It’s called a ssscat. I have one. Use it. Love it. It gets bonus points for occasionally scaring my wife even more than the cat.
Hmm. When does it scratch you? Just randomly? Maybe you're getting too rough with it or touching it too much and it's trying to tell you to give it some space?
Are you playing with it daily? I strongly recommend playing with it for at least 5-10 minutes every day. It's the equivalent to taking it for a walk and helps curb a lot of behavioral issues. This is hands down the best toy you can get - https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Dancer-101-Interactive-Toy/dp/B0006N9I68. My cats are also partial to chasing rolled up tinfoil balls that I throw for them.
For behavioral stuff I recommend checking out some books by the My Cat From Hell guy Jackson Galaxy. He's an actual expert, so his advice will probably be more helpful.
get some enzymatic pet stain remover. Its designed for the job. https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K
Ssscat. Although the replacement canisters are kind of expensive, I recently found out that the top is fairly universal and apparently you can just use compressed air from Staples or something. We have gotten to the point that we don't even need it on our counters anymore, and mostly use it if we want to keep the kitties out of a room temporarily, we just set it outside, and they stay away without scratching at the door. We usually don't even turn it on anymore.
A few things to add: It's not dangerous to ingest, assuming you get Food Grade. Yes, you read that correctly. There is Food Grade (used for pest control) and Pool Grade (used for pool filters). Food grade is safe for use in the home and on garden plants. So the danger isn't that it will get in your pet's food, it's that your pets will sniff at the dust and inhale it. DE is very abrasive and can damage the lungs if inhaled.
The second thing, as DE is very abrasive, you don't want to use your $500 Dyson to vacuum it up. Use a shop vac.
Finally, buy it in bulk. When I last checked (a few weeks ago) Lowes had something like 7-10 oz for $10. That bag on Amazon is $22 for 10 pounds.
I've used this, SSSCat, to deter my girl from jumping to areas she's not supposed to. But she's a little devil, and if I remove it, she'll go back up. However, now I don't need to turn it on. It's presence is enough of a deterrent.
This is the cage I got for mine. It's a little pricey but it's great quality, metal and solid. Also very easy to assemble and clean with the way both doors on each level open up. https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=bmx_i2814f1n_1/138-9088593-0936157?pd_rd_w=ZikYz&pf_rd_p=1f75fbb3-7d95-464f-8182-952155c0316b&pf_rd_r=VXJZYWA78JHW8B6CVGBD&pd_rd_r=fa9b4324-5134-4fec-96c8...
Check out this thing I used from Amazon! I have a climbing, chatty tortie who LOVED placing her ass directly on my dish towels/dishes and this fixed it.
Yes!! Came to say the same. Damn thing is $3 on Amazon and my cat goes insane for it. All the expensive toys just sit gathering dust.
Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VKE1J462AJ0QB3Z4S0DC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hilarious! Here's the product: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9
Clean every touchable surface with an enzyme cleaner.
Seal up the house and run a professional grade ozonator, you’ll probably want to place it wherever the smell is the worst.
Test the water again with a liquid kit as strips are super inaccurate.
Seriously, this is the most inhumane and dumb shit someone could do.
I adopted a pair earlier this year and the guy who sold them to me had them in this tiny little cage that could maybe fit one for a short weekend trip.
First thing I did when I got home was ordering a giant cage off amazon. (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00176F5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_QxfjCb9X61SPW)
For the time they were in the tiny cage until the new one arrived, they wouldn't move much and looked miserable and angry.
Now they are active and have tons of room to fly around in their cage and look much happier than when I got them.
It's harder if you've left it later, but there are a few options.
Motion detecting repellent is probably the best way. They train cats that a location is off-limits because they'll get sprayed, even if you're not around. It happens every time, all the time, so they quickly learn. Best of all, it's never linked to you so it can't possibly harm your relationship with your cat. Alternatively tape down some aluminum foil on the area. Many cats hate the fact it russles as they walk on it and it will panic them.
If you're around when the cat gets scared though you then have to fuss over them to make them happy.
What's also important though is if your cats like the counters they likely like being high, in which case it will really help if there's an alternative. Shelving or a cat tree for example. These can be harder to simply implement but they can really help.
And finally, don't leave incentives for your cat to jump up if you do. Don't leave food out etc. Reduce the reasons they want to be up there.
Here ends my knowledge gained from watching My Cat From Hell
I’ve purchased these little things that sense motion and spray air to keep mine from jumping on a table where he was constantly knocking down a lamp! He jumped up maybe twice, was sprayed with air, and has never jumped up on the table again since! link
I would say a cage like this is strongly recommended for happy lovebirds, unless you’re letting them free roam your house a few hours a day and the cage is for sleeping only.
I believe Air Wick makes them you can buy them almost anywhere. Drug stores, grocery stores, Wal-mart, Target, etc.
