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I’ll be damned. You’re right usually I just smash decent/okay punches eventually and cut them down or throw them out but it looks like its time for an upgrade amazon link
Shoot man, I bought so many roll punch sets on Amazon before finding some that didn’t immediately break when pounding out CZ’s stupid tight pins. Here’s a link to the ones I got that haven’t broke yet. USA-made.
Grace USA RS-7 - Steel Roll... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007WADKN0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
For the sight pusher I went with the more expensive Wheeler Engineering one on Amazon. Obviously works great and bomb-proof. But heard decent (conflicting) things about the much cheaper NcStar too.
Officially, it's used for pushing the pins out of door hinges. It can be used to break windows in cars.
https://i.imgur.com/x77XHw0.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-Available-PM407-Hinge/dp/B003BHDHI6/ref=asc_df_B003BHDHI6
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Roll-Starter-Punch/dp/B01B3NWBVI
Very worth the cost.
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Edit: I generally put my gas blocks in a vise with the hole aligned vertically so i can hammer in the roll pin straight.
Ball bearing, or a roll-pin punch set. My WASR had a mag latch pin that wasn't flared on one side, and started to slide out. Ordered a roll-pin punch set off of Amazon for like $10, and that did the job, along with a sturdy backing and a heavy hammer.
Looks like a small spring-loaded nail set tool used to quickly touch up nail-gun mistakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-Available-PM407-Hinge/dp/B003BHDHI6
Here’s one in action:
Punch it down with a nail set and use a wax filler stick to fill the hole, that’s the traditional way of doing it
I have 3 additions to your list:
Snap guns, slide hammers, and springs.
Snap gunning a lock is like picking but it's something of a skill in and of itself. First evaluate the keyway. Do you have a nice long vertical runway? That's a shitty keyway, and shitty keyways usually indicate shitty locks that are easy to snap gun. Place your tension wrench into the keyway in a place that gives you good runway, then start snapping. If you get a large rotation after a snap but you're now stuck or the lock isn't moving farther, you're probably bound up. Gently release tension until you hear a click. That should be sound of the bound-up pin dropping.
Slide hammers, you don't need to pick the cylinder if you can just remove it.
Spring loaded hinge pin removers will get the job done a lot faster than a hammer and punch.
Get yourself one of these and it’ll be fixed in a 2 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Tools-32R02-1-Counter-Punch/dp/B0006Q4I60/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=2OH1HP3IEIZV9&keywords=nail+spring&qid=1648176657&sprefix=nail+spring%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-4#
If you get the inclination to change out the handguard and gas block, the handguard isn't too bad with a decent armorer's wrench. The gas block, however, I found to be a giant pain in the ass, but as with most other gun related jobs, I used a spring loaded center punch to get those wretched pins out. I just did this gas block swap on Saturday, so don't hesitate to hit me up with questions. I linked the tool I used to get the gas block pins out below.
Spring Tools 32R02-1 Nail Set and Counter Punch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Q4I60/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_3244F58T01ZDJT59ARVW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Drive-Pin-Punch-S565WB-Pieces/dp/B00008IHTJ?th=1
Less than $10/punch if you break it down, should handle all of your roll pin needs and then some. SK has similar offerings that cost a bit north of $100.
Now we’re talking! Just grabbed one of these from Amazon. For $10 this is amazing, and I’m assuming it works because it’s got nearly perfect 5 stars. Spring Tools 32R02-1 Nail Set and Counter Punch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Q4I60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_00KKSJZWESPD9V4FYJ1A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I can say for certain those are NOT the proper tools to remove a roll pin.
A proper roll pin punch has a tit at the end that fits in the roll pin and a sharp edge that fits over the outermost edge of the pin. This keeps the roll pin from deforming or rolling Over the at the end and wedging itself in the hole. The punches you have may work, but you chance deforming the pin every time you hit it, you basically push the pin open every time you hit it because of the split down the side.
A proper split pin punch does not do this, the design keeps the pin from splaying open when you hit it.
9 Pieces Roll Pin Punch Set, Gunsmithing Kit Removing Repair Tool with Holder for Automotive, Watch Repair,Jewelry and Craft (9-Pieces) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JNS1ZF7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_DBJZBA90XW46MRCX03BS
I’ve been using this one for nearly a decade. A bit pricey now. Wheeler would probably be a good route too.
The wheeler will come with a poly/brass hammer. Poly side is great for getting the pin held in place with friction in the block without marring the block. From there, take the appropriate size punch and nestle it on the pin and give gentle taps. I check that the tube hasn’t shifted inside the block during this process. Once you’ve determined that the pin has mated with the pin hole on the tube, drive until it mates cleanly with the other side of the block.
Other good ideas here but you should really invest in at least a decent roll punch set.
