The best Power Converters: Reddit reviews

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Same here with a converter And came with small adapters for all scenarios. Love this thing. 20+ countries 4 continents and makes you a hero at the airport where everyone is sharing one outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Universal-Converter-Charging-Worldwide/dp/B01E140XWA

I've had success driving everything off a single power source by putting a voltage regulator in front of the arduino and any other electronics, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Valefod-Efficiency-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B076H3XHXP/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=Voltage+Regulator&qid=1644473369&sr=8-9. I wasn't having much luck with capacitors or other simple filtering circuits.

i actually found this one - overall its the same weight as the stuff i have but more convenient maybe?

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/PowerPort-Charger-Charging-MacBook-Laptops/dp/B083LK6KMV/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=anker&qid=1619872342&refinements=p_89%3AAnker&rnid=669059031&s=ce-de&sr=1-16

I don't see misspellings but it could still be a good fake, no way to tell really with just looking at it, if you wanna play it safe buy another, or get an Anker brand one as they are good quality too https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083LK6KMV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QR8GPBMKYX9ZZQY479QB

• Microfiber towels suck. For most trips towels suck, you really only need one if camping or doing van-life or something like that, in which case microfiber is my pick.

• Too large of a backpack in general, 40L is too excessive to me and I am not someone who is snobby and always trying to decrease the size of my backpack. 40L is just too big to get around with, and if you pack it full its going to be too heavy anyways. Around 30L makes more sense, less if the whole trip is in a warm climate.

• It's not really a regret per-se, but I regret that noise cancelling earbuds were not really available until more recently. I like the over the ear bose headset but its too big. Now thats replaced with a small little set of earbuds that work pretty well (only downside is battery).

• Carrying a universal outlet adapter block. Too bulky and sometimes don't fit in outlets due to it being a big block. Now I only carry small adapters I will actually need like these and carry a single charger that can charge everything I own like this

Get a line out converter. Splice it into the radio harness and gives you rca outs. Just find one on Amazon with good reviews.

Edit : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Llk-ub0FVZFK0

Check this out

https://www.amazon.com/Rockstone-Power-Voltage-Transformer-Converter/dp/B00CLYFNU0/

This thing. There's a few different brands but as near as I can tell they're exactly the same. Heavy thing too. I don't know what it would be on Korean Amazon but you're looking for a 'step down voltage converter' in English. There's smaller profile ones too but given the resistors involved in making the magic happen, I'm not sure how reliable they are.

hi, sure! I used a cheap generic "Buck Converter DC DC Step Down" referred in the amazon listing as MP1584EN, that takes max 24V IN (so we should be within the range even on charging phase) and lowers it down to 3.3v needed to run safely the esp8266.

amazon link: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

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on my module i have a screw for selecting the desired voltage output, you have to be very accurate, slights movements of this screw cause big changes in output, but with some patience and a multimeter you should be able to set it up for your desired OUT value.

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as for your LDO attempt: i don't know which model you used but if it gets hot it's either too much voltage IN, hence the lowering process produces too much heat or too much amperage to sustain. Check the datasheets if you remember which model you used

This one should work well, the Move requires a specific current and voltage, one of which is the 15V 3A which this supports

Na, I just came up with my own plan as I went.

Just about any 5volt buck converter will do the job, just get one with enough amps. I think the built-in usb provides ~600ma, I got one that outputs 3amps from a source voltage of 6-18 and I think it cost like four bucks, I bought a pack of 5 though as I use them for all sorts of projects. You'll power it from a constant 12volt supply, which I just piggybacked from the 12volt accessory socket. I also put in a 12v regulator between the 12 tap and the buck converter, just to ensure a clean steady 12v source to power the buck.

As far as wiring, that wasn't too bad, just find the four wires for the usb plug, cut the 5v pin so you only power the usb from the buck, but tie all the grounds together to serve as reference ground for the buck.

If you want to support fast charge, there are a bunch of premade circuit boards and reference designs, but I didn't bother on mine. I used to get the "your device is charging slowly" notification all the time with my pixel, now charges perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/MP1584EN-DC-DC-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI

These are bucks I bought. Do make sure you adjust these property before you plug in something expensive like your cell phone...

