It's not a standard screwdriver, you'll need a torx TR9 security screwdriver I believe, they are cheap. I have heard of people using small flat heads and having success but for best and easiest results get the torx. I clean my PS4 every 6 months it's a launch day console and still pretty quiet.
I bought this set for 15 bucks a few years ago love it comes in handy for electronics and small screws Amazon link.
I had success using the guide referenced here by u/BooB398, but honestly the majority of the dust buildup was along the side vents which I cleaned with Q-tips and did not require any disassembly. Also make sure you get the TR9 Torx Security bit if you are going to get in there (I ordered a kit on Amazon for like 14 bucks [link])
Impact screwdriver. Note: I'm thinking the one that you hit with a sledge, not the one you'd use to install drywall screws or something..
This is one of many examples. Be aware that they can also usually be used for TIGHTENING, so make sure it's set right before whacking it.
Also comes in handy for removing Honda brake rotor screws!
It you are mechanically inclined, brakes are an easy way to save money. Watch a video for your specific car before attempting though. Some times that rotor is held on with the rusted phillips screw from hell, and you don't want to attempt removing that without the right impact tool.
I'm gonna be that guy...
Buy a proper set of cutters/strippers and a decent portable screwdriver set...Wera do a great one
I also have a leatherman Wave and Surge and barely touch them compared to the above.
I think we're talking about an impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer. Like this. Not sure what kind of a bit you would use, though. Maybe a torx, one size up, like someone else on this thread mentioned.
Pentalobular. I can recommend a really good screwdriver set that will let you open up almost any electronic ever. I got it on Amazon Canada, hopefully they'll have it on your site. When I bought it a year ago, I got it for $13 shipped.
My only negative is that the tips are not magnetic. Try finding one with magnets inside the drill heads, it'll make it easier to lift screws out. You'll be just fine without magnets; it's just a convenience factor
You need a ratcheting screwdriver set like this.
Heating the screw with a soldering iron first will often help loosen it up especially if threadlocker was used on the screws. For stubborn ones I have one of these. It's a hand impact driver that turns the screw when you hit with the hammer. It's probably in every motorcycle mechanic's toolbox.
Phillips screws are sized as : PH#
PH2 is a "regular size" phillips screw. PH1 is a smallish phillips screw. PH0 is probably the size you're looking for - small electronics and such. PH00 and PH000 are smaller than PH0, but are not that common unless you're taking apart pretty small electronic components. PH3 is a "big" size that's used for commercial door hinges and stuff like that.
I'd recommend getting some sort of small screwdriver bit set. The Tekton brand "Everybit" sets are good sets that are inexpensive. This one will suit your needs for a reasonable price.
DO NOT USE WD-40, i made that mistake. It has too much residue buildup and not for oiling. Use Superlube or anything that is strictly PTFE
Note, the DRZ doesn't use phillips head screws, they are JIS screws. They're just different enough from phillips head that when you use a phillips head screw driver they are really prone to stripping the head. Especially if the screw is relatively snug. Investing in a set of JIS screwdrivers to work on the DRZ is really worth it.
Otherwise I've had really good luck using a manual impact driver (like this) with a phillips bit.
This, except don’t be afraid to soak for longer - even a day or two. Just keep hitting it with penetrating fluid fluid every couple hours and let it soak overnight. When you’re ready to remove them try something like this. It’s an impact driver you strike with a mallet.
Source: I wrench on a lot of shitbox cars
This is why I hate poly bushings. You gotta grease them like a pig at a county fair.
Get one of those spray cans of White Lithium grease and some Super Lube and just soak everything. You might have to take apart some of the suspension to get at the offending areas.
If there are grease points, get Super Lube in a cartridge and have a dedicated grease gun for it.
If you have patience and a steady hand, I'd say try to repair it. You can likely find the parts you need on Amazon and tutorial videos online. I've had to repair the R-button and control stick on my 3DS on two separate occasions. It was easier to do than I expected and, overall, much less expensive than getting a new system. The only other thing you would need is a precision screwdriver kit. I purchased this one for the job.