EDIT: There is an actual item made for the sole purpose of repelling pets. It's called a Ssscat
They look ok from this, but unfortunately test strips are actually incredibly unreliable. They also don't test for ammonia, which is possibly the #1 most important thing you need to test for. As soon as you're able, you'll want to pick up a liquid test kit instead so you know things are ok for sure. This is the cheapest but also most accurate one out there.
It can be hard to tell when theyre dehydrated, or just being wrinkly boys. I'd like to hear someone else opinion on it, but she does look dehydrated to my uneducated eye.
The temps are a tad on the high side, you want to stick to 72-75f as much as possible, although as long as its not getting over 80f it's probably not an issue. Are you using a thermostat to control the heater? With any heating device for reptiles, you absolutely *need to have them hooked up to thermostats like this to ensure your not overheating or burning your animals.
Also, just a word of advice, you really should ditch the red heat lamp.
Red (and to some extent the blue/purple) "nighttime" heat lamps are actually pretty harmful to reptiles. In a nutshell, they can still absolutely see the light as light, so it disturbs their day/night cycle. They need absolute darkness at night. Their eyes also wont react to red light properly, giving it the possibility of burning their eyes out.
You should switch it to a ceramic heat emitter, or deep heat projector. Both of which emit zero light, which is necessary for all reptiles at night.
Immediately: CHE for heat ($10), thermostat to control heat ($20), digital thermometer/hydrometer ($10).
Soon: larger water dish, more hides, fresh substrate.
Use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for heat. Found cheaper on amazon than at a pet store. Doesn't emit light, probably the best source of heat and provides a better ambient temp than a UTH can. UTH's seem to only work well if the room your snake in is already at like 75 degrees.
All heat sources should be tied to a thermostat -- this regulates the heat so you don't fry/overheat your snake. Try this for $18.
Get a digital thermometer + hydrometer; digital are more accurate and you want to stay away from anything with an adhesive (most analogs have this). Try this for $10.
Get a water dish big enough for that snake to soak in. Search the kitchen section of a store -- possibly cheaper than a $20 dog bowl.
Cardboard hides are fine; they do the job. Give snake another on the other end of the cage. Toss them if they become soiled or mold. Poptart boxes do the trick at my house.
If you want to replace that substrate, aspen works fine. If you don't have the cash for that, paper towels also work.
You need to go see a vet. He is dying. You also need to get a water test kit like this. The water needs to stay between 15-18 Celsius. He should be eating earthworms at this point.
Maybe try this? It's overpriced on amazon for some reason, you should be able to get it half the price if you shop around.
It will startle you and your SO just as much, but it's hilarious.
The strips tend to not be particularly well regarded. They're really hard to read and aren't known for being super accurate.
Liquid test kits tend to be better and easier to read. Something like theAPI master test kit is recommended as an easy all in one option that's in pretty much every pet store.
Personally I think you might be starting out on the wrong foot if you use distilled. Honestly better to get the 4 stage RO Buddie from Amazon for $60.
This isn’t really the hobby to cut corners on, but you do you.
Ok go do a 25% water change. Make sure to follow the instruction on the water conditioner.
Next step. Go back to the store and tell them they’re all idiots. Pick up a liquid water test kit. API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit, White, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BF5NH7G5CR7RMD5G528C
Get a slime coat solution like seachem stressguard too.
You can try a ssscat device, you can buy it online and possibly at a local pet store. It is motion sensored so when it cat comes near it will put out a puff of air and it won't go into your room. We use it to keep the cats away from our door at night or they will lick our faces when we sleep.
Here is a link to amazon and reviews https://www.amazon.com/HunterShop-KIT19001-PetSafe-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G
Since you had fish die of unknown causes I would disinfect everything in the tank and get new filter media. Bleach/white vinegar are good options for cleaning. Just make sure everything is super well rinsed afterwards.
There's been no fish in there for a while, so the cycle will be dead. Ordinarily you don't ever want to change out your filter media (save for chemical filtration types ex. carbon) as it would crash your cycle.
Make sure you fishless cycle the tank.
You also 100% need a liquid water test kit.
As far as plants go, have sand as a substrate and get some root tabs. Easy plants: java ferns (don't bury these, tie to decor), anubias (don't bury rhizome), java moss, moss balls, anacharis, and amazon swords.
The nicrew lights on amazon are really cheap and work well for low-tech, low-light setups.
Bare minimum for a betta to be healthy and happy:
-5 gallon tank or larger (with a lid, since bettas can and will jump surprisingly high)
-Water testing kit
-Decor (this can be as cheap or as expensive as you want)
Most of the basic equipment will be cheapest if you buy used. The water testing kit is cheapest on Amazon. You also don't need to buy everything at once. Start with the tank, filter, conditioner, and testing kit, and you can begin working on your fishless cycle while you get the decorations and everything else. Food you can get at the same time as the fish if you want. I've found craft mesh makes a really cheap tank lid.
