay around 90 F. If you don’t have a thermostat for your uth, you need to get one. I have this one: ([link]). You should also get a temp gun.
As far as hides go, you should have at least 3, one hot, one cool, and a moist hide. Even if they aren’t shedding, it’s good to keep one out at all times. Make sure he isn’t on loose substrate, I prefer tile or paper towel. And you should keep a pure calcium supplement out at all times. Just put some in a milk cap.
Here is my set up: [link]
It’s very plain and I’m actually going to be buying some more stuff to put in soon, but it can give you an idea of the basic necessities.
Actually there is! They’re called heat pad thermometer stats, here’s one
I can't speak for that particular model, but I use these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM They're cheap and reliable. The Jumpstart ones are good too but cost a smidge more. It's normal for the thermostat to turn on and off. The turning on and off is how it maintains the temperature. Heat mats don't have much of an effect on the ambient temperatures. If you need to get the ambient temp up, you'll need to either raise the temp of the actual room or put some heating lamps in.
There's that bird netting stuff, but it gets tangled in everything. The only good method I know of is an animatronic predator that moves and makes noise. Possibly those motion-detector garden sprayers.
I need to add these to my collection. I already have an A-Salt gun to take out the bugs around the house. Now I just need this to plant flowers everywhere… Lolz.
You are most likely smelling the bitterant additive, which can leave a residue on objects. Eventually it should clear.
If this is really abhorrent, I would switch to a datavac duster. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Metro-DataVac-500-Watt-0-75-HP-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
One exists with ESD safe plastics as well.
Just buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Metro-DataVac-500-Watt-0-75-HP-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Then it doesn't matter anymore. Unlimited compressed air
> How do you keep algae and nasty growth down in it?
Pond plants. Specifically, water hyacinth, parrot feather, and water lettuce. If you don't want to have fish in there, use some of this: [link]
But fish, even feeder goldfish - you can get 50 for about 10 bucks - are worth having. I water all the greenhouse plants with pond water, which gives a very light fertilizer boost, and it's completely organic.
Just this small one. I wanted to do a tiny grow with some extra space in the apt but it’s getting bigger than expected! VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 300W... [link]
Oh how weird! If you look at the back label image here there's a section on gnats and tea!
Get some ph strips, i believe lemons require a slightly acidic soil but don’t quote me on that. general hydroponics PH control kit can help.
lemon tree soil requirements
Yes, I use the Mosquito Bits (which have Bacillus thuringiensis) and have had great success! I put about ~3 tablespoons of them in a gallon of water to steep for 24 hours. Then, I remove the bits and you end up with a Mosquito Bit "tea" which I use to water all of my plants as normal. I would say after about 2 weeks, I have almost no fungus gnats anymore. I will keep doing it as a preventative measure!
I would recommend switching to a direct heat source like a ceramic heat lamp with a temperature reader (see below suggestion). Tower heaters are best not left unattended for long periods of time since they're a fire hazard (heat lamps are too, but run less risk). Tower heaters in my experience tend to also malfunction or stop working after a few years depending on brand since they want you to have to buy a new one.
Recommended temperature control to plug a ceramic heat lamp into: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=TEMPERATURE+CONTROL+HEDGEHOG+CAGE&qid=1620257134&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNDBDMUROWVhHNVg3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDA2Mzc5RTRaMkNMSVFORjNIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4ODY2MTQxMTQ4V0M5T1dCSVE5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Yeah! This is the one I have :) Good luck with your hedgie!
Try watering with mosquito bits it kills the larvae. Just soak the bits for 24 hours water and make sure to drench the top layer completely and repeat every week or so. You can even throw some of the bits into the pot. These won’t hurt your dogs 🙂
Motion-activated sprinkler example
We have this one to keep the rabbits out of our flowers. It works at night too.
This will get ya by.
BESTEK 300W Power Inverter DC 12V to 110V AC Car Inverter with 4.2A Dual USB Car Adapter [link]
I personally prefer to hard line to the battery but this will do what you want.
Just make sure no matter what option you go with, have it hooked up to a thermostat like this one so you won't risk overheating/burning your little guy
I use this. https://www.amazon.com/Metro-DataVac-500-Watt-0-75-HP-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
I have it for more than a year now. I clear all electronics and and convectors and ventilation fans at home with it. Quite handy and powerful.
This is the one I got of Amazon 3 or 4 yrs ago. Think I paid 15 at the time. Price went up a little. Never had any need for the pH UP part of it. Don't break the bank on anything pH related. These buffers literally cost companies pennies to make.
If you can get a cheaper aquarium version. Go for it.
You said "temperature controlled" in the title, but then you mention checking the temperature every day... I get wanting to look, I remove the velcroed on heating mat on mine every day to peek at the progress too, but if you're actually worried that it's not working right, here's how I control mine:
I just put the suction cup w/ the temperature probe on the side of the jar and I can read the temperature from the hanging display. Not sure if something like that might help if you're uncertain of how it's maintaining itself.
