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Deep cycle marine batteries. They make these for solar/off-grid setups too.
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK
Edit: I'm not speaking to the quality of the battery I posted above, I simply searched for deep cycle battery on amazon and took the first result as an example. There are a ton of brands out there, so you'll have to do some research on which battery is the best, unless someone on here can share some of their own experiences.
Instead of utilizing the common Li-Ion 18650 chemistry, find some LiFePO4 cells instead, as they are better suited for a UPS (and are actually frequently used as lead-acid replacements).
As an example, this 12v battery is in the same form-factor as a standard UPS battery, but utilized the LiFePO4 chemistry cells.
The reason why LiFePO4 is a better lead-acid replacement is because of their high discharge current, high charge/discharge cycle count, and because of their "minimum discharge voltage = 2.5 V, working voltage = 3.0 ~ 3.2 V, and maximum charge voltage = 3.65 V" (source). This means that a 4s configuration of LiFePO4 cells would have a minimum voltage of 10V, and a max voltage of 14.6v, which is very close to the specifications of lead-acid cells.
>some light use.
What do you mean by this? What have you been running? You mentioned a /3000 Watt/ inverter. This is not 'light use' for those batteries if you are using anywhere near even half the power rating of that inverter.
If you need a 3000 Watt inverter on 12 volt batteries, that's 250 Amps draw if you're maxing that inverter out. That's insane.
But, I get it, RV is 12-volt, you can't fit a large battery bank (physical size) because obvious reasons, etc. ...
You need Lithium batteries to take that kind of abuse in the form factor you want. Go buy two 100 Ah, 12-volt Lithium (LiFePO4) 'drop in replacement' batteries from a company like Battleborn or similar. It'll cost you a pretty penny but you can just have the two in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and drop them in as a replacement. And there will be a warranty, too. :) They'll likely fit with little to no adjustment in your current battery box as well. :) (Measure to make sure before you buy!)
https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Volt-Deep-Cycle-Battery/dp/B06XX197GJ/
Note, I do not work for or represent the company who produces these batteries, nor do I own any, but others seem to have liked them just fine, and LiFePO4 with built-in safeties is what you want.
Note, you will have to make sure you charge controller is set properly as per the manufacturer's recommendations.
​
>Should we disconnect the controller when we remove the panels?
No need. But disconnect the panels first if you are going to remove the batteries to replace them.
​
>The controller has been on during the night and showing a quick loss of % when it gets dark.
Normal. Renogy's battery meter is a voltage based state of charge on those ones. It's complete BS. It means nearly nothing. It generally treats 'float' as 'full', so of course when the sun goes down it drops like a rock.
Started out with this 7ah battery which would keep the Garmin powered all day. Now it's powered off the trolling motor battery, Dakota Lithium 54ah (weighs almost nothing). Still gives me a full day out on the water. The biggest hassle is cable management, I wish they had shorter setups specific to kayaks.
SLA Replacement Battery for 12V 7AH- SLA Battery Piranha MAX 160 Fish Finder- Chrome Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LO9XHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JEGZW9MYKACY9A8WK4Y7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I paired it with the Garmin Striker 4 and I hardly ever charge my battery.
Then I slapped it one of these bad boys to make it waterproof.
Elephant B095 Kayak Battery Box Waterproof Battery Enclosure for Powering GPS, Fish Finders, Led Lights, Aerator Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S3FW2M1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8NPG8VBSWF623F81482S
And for the Li-Ion battery (easier to leave without constant charging + weight savings): also on Amazon
I have this yuasa YTX12-BS after my 7 year old motobatt died and it's running great. Only thing is it's kind of expensive now on Amazon. I bought mine for ~$67 just about a year ago.
If you have some cash to spend, you can also look at lithium batteries. They're smaller and weigh a fraction of the regular batteries, but are costly.
You probably want a 12V DC to DC charger, though they are rather expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Tecmate-Optimate-TM-500-12-8-13-2V-LFP-Lithium/dp/B011J76CFE
Power it with any big 12V battery. LiFePO4 would be easiest to carry.
Here's the battery that I purchased x2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RFXHYK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
You don’t want to buy that battery, if it’s for RV use you should get something designed for RVs, like this:
Very high quality, designed for RV use with 12v charging systems and 12v draw. They are going to be a lot easier to adapt for RV use. You can still use them in parallel etc.
No, no, no!
A standard marine deep cycle battery is still using lead acid technology. Its honestly terrible and very expensive
Only half of the amp hours are usable, still.
So a 200ah results in only 100 being usable
This renology 200ah battery is $379. He would need 3 of them. They are also 129 pounds each. Thats almost 400 pounds
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Self-Discharge-Discharge-Appliances-Maintenance-Free/dp/B075RGX1WR/
Alright so here's the math you need to do.
Find the wattage that you cpap machine needs to run. It should be listed on the device. For this exercise we'll call it 80 watts.
Then multiply that by how long you want to run the machine. Assuming you want 10 hours of sleep. In this case you'll want 800watt hours
But you'll not find a watt hour rating on a battery. Those are measured in Amp hours. How do you convert between the two units? Easy. Watts = Volts x Amps. So if you are running a 12 volt battery, your battery will need 67 Amp hours. ( 800 Volt Amp hours / 12 volts = 67 Amp hours)
BUT, inverters aren't 100% efficient. Batteries aren't 100 % efficient and you do not want to discharger them all the way down. Since this is for life saving equipment I'd say you want a WIDE margin. If you assume an inverter is 80% efficient, and you want to leave a 15% charge in the battery, suddenly a 100AH battery is dangerously close to your power requirements with no margin for error. Since this is a life saving device you will want more. Also, all this math is for 1 night. If you are looking for multiple nights you either need to factor in charge time, or expand your battery pack.