There are several other kits on Amazon that are almost identical around the $10.00 mark, I've been using this one for ages. Still a good price for a solid kit, but nothing to jump at.
Not bad, its actually an old, simple design for a ratcheting wrench. Still popular because its cheap but does the job. Here's a very popular one on amazon:
But yes, using bit ratchets is far better than allen/hex keys.
For future reference (if you're in the USA at least), use Superlube. It's great at most temperatures and is food grade (don't go actively eating the stuff though).
Sold out, Amazon is an option - anyone find anything else? A kit with all this stuff would be nice but Amazon is only showing me T9 rather than the TR9 when it comes to the kits they sell
Edit: bought this bad boy
Impact screw driver, it's a tool you put a bit in (i.e Phillips or torx in BMW's case) set the direction, and give it a whack with a hammer. 99% of the time the rotor carrier screw comes loose. Here's one on Amazon
Big tip - only cars with wheel studs (Germans and now FCA vehicles) need the screw re-installed.
Domestic and Japanese using wheel nuts, use the screw to hold the rotor in place while the vehicle is being built, (so a rotor doesn't fall off the car and hit a factory worker) apart from that it doesn't really serve a purpose.
You can get away without using it on the German cars too, but you have to make sure if the bolt snapped that it's flush with the hub.
It's really annoying trying to get the stud through the wheel then the rotor and then to the hub with out the screw holding the rotor in place.
Not op, but it is not hard at all. Just takes some common sense and the proper tools. I highly recommend this pocket ratchet off Amazon. Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive [link]
I used this
Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck [link]
With this bit
Eagle Tool EA56254 Flex Shank Installer Drill Bit, Auger Style,9/16-Inch by 54-Inch, Made in the USA [link]
I drilled hundreds of holes with this setup and a corded hammer drill (overkill but it was what I have) and every hole came out great.
Milescraft makes a drill guide that essentially does just this, it works pretty well from what I've heard.
It may have gone up a little in price but it is still under $20.
ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit with Flexible Shaft, Extension Rod for Mobile Phone, Smartphone, Game Console, Tablet, PC, Blue
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive [link]
heres the set
Edit: note that it doesn’t come with a 3/16 bit
If the wrench/socket as suggested by others doesn't work, get an impact scretdriver, like this. I've removed some really knarley screws with that tool. Use it as gently as you can so you don't dent the fridge.
Wera 056490 Tool-Check Plus Bit Ratchet Set with Sockets - Metric [link]
here is a longer bit set
Wera - 5059297001 Kraftform Kompakt 62 Bitholding Screwdriver and Pouch Set, 33-Pieces [link]
The tool check + from wera is fuckin sweet. It it might be kinda big for biking.
You could mount it on the bike
Maybe in a little bag. Or just take the peices you need and have them somewhere safe
Edit: the ratchet included takes 1/4inch bits and is excellent quality. Also very cute for a tool
As others suggested, use a pick/scribe to dig the paint out. If they're in an area that can handle some pounding, sometimes you can break the stubborn ones loose with a manual impact driver.
Try different brands of screw drivers and tips. They can vary slightly from one manufacturer to another.
For pulling from a turntable or record player, I recommend this USB device.
It has a phono pre-amp built in, and also a grounding screw which is required for a turntable.
I used audacity to record the audio, and the quality was extremely good.
the backs do NOT require removal. Order a 90 degree Screw driver for 8 bucks on amazon
and get a small ratchet with 8mm socket. Took me 15 minutes to do the backs this way. No need to complicate it more then it needs to be haha.
Agreed, there is no need for big cases. I managed to fit all three fans on the front without making any mods to the case, the bottom most fan was the biggest pain to install because of the PSU shroud. I used a tool like this to get the screws in without taking everything apart.
Thank you! And I love it! I got it as a Christmas gift a couple months ago and I've used it a bunch since then. Here is the link on amazon.