After everything is set up, make sure you can dedicate just a little time to daily feeding and weekly water testing and water changes.
I'd just like to point out that these things are the minimum. I understand college can be very demanding as far as time, space, and money goes. If this sounds like too much, I highly encourage you to wait on getting a betta until after college. Don't sacrifice the fish's health in order to get one now. /r/Jarrariums can give you some super neat ideas for smaller, cheaper, lower-maintenance setups that don't include fish but will still be very nice and relaxing.
The API master test kit contains everything you need, and is on sale on amazon right now for wayyyyyy cheaper than in any stores.
I'd fully recommend the api kit compared to the paper kits that are out there, as the paper kits are notoriously inaccurate.
We have this cage or one very similar: Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1RNV3Y1703XVM2TSN8EF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The pans avoid the issues of bumblefoot but we still pad it out with fleece. Our rats chew through the fleece so we end up buying more pretty regularly but it’s plenty of space for our 4 rattos :)
A 2 story critter nation should be plenty. You can officially add a 3rd story no problem if 2 isn't enough. Or connect 2 or more side by side.
A 2 story CN Cage is ~$250.
Edit: Apparently they've gone up a bit ($300) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6GMW5HA8MRT2V5G6NR41
Hopefully your local shippers aren't trash and kick yours off the back of the truck....
I would suggest getting the following first:
- Tank (Also buy a filter if your tank doesn't come with one)
- Fish food
- Water Testing Kit
Once you scape your tank you should add a pinch of fish food to start off the Nitrogen Cycle
And over the next 2-6 months you should constantly check your water conditions. Once you have 0 ppm of amonia and nitrite you will be able to add livestock To the tank.
If you do have any more questions or you just need help just DM me and I'll be happy to help!
Hahaha this reminded me of this old thing my mom used to have for our cats. It’s motion activated canned air and it is the funniest thing I have ever seen. You just stick it on your counter facing the part where your cats would jump up and then when they do, it’ll just spray a quick, loud burst of air that sounds like a hiss. Your cats will indubitably flip their shit and get off the counter.
Oh man, thanks for the memories. Here it is on Amazon.
Using a water test kit! Absolutely necessary for fish-keeping. You can get them at most pet stores, but they're cheaper on Amazon. Make sure you get a LIQUID DROP kit, not paper test strips. The paper strips are horribly inaccurate.
Don't worry about the pH, what you need the values for are ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The only safe value for ammonia or nitrite is 0ppm. Anything higher is harmful and can cause a lot of issues with fish and their tanks, including cloudy water. Same goes for nitrates, but nitrates are safe up to 20ppm. You still want to keep them as low as you can though.
In the meantime, do lots of partial water changes. If your water is that cloudy, I can almost guarantee it's a water quality issue, and doing water changes will help reduce the levels in your tank into safer measures, and in the process clear things up.
I'm not trying to upset you or make you feel bad. I'm trying to explain part of what the issue is, and prevent bad things from happening to your fish as well in the future. Please just read the care guide I linked if you don't believe me.
Believe me when I say I understand money issues, I've had/am having my fair share of them, but these fish are relying on you/your sister/your guardians for all their care. Space, safe heating, and safe filtration are necessities for these pets to live and thrive.
10 gallon tanks are $10 right now at pet co if you're in the continental US, I highly recommend that as a cheap option for an upgrade. A lot of pet stores will also test your water for free if you bring in a sample. Test kits are $18.15 on Amazon right now, I know that's not cheap but it's insanely important to save up for and get one asap. Craigslist, /r/Aquaswap, facebook marketplace, etc are all great places to look for cheap used equipment as well. If you're in the Wisconsin area, pm me and I can give you some of my old supplies.
What I'm trying to tell you is, like /u/pyropixieshesaid said, the heater is not the only issue here. Poor water quality from living in a small unfiltered tank will cause stress and health issues to begin with (even if they don't seem immediately visible) and while the heater definitely seems to have triggered/made things worse, it's not the only problem here.
Go with Neocardina, they come in basically every color.
What you need to understand tho is this. If you mix different colors of neocardina, they will interbreed and eventually your tank will return to wild color neos which are clear/brown. If you want to prevent this you can mix species that cant breed, such as Neocardina + cardina.
I recommend you pick any color neocardina shrimp. If you plan on doing a multispecies tank, think about getting a cheap r/o system like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/
Learn to use saltyshrimp gh/kh salt to get parameters right. Set it for cardina shrimp. since neos can live in cardina parameters. Get neos first, After 2-3 months if your neos are thriving, then add in some cardina shrimps.
