Impact screwdriver. Note: I'm thinking the one that you hit with a sledge, not the one you'd use to install drywall screws or something..
This is one of many examples. Be aware that they can also usually be used for TIGHTENING, so make sure it's set right before whacking it.
Also comes in handy for removing Honda brake rotor screws!
It you are mechanically inclined, brakes are an easy way to save money. Watch a video for your specific car before attempting though. Some times that rotor is held on with the rusted phillips screw from hell, and you don't want to attempt removing that without the right impact tool.
I'm gonna be that guy...
Buy a proper set of cutters/strippers and a decent portable screwdriver set...Wera do a great one
I also have a leatherman Wave and Surge and barely touch them compared to the above.
I think we're talking about an impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer. Like this. Not sure what kind of a bit you would use, though. Maybe a torx, one size up, like someone else on this thread mentioned.
Pentalobular. I can recommend a really good screwdriver set that will let you open up almost any electronic ever. I got it on Amazon Canada, hopefully they'll have it on your site. When I bought it a year ago, I got it for $13 shipped.
My only negative is that the tips are not magnetic. Try finding one with magnets inside the drill heads, it'll make it easier to lift screws out. You'll be just fine without magnets; it's just a convenience factor https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need a ratcheting screwdriver set like this.
Heating the screw with a soldering iron first will often help loosen it up especially if threadlocker was used on the screws. For stubborn ones I have one of these. It's a hand impact driver that turns the screw when you hit with the hammer. It's probably in every motorcycle mechanic's toolbox.
Bolt Extractor set. worked perfectly for my snapped off exhaust studs. Maybe spray with some pb blaster/liquid wrench beforehand instead of wd.
You don't need a drill. Just notch the head as others have suggested and then use an impact screwdriver.
You need torx bits. And anything wiha is good to go. Check Amazon they have tons of wiha sets.
Wiha 79242 11 Piece Torx Bit Selector (T5-T30) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001US4RMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7S4NFWS2485JEKWK5C77?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Phillips screws are sized as : PH#
PH2 is a "regular size" phillips screw. PH1 is a smallish phillips screw. PH0 is probably the size you're looking for - small electronics and such. PH00 and PH000 are smaller than PH0, but are not that common unless you're taking apart pretty small electronic components. PH3 is a "big" size that's used for commercial door hinges and stuff like that.
I'd recommend getting some sort of small screwdriver bit set. The Tekton brand "Everybit" sets are good sets that are inexpensive. This one will suit your needs for a reasonable price.
Note, the DRZ doesn't use phillips head screws, they are JIS screws. They're just different enough from phillips head that when you use a phillips head screw driver they are really prone to stripping the head. Especially if the screw is relatively snug. Investing in a set of JIS screwdrivers to work on the DRZ is really worth it.
Otherwise I've had really good luck using a manual impact driver (like this) with a phillips bit.
WTF! My Arctis Pro (that looks to be an identical design to the 7) had regular Philips head screws. I was able to open and solder the cable and re-attach the earcup with sugru.
For these:https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Security-Torx-Bit-Set/dp/B07BKQ5237
This, except don’t be afraid to soak for longer - even a day or two. Just keep hitting it with penetrating fluid fluid every couple hours and let it soak overnight. When you’re ready to remove them try something like this. It’s an impact driver you strike with a mallet.
Source: I wrench on a lot of shitbox cars
If you have patience and a steady hand, I'd say try to repair it. You can likely find the parts you need on Amazon and tutorial videos online. I've had to repair the R-button and control stick on my 3DS on two separate occasions. It was easier to do than I expected and, overall, much less expensive than getting a new system. The only other thing you would need is a precision screwdriver kit. I purchased this one for the job.
There are several other kits on Amazon that are almost identical around the $10.00 mark, I've been using this one for ages. Still a good price for a solid kit, but nothing to jump at.
Not bad, its actually an old, simple design for a ratcheting wrench. Still popular because its cheap but does the job. Here's a very popular one on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6
But yes, using bit ratchets is far better than allen/hex keys.
If and ONLY if this is an all metal block, there is a thing called an impact driver. You basically hit it with a hammer and the result force and twisting will get screws out very effectively. I would make sure you get a good bit that fits in there well. Also exercise extreme caution, you are hammering on it. Don’t feel like you need to whale on it though.
I believe it is the Wiha 79242 Torx Set. You can pick one up on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001US4RMI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_tmzmwbRN6HMPK (On mobile, how do I link?)
Got sick and tired of cheap torx sets that twisted and bought one, it is indeed excellent. It gushes quality and has been holding up great.
Sold out, Amazon is an option - anyone find anything else? A kit with all this stuff would be nice but Amazon is only showing me T9 rather than the TR9 when it comes to the kits they sell
Edit: bought this bad boy
Impact screw driver, it's a tool you put a bit in (i.e Phillips or torx in BMW's case) set the direction, and give it a whack with a hammer. 99% of the time the rotor carrier screw comes loose. Here's one on Amazon
Big tip - only cars with wheel studs (Germans and now FCA vehicles) need the screw re-installed.
Domestic and Japanese using wheel nuts, use the screw to hold the rotor in place while the vehicle is being built, (so a rotor doesn't fall off the car and hit a factory worker) apart from that it doesn't really serve a purpose.
You can get away without using it on the German cars too, but you have to make sure if the bolt snapped that it's flush with the hub.
It's really annoying trying to get the stud through the wheel then the rotor and then to the hub with out the screw holding the rotor in place.
Not op, but it is not hard at all. Just takes some common sense and the proper tools. I highly recommend this pocket ratchet off Amazon. Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LnC6Cb0ZVA1PR
Neiko 03044A Mini Ratcheting Offset Screwdriver and Bit Set, Pocket Size Close-Quarters ,1/4-Inch Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XYOUS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B4VS93J49CX85WHW9T78?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
heres the set
Edit: note that it doesn’t come with a 3/16 bit
If the wrench/socket as suggested by others doesn't work, get an impact scretdriver, like this. I've removed some really knarley screws with that tool. Use it as gently as you can so you don't dent the fridge.
like this
Wera 056490 Tool-Check Plus Bit Ratchet Set with Sockets - Metric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8MYMT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W04K3JTXNGQQW7P9T0H0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
here is a longer bit set
Wera - 5059297001 Kraftform Kompakt 62 Bitholding Screwdriver and Pouch Set, 33-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI7RRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FJWC9XCYA2C6R518M44J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Pretty sure he means this one.
I use this crappy $17 set which is kind of annoying to use but gets the job done for now. The driver itself is a good shape and easy to use, but the magnetic case that holds all the bits kinda sucks.
I have the same set, it’s great. Here is an Amazon link 🤙🏼
EDIT: Looks like OP threw his own custom bit driver in there.
The tool check + from wera is fuckin sweet. It it might be kinda big for biking.
You could mount it on the bike Maybe in a little bag. Or just take the peices you need and have them somewhere safe
https://www.amazon.ca/Wera-056490-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B00I8MYMT2
Edit: the ratchet included takes 1/4inch bits and is excellent quality. Also very cute for a tool
As others suggested, use a pick/scribe to dig the paint out. If they're in an area that can handle some pounding, sometimes you can break the stubborn ones loose with a manual impact driver.
Try different brands of screw drivers and tips. They can vary slightly from one manufacturer to another.
the backs do NOT require removal. Order a 90 degree Screw driver for 8 bucks on amazon
and get a small ratchet with 8mm socket. Took me 15 minutes to do the backs this way. No need to complicate it more then it needs to be haha.