You're not going to be able to play well without the trigger buttons. Aside from Navolas2's suggestion of getting a Circle Pad Pro, you could attempt to fix the triggers yourself. It's possible to buy replacement triggers on Amazon. Just make sure you're buying the right triggers for your 3DS type (for example, 3DS and N3DS triggers are different) Beside that, you'd just need a precision screwdriver set (such as this one), and then google a decent tutorial.
I had to replace both my control stick and r-trigger on two separate occasions on my N3DS . I never did an electronic repair before, but it turned out fine.
You want this [link] with a T-40 socket. You strike it with a hammer, that force turns the socket and keeps it from popping out of the bolt. Used this to pull an old Honda engine apart that was held together with Phillips bolts, no stripping.
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From the description, that looks like it would be a little thin. This one would be closer to what you're looking for.
But pretty much any food-safe, silicone-safe grease should do the job.
Lmao I don't blame you,
Why would you have one with a square drive? You could just use a normal impact gun, they're really only for Phillips head screws, mainly rotor screws for the odd time I do auto.
And absolutely. I use this kit all the time. All the heads are quality steel, I've never had a problem with it. Its the last screwdriver kit you will ever need.
Yeah I don't think either would work well. You need a lube/grease. Mine used to make the same noise and I tried "Remington oil" didn't work. I got this and haven't heard that sound in months. PTFE Grease
I'm a random person and I have a multiple sets of drivers with that screw nib. I've replaced my iPhone 6's screen 3 times and the battery once. They're really not that special. My favorite set costs less than $15 on Amazon.
Oh, totally forgot to add that section! You can use the IPA spray to defrost whatever freezes over, but as long as you do things panel by panel it's not a big deal usually. As for doors freezing shut, just grab some silicone grease and run some along the door seals. No more freezing doors!
These two things are absolutely essential and will save you hours of pain...
Though the picture looks like 1"x12" interior pine boards, I'd stick to making this with 3/4" interior sanded ply.
Probably would take two sheets by looks.
Buy a Kreg Jig Jr for like $40 (The one I got from Lowes came with 150 1.5" pocket screws free.... buy some more, you'll need em.)
Then sand and paint it. I'd also stiffen/shore up the legs with some 45" triangle pieces "glue & screwed" (as shown in the picture).
If you want "natural" then get hardwood ply and some matching 1" iron on edge veneer. (I'd also recommend a router with a flush trim bit.)
If you have access to a friend or community center wood shop, a table saw will make this much more precise. It's all a bunch of pieces the same width and a bunch of same length for the vertical pieces.
Tools needed at a minimum:
Circular Saw (Or hand saw if using pine boards)
Jig Saw or Coping Saw
Wood Glue (I'd use Tightbond 3 or Gorilla Glue)
90" Angle ruler (or t-square)
Optional: (But you won't e disappointed)
Pocket Screw Jig
Clothes Iron (if using edge veneer)
Razor knife or Router (If using veneer)
We go fuck, fuck, fuck!
Then we see if we got a similar one in the junk drawers, (well the others do, I don't keep a junk drawer, but if I have spare nuts bolts washers I throw them in my neighbors junk drawer) then we see if advance(the closest store) has a replacement on the shelf. When they don't we go to Hokel's Machine Supply, cuz they have every nut and bolt there is. But if it's very special, then we see if a dealership can get us one or the junkyard can take one from another car.
Also we try not to fuck things up. Heat or penetrating oil, hand impact driver, Mayhew shake and bake and the correct sized, six sided, socket not at an angle.
I use the recessed door sensors as well. They work great, but damn that is a tricky hole to drill! Luckily I have old-school wood doors, I’m not sure how you’d do steel or fiberglass. I found a portable drill guide indispensable for the task (Milescraft 1318 DrillMate Portable Drill Guide - [link]).
Make sure to also use a high quality grease. I believe silicone with ptfe is recommended. I apply it with a small paint brush or acid brush with short. Stiff bristles (wipe the brush between applications).
Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White [link]
Or for an oil:
Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle,Translucent white [link]
How about one of these? For $10, it is worth a punt. It would be interesting to know how you get on with it. I have no idea how Behringer make stuff so cheap but I've always found it does the job.