Make sure to allow your tank enough time to cycle! It usually takes 4 or so weeks to cycle. During your cycle is a good time to figure out and make adjustments to your hard scape and plants, in my opinion, since there aren't any shrimp in there that you'd have to worry about and work around. Make sure you have a water testing kit and test every 2-3 days to track how your cycle is going. This is one of the most commonly used and best kits.
Mosses are a good choice because biofilm will grow on them. I'd suggest getting a sponge filter too because the shrimp will like to graze on it and will help filter your water. Also, if your shrimp have babies a sponge filter is the best way to ensure they have food to eat and won't get sucked up and die.
Unless your tank has a ton of shrimp you probably won't have to feed them at all. Test out if they have enough food by putting some blanched vegetables in the tank and if they seem uninterested after 15 or so minutes then they probably don't need to be fed and have enough food naturally building up in the tank. Don't over feed, especially in a small tank like that. If you do it will cause ammonia to quickly buildup and can kill your shrimp.
The biggest thing I have noticed is to have fun with it and see what works for you. Do your own research on everything, even the stuff I suggested, and figure out how to care for them through mild trial and error. Don't be afraid to change up your scape a few times if you're not in love with it or if it's not growing how you want. Some of your shrimp will die early on but don't be discouraged.
Get a water testing kit to monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates, as those are vital for fish health. Safe parameters are 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and 20ppm or less nitrates. I recommend the liquid test kit over test strips, as strips can be very inaccurate and don't always include ammonia.
In the meantime, do a 50% water change for each of them immediately with new water, treated with water conditioner. That should help dilute the waste in the tank.
Might wanna see if any fish stores or /r/AquaSwap in the area will rehome your fish instead of you trying to save them. I'd say your best bet is to rehome the non-betta fish and then keep your betta in the tank alone (like it should in that tank) and keep the water quality pristine with daily water changes and get yourself a freshwater testing kit https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ref=asc_df_B000255NCI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198072615033&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14506176137279092008&hvpone=&hvptwo=&h...
> No one has answered me this
No-one can really answer unless you do a water test. Yes, it looks like it's low on oxygen in warm water, but who knows?
Get this, or lose fish: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/
yup that makes tons of sense i was just to excited to think lol why i posted here. im getting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_13EWV2AKY1KJJF1HACY2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 now
I use Rocco & Roxy stain and odor eliminator. It’s mostly for pet urine but it works really well for any organic stuff like vomit.
Rocco & Roxie Professional Strength Stain & Odor Eliminator - Enzyme-Powered Pet Odor & Stain Remover for Dog and Cats Urine - Carpet Cleaner Spray - Enzymatic Cat Pee Destroyer - for Small Animals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7DVBF8YS5BAHGJVTM0MN
You'll save money in the long run if you buy one of these. That's a super good sale right now, too.
If your cats counter surf and you don't want them to, that's your own fault.
I've had 6 cats through my life and I've just bought this thing that sprays air when it detects motion in front of it (years ago it was aluminum foil instead), left it on the counter while I slept or went to school/work and all of mine have stopped jumping up within a week or two of coming home.
"The cat's gonna do whatever they want" is just code for "I'm a lazy owner who won't make any attempt to train them" imo.
Yes YT or some chill playlist is a perfect thing for them to get more comfortable. For the parakeets if the room is quiet it means it’s danger around. So you are doing a right thing to adding some background noise for them! Also I suggest cover the cage during the night with a cloth, it will muffle the sound & make them feel safer.
Birds are taking it hard to be rehomed & all I can suggest is to be patient. It will most likely take around 2-3 weeks to get them settle in & get comfortable. But yes, this cage is more like a transporting cage, I suggest check out Amazon for bigger cages with big doors. like this
You can also find better perches on amazon suggestions (basically pieces of branches you attach to the sides with metal fastenings, also wooden toys, swings, ladders, chewing toys, rattan/hay balls for rodents (I suggest to not add any mirrors & toys made of cheap fragile plastic) also do not use any air fresheners, hair sprays, scented oil diffusers, scented candles, perfumes in the same room as birds. They have very sensitive lungs, this is one of the biggest hazards for them.
Starter bacteria is usually a waste of money. Step 1:) Thoroughly, understand the cycling process. 2:) Get yourself a water testing kit (avoid the strips), something like API Freshwater Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI . Step 3:) I cycled my aquarium by putting small amounts of plain ammonia in it, look at the ingredients to make certain it does NOT have surfactants in it. Step 4:) You're going to have to wait something like 4-8 weeks for it to completely cycle. Step 5:) Add your fish slowly, species by species, so as to not bombard your bacteria cultures. You have to be patient with this. Glo fish generally aren't cheap.
