Shouldn't use a metal tool could mess up the connection. They have plastic tools just for this.
Using magnetic cables also helps debris from clogging up the port.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCQRBTP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HBYD65FNN2KBC69PTB4M
I just pulled out a tiled floor in my kitchen last night. I got lucky because they stapled down a 1/4" sheet of plywood and tiled to that as opposed to nailed/screwed down concrete board. All I had to do was get my FuBar under the plywood and all of the tiles popped easily.
The real bitch with tile removal is carrying it all out to the dumpster and the chips/shrapnel. $1 psf is a bargain for the demo price. For a project as big as yours, it's something to seriously consider paying for.
You need one of these for trim : Zenith Industries ZN700001 Trim Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01572REP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IgaBFbTKXZJXC it has a built in raised bevel that effortlessly separates the trim from the wall.
I don't have a particular suggestion, but this is the sort of tool I was describing: https://www.amazon.com/Vestil-SKB-DLX-Deluxe-Pallet-Buster/dp/B00JH41U7M/ref=sr\_1\_2?dchild=1&keywords=Pallet+Tools&qid=1621021695&sr=8-2
I keep a Trucker’s Best Friend in my Jeep on left side of the driver’s side seat. Not specifically for self defense but it a useful tool. I also keep a pretty standard legal knife on my roll bar.
Last year I moved the stackable unit myself with furniture moving pads.
I used this to jack up the stack so i can slide it on:
Get one of these to remove the trim. It also pulled nails. I have one and used it on two houses now and it does wonders. Almost no broken drywall at all. One os the issues is that people caulk the top of the trim, so make sure you use a utility knife (get lots of blades) to cut the caulking along the top of the trim.
If you do anything regularly with pallets, you owe it to yourself to get one of these....
I have one and it makes taking apart pallets (without destroying the lumber) tremendously easier. I have tried most everything.. cutting, prying, etc... and this is by far the best method tool out there.
Something like this, or there are EDC options too. This might work
I wrapped a little bit of paracord around one of these little guys. Fits on a keychain or pocket watch pocket in your jeans. Love it!
Get tiny airbags https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Strong-Commercial-Professional-Inflatable/dp/B07751F8Y3/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=air+bag+to+open+car+door&qid=1666008272&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjA2IiwicXNhIjoiMy40OCIsInFzcCI6IjMuMDcifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-2 put in between doorsills pump it up and use a coat hanger to either open latch or push power window buttons.
I did an entire kitchen, using a set of these. When installing the upper cabinets, I put them on top of old cabinets or simple wood frames, then used the air bags to lift them to exactly the height I needed.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Strong-Commercial-Professional-Inflatable/dp/B07751F8Y3
I did a few things. It did eventually go away, but I still have a hard time trusting the ice. Like is this glass of ice water going to taste like ass or not. So far it hasn't. But the trust has been damaged.
I dont know what one "fixed" it, but the taste and smell has gone away.
I have something like this to lift appliances.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Strong-Commercial-Professional-Inflatable/dp/B07751F8Y3
Yes, but it was one of these cheap ones.
I got mine on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Magery-Sheet-Skin-Wedge/dp/B087ZV91PX/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1TPMRJD2ZD086&keywords=skin+wedge&qid=1663253724&sprefix=skin+wedge%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-3
Freaking awesome tool. I open a lot of electronic device cases at work and this is great
The touchscreen isn't stock, I can tell you that off the top of my head. As the Kenwood logo is plainly visible in the picture, I'd start by carefully attempting to pull the unit housing forward or otherwise get access to the wiring connections in the back. That should reveal a model number somewhere which you can then find the installation instructions and owner's manual for on the Kenwood website.
To do so remove the trim ring around the shifter by gently prying upward with a flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool at the end closest to the holding brake lever. It helps to have the brake lever as high up as it will go.
From there you can gently pull it towards you to disengage the other clips, unplug any electrical connections and set it aside.
Then you remove the larger black trim part in the same way, ensuring to unplug any electrical connectors that feed the HVAC unit
Once the lower parts are removed, remove the 4-6 Phillips head screws that are now visible, and the upper part should just pull towards you (see where the center console appears to split) bringing EVERYTHING with it.
With that information you can figure out what wires control the functions that aren't working and trace them backwards to find any damage, splits, etc.
That kind of trim is going to look (more) bad with quarter round.
I'd remove that old/dated trim, and replace with fresh clean painted trim that will better coordinate with both laminate and carpet.
Virtually any modern trim you put in will be taller, and hide any paint globbing or whatever at the top of the old trim.
If you're removing the base yourself, a trim puller spreads the prying force, making it easier to remove the trim without damaging your walls.