Get your son a decent set of precision screwdrivers and bits. This is the #1 thing you can do to encourage him. I usually buy kids a set for their birthday at some point if they're inquisitive like this. That set will be their keys to the kingdom if you do it right.
Something like this:
Or really whatever you can find or is in your price range.
A manual impact driver, place pedal securely in a vice.
Use the impact driver and a hammer, should work.
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece [link]
First off, it's gonna be kind of hard to get those out with the engine in the bike. The correct method, as taught by Motorcycle Mechanic's Institute and many manufacturer's is to use a hammer and hand impact driver with a #3 phillip's bit. It's the only way to remove those screws without damaging them or the engine.
An impact screwdriver will work great. Personally how I got that screw off was to set the seat on its side, take my stumpy screwdriver and put nearly my entire body weight on top and got it to unscrew like that.
I wouldn’t say it’s difficult… it’s just tedious. Get something like this to remove/install the screws. It’ll be pretty nearly impossible to get all the screws perfectly tight, but it’s not noticeable. Still a better route than taking off the whole bumper IMO… unless you’re really skilled with that sort of thing.
rally armors seem to be the most popular choice. they’re flexible. other brands like rokblok are stiffer. installation is straight forward but you’ll need like a bent screw driver to do it w/o removing wheels like this [link]
I recently got some official controllers with relatively tight analog sticks, so I decided to do some maintenance to keep them nice for as long as possible.
I used this video as a guide, and used this silicone grease (essentially the same as what’s used in the video).
Previously I had used white lithium grease in my n64 analog sticks. While it initially works, it quickly turns into a chalky white powder and does nothing the prevent wear and tear to the stick. I don’t recommend it, and will only be using this plastic safe grease from now on. After applying it correctly, it almost feels like a new stick.
I use this contraption with my handheld electric drill.
Personally I'd probably use a step bit. Maybe not all the way through, but they're usually a bit nicer in regards to tearout and will keep the trajectory going in the right direction. Once I got at least a little bit of depth at 18mm then I might switch over to an 18mm drill bit.
Also, maybe just buy different tuners? There's a few nice ones that would only require 14mm.
That would be fun!
Here's my wish list:
[link] TEKTON Everybit Precision Tool Kit (27-Piece) | 2830
Salmon jerky (For example, Ivy City Smokehouse Salmon Jerky)
Uncut dollar bills, perforated and bound into a notebook, as Steve Wozniak has
Kit Kat exotic flavors
Postcards and stamps
I've had luck with bolts like this using a manual impact wrench. The impact of the hammer on the wrench helps loosen the bolt. Also, you need this kind of allen wrench.
Maybe an unpopular (or at least unconventional) choice, but I’d buy this: [link]
Depending on your particular bit and brace, I’m fairly certain you could use it with it, so no need to “cheat” and use an electric drill.
Something like this will work [link]
I'm not familiar with that brand but yes, definitely use silicone grease if they recommend it. Silicone greases are probably safer as they tend to not swell (or attack) rubber.
This is what we used when I worked in a bicycle shop
Ok thanks. Would you suggest adding more grease before closing it back up? Was considering this brand unless you have a better suggestion.