According to the data sheet, it has a switching power supply which can handle between 100-240V, so it can use either European or American plug sockets.

Is the power cord detachable? If it is just use a regular US power cord. If not, it looks like a type E or F socket and can be used with any C, E, or F socket. That just means any western european country adapter except for the UK. Since it has a switching power supply, you'd only need the physical adapter and not a transforming power supply. They're cheap - you can get them for a few bucks like these ones.

I think you'd be better off with just getting a new power cord though. Is it a standard one?

If you are happy to charge your win off it and not expecting to play and charge at the same time, then that will be fine. If you want to play and charge at the sane time you will need one like this

The power supply for the amp seems like it is specially made for the device it goes with. It looks like it has two 14 VAC outputs and one 6 VAC output. You would need to plug the amp power supply into something like this:

Voltage converter

Keep in mind that even if you get a converter like that the power supply for the amp may be damaged. You can get one and try it though.

What this guy said.

The adapter should read “Input: 100-240V 50-60Hz” This means that it is capable of being powered from any wall outlet that supplies between 100 and 240 volts at 50-60Hz, which is basically everywhere. All you need is a simple plug adapter that allows you to plug it into a US-style socket. Something similar to this(this is a double pack but you only need one): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077W89DK1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_HfWWFbG009SDF

Also, try contacting Harley Benton and see if they’ll ship you a new adapter that has a US-style plug. Worst they can say is no, and it won’t affect your ability to use the power supply at all.

Buck converters (which only drop voltage, unlike buck-boost conveters) are super cheap; here's a suitable 6 pack for $8 on Amazon. They'll be lighter and smaller than even a stack of coin cells, and won't require you to open your blaster to change them out.

You could also get fancy with this one for $10 that can double as a voltage meter for your lipo.

If you don't mind waiting, you could probably find something even cheaper on Aliexpress.

Worse-case scenario, you can just buy something like this, a 110v to 220v step-up transfomer. The one in that link is pretty heavy duty at 500W, there are smaller/neater ones available so pick whichever one fits your power needs.

I needed something similar for my US-bought amp in the EU, though in that case it was a step-down transformer.

Both the cords say 125v.

The washer cord says 7A the dryer cord says 15A.

I plugged both of them into my American (120volt) outlet and they start up and everything is fine.

My concern is if I use them for extended periods as a daily washer dryer It may fry the appliances.

Looking at washer sticker it reads: 100v / 50/60hz / 340/400W

The dryer sticker reads 100V/ 1275W / 50-60hz

Hows this transformer? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLYFNU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3MUsFb4ZE4XMP

Or this one looks better? More accurate? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CY8HDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FWUsFbP8NDKH3

Thanks for the help!!

i went with 12v fans instead of 24v (couldn't find 24v noctua) and used buck converters from amazon in between. it required just a little soldering (i cut the existing fan wires and soldered them to the buck, then cut the new fan wire and soldered it to the output). saved a few bucks and it's much quieter.

did this with the main board fan as a test and it worked great. the buck converters came in a 5 pack from amazon so i need to do the power supply fan next and if it's still loud then the hotend fan.

buck converters: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI

12v dc fan i used, quieter than noctua based on the dB rating: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZB7TD4G

this fan is 3 pin but you only need power and ground, the 3rd pin is for speed and can be left disconnected.

Not that I know of, you could build it with a bit of soldering though. You need a 5V buck converter that can step down voltage from the 12V rail to 5V and wire the 5V to the 12V with the converter inbetween. It should then be able to draw the power of the 12V rail too. You can buy the converter at amazon for example. If somebody has more knowledge about electronics please correct me if this is not correct! Definitely get a 2nd opinion.

I love experimenting like this, but this isn't going to work you need to run some kind of amplifier or something called a line converter, this one is by pac but it will do the conversation for you.

That said, I don't know how rca cable's work, but I'm guessing the inner core is positive and the outer is negative

Personally I would run 3x18650 for this project. When fully charged they are 4.2 volts. 12.6V will probably be fine for the light and hopefully it will keep on running down to 10V when the batteries are mostly dead.

