One fun thing to do is take this dress, make a pattern from it, and then make some tailoring adjustments for your next dress. With each one, you will learn new techniques. It's sort of fun to learn how your body fits clothes. This book is very pattern-oriented, but it is amazing for figuring out "fit issues". Excuse all the dorky looking clothes and models. https://www.amazon.com/Fit-Real-People-Clothes-Pattern/dp/0935278656
Picture 1 is the costume I made and picture 2 is the actual costume from the film.
I made this costume from a self drafted patterns. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617566759&sprefix=winifre&sr=8-1) For this costume I drafted a historical frock coat, trousers waistcoat and shirt. I drafted basic blocks from this book and adapted them to what I needed.
The jacket is made from a checked wool and the trousers are made from a striped wool. The waistcoat is made from a black and silver floral brocade and the shirt is made from turquoise cotton. All these fabrics came from Minerva crafts. The neck tie is a black Liquorice allsorts pattern cotton that came from Etsy.
The trousers feature embroidery on one of the legs and the coat and waistcoat feature pockets.
This costume was made for my final major project at university and it turned out really well and I am sooo proud of what I accomplished with this costume!
I made these from a self drafted patterns. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617566759&sprefix=winifre&sr=8-1)
The shirt is made from white satin from fabric land and features a collar and button stand.
The grey top is made from a ribbed jersey from fabric land and features a collar and centre front zip.
The waistcoat is made from black and silver floral brocade and polyester lining from Minerva Crafts and features 4 pockets in the front.
I am a fairly experienced sewer so these was pretty easy to make and was all loads of fun to make. My boyfriend absolutely loves them!!
(I'm reposting this from another comment I made yesterday)
patternmaking for fashion design- Helen Armstrong
This is the textbook that my University had us learn patternmaking off of, it is my Bible, it's falling apart I use it so much! Very comprehensive, and although this copy is quite expensive, you can find used ones on eBay for around $20.
The ONLY thing I'll reccomend to watch out for is to try to find the teachers or colored edition, because the version i have is all black and white, it's more difficult to follow patterning steps in the illustrations.
Youtube, but hand stitching should give neater results (apart from for top stitching maybe). You also have a lot more options available when hand stitching than on a machine.
This is a good book to learn better hand sewing
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Couture-Sewing-Techniques-Revised-Updated/dp/1600853358
“Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Helen Joseph Armstrong was my class text book. It comes in paperback for around $25, US terminology:
https://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking-Fashion-Design-Joseph-Armstrong/dp/0135018765
Bing bing bing! That would be great if your boobs were located under your armpits. :D
Yes, you need to add the fullness where the mountains are located. There are different methods for an FBA and I've even created a few more. Too bad I never made a video, but lots of ppl follow my blog for this very reason.
Anyway, as a starting point, I recommend:
By the way, I use different techniques for knits, wovens, princess seams, etc.
Good luck!
I don't subscribe to any magazines. I had a subscription to Threads years ago and there were too many styles that looked home ecky. The Burda patterns usually don't interest me. I don't usually like Vogue patterns, so I've never read the magazine.
Occasionally, I'll see an interesting review of a magazine pattern on a site like Japanese Sewing Books and will save it.
I have a small library of basic patterns and also like Japanese sewing books, such as "Stylish Dress Book: Wear with Freedom".
David Page Coffin — Shirtmaking: Developing Skills for Fine Sewing (Taunton Press) — published in 1998, still in print. The “definitive resource” — tons of good information, excellent presentation. One of my all-time favorites.
This book, Shirtmaking, is how I learned to make my own shirts.
You don't necessarily need to take a class if you buy the textbook!
The one I bought when I took a patternmaking class was the fourth edition of this book. Fifth edition wasn't out yet and fourth edition didn't have a DVD, so I'm not sure what the DVD might have on it, but the Amazon description lists the extra written material over the fourth edition.
"Pro tip" - see if you can find a three-ring binder bound copy. It's a massive book, and I really liked the binder copy. Lots easier to keep open on a side table while you follow the instructions on your drafting/cutting table.
Personally, I think it's fine to jump in and learn pattern drafting. I found that once I learned the fundamentals of drafting patterns I had a much better idea of how to alter existing patterns. It's quite easy and straightforward to draft things like skirts, dresses and blouses from a set of measurements. Once you're comfortable with those move on to harder things like pants and jackets. Once you perfect your basic slopers you can basically make any pattern you want without having to spend a bunch of time fussing with the fit. Drafting is a very worthwhile skill and I encourage you to dive in and learn!