Personally I'd start with 2 100amp hour batteries like these and do a trial run.
My buddy linked me this from what he saw in the fb group
but also they’ve been selling a limited stock of extra batteries every Monday morning until they run out like I got one a few weeks ago. U just gotta go on their webpage Monday morning and refresh on the hour to see if they added stock. I forget the exact time.
Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 200Ah, 3% Self-Discharge Rate, 2000A Max Discharge Current, Safe Charge Most Home Appliances for RV, Camping, Cabin, Marine and Off-Grid System, Maintenance-Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RGX1WR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SXQDAPM2D97SMQ6VSNV6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's the battery that I use.
RockDIG 10-Pack Guage 8-5/16 Copper Wire Lugs, Battery Cable Ends, Bare Copper Eyelets Tubular Ring Terminal Connectors with Heat Shrink(Black, Red) (10 Pack, 8 AWG - 5/16" Ring/Eye) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4C7N1G/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_941WPP5X5KY3HE1C49GT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those are the connectors that I soldered to a length of 10 gauge battery cable with an xt60 on the other end for the charger.
I use a HOTA F6 so that I can pretty much always have batteries charging.
"105Ah"
Does that mean "Amp hours"? If that's the case than a battery like this should be enough to keep me going for a few hours?
If I wanted to run the the PC+Monitor which is around 230W, it would be best to get at least 300W of solar panels, right?
Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 100Ah for RV, Solar Marine and Off-grid Applications, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JG1JH1YJKMP1E4E3C1K1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 100Ah for RV, Solar Marine and Off-grid Applications, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_9PSFJ0XAHK07P8NH20M0
If we need to go lithium that's 300-400 dollars
LOSSIGY 12 Volt 100AH Deep Cycle Lithium Ion Rechargeable Battery, The Perfect Replacement for golf cart, Trolling Motor, RV, Marine, Solar system Battery, Built in 50A BMS, 4000-7000 Cycles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093L622N9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VHD4Y4AHJFFQ4RPC57GM
Still never seen a generator that cheap
That's the one. So I can just find a 12V 100ah lead acid battery and all should be good. I don't need to worry about charger compatibility or anything? So something like this should work?
Why not use SLA or AGM batteries? Renogy (boo Amazon, I know I know) has 200Ah batteries for under $500. While they are heavy as hell (I have a set of these and have almost crushed myself being dumb transporting them on a dolly), even a single 200Ah battery would be able to power heaters and cooking devices. If you splurged on lithium based chemistry, you could do both at the same time pretty easily. As the max current draw for US outlets is around 1500W (15amps * 110v - losses), a 3000W inverter could run both simultaneously and still support a few more devices.
$500 on a 10Ah battery does seem a bit high when you can get 10x the storage plus an inverter for the same price, or 20x the storage for $150 more.
you need to find the best value in balancing your generation, usage, and storage.
Consumption: 500 watts daily = 24 hours * 500 watts = 12 kilowatt hours
Production: 6 hours * 275 watts(derating your panel because reality) = 1.65 kilowatt hours
As your setup is currently, you are set to consume more power than your single 300 watt panel is ever willing to generate. While it would work in theory; After you drain your batteries, it could take a lot of sunlight to charge back up. If it turns out you are grossly overestimating your power consumption (dc camp fridges seems to be 45 or so watts): you could generate enough power with your 300 watt panel in 4-6 hours to run a 45 watt fridge for 24 hours
a 100 amp/hour battery will store 1200 watt hours at 12 volts, which is
You're gonna want a deep cycle battery for energy storage/constant cyclinghttps://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK
I think if you take your time and do some more research, you will have off grid power at a reasonable price point. All the calculations for solar are algebra so don't let the math intimidate you.
Amazon must be dumb then, cause it says it "doesnt fit my bike" lol
Yuasa YUAM6212B YT12B-BS Battery
How bad is it to pour in the stuff, and how long will this batt last?
There are two in pieces on my profile - the pusheen one is from this book: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Leisure-Arts-307202-Alphabets-Galore/dp/1574866745/
And the other is heavily modified from the caption generator at crosstitch.com: https://www.crosstitch.com/captionmaker/text
‘Heavily modified’ is key here - whatever chart you start from you have to manually fix the ligatures and spacing to make it join nicely.
I asked my kids to choose the "happiest" colors from my stash and used them with the black.
I might go back and outline the colored words.
Lettering from this book:
The lithium batteries are usually a LOT lighter.. I mean .. here's a MASSIVE 100ah battery that's 30lbs..
https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Volt-Deep-Cycle-Battery/dp/B06XX197GJ/
Definately NOT cheap though.
https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Volt-Deep-Cycle-Battery/dp/B06XX197GJ
I was thinking 3-4 of these?
Also I would want to be able to charge via the alternator as well.
I did the math and I'll only need about 50 AH... you think this one will cover it if I stay put for a couple days?
Any 12v battery will do. You'll need a battery and a battery charger.
These are what it looks like most people are buying off Amazon:
CB CHROMEBATTERY 12V 7AH Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Battery Piranha MAX 160 Fish Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LO9XHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G5aOCbWYNMNW6
Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o8aOCb16NEBQJ
It's a 12v sealed lead acid battery from renogy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RGX1WR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I think i had a discharge because that's what it says. The error reads "battery over discharge" and so does my renogy bluetooth app.
I had it set to USER and didn’t change it for a year. Probably why my battery is dead now. I’m going to call Renogy and try to get a better answer. Just for reference I was using this battery