Tell the electrician that you want 3 to 5 30-amp 240-volt breakers installed with one L6-30R receptacle running off of each breaker. Then buy these 240 volt PDU’s and some of these C13 power cords for your rig power supplies. You’re all set.
This 240 volt setup will double your capacity and make your power supplies more efficient.
I can see you have received adequate help on the PC side, now onto the electrical side. I had to get an electrician in to install a 30a breaker because I am a crypto miner. They installed a 250v outlet and a 30a breaker. 30amps x 250volts=7500watts of power which is what your gonna need. So call up a licensed reputable electrician and have them install the breaker and install a 250v nema l6 30p outlet. Then grab a PDU suitable for that. I recommend this one from tripplite. In total your talking around $1000 and even more if installing inside a finished house.
I had 240v/30a run in my garage and use this. Has 20 outlets.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the best, most programmable option:
https://smile.amazon.com/Web-Power-Switch-Pro-Model/dp/B0765NCB2L/
It's rock-solid, supports a pile of protocols for remote control and is also capable of monitoring the internet connection and do all kinds of sequences in response to a connection issue.
I have 2 I use on my whole networking gear closet to be able to reboot things remotely.
Yea this is about as far as I got. But I don't need so many outlets just 30amp with a few..vertical mount would be nice but I guess I'll have to go with the one posted above that's a server mount type.
Tripp Lite Metered PDU, 30A, 30 Outlets (6-C19 & 24-C13), 208/240V, L6-30P, 10 ft. Cord, 0U Vertical Rack-Mount Power (PDUMV30HV) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_XBWR7J7VVAB8ER3RND0Y
There are devices similar to this: https://amazon.com/MSNSwitch-Internet-Enabled-Remote-Switch/dp/B081TKJJBS
You can program this to reboot one connected device if it is not 'responding' and the two plugs can be staggered to allow one device to connect to a network.
https://www.amazon.com/Web-Power-Switch-Pro-Model/dp/B0765NCB2L
Not the same price but a lot more configurable using a lot of different protocols.
And it has a "restart" manual command :-)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0765NCB2L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I went with this as i wanted something not web based, mountable to the back of my TV stand, and had a few ports so that i can plug in most of my home audio stuff and my modem.
My ISP likes to knock me offline in a way where my internet connection drops BUT my modem doesnt actually go offline. Only forcing the modem to reboot brings me backonline.
I was able to use the above and set up a ping to google for that port and now my modem reboot as needed.
I think - and Im not an electrician - that US code allows for 4 wire runs to distribution equipment that uses the neutral for low voltage plugs and the two phases for high voltage plugs. You could always wire it yourself that was inside the rack. (As long as the breaker isnt a GFCI). The hazard of course is they often use the same plug like a C14 on the PDU and are labelled 110/220. Otherwise you could just wire two runs and have one 220 PDU and a 110 PDU.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A
Ebay has lots of old and interesting PDUs pulled from old enterprise racks that cost much less than this link though. It's worth a look if cost is important.
You can use this to possibly automate the turning on of the switch when the batteries are good and or time passes to turn the server outlet on...
There's a lot of smart outlets that just plug in that work with Alexa. Also power strips like
Since you're not using a motherboard with OOB management, One option would be a network connected power strip or smart outlet. Many consumer motherboards have a setting to automatically boot back when power is restored after a power failure so you could just kill the power remotely and then the computer would turn on when you restored power.
either a smart outlet at the low end or something like this at the high end: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039OZKPE?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_SBHJ0ZNWMV8E9GDAY88K
depends on what level of control you want.
The IoT world is FULL of cheap remote control outlets.
Then there are:
to things like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Switched-Rack-Mount-PDUMH30HVNET/dp/B0013HY9E2/ref=sr_1_4
I went ahead and bought the radio you were talking about and this power supply.
Will this one work? I assume I will need some kind of connector to connect the radio to the power supply. What connector would I need?
It looks like a good and cheap solution but will it work with large wires from a PDU like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053YIUPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know anything about electrify but I have a handyman who could do it eventually.
Hi ThomasPancito, I appreciate the help and open to any suggestions. I’m on 240v 30 amp L630P connected to a tripp lite
PDU
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1N28WRNDYWIAR&keywords=tripp+lite+pdu+30a&qid=1648154997&sprefix=tripp+lite+pdu+30%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-3
I use these at work to reboot cable modems automatically if the internet drops for more than a minute or so. It saves my techs from having to drive an hour to a branch office only to power cycle a cable modem in the networking closet. It works via ethernet, not WiFi. A little pricey though.
https://www.amazon.com/MSNSwitch-Internet-Enabled-Remote-Switch/dp/B081TKJJBS/
This is not suitable for 12VDC electronic circuits - it is only intended for halogen lights. It looks to me that the output is 12VAC not DC. You would be better off with something like a 30 AMP 12VCD power supply like this: [Pyramid PSV300 Heavy-duty 30 Amp Switching Power Supply ] https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000NPT4TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I use.
PLEASE do yourself a favor and get all 240 volt, 30 amp breakers. You can always replace the breakers with regular 120v if you want to use them fore something else besides mining later. I had a dedicated 200 amp panel that has six 30amp/240v breakers. Those take up 180 amps. the last i just have a 20amp/120v breaker for the fans i use on my rigs (box fans).
Here's a fantastic PDU that works extremely well with 30 amp receptacles.
