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Deep cycle marine batteries. They make these for solar/off-grid setups too.
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK
Edit: I'm not speaking to the quality of the battery I posted above, I simply searched for deep cycle battery on amazon and took the first result as an example. There are a ton of brands out there, so you'll have to do some research on which battery is the best, unless someone on here can share some of their own experiences.
Do you have quality lighting? If not I upgraded my halogen bulb to an LED headlight I found on amazon and it made a huge difference.
I have the same truck. I put these in, they are super bright and look great compared to stock. Also did the fog lights.
SEALIGHT 9005/HB3 H8/H11 LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNY3ZVZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Every 12 to 18 months one of my headlights on my truck would burn out. I started replacing both, but since they are always on at some level, the issue still happened. I replaced them with LEDs and am hoping I never have to replace them again. I have a Nichia H600c Mk IV Zebralight headlamp, but never considered looking for headlights for my truck. Maybe next time.
My headlights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNY3ZVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_893-FbR0DETN2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm following to see what others say.
>some light use.
What do you mean by this? What have you been running? You mentioned a /3000 Watt/ inverter. This is not 'light use' for those batteries if you are using anywhere near even half the power rating of that inverter.
If you need a 3000 Watt inverter on 12 volt batteries, that's 250 Amps draw if you're maxing that inverter out. That's insane.
But, I get it, RV is 12-volt, you can't fit a large battery bank (physical size) because obvious reasons, etc. ...
You need Lithium batteries to take that kind of abuse in the form factor you want. Go buy two 100 Ah, 12-volt Lithium (LiFePO4) 'drop in replacement' batteries from a company like Battleborn or similar. It'll cost you a pretty penny but you can just have the two in parallel (+ to +, - to -) and drop them in as a replacement. And there will be a warranty, too. :) They'll likely fit with little to no adjustment in your current battery box as well. :) (Measure to make sure before you buy!)
https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Volt-Deep-Cycle-Battery/dp/B06XX197GJ/
Note, I do not work for or represent the company who produces these batteries, nor do I own any, but others seem to have liked them just fine, and LiFePO4 with built-in safeties is what you want.
Note, you will have to make sure you charge controller is set properly as per the manufacturer's recommendations.
​
>Should we disconnect the controller when we remove the panels?
No need. But disconnect the panels first if you are going to remove the batteries to replace them.
​
>The controller has been on during the night and showing a quick loss of % when it gets dark.
Normal. Renogy's battery meter is a voltage based state of charge on those ones. It's complete BS. It means nearly nothing. It generally treats 'float' as 'full', so of course when the sun goes down it drops like a rock.
I got the day lighter "knockoff" off amazon or eBay for like $60.00 with shipping. Pretty Easy to install looks good and doesn't cost $500.00.
Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MBg9GsV58RfaJ
Comes in black or chrome.
Edit my bike is a
2013 forty eight
I am going to assume you are asking about it and if it is worth the asking price. I went with a China knock off and I was really surprised how well it works. I got it off Amazon so if it was crap I could return it.. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUtqAbBEJNHQW
You need a wiring harness like this one: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Interface-Integrate-Amplifiers/dp/B000CE9OY2
and a headphonejack to rca Splitter like this https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B007K8RVHU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can wire everything together and it will work with the bose amp. You can also plug in an aftermarket amp.
i run this in my 2019 xl1200xs since 2019, never had an issue with it, works great. And my homie put one in his dyna also no complaints.
I went with this one for $50 from Amazon. Side-by-side, the only difference I can make out with an HD Daymaker is the little bar and shield w/ a light in the bottom-center. I've been running it for a few months now and it's a great light. Also, with Prime shipping, I had it two days after placing the order.
Just saw this on amazon and thought Of this post. Hope the link works
Wisamic 5-3/4 5.75 inch LED Headlight - Compatible with Harley Davidson Dyna Street Bob Super Wide Glide Low Rider Night Rod Train Softail Deuce Custom Sportster Iron 883-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4l3EFbNBQVMG9
Yea I hooked it up the headlights so it all turns on together. I got it off amazon here’s the link if you wanna give it a try.
Wiipro Universal led Harley... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Id highhhhly suggest changing the head lamp to the amazon daymaker. Provides a lot of extra vision and also will hopefully grab the attention of drivers to see you. You will need a different lamp housing. I did however, mash the LED bulb into the stock unit but it took a bit of effort.
For next time, something like this is a handy thing to own: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKPT1A?ref=emc_p_m_5_i
There are cheaper ones on Amazon - that was just the first one that popped up in a search.
I bought one of these (after my 12v battery died without warning):
https://smile.amazon.com/NOCO-GB20-UltraSafe-Lithium-Gasoline/dp/B015TKPT1A/r
I've never been able to actually test it so I'm just hoping that it works when needed. I keep it in the cubby in the hatch area.
I also have a ‘21 fxlrs and I bought a headlight bucket, H4 extension, and this headlight. It’s damn good too. The oem day maker is trash.