I, personally, use molybdenum disulfide infused lithium stearate grease for bearings and other high shear applications. I’ve had a tube of engine assembly grease that I’ll link below that has worked great for me for a variety of these types of applications, even if it isn’t explicitly labeled as such. The other stuff that folks tend to like is Super Lube. It’s a silicone grease with PTFE, so again, a heavy grease with a slippery solid additive that will coat the bare metal. I‘ve not used the Super Lube much, so I can’t personally vouch for it, but lots of other folks swear by it. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_38?keywords=molybdenum+disulfide+grease&qid=1636294857&qsid=141-7196544-8751933&sr=8-38&sres=B085D8KFVC%2CB00MWLD2VY%2CB07B277CZ5%2CB00ICXS2OS%2CB08PTMXCJL%2CB07TNDL1HD%2CB01BSMMJ2A%2CB08Z9X7FM5%2CB004UVISZO%2CB001HWBSJW%2CB000CQ4DK0%2CB0735RLMCC%2CB000CPAEJA%2CB0083BWUYW%2CB0045NK4YK%2CB008RWA7SS%2CB00H7LPKKU%2CB006RYX0QY%2CB08ZYB2W3T%2CB00BO8A6P
This set works wonders, is the one I use
ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 60 in 1 with 56 Bits Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit with Flexible Shaft, Extension Rod for Mobile Phone, Smartphone, Game Console, Tablet, PC, Blue [link]
Thanks for that! If I could install a stainless steel rivet nut with a hand drill I was thinking of this product which straightens out your drill to a perfect angle:
Would this be a viable solution? Do you happen to know what type of drill is needed to do a stainless rivet nut if so?
Doesn't matter what kind of car it's for, wera makes some of the best tools. I keep this set in my jeep and this set in my garage.
Thanks for sharing this, i was looking for a kit to stay in the car...it's at $83 if anyone is interested [link]
>Really? I picked just the 60 degree bucking and the shop I was at just put them in without giving a alternative or a better option. He also said it was difficult to replace, it took him a 1,5 hour.
What? An hour and a half? That's absurd. If you have a barrel wrench it's five minutes, tops, to get at the hop-up. I really recommend doing that sort of work yourself; it's not hard and will help you to troubleshoot if the installation isn't perfect.
As for degree- in theory there's an optimal degree for each power level. In practice I find 70D is fine for anything up to 450FPS or so, and the stiffer material behaves more consistently across temperature ranges.
>Do you have a personal favorite?
Yup, I use Super Lube w/ PTFE. It's thick, like the consistency of solidified animal fat, but a very thin smear is all that's needed.
>The seals are okay! Almost blew out a long, lol.
Perfect. Like I said you're probably just experiencing the limitations of propane at lower temperatures. At that temperature, red gas or black gas would be the way to go, or just straight propylene if you can find it locally.
Even the Rockler one someone else linked is a bit steep at $180.
This is more my price range -
but quality wise? No idea.
But here's a knockoff of the Woodpeckers, for only $46 -
even uses Woodpeckers in part of the name.
But it's also direct from China and only has 1 rating, so, not very trustworthy.
OP, this is ancient tech, and yea it works very well for stuck/rusted fasteners.
TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 [link]
I just use a jig like this with my electric drill but I'm sure you could find a woodworking shop in your area and call them to ask if they or some shop they know would be able to accommodate you
I have one of these: Milescraft 1318 DrillMate Portable Drill Guide - Multi-Angle Drill Guide Attachment - Compatible with most 3/8 in. Drill Accessories - Self-Centering Drill Guide Base - Multi-Angle Readouts [link] it’s not perfect but decent
This is what I’m using. Not white, but that isn’t the important part.
I'll prob get downvoted for this, but for ear protection I use soft ear plugs that I get for free from work in combination with basic over-ear muffs. Depending on what I am shooting I will alterante between the 2 or use both at the same time.
Since you're buying multiple handguns, try to find a case that holds more than 1 handgun. Or get sleeves and a range bag and save the hassle. You can find cheap range bags on Amazon. Also get yourself a toolset for malfunctions, I personally have 2 of these & I highly recommend it to anyone that does their own work on their firearms.
the gamecube style sticks are actually a great solution, they're fairly cheap and work well. if they used after market n64 joysticks replacements, they're horrible. however, purchasing the replacement parts from kitsch-bent and replacing the original parts inside inside joystick yourself yields amazing end results for about $4/controller. I've repaired multiple controllers this way for myself and friends. if you go this route, you'll need to replace the bowl, gears and stick. you'll also need to lubricate the moving parts with silicone grease to ensure they move freely without wearing out the plastic too quickly. I'll add links to what you need below
Heat. Or a breaker bar and a pipe fog leverage. You have your impact gun going through an adapter. That’s going to eat up a lot of your force by rattling around at that joint.