I think that's a good plan. If you have access to Amazon, I can't recommend this birdcage enough. I have gotten one for all my birds and most recently my 2 English budgies upgraded and they think it's the best thing ever. The rolling ability rocks and this thing is HUGE for the price you are paying.
Don't get discouraged...the people on this subreddit and /r/parrots are really helpful and supportive. I'm really happy you are looking for advice and talking with people about what to do to make your bird happy and healthy. That shows you care.
API freshwater Master test kit so you can measure you're water parameters. You can find it at your lps or lfs Amazon.
I'm still learning myself but you want to watch out for Ammonia and nitrite and nitrate getting Too high. Nitrate is the safest of the 3 but you need to make sure it doesn't get crazy.
Edit... is...isn't...same thing
The API Test Kit is most commonly used and it's $22 on Amazon. It's definitely worth the investment and lasts a long time.
Don't be too scared, it's not something you want to be breathing in like you wouldn't want to breathe in lots of flour or baking soda or anything either. They do sell Diatomaceous Earth in food grade however so it's certainly not inherently harmful if ingested. Some people eat it on purpose as a supplement.
This is some bits of cardboard on a thin black wire. Because the wire is very thin and black its almost invisible when moving, and the rigidity of the wire makes the cardboard move around erratically.
My cat goes absolutely insane for this toy to the point where I have to hide it when we aren't actively playing with it because if I don't she will drag it into a corner and act like a feral cat. It's a little over $2 on amazon but they sell it in most pet stores for about the same price.
I used the cage you have as a temporary cage for my cockatiel as my cage I originally ordered him wouldn't come in time for him. I didn't like it very much because I still found it too small for him.
This is the cage that I had originally bought him and use to this date: Prevue Hendryx Pet Products Wrought Iron Flight Cage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176F5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_EWTCXERDBM07K32JA157
You can find it cheaper on Petco I believe, especially since they have discounts often. I got mine for around $118. This one was cheaper than the one you have for some reason (I suspect it's because if the thinner bars).
I always wanted to share this.... This spray is absolutely amazing at getting stains out of fabrics. I had a couch in our chased that smelled terrible. I tried everything... Literally everything from industrial cleaning stuff to home remedies..
This stuff got thr smell out and removes carpet stains like no other.
Ssssscat can works for us
Or spiked plastic mats
You can get a thermostat like this to use with your heat lamp so that it stays just the right temperature all the time!
Critter Nation. Sturdy, large (especially if you get the double), easy to clean. Got mine second hand for around $80.
Here's a link so you know what it looks like: https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-162-leak-Proof-Measures/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr\_1\_2?dchild=1&keywords=critter+nation&qid=1626655904&sr=8-2
You’ll need this.
The best toy I’ve ever found is the Cat Dancer.
So simple, but in 30 years I’ve never found anything better. Easy to entertain them while on a zoom call, because it bounces around just right so they think you are paying attention to them and not that stupid screen you keep staring at for no reason. Yes, it looks like you could easily make your own - but the cats clearly understand that a homemade version is inferior, so just spend the $2.
I know The reptile carpet isn’t the best for them and I’m working to get a bio build going as soon as I can, hopefully in the next couple months! I don’t want him getting his toes hurt on the carpet 🥺
I’ve got a CHE going almost 24/7, it keeps the air temps around 75 at the lowest (it averages 55-60 degrees indoors in my current situation so it’s the best I can do to combat that cold!)
I have a heat mat to supplement the CHE that’s controlled via this heat mat controller too, set to turn on at 88 and turn off at 91 degrees.
I recently learned they need a solid back wall to feel more secure so that’s the foam rock wall added in the back as of today!
I appreciate any points and tips!
In the meantime, this is the best urine cleaner I have ever used. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_R0DH292F988YW0DTN2V1
I like that the smell is minty instead of floral. In the past I've used other products and I've mentally associated the perfume smell with urine but this smell is distinct enough.
Heat mats should always be used with a digital thermostat, with the probe right next to the mat (both under the enclosure). That way you will never get a runaway overheat situation.
Some people get a pretty small wattage mat so it just never gets very hot. But it's safer and better for the snake if all heat sources are (each) regulated by their own thermostat.
Here is my favorite:
Under 20 bucks and easy to set up.
API Master freshwater test kit is excellent. And a good value.
Research the nitrogen cycle before you buy any fish.
This kit doesn’t measure water hardness. Get that done free at your pet store. It shouldn’t change much as long as you use the same water source. Tailor your fish selection to your water hardness and pH and you’ll have a much easier time with your new hobby from the start!