Otherwise you'll want to use 4x18650 and a cheap buck converter to step the 16V down to 12V.

edit: To clarify don't buy any 18650 batteries from amazon. It is too easy for fakes to be commingled into the product stream. I have a list of legit cells stickied at 18650masterrace.

Youll either need a Line Out Converter or a new stereo to be able to hook up the amplifier. A line out converter is going to be cheaper, when i got my first sub/amp i ordered the PAC SNI-35 off amazon, never got a chance to use it because i got whatever junk they sold at walmart instead but it did the trick.

Id say go with a Line Out for now and just keep your eye on craigslist for a cheap new headunit because thats probably going to have higher quality pre-amp outputs that you need for the amp than a line out that isnt $100. Plus a new headunit comes with all sorts of goodies like bluetooth, USB, aux, and satellite radio that you wont have in your audi.

Hell yeah. I have DB6501's in my H3 with a fosgate r250-4 and they are surprisingly able to keep up for the most part with my 144db bass. If you can find out which speakers in the vehicle are allowing he bass to travel through them, you would be perfectly fine using a high to low level converter from those two speakers and hook it up to any amp you want that can power a sub.

Buck Converter my friend, here are some cheap and effective ones: https://www.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=6PGK84S1X0Q4&keywords=buck%2Bconverter&qid=1670461116&sprefix=buck%2Bconverter%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3&th=1

Here is a basic one, it's a buck converter so is a step-down SMPS

https://www.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=buck%2Bconverter&qid=1670733516&sr=8-3&th=1

That's what you find with buck converter on Amazon product search. Of course you can search for the other topologies - boost and buck/boost, for converters that can go up, and down/up, respectively.

Not that Amazon is the ideal place to buy these things but it's easy and the stuff seems OK if you derate it by like 80%.

https://www.amazon.com/Unidapt-Europe-Quality-Adapter-Converter/dp/B077W89DK1/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=YRSYKMX7J6G7&keywords=euro+to+us+plug+adapter&qid=1670610376&sprefix=euro+to+us+plug+%2Caps%2C4134&sr=8-3

Just put this type of adaptor on there. Bada bing

> Gotta believe that the internal electronics and LCD are not running at ~50 volts.

Yeah, I don't know if the displays are fed the full 50v or if there's a stepdown in the controller. But you're right, the display is probably running off something much lower.

> Do some buck converters have auto-power-down if no load is present at power up? They obviously need to provide some power to those pins just to detect that a USB load is present.

After the capacitors are charged in a buck circuit, it stops drawing current. There's slight leakage which is the quiescent current, that is usually a few milliamps which is the equivalent of a few small LEDs.

For example this buck on Amazon has a 7.8ma quiescent current, and if you remove it's status LED it drops to 6ma. So it's quiescent current is the equivalent of 3 small surface mount LEDs. If you hooked this buck up to the RadRunner's 672Ah battery, it would last 9 years, 304 days, 17 hours, and 50 minutes.

Oh no. More like this this Any screen will draw a lot of power. Then put a 10ohm resistor on the output and your good to go. Setting it to 12.4 or 12.5 might be even better

> The heat dissipators supposedly hold to 1.5A, but when we plug a phone or tablet, at 0.5A it overheats

It's true the 7805 regulator has a maximum current rating. And, you are not exceeding that. But, you also have to worry about the power being lots in the regulator.

Since you're in an automobile, I assume the input voltage is 12v. The regulator is dropping 12v or more down to 5 volts. Power is voltage times current, so the 7 volts being lost in the regulator times 0.5 Amps is 3.5W.

Those little heat sinks are not sufficient to dissipate 3.5W without overheating.

Linear regulators like the LM7805 are inexpensive, but they are not good for large voltage drops at even a moderate current like 0.5A.

I suggest using a 'buck converter'. They are very inexpensive:

10 for $15: https://smile.amazon.com/Zixtec-LM2596-Converter-Module-1-25V-30V/dp/B07VVXF7YX/

packaged in a module with dual USB out: https://smile.amazon.com/outstanding-Converter-Module-Regulator-Double/dp/B07T2YFG9M/

idk how well this will work but you will need one of these and don't put it on AFCI breaker.