6.5 is about my upper limit on pH. I have an air disc and reservoir fed DWC system in place. One thing I do is check my pH in the buckets daily (or 2-3 times a day), and I have noticed that the pH tends to go up over time. Different chemicals get absorbed at different rates based on the pH. I take mine down to about 5.5, 5.6, then leave it. I let it climb back up to 6.5 (2-3 days), then take it back down to 5.5. This helps ensure absorption of the full spread of nutes. I use these chemicals to adjust the pH.
I got this one like 7+ years ago, still going strong. [link]
It's more expensive than some. There's other cheaper ones that are basically the same thing.
I always get a second opinion from a solution sample and the pH test drops. Like you, I often second guess the meter.
These are the drops that came with the pH Up/Down solutions:
I've used them for my snake in the past, tried using my seedling pad but it will get too hot so you need a thermostat. I plan to build a controller with an arduino and a smart plug but might just get one of those thermostats instead,, probably this one
68 is too cold; having a thermostat hooked up to your heating pad would help with that! (shouldn't go below 77).
heat wise it shouldn't go above 84/85; maybe a fan like another user suggested??
I got this one off of Amazon a few years back. Haven't had any issues. I think I paid $15 at the time. It works well for testing water going in and drainage coming out.
I see a couple comments above on pH. When I first started I had a pH problem and I ordered a digital pH checker which really let me down. Calibrating it and the accuracy of it was off. I ordered the droplet and pH up and down kit and it worked great. I provided you with a link off Amazon if you’re interested. General Hydroponics HGC722080 pH... [link]
BN-LINK Digital Heat Mat... [link] this is the thermostat i use its always worked very well, yes i spray my humid hide once a day with a spray bottle
Hot side should be high 80's. Cold side works fine at low to mid 70's.
All heat sources need to be on a thermostat or you will constantly fight it to keep it from getting too hot or not hot enough. Here is my favorite:
A 50 gallon enclosure is fine for even a young noodle, provide there is lots of clutter and plants (fake is just fine) and at least 2 hides. Little snakes like little hides.
If there is no thermostat, the heat lamp will want to get too hot if the house is warm, and too cold if the house is cold. A thermostat is safer and far easier for the keeper. It makes it a "set it and forget it" deal. This is my favorite since it's easy, inexpensive and very effective:
You really do not want to go heavy with any treatment (pesticide, fungicide, fertilizer) unless it's absolutely necessary. Neem is not (opinion) a good choice for gnats, especially if you have an inclination to go heavy handed. Use a mosquito bit drench, only when the plant needs to be watered (no more frequently) to kill the larvae in the substrate. Use sticky traps to catch the adults. Do a few cycles of this to get all generations. Also, repotting to combat gnats only serves to stress the plant out. It's not going to stop the gnat problem.
You will never be rid of gnats forever, they are part of the 'intentionally keeping big moist pots of dirt in our homes' package. Gnats also are not worth panicking over or making rash treatment decisions. Save that feeling for spider mites :)
I can't tell you if it's going to recover from the neem, just that you should stop using it in this instance.
I use this thermostat: Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat for Heat Mats [link]
And I got a strip of LED lights, a remote control dimmer, and a power cord on Amazon for lighting since it gives off no heat and can be adjusted. I can link you if you're interested in that :) Although I will add that my BRB freezes and/or retreats to a hide with lights on. Pitch black and he'll pop out within ten minutes!
Whoa, that thing is expensive. I use this one from amazon and works really well.
Snagged these for $89 yesterday on Amazon. Seemed like a steal. Maybe they'll be back on sale tomorrow.
edit: the 600w version of that light is on sale still
No problem. I haven't told my family and only told 3 close friends about my decision to Prius dwell due to the stigma, so I enjoy talking about this with whoever I can. I think this is the one I got: AMAZON LINK
I recommend a Prius v (wagon) as every little bit of extra room helps. :) But either way, with the amount of use and wear you will be putting on the car simply by living in it, I would recommend going used. The Prius is extremely reliable. I had the option to get an extended warranty for an extra $1200 on mine, but I talked to a trusted mechanic, and he told me there was no need. And in the off chance something does break, there are plenty of used Prius parts you can get for cheap.
I would get a thermostat ASAP. They're only 20$ on amazon for a cheap one! 98 isn't very comfortable and you're right that he might not be moving despite it being hot because he's still scared. My worry would just be if the heating pad spiked or something malfunctioned and it went above 100 degrees, which is burn territory.
If you're really worried and can afford the thermostat now, I would buy one. :)
You can get a MarsHydro 300 for $65 with free shipping off amazon/eBay and it has almost the same exact specs.
That website is getting a cut from that light company. That’s the only reason they are recommending that garbage.