Being completely honest here, i despise those cages. They’re overpriced for the amount of space you get (which isnt enough for any species) for your bird and do not use space effectively (which is obviously a massive thing for birds)
You’d essentially be downgrading the amount of space he has to work with, is there a reason you can’t bring his current cage into another room? Are you hellbent on a tabletop cage? this cage is around the same price but its way more space
Ahh I’m jealous, kittens are so fun! And a huge pain, but mostly fun lol. You probably already have a bunch of cat toys, but if you do need any I always tell people to get a cat dancer or a da bird. Cats go absolutely NUTS for both of them and I don’t know why
AQUATICLIFE Aquatic Life RO Buddie Plus DI Four Stage Reverse Osmosis Deionization Unit 50 GPD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RWEK578KXCH1CX3DK6GP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Regular 109 so a pretty good sale
Your tanks most likely aren’t fully cycled. In my experience, it usually takes a little more than a month to establish the bacteria that make the aquarium nitrogen cycle happen. (The cycle is as follows: fish produce ammonia, bacteria break ammonia into nitrite, and a different bacteria break it into nitrate. Then you remove nitrate by doing weekly water changes)
As you probably have fish in uncycled tanks, you’re doing a fish-in cycle. That’s a little risky, as you found out the hard way. Test your tanks ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate every day. Change 30% of the water whenever one of those values get too high. That will likely be every 2-4 days. When your ammonia and nitrite are nearly zero and you’ve got high nitrates, your tank is cycled.
And a quick word on water change, make sure that the new dechlorinated water is close to the same temperature; temperature shock can kill fish. You may also want to grab the API Master Kit, as testing strips can get expensive for two cycling tanks. Link here: https://amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/
Sounds good, I would try switching to a coconut husk of some sort as it will hold the humidity way better (I prefer eco earth) and a thermostat regulates temperature (a thermometer measures it). So you plug your lamps/heat mats into the the thermostat and place the thermostat probe in your enclosure, and it will regulate the heat by turning the lights/mat/heat emitter, etc on and off to stay at a consistent temperature. Otherwise they could run too hot and injure your snake. Here is an affordable one many people use - https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108Â°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=thermostat+jumpstart&qid=1610396946&sr=8-7
it looks like a critter nation. cant tell if its a single or double, but i bought mine on amazon:
Thanks. I'm going with food-grade diatomaceous earth. Seems to be good for ants, roaches, fleas, and termites. Being the cheap b that I am, just trying to decide if I want to spring an extra 10 for a bespoke duster, or try to use an empty dish-soap bottle or empty parmesan-cheese container.
ETA: I just read a review on Amazon (can't find a way to link that specific review) which states that diatomaceous earth is effective against fire-ant colonies. Dude has 5 acres. It took him three years of diligent application of DE dust to every hill he found, but in the fourth year his property was fire-ant free, while his neighbors still have fire-ants. It's on the second page of reviews.
2nd this. FOOD GRADE ONLY.
You can get a massive bag that will cover your house/apt 10 times over on Amazon for $20
This also will kill spiders, ants, cockroaches, etc (any hard shelled insect). You can sprinkle some on the animals as well, but it will dry out their skin (and yours).
So, first thing, test strips are basically useless. They're hard to read and also very inaccurate. Here's an example.
Next thing, pH isn't that important. It's more important that it's kept constant than that it is a specific number, so don't worry about pH really. Especially do not use any chemicals that are intended to alter it, as that will make it unstable.
The most important things to be checking are ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. The cheapest most reliable testing kits are the API freshwater master test kits. They're cheapest on amazon but they're also sold in most pet stores, and the price isn't majorly different. Get one of those as soon as you can.
There is no way the tank that goldfish is currently in is cycled if there's any ammonia present. Do you have a filter on it? If so, how long has the tank been running and what is your water change schedule?
They are actually on sale for half off on Amazon right now! - ours cost $41. Snatch it up while you can, IMO, /u/cockleburrito
>If you've been doing a fish-in cycle for 2 months and haven't lost a fish, go ahead and pat yourself on the back for that.
>I would imagine that after 2 months and fish, your tank may actually be cycled already.
I also second this, although using Platies probably helped a lot with that. They're about as close to indestructible as you can get in aquarium fish, which is why a lot of people recommend using livebearers if you absolutely have to do a fish-in cycle.
Amazon is selling these flight cages for only $85 right now. For their size, they are an absolute steal (normal price is $100).
I agree that the goal should never be to simply get the minimum cage size for any bird. The small birds in particular are very active, and benefit greatly from having enough space to hop, fly, climb, and play. Especially if they are going to be locked up for most of the day.
I recently bought a big bag of Diatomaceous Earth off Amazon for $20 after reading it’s a natural and safe flea and bug treatment for dogs and cats. I spread some handfuls along an ant trail that developed in our kitchen and presses it into the cracks they were coming through. By the next day there were no more ants and they have yet to reappear. It’s completely safe to eat too but you need to take it on an empty stomach because to adsorbs to everything, which is great for detoxing your insides.