How about some less common stuff? Spring nail sets, or perhaps a nice corner chisel for setting door hinges? I like clean work :) these tools go a long way in getting that next level finish
On a roll pin in a part, correctly oriented for square contact between the pin, punch, and mallet, a properly-sized roll pin punch should have minimal chance of slipping from the roll pin, thanks to the nub on the end of the punch.
Second to that, for general pins, a good set of machine-ground punches like these (also available in brass) should also have minimal chance of slipping or otherwise marring the surface, again provided everything else is properly fixtured and you remember to start with the smallest hammer you have and work your way up as needed. Hammering is its own amazing art.
If you're particularly worried, the best avenue would probably be to get a couple of sticks of Delrin or UHMW and machine your own punches, which ensures you'll get exactly what you want. Proper method would be to use a lathe, but for, say, a one-off tool for a particular purpose, you could probably get away with chucking the plastic up in a drill and gently using a file and fine-grit sandpaper to achieve final size, just remember to start with the closest-to-final-size stock you can get, and accept that you won't get a properly-functioning roll pin punch no matter how hard you try, only square-end pin punches.
Thanks! I used a 6/4mm steel tube and a 1,5mm injector pin (and handles from the well-known Chinese pick).
This was the most helpful thing I could find on the internet for this! I got the following to work:
- Took off the lower and all the internals
- Hammered out the pin with a standard hammer and a 1/16" pin like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNS1ZF7. Charging handle side up. Just a couple gentle taps got it out
- Gently poured in Goo Gone from a small cup into the space on the sides of the pic rail and plastic dovetail. I poured some in from the front with a paper towel to catch excess
- Shimmed the spaces with a square razor blade to make sure the goo gone got in there.
- ~5min later I put the lower barrel-down on to a shirt on carpet, set a flathead in the pic section closest to the barrel, and tapped screwdriver and pic rail out with slightly harder taps than with the pin
I tried a heat gun and grippers after removing the pin but only got the rail warm to the touch (probably about as hot as sink water). I was afraid of deforming the plastic in the adjacent areas so I then tried the goo gone.
Hope this helps the next person! Frustrating that the MK5 is sold without instructions for a 5.5" kriss that has a barrel device to protect your hand.
My set of Starret punches has been excellent. I've got a cheap set of Wheeler brass and plastic punches that have also been fine.
All you really need is a punch tool set. I HIGHLY recommend getting this tool set, or another one that is "rolled" on the ends for the rolling pins. A couple of my pins got fucked up or didn't go in, with my flat ended punch set.
I used this set, got the fucked pin out in 2 taps, and installed the new rolling pin in 2 taps. SO much better.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L7HOMG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you think these would serve that purpose? I got them for another project earlier on.
Some folks have made them from ejector pins like these, below. I haven't done it personally but it is a common approach.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L7HOMG/
This is a great value set for $10. They have a similar set any any Home Depot or Harbor Freight. That roll pin in particular doesn’t need much to make it move since it’s just sitting in polymer so you could probably get by with a nail or something else about the same size around the house (maybe a ballpoint pen and toothpick?). Mine’s under some talon grips so I can’t check, unfortunately.
I bought these punches, and an armorers wrench, and then I used allen keys as well as a large Phillip's screwdriver instead of a hex screwdriver on the pistol grip screw.
This set is $12 and perfectly good for getting started (I’ve been using my set for a year and still going strong). For an AR you’re only going to need the three smallest ones in that set.
You don’t want to use a roll pin punch to stake a castle nut though, wrong tool for the job. You’d want to use a center punch or I’ve read that a flathead screwdriver works as well.
Hell yeah! Remember, first in, first out for dent repair. Keep the dolly nice and snug against the backside when hammering. Check out a spring tool for knocking down small high spots like a boss.
When mixing bondo or glaze, you do not need a lot of hardener. Put a small dot of hardener next to the glob of putty. Don’t stripe over top. I’ll do roughly a dime size dot for a patch of glaze the size of my palm.
Don’t sand fully hardened bondo. It’s like sanding a brick wall. Try to lightly shave it down with 80 grit right before it cures. It’ll be tacky, but it won’t leave any mud on your finger tip. Sand in a long, even X pattern. I like to do a few strokes one way then switch to the other. Switch to 180 grit after your edges start feathering. Finish off with 320 on an orbital DA.
That appears to be a roll pin have you tried using a roll pin punch and hammer and pushing it out that way? https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Gunsmithing-Removing-Automotive-Jewelry/dp/B07JNS1ZF7 They look like this they support the hollow center portion while you punch it out.
Just ordered it on Amazon. Replacing all our interior doors next week. Perfect timing on seeing this. I hate getting the bottom pin.
Spring Tools PM407 Nail Set and Hinge Pin Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BHDHI6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hbf6Eb1R2EB6P