Wiipro Universal led Harley... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
baluoqi Electric Bike 1T2 Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZHYBPW7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sorry I for got it’s not a direct plug and play. You remove the original and wire in the yellow connector and it works just like it. Works with the brake handles. Super bright. Easy.
Amazon LED special. https://www.amazon.com/SUNPIE-Motorcycles-Waterproof-Shockproof-Headlights/dp/B018LXCV4U
Most of the Amazon headlight work fine for the most part.
Or hogworkz if you want something from a reputable brand. 3-5x the Amazon special price but at least you’ll have a warranty.
https://hogworkz.com/5-3-4-blackout-harley-led-headlight.html
Here's the battery that I purchased x2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RFXHYK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
You don’t want to buy that battery, if it’s for RV use you should get something designed for RVs, like this:
Very high quality, designed for RV use with 12v charging systems and 12v draw. They are going to be a lot easier to adapt for RV use. You can still use them in parallel etc.
Any chance you could elaborate on what it depends on? I ended up with these LED bulbs from Amazon and they ended up going in a 2010 Suburban.
It was a pain in the ass to change the bulbs (had to take off the front wheel liners) but I'm willing to do it again to not be an a-hole to other drivers.
Alright so here's the math you need to do.
Find the wattage that you cpap machine needs to run. It should be listed on the device. For this exercise we'll call it 80 watts.
Then multiply that by how long you want to run the machine. Assuming you want 10 hours of sleep. In this case you'll want 800watt hours
But you'll not find a watt hour rating on a battery. Those are measured in Amp hours. How do you convert between the two units? Easy. Watts = Volts x Amps. So if you are running a 12 volt battery, your battery will need 67 Amp hours. ( 800 Volt Amp hours / 12 volts = 67 Amp hours)
BUT, inverters aren't 100% efficient. Batteries aren't 100 % efficient and you do not want to discharger them all the way down. Since this is for life saving equipment I'd say you want a WIDE margin. If you assume an inverter is 80% efficient, and you want to leave a 15% charge in the battery, suddenly a 100AH battery is dangerously close to your power requirements with no margin for error. Since this is a life saving device you will want more. Also, all this math is for 1 night. If you are looking for multiple nights you either need to factor in charge time, or expand your battery pack.
Personally I'd start with 2 100amp hour batteries like these and do a trial run.
For battery charging and conditioning I use this.
They have a jump starter also.
One of those Li-ion jump start packs would work to power the release solenoid. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB20-UltraSafe-Lithium-Gasoline/dp/B015TKPT1A/
They're kind of handy to have around anyway.
Wrong link, here's the right one. I got some kind of package with the high beams, the low beams, and those fog bulbs that I accidentally linked.
SEALIGHT 9005/HB3 9006/HB4 LED Bulbs Combo Package CSP Chips 14000LM 6000K Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K43XKDF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_33RGV0TJ2N4BX9CMHHKA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Probably best to make your own. Definitely recommend getting a portable battery powered jumper so you can jump your own car in a pinch. Something like this (there are tons of them on Amazon, get one that works for you).
Then you’ll want a portable jump pack instead of a charger. Something more like this you keep it plugged in to the car so it charges while you’re driving so you have essentially a back up battery with you.
Most jump starters and chargers are universal, due to the fact that almost all passenger cars run on a 12 volt system. The main difference between the chargers is essentially the speed at which they charge. That’s the amp rating, the example you gave is a 1 amp charger which is basically a tickle charger, the slowest kind but it’s easiest on the battery. If you were dead set on something that plugs into the wall you’d want something like this a maintainer and jump starter. This one has adjustable amperage so you could trickle charge or jump start if you need to and it turn the trickle charge on and off as the battery needs hence the maintaining part, but it is quite a bit more expensive.
That’s incredibly steep considering the warranty’s only valid for the first buyer, and a brand-new R costs just $195.00 more.
Kanebilt’s headlights cost $36-
I’ve never had that kind of issue with mine. It was so ridiculously brighter than the stock, that the two are hard to compare. I found the one I bought: SUNPIE Motorcycle 5-3/4 5.75 LED Headlight for H arley 883,sportster,triple,low rider,wide glide Headlamp Projector Driving Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_R9NDWKWNCMJ1QAMYE9RY
They looked just like these. Same brand I think.
They are SEALIGHT H11 H8 H9 60W 6,000K Xenon White.
Put on a 2008 and my 2011 over a year now. No issues except what I mentioned. I guess the control module sends a pulse to the bulbs when a door is opened and the car not started for about 60 seconds. The LED's pick that pulse up. The light is nice and white, but the housings are maxed out pointing high, the beams don't shoot out nearly as far as they need to. It's a safety issue IMO.
I've considered shimming them but never got around to it. Some years you could adjust too high, but on my 2011 it could deff be higher without blinding anyone else on the road...The adjustment only goes soo high though.