HAVE YOU TRIED SSSCAT?!?! Our kitten is very frisky at night, so we bought this product off Amazon called Ssscat—essentially a canister of compressed air that has a motion detector on it and releases a puff of air if kitty walks by. Not enough to really scare him, but enough to deter the behavior! We use it outside our bedroom and it has HONESTLY been a lifesaver because kitty doesn’t bug us every night!!! He doesn’t even really try to get inside anymore. Just bought one for the guest room for when people sleep over. Can’t recommend highly enough! You’re $30 away from better sleep.
Buy Ssscat on Amazon
What are the dimensions of the 13g? Could you link it maybe? The footprint impacts the tankmates options you have. You could for sure do shrimp and/or snails, and depending of the footprint, a school of dwarf cory catfish! They do great with bettas since they're very peaceful bottom-feeders.
I agree that pure ammonia would be faster and simpler than the food method.
Live plants wont affect the cycle very much. Silk plants are a great option too, choose whichever you prefer.
For substrate, if you get cory catfish you need sand. They like to dig through it with their barbels. It's adorable tbh. Also I just kind prefer sand generally, it looks super nice and makes placing decorations way easy.
A few recommendations:
-The API master test kit is awesome and very accurate. It's also cheaper on Amazon than at any pet store.
-Seachem Prime is the best water conditioner imo, it's super concentrated so it lasts way longer than other brands.
-You didn't mention it, but make sure you get a thermometer too! A heater is important, but it's impossible to know if its working right without a thermometer. Pet Stores sell little glass ones for like $2-$3 that are very accurate. Just whatever you do, don't get the sticker ones you put on the side of the tank... they're very hard to read, and they don't really tell you the water temp, just the temp of the room really.
That's all I can think of right now, good luck with your tank! Sounds very exciting!
You may want to remove fake plastic plants and imagine that their fins are more delicate than nylon tights. Get an API water test kit from Amazon;
Good luck on your future with your fish!
We use Ssscat motion activated air sprayers to keep our critters away from places they're not supposed to be. You don't need to buy the proprietary refills, just get canned air from the office store. The cans are universal fit.
We've been using these things for years. There is also another version by a different company we found on Amazon that also beeps so you can use it even when the canned air runs out. I couldn't find the link for it at the moment though, but it is worth seeking out.
This is the original Ssscat. They are worth it.
PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CQg7AbV1EYM04
Here's a link to a good test kit. You can buy them in stores as well, but they're cheapest on Amazon. In the meantime I'd do a 50% water change immediately, and keep doing those daily until you get the test kit.
This looks like fin rot (the red bits look especially bad), possibly in combination with tearing/biting.
Great! Yeah it looks smaller than it is haha. With the 55 make sure you have lots of plants and stuff to kind of make it not feel so open. As for bioactive I personally don’t but I know two people who have gotten kits/supplies from Josh’s Frogs.
Jumpstart thermostats work good on a budget, I really like this one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cGJxBb08D86B4
It’s called a “Cat Dancer”. They’re super inexpensive ($1.99 on Amazon last time I bought one). My bengal would make these adorable chirping sounds he didn’t normally make while playing with it. It’s also great because you can tape it to the wall when your arm gets tired and they can bat at it on their own time. I’ve given them as gifts to several friends and every cat seems to love it. Here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W5V7BbWNMZ1VK
Best cat toy ever is the cat dancer, it's literally a wire with some rolled cardboard strips. Costs about $4? My cat is 14 and still loves to play with it even after all these years. edit- $2 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Dancer-101-Interactive-Toy/dp/B0006N9I68
How big is his tank and when is the last time you changed his water? Do you use a gravel vacuum to clean the substrate? I can see waste build up at the bottom of the gravel in this picture.
Also you should really invest in your own liquid test kit. They're $14.95 on amazon right now. link
That's exactly why we got them. We got them off of Amazon. Here's exactly what we bought
PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AICeDbZB9F9XJ
Would this testing kit be worth it? Or would you have any one day amazon recommendations? The ones at the store seemed overly priced.
Cat Dancer or similar toy. It’s on a hard wire so you just have to twitch it slightly for it to move wildly. I can even play with kitty while reading a book
Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sNPuFb3XJK28R
API MASTER TEST KITS for Freshwater, Saltwater, Reef Aquariums and Pond, Monitor water quality and help prevent invisible problems that can be harmful to fish, Use weekly and when problems appear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hZlgFbZJAC69S
l 100% understand the quarantine situation. You can get a master test kit from amazon: here. The problem is space. Fish stores and the like will completely BS a customer "Yeah those fish can live together," "Yeah this tank will be big enough," in order to make a sale. Goldfish need a lot of room, single tailed goldfish need an INSANE amount of room. They need this because their bodies will stop growing, but their organs do not. This is why goldfish only live for at most a few years when in tiny spaces before developing health problems or dying from their stunting.