I highly recommend the book Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Armstrong (link). This is a pretty standard textbook used in college pattern drafting courses. It starts from the very beginning but it does move quickly. I followed this textbook on my own and had no problems really teaching myself drafting. Sure, there was (a lot of) trial and error and I probably would have made fewer mistakes with the help of a teacher, but it's definitely doable if you want to learn on your own, and learning from a textbook is going to be WAY easier and more comprehensive than learning from various youtube videos and blog posts.
metric pattern cutting for menswear
The womenswear version is great. If the mens version is anything like it, I’d recommend it as a staple.
Sarah's dress fits that way, because it is an extremely structured dress. It is heavily boned, and likely she's wearing an additional structured garment underneath it that sleeve stays are tucked into. If you can't let the dress out enough to add boning and a waist stay, your other option would be an underbust stay--or attaching a strapless bra-- you would anchor a piece of elastic in the middle of your underbust, through basically belt loops all the way around your underbust, and add a hook and eye closure to the back. From there you can add small rods of boning to the under arm to tuck into your undergarment to keep them in place or adding basically a harness of ribbon or elastic across the back from the end point of the sleeve ending at the opposite side waist/hip seam, on both sides.
You might find Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B. Shaeffer to be very helpful. She has detailed instructions on how to add all kinds of shape-perfecting stays.
I would recommend this book. I have a small stack of men's shirt patterns, but I haven't made any of them yet so I can't really recommend any particular one. The one's I've made were from patterns pulled from existing shirts.
As for whether or not it's foolish, I certainly don't think so. I'd start with an inexpensive fabric and make a toile or two, figure out the fit and any alterations that may be needed, but I'd also suggest finishing them as practice. There are quite a few ways to turn collars and to attach them, so I'd make a few of those for the practice and to see what works for you. You'll probably also want to test the buttonholes and such on scrap fabric.
The way you finish the seams and small details and how much you press as you go will really determine the difference between looking professionally made and looking home made. If you can encase a seam or fell it, it'll almost always look and feel better than overlocking no matter what the pattern says. If you don't have one, buy a good iron.
Definitely look into vintage patterns then. They usually have much nicer details than what's currently available. You may still have to alter the pattern to fit you since many vintage patterns are smaller than current ones are. Plus size women's patterns are just as blocky and potato sack as plus size men's patterns. Do they think that plus sized people don't require professional clothing, have jobs or attend events they need to dress for?
Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting was suggested in this thread, but she has also written a book for menswear. I think that would be more appropriate for you. It uses metric measurements, but really, it's just a unit of measure. I'm American, but prefer metric because it's more accurate. Here's the Amazon link. I hope that helps you find something that fits you well.
Oh don't worry, a decent amount of professional pattern cutting is copying some vintage (or sometimes not vintage) garment anyways. I think copying clothes is a great way to start learning.
If you decide to learn, I've heard good things about the books by Winifred Aldrich. I use the Muller and Sohn books, but they're quite a bit more expensive.
If you ever need any help with patterns or making stuff feel free to DM me, I always like seeing other peoples work!
One of the best resources for how to do an FBA is Cashmerette, who also not coincidently has built a pattern line around the concept. Here is the first of the series in the blog.
I think it is easiest to do an FBA on a bodice that has at least a side bust dart, if not bust and waist darts. And I think it is easier to practice a true FBA from the start rather than do 'cheater' FBAs which I think make more sense when you understand the theory behind them.
For general pattern alterations, I like The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen. It clearly explains the sequence of fitting and the use of muslins to perfect fit. I don't think she goes into full bust adjustments as well as she might, but the Cashmerette tutorials fill the gap. I first used the digital copy I found at my library before buying my own copy, this is a great way to see if a particular book works for you. You might also benefit from the fitting section of a general sewing book like The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.
Fitting, as you've figured out, is a whole skillset in itself. Good luck as you figure out what works for you!
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Did you happen to read about it in "Couture Sewing Techniques" by Claire Schaeffer? It had great tips for shrinking wool plaid or patterned fabric, so that there wasn't any interruption of the design. That's where I got the idea to steam-shrink wool in both knitted and sewn clothing.
I have the older edition of this book, but it's an amazing resource nonetheless:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1600853358/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_2D8E2M36AX9B7XHSAJ6V
This book is considered a classic in how to sew. You can usually find cheaper editions elsewhere. It will go over most things a beginning sewist needs to know!