I'm using the metered 30 outlet and metered 48 outlet. I bought the 48 outlet version only because I didn't know to go right to Tripp Lite's site right away. The metered 30 outlet is the sweet spot since it's 240 volt and there are two banks on the PDU that can handle 15 Amps. There's also the screen that can monitor the amperage, which is great since you don't want to go farther than 12 amps per bank. Once I hit the magic 12 on each bank, that PDU is maxed and I move on to the next one. Here are links to both Amazon and Tripp Lite for the PDU that I use:
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Vertical-Rack-Mount-PDUMV30HV/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=YHFNPGSFOEMV&dchild=1&keywords=tripp+lite+30+amp&qid=1635714202&s=electronics&sprefix=triplite+30amp+%2Celectronics%2C79&sr=1-1
Tripp Lite: https://www.tripplite.com/5-5-8kw-single-phase-metered-pdu-208-240v-outlets-6-c19-24-c13-l6-30p-10ft-cord-0u-vertical\~pdumv30hv
I hope this helps!
This is what you need.
Universal Compact Bench Power Supply - 30 Amp Regulated Home Lab Benchtop AC-to-DC Converter w/ 13.8 Volt DC 115/230V AC Switchable, Screw Type Terminals, Cooling Fan - Pyle PSV300 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPT4TK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZZDTTAM7GZB2FAVVWDSP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use something similar, same idea, just less outlets.
Tripp Lite Metered PDU, 30A, 18 Outlets (16 C13 & 2 C19), 208/240V, L6-30P, 12 ft. Cord, 2U Rack-Mount Power, TAA (PDUMH30HV) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053YIUPK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_A2M74J5HZQADG96NF48T
No complaints here.
It's a Tripp Lite 30 Amp 240 Volt PDU. So it can handle 5760 watts safely. Here are some links to the PDU:
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Vertical-Rack-Mount-PDUMV30HV/dp/B0012VN0I0/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=YHFNPGSFOEMV&dchild=1&keywords=tripp+lite+30+amp&qid=1635714202&s=electronics&sprefix=triplite+30amp+%2Celectronics%2C79&sr=1-1
Tripp Lite: https://www.tripplite.com/5-5-8kw-single-phase-metered-pdu-208-240v-outlets-6-c19-24-c13-l6-30p-10ft-cord-0u-vertical\~pdumv30hv
I am a bit confused by your setup. Is this a home network? Is it an enterprise setup?
Your title asks about routers yet your text only talks about servers.
Do you have redundant internet connections? Multiple routers? Failover? High Availability servers?
If you have a single internet connection and a single router and are worried about one server going bad and needed to be rebooted, just install the VPN server on the router. No need for another server.
There is a huge difference between having a password and being secure. VPN servers are security hardened and tested to resist attacks. They have a tiny attack surface. OTOH, most services that are supposed to run on a LAN are not nearly as secure, come down with security exploits on a regular basis and are generally built for convenience, not security.
I am pretty sure enterprise users of OOB services run those on separate networks altogether so that common (trusted) users on the general network don't have access to them.
BTW, I am not sure what you are trying to do exactly, but if it's to reboot a machine when it stops responding, you'll find programmable PDUs like this guy that can power cycle a machine controlled remotely or have various types of tests decide to power cycle said machine. They are meant to reboot network infrastructure, but can work just as well with servers.
https://www.amazon.com/Web-Power-Switch-Pro-Model/dp/B0765NCB2L
Yea I'm now looking more at this one
Tripp Lite Metered PDU, 30A, 18 Outlets (16 C13 & 2 C19), 208/240V, L6-30P, 12 ft. Cord, 2U Rack-Mount Power, TAA (PDUMH30HV) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053YIUPK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_DAWXG1E54AKB45ZAJCZM
Or this one
Tripp Lite Basic PDU, 30A, 20 Outlets (16 C13 & 4 C19), 200/208/240V, L6-30P Input, 15' Cord, 1U Rack-Mount Power, 5 Year Warranty (PDU1230) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8215Q0RBBA3Z6EQ98T2S?psc=1
There may be cheaper ones but I prefer it sooner than later and I like the idea of it being metered.
I bought this one. Price on Amazon fluctuates quite a bit but I snagged mine for 195 about three weeks ago.
Tripp Lite Basic PDU, 30A, 20 Outlets (16 C13 & 4 C19), 200/208/240V, L6-30P Input, 15' Cord, 1U Rack-Mount Power, 5 Year Warranty (PDU1230) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_EDBNR8SCRF8RV22DJWH6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Similar device. I was using these before getting a UPS. CyberPower CPS1215RMS Basic PDU, 120V/15A, 12 Outlets, 15ft Power Cord, 1U Rackmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00077INZU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_WX8SK1RMXWAPMS9RTW37
NO!
If you're in the US, call an electrician. Tell him/her that you need a 240V (or 220V) 30A circuit installed that terminates into a L6-30R receptacle that you can plug one of these PDUs into:
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A) (or similar spec PDU)
Also, buy a few of these 14/3 AWG C14-to-C13 power cables - one for each miner power supply input:
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085CE9O8)
... and use them to connect your PSUs to the PDU. 1 in each bank.
Always observe the 80% rule (Google it).
That's it! Good luck.
Ah gotcha! I'm using 2 30amp PDUs all running from 30 amp/240v power. I'm using ones that are switched so i can monitor the amperage, and i have one that's 30 outlet, and another that's 48 outlet. I only got the 48 outlet though since the 30 outlet was out of stock. Here's the link to the one I use and reccomend!