You can also try an impact driver. They keep tension on the bolt while you hit it with a big hammer.
Maybe something like this. Works well on wood but for your case you might need to clamp it to the post with some clamps.
Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck [link]
Manual impact driver sometimes works great, you get the best downforce to prevent torque out at exactly the time you're getting max torque.
IDK how much shock this can take though.
Or [link] may be more appropriate for a low budget and it's also a basic phono stage preamp.
Or a better [link].
I've got a couple sets of screwdrivers, something like this. No more problems finding the right electronics screwdriver ;-)
As a teen, I got my GBA (which uses triwing screws) open by finding a flathead screwdriver that fit in there. Not recommended; it's really easy to strip the screwhead, damage the screwdriver, and not be able to get the screw back in all the way.
There are methods involving melting something plastic (back of a pen, for example) and pressing it into the head, but that has the potential to be messy, damage the Wii's plastic...and still not work, if the head isn't open enough to make a good impression.
You will heed a J00 screwdriver bit. I used am ORIA set to remove my screws:
I see this alot, sounds like what your after
Edit: nvm u already seen this 😂 i guess if u already seen this and im recommending it then it might be the best thing
Super lube on the lead screw.
IVY Classic 44416 1-Inch x 3/16-Inch Hex Insert Bit, Impact Plus, 1/Box [link]
HAPPY CAKE DAY! It is one of the cheap Amazon ones. It works well but the bits are not great. I have a lot of bits floating around so that wasn't too much of a concern. It mostly lives to drive a #2 Phillips on one piece of equipment I work on often.
Different kits come with different screws. Something like this should cover most/all cases.
Something like this would get you by. I used a similar set for years before upgrading to an ifixit kit.
You don't want vaseline, as it'll drip when the device heats up. You want a heat stable, non-conductive grease.
[link] is the one I used. Small amount on a cotton swab, rubbed on the drive shaft. Been perfect for months, and made a significant difference in the noise almost immediately.
It doesn't quite have the same specs as the listed grease, but that information wasn't available at the time. They seem comparable.
This is the same kind of thing. Comes with a selection of sockets, bits and a driver handle.
Vix bits are great and all, but they’re a completely different tool.
Better to compare this to a portable drill guide like this or this
Not really. You need one of these.
Insulated screw drivers, a nice big fat flat head for panel doors, few different size tweakers, hex keys, a fluke t600 or t1000, NC voltage tester, insulated needle nose, channel locks ( always good to have 2 of the same size) and crimpers. the list goes on. Depends on how far your role as a tech expands. I work in a single factory and am responsible for fixing everything and anything electrical, from PLC's to the light switches, so I use way more tools than I listed. Which reminds me, this is great and super handy
also, I know you said you have a flashlight, but a headlamp will be your best friend.
Amazon sells a $34 [Milescraft 1318 Drillmate Drill Guide with chuck [link] ](drill guide) that might do it.
I just took some of those off. They were Torx 25, maybe 20.
They were extremely tight and would not budge with hand pressure. This little widget worked great.
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual... [link]
Took them off in a second.
Finding 205G2 has been kind of a pain. And when I do it seems very expensive. Is this Super Lube an adequate alternative? https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO
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Meh, been using philips on jis since I was ten, so 30 years now. Get a hammer impact driver, like this
TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece [link]
And some good screwdrivers.
I've just found one unresponsive key on my build and was confronted with this issue.
What I've took is the smaller flat head screwdriver tip of one of those kits:
And made a lever from the bottom of the switch. Thankfully the PCB was OK, a bent pin was the issue, which I've easily straightened out and reinserted.
can i use this ?
or do i have to get
You can spray it with wd-40 to help clean off old grease, dust and to displace any moisture that may cause rust. After wiping it down thoroughly you should apply a light coat of grease.
Super Lube Silicone Grease is always my go to for most applications from 3d printers to automobiles to airsoft guns. Just be very light with it’s application... you don’t need much on the lead screw.