I second buying books from the country you’re in! I tried to teach myself some throwing in high school using a book published in the UK, and it turned out that much like driving, we typically throw in opposite directions. Plus, I’d only “taught” myself bad habits that I had to be broken of once I was in college. Seek guidance as early as you can! Apart from helping your work vastly and saving money, there’s a lot of dangerous stuff in a ceramics studio that needs to be handled with care. For beginning (or continuing) with glazes, The Complete Guide to Mid-Range Glazes: Glazing and Firing at Cones 4-7 (Lark Ceramics Books) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1454707771/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_xciRFbR6TQJZH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s helpful to buy country specific books when you’re starting out. Assuming you’re still in the UK based on yr profile history, I’d be recommending “From Clay To Kiln” by Stuart Carey because it’s uk based and for beginners.
Limited-time deal: From Clay to Kiln: A Beginner’s Guide to the Potter’s Wheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/1454710926/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_XGGGA28GWZ66EEJD5831 fyi: more in advice for beginners:
hope that helps.
I'm wondering if it might be helpful for you to have a book like "amazing glaze" hanging about in the studio - guessing it's you or someone without kiln knowledge who is loading the kiln, and it's going to be helpful to learn about kiln cookies/wadding/testing/firing safely so that your glaze doesn't turn up on the kiln shelf.
AG: https://www.amazon.com/Amazing-Glaze-Techniques-Recipes-Finishing/dp/0760361037
re: not being US based - guessing amaco will have a distributor. Feel free to DM me if you get stuck and need help.
If you haven't checked out the book from clay to kiln by stuart carey, I'd make a beeline for that:
https://www.amazon.com/Clay-Kiln-Beginners-Guide-Potters/dp/1454710926/
Pretty sure the recommendations are in there - you might be able to work it out from his IG account too.
Congratulations and welcome back. Since you have access to a place that will have a kiln, I’d strongly recommend you contact them and either get your clay directly from them or get the clay they recommend. Most places are not going to fire an unknown or unusual clay mix as it can cause too many issues. Plus they will likely purchase it in bulk so you can get it a bit cheaper (no shipping!).
I wouldn’t worry about purchasing any glazes until after you have actually sent some pieces to the kiln to be bisqued. You can’t get glazes until you know what cone the clay needs to be fired at and can’t know that until you know what clay they provide you. So save your money. Instead get a potters tool kit with the basic tools.
You’ll need to also figure out a place to wedge clay. And figure out where you are going to rinse your hands and tools. You can’t just use your sink. Look up clay trap or bucket techniques, etc. Last, what are you going to do with your clay to be recycled?
Simon Leach has some great YouTube videos. I’d also suggest you get A Potter’s Workbook. https://www.amazon.com/Potters-Workbook-Clary-Illian/dp/0877456712. As it is the best book for learning and relearning, not how to do something but what to do.
Check out GabrIel Kleine’s clear glaze. It’s SO easy and never had any issues. Thick, thin, I’ve tested it successfully cone 3-6. So so clear every time.
I don’t know if the recipe is published online but it’s from this book https://www.amazon.com/Amazing-Glaze-Techniques-Recipes-Finishing/dp/0760361037/ref=nodl_
For books I'd recommend these two above the ben carter books... Don't get me wrong. I think Ben carter is a fantastic potter and teacher. But these books I think cover more useful philosophy:
The Ceramic Bible - https://www.amazon.com/Ceramics-Bible-Complete-Materials-Techniques/dp/1452101620/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516500859&sr=8-1&keywords=the+ceramic+bible one of my favorite books.