For people who can't upgrade tanks right away I always say do as many water changes as you can while you wait. It won't fix the problem, but it will help. Goodluck, I'm routing for the little guy to live to enjoy a full sized tank.
Vision can be on the fence in terms of longevity. I read of reviews of things breaking and it is unable to find pieces for it. I recommend this one.
You know you have finished cycling when both ammonia and nitrites go to 0 within 12-24h after adding a dose of ammonia. Get API liquid test kit, that way you can check daily on how the cycle is doing. First week your ammonia will be really high but then it starts going down, then you´ll see nitrite spike and that too will subside down (takes a bit longer), after that you are officially cycled. This is a good article with ammonia calculator to give you an overview how the process works.
It can take anything between 2 weeks to a month or two, it depends also how much ammonia you are adding. I wanted to fully stock pretty much straight away, so were adding 3-4ppm (only after it went back down to 0), both 55l and my 90l took 2 weeks to do this.
Is your tank cycled? The test strips for water are wildly inaccurate, so it's suggested to switch to the liquid test kit API Freshwater Master Test Kit
Does he have a heater and filter? What is the temperature of the water? Also, could we get a couple pictures of him, and his tank?
pH is a different thing from ammonia. I recommend getting the liquid test kit over the paper strips if you can afford it—the initial cost is greater, but it will last you far longer than the paper test strips and actually work out to be cheaper per test.
Goldfish “yawning” very frequently can be an indication of poor water quality or inadequate oxygenation. Did you transfer over your old filter or filter media when you switched to the new tank? If you didn’t, you may have crashed your tank cycle.
I understand you’re not able to upgrade their tank currently; definitely check out Petco when they have their 50% off tank sale, or keep an eye on your local Craigslist or similar for someone selling a tank secondhand for cheap.
In the meantime the best thing you can do is to keep up consistent water changes. I’d also recommend removing the gravel—Goldfish will naturally search for food by sucking along the bottom of the tank, which makes swallowing gravel a possibility. You can buy pool filter sand very cheaply from a hardware store and that will be safer for Goldfish.
Actually there is! They’re called heat pad thermometer stats, here’s one
I can't speak for that particular model, but I use these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108%C3%82%C2%B0F/dp/B01I15S6OM They're cheap and reliable. The Jumpstart ones are good too but cost a smidge more. It's normal for the thermostat to turn on and off. The turning on and off is how it maintains the temperature. Heat mats don't have much of an effect on the ambient temperatures. If you need to get the ambient temp up, you'll need to either raise the temp of the actual room or put some heating lamps in.
Try Ssscat, it’s a motion sensor attached to a compressed can of air. My cats did not give two shits about the tin foil but this thing really works. Plus you can refill them with a bike pump so you don’t have to keep buying more
PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Deterrent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_S9F315WAG3CT1FF5792H
Okay so here’s the problem:
You need to know the parameters. Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate are the most important. Here’s the Api Freshwater Testing Kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BJPQSNDZR0H5XMJAM93V
You never ever ever do a 100% water change unless it’s an emergency. Since you have a 5 gallon, you should just be doing 50% water changes weekly. Less is better in this case.
Until you get the parameters of this tank, it’s hard to understand the root of the problem. It could possibly be ammonia poisoning or nitrite poisoning.
And don’t forget to keep the filter cartridge. Do not replace it ever, unless it’s literally falling apart.
Has nobody in this thread heard of this?
Save yourself some plastic, time, and money. RO/DI Plz it does 1000 gallons for like 50 bucks
It depends what conditioner you have. Prime suppressed ammonia and nitrites, and I don’t know what your conditioner does. Do you have a test kit? here is the api master test kit which is on sale for $25. You can instead get these ammonia test strips for $5 but they are far less accurate and they only have ammonia. Plus they won’t last as long.
If you don’t want to use prime, the link I sent includes instructions on how to do a fish in cycle with water changes (you still need to condition the water). Personally, I would test everyday, and do a 25% water change everyday. If you get ammonia levels of .5, you need to do a 50% water change like the article says, but with just one betta in a five gallon I don’t think that will happen.
No worries and I appreciate your concern and input! We’re keeping the pets separate, because honestly I’m not emotionally ready for a new dog yet since I had to put my Great Pyrenees (Prince) down in February. This dog is mostly my dads and he’s retired so he’s here most of the day.
The cats and the rats are mine, but the cats pretty much just stay in my room on the opposite side of the house to my dad’s room (where the dog stays.) I have a gate separating the small hallway into my part of the house (two bedrooms and a bathroom,) but I’m going to get one with a cat door soon. We’re also going to crate train the dog so he won’t just be loose when no one is here. My rats are in a Critter Nation in the living room so I’m not worried about them since I would never just put them near the dog outside of the cage.