When she bought her machine I sent her a very old book that I've had since 1993 but it's such a great resource for a new sewist: The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. If anyone else is browsing this thread, trying to figure out what to give the sewist in their life, I would strongly recommend it. I know youtube has so many great resources as well, but my sister would avoid that if she could.
The Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing, any edition, is good. You can buy an older edition for very little money. They are encyclopedic. I own a lot of sewing books because I enjoy buying them, but so many times I've realized that all the information is in the Reader's Digest Guide. I have an older edition from 1990. A newer edition I leafed through in the bookstore was a bit more project-oriented, but still seemed to contain the same basic information.
Alison Smith's The Sewing Book is good and looks attractive. It's published by DK. I own another sewing book from them and their books tend to be well done with lots of clear photographs.
You might like Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele Margolis. For fitting I really like The Complete Photo Guide to Fitting by Sarah Veblen. You might also look at vintage patterns, not only would you find authentic 60s patterns but you can look for petite or half sizes that may fit you better than the Misses sizing sold now.
When I trace clothing, I go back and mark that the measurements are correct at the bust, waist and hip. Then I sharpen up the lines myself with a ruler or curve guide. I also check to make sure matching seams are the same length and that the corners of the pattern are at 90 degree angles. I'm not sure where I learned how to 'true' a pattern but I know that it helps the pattern go together well in the sewing stage.
I made this jacket from a self drafted pattern. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617566759&sprefix=winifre&sr=8-1)
For this jacket I used dark blue denim with a light blue stripe in it. I also used light blue denim. Both fabrics came from Minerva Crafts.
The fronts and the bottom of the back is made from the dark blue striped denim and the top of the back and the sleeves are made from the light blue denim.
This jacket includes a stand collar and two slit pockets on the inside of the front and two pockets in the side seams.
I am a fairly experienced sewer so this jacket was pretty easy to make and was all loads of fun to make. I hope my boyfriend loves it when I can eventually give it to him!!
This jacket was made from a self drafted pattern. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich to make the pattern (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617651525&sprefix=winifr&sr=8-2) This jacket was made from a green and brown dog tooth check wool from Minerva Crafts
It features a lapel collar, green buttons and pockets in the inside.
I am a fairly experienced sewer so this jacket was pretty easy to make!
I made this jacket from a self drafted pattern. I used a book called Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear by Winifred Aldrich (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattern-Cutting-Menswear-Winifred-Aldrich/dp/1405182938/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=winifred+aldrich&qid=1617566759&sprefix=winifre&sr=8-1)
For this jacket I used green cord and black denim for the outside of it. Both of these came from Minerva Crafts. The inside of the jacket is lined with more of the green cord and black fleece to make it nice and warm. The fleece also came from Minerva Crafts.
The buttons are black with a crown design on them and I got them from Amazon (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07HDGJP64?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title)
This jacket includes a collar and two patch pockets.
I am a fairly experienced sewer so this jacket was pretty easy to make and was all loads of fun to make. I hope my boyfriend loves it when I can eventually give it to him!!
I am not an expert, but usually drag lines point to the issue. You may need to alter the upper portion as well as the rise curve; did you add what you scooped from the rise back to the sides? I have found that this book is a good resource for fitting issues. I also like Singer’s “Sewing Pants That Fit”.
oh hey, that's me! thanks :)
I love Sarah Veblen's Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting - the photos are really well-lit and clear, which I appreciate because I always have trouble visualizing draglines in illustrations. I'm also investigating Fitting and Pattern Alteration (mentioned elsewhere on this post I think?) so far, I'm finding it incredibly comprehensive.
otherwise, just straight up muslining and trial and error. good luck!
You are very well placed to be a fashion designer with the pattern making elements covered with your engineering background
No one can teach you to be creative, that comes from inside you and go with your “point of difference” and what pleases your eyes
Studying is a fantastic way to devote yourself and is such a fertile time to bounce off others and learn from experts, cone to my town maybe ?
https://www.qut.edu.au/courses/bachelor-of-design-fashion
I loved being a fashion student! Not at the University above, at a Technical College where we learnt the patternmaking, grading and sewing as well as life drawing and Photoshop et al
If you wanted to find a text book which explained how to create the shapes you want try Armstrong’s as it has almost every kind of whatever’s out want and when you get how it works you can go from there
All the best!
https://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking-Fashion-Design-Joseph-Armstrong/dp/0135018765