Means using something like this for propping open car doors. These let you put the inflatable bag between the door and the frame, giving you room to stick a hanger or hook in between in order to press the door unlock button.
Get a color matched spray $55+ or a touch up pen $15.
Alternatively you can just get a good tape line and paint it black.
Buy one of these air shims and keep it somewhere handy for next time this happens. Slip it in the door and pump it up so this doesnt happen to you or someone elses car again.
I saw a poor lady once locked out of her car at 5am when it was like 50 degrees out. There was 3 or 4 "good samaritans" trying to unlock her door. They were completely fucking up her door just like yours. Except it was worse because they were tearing up all the weatherstripping as well and the exterior moulding. I pulled up with one of these shims and a long flexible but ridgid bar i keep in the back of my car. I popped her car open in 3 or 4 mins. Almost looked like a PRO that you would think i pop cars for a living.
Wow, crown molding over acoustic ceiling tiles that's a new one to me! Why in the world wouldn't they have just used drywall and everything would be nice?
The only way to find out is to demo it, and the closet is a good test case.
Hopefully you can save the walls from much damage. Cut the caulk on the crown, and use a trim puller rather than a pry bar, it distributes the pressure and helps avoid damage. I have this one.
If you do get wall damage, and depending on how high your real ceiling is, you could consider reinstalling a larger crown to cover it.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Non-Abrasive-Spudgers-Anti-Static-Tweezers/dp/B00PHNMEMC/
Metal tools give more but leave scratches, plastic tools are gentler but disposable. This is a good skill to have, most consumer electronics, especially laptops are snapped together like this.
And/or use those inflatable lifting pillows. I have a set of these, and I've used them to position doors, kitchen cabinets, etc., by myself.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Strong-Commercial-Professional-Inflatable/dp/B07751F8Y3
I don't think that's water damage from the photos (which is a good thing), just a lot of mechanical damage. The baseboards may have been reinstalled several times.
If your walls were smooth I'd simply cut out a section and insert new drywall and tape/mud.
But with the texture, and most of it the damage being covered by baseboard so you don't need it to be too sturdy... I'd try to minimize the patching.
I'd slip some thin boards behind there adhered to the back of the wallboard with construction adhesive, and/or with screws through existing drywall where it's sound.
Then fill the hole with hot mud (the kind mixed with powder). Get the 20-minute set time stuff so you don't have to wait too long between coats.
For the first, coat, press/mix it into the crumbled edges with gloved fingers. Depending how solid things are, maybe let that set up before proceeding.
Continue filling with another coat or two, then match the texture on the top coat where it will be visible.
If I'm envisioning it correctly, only that top of the mountain hole will be visible, so if you get the texture anywhere close it should be fine once painted.
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BTW, for future baseboard removal, be sure to cut any caulk first, then use a trim removal tool to spread the pressure when prying.
I have this one, which is also available at Home Depot:
Pros around me routinely do shoe moulding rather than pull baseboard... I don't think they'd even offer the option unless specifically asked.
But yeah if you don't mind the expense and time, new baseboard is nice, especially if yours is old and beat up.
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You mentioned going fancier which is presumably taller, so if you're careful removing the old you shouldn't create any drywall work.
Cut through the caulk line and be sure the drywall paper isn't tearing upward when you pull the trim.
A trim puller is a no-brainer investment on this much trim. It spreads prying force over a larger area, so you are much less likely to crunch the drywall than with a flat wrecking bar.
This is the one I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Zenith-Industries-ZN700001-Trim-Puller/dp/B01572REP4/
They’re tiny airbags that you can slide under something and then pump up with air to lift something that’s very heavy.
They are popular and useful. Amazon sells a set of 3 for about $23.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Strong-Commercial-Professional-Inflatable/dp/B07751F8Y3
If you don't own that trim tool, but it now. It's the best . But it now.
Hmm, not sure how to do it elegantly. Perhaps the live chat on KJ's website would be helpful. They may have seen situations like this. Ideally you'd find some extra tall ceramic (not terra cotta) pot feet. Side note, you may find that an air shim would be helpful in lifting it from the bottom.
Honestly this is one of the most useful tools I own: Metal Magery Sheet Metal Skin Wedge Pry Bar Tool Door Panel and Trim Removal Tool (One Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087ZV91PX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4JXRANKYD3ZB4H5P21AK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Absolutely stupid, I agree. I have a prybar to avoid using my expensive tools. Plus the expensive ones aren’t in any way better.
Heres a link to a 5 pack for $10, but if you search prybar on Amazon there’s tons under $30
RONRONS 5 Pack Mini Stainless Steel Pocket Pry Bar Crowbar Multifunction EDC Tool Survival Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGQW814/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1KJHP41PMZNW7124X5FJ