Agree about "The Polymer Clay Techniques Book" by Sue Heaser. An oldie but goodie, and always a favorite of mine because she just covers so many different things in one book, and simply. (I wouldn't use some of the same colors or necessarily make the same things, but that won't matter for techniques. That book isn't primarily about sculpting although that's covered a bit.)
https://www.amazon.com/Polymer-Clay-Techniques-Book/dp/1581800088
(paperback is fine... eBay may have used copies cheaper if you're interested in it)
Re painting on baked polymer clay, there are just a few things to know about preparing the surfaces, paints to use and not use, etc:
http://glassattic.com/polymer/paints.htm
And btw, temperature and time are interdependent for the type of plastic that polymer clay is, although too high for a particular brand/line will create more darkening than you might want unless the clay is protected (and it will actually burn at 385), and too low will take much longer than you might want for thoroughly polymerizing all the way to the center.
Re bulk brands/lines of polymer clay usually sold for "sculpting," original plain Sculpey will be very brittle in thin or projecting areas. Super Sculpey-flesh will be better but still brittle in those areas. Super Sculpey-Firm will be strong, and Super Sculpey-Medium will be halfway between SS and SS-Firm.
Other brands of flesh-colored bulk polymer clays will be strong but each will have its own handling characteristics (e.g., Fimo's Doll/Puppen clays and Cernit's Doll Clays).
Welcome to the clay world and this sub. I highly recommend you pick up a copy of A Potters Workbook. https://www.amazon.com/Potters-Workbook-Clary-Illian/dp/0877456712 It is the best at teaching you the underlying concepts of form. I try and run through the exercises every few years and am always learning.
powdered plaster will not work. it will bond with whatever you pour into the mold and ruin the ceramic material.
the reason slipcasting works is because the cured plaster absorbs the water and deflocculant out of the ceramic material.
if you're really interested in learning about slipcasting and dont want to take another class on it from someone who knows a lot, I would recommend Andrew Martin's book - https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Guide-Making-Casting-Ceramics/dp/1600590772
nobody here is going to go in depth enough to teach you how to do it
Hi, there are excellent tutorials both for creating faux bone clay pieces and using paint to create an antique bone effect in the book The Polymer Clay Techniques Book. I really like her recipe for faux bone / ivory and have used it to sculpt tiny animals that look like they were carved from tusk, so hopefully it's helpful to you.
Yes, I'm definitely interested in that solution. Please let me know when you do the guide. Thanks!
Hit me up if you need mold making or slip casting help. Andrew Martin's book is really great.
I've already got the pyrometer from a while back. At that time it was the best option available. But it sounds like in true technological fashion it has been made obsolete. The function of that pyrometer I do really like is being able to use two probes to measure the difference between the top and bottom of the kiln. Would it be difficult to build this multi-probe functionality into your system?
Yes, the way Blaauw does it is with an oxygen sensor in the kiln. That high temp probe is pretty pricy, but is the only way to accurately measure oxidation/neutral/reduction atmosphere in the kiln. Based on what the combination of pyrometer and oxygen probe sense, the controller balances forced air flow, gas, and damper settings. The baseline is the calculation for a stoichiometric burn. But you might be surprised how simple the damper system is. Its not very different from what you have setup. The Blaauw's are also (the one's I've worked with) updrafts. But they are able to fire very evenly because of an absurb amount of pressure from very high flow blowers.
If/when you upgrade the hardware on the kiln, using a forced air burner will give you a lot more control. Sounds like you're already very much on the right track by researching Ward.
A couple of Northern NJ Resources for you!
Also try your local college, if you have a community college they might have ceramics courses or maybe continuing ed. You might be able to swing a deal with a local potter where they teach you and provide you with studio access in return for your working around the studio for them. It usually involves cleaning, kiln loading/unloading (depending on the potter) and various other tasks. So if you have office skills or web skills that are of use you might be able to trade on those as well.
For magazine, Ceramics Monthly will be suggested lots but also American Craft is another one you should look into. Books are a huge range and it all depends on what you want to learn about. Books on kilns, glazes, pots, etc etc. You might want to start with something such as The Big Book of Ceramics It will provide you an excellent overview of pottery and historical context which will help you understand why you are doing what you are doing :)
If I think of anything else, I will post a msg here for you :)