Something like this perhaps?
32 Inch Floating Shelf Bracket - Hidden Shelf Bracket with 150 LB Weight Capacity - Invisible Design for Shelves 32 Inches and Longer - Heavy Duty 3/4 Inch Solid Steel Support Rods - Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYWHRUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_r.DeGbPHJMYAN
I used these floating shelf brackets from Amazon: BATODA - Floating Shelf Bracket (4 pcs Galvanized Steel) - Blind Shelf Supports - Hidden Brackets for Floating Wood Shelves - Concealed Blind Shelf Support – Screws and Wall Plugs Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0774MT62N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_kO7aGbZ8CF8W8
Thank you! I bought hardware from amazon. I'm using some pretty heavy duty floating shelf brackets. (Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYWHRUS)
Edit: to expand on that - the shelves themselves are basically boxes that are open on the back and slide onto the brackets. The shelves are reinforced on the inside with ribbing.
Haha yeah sorry! Just got these ones off Amazon: 8 Pcs 6" Black Solid Steel Floating Shelf Bracket Blind Shelf Supports - Hidden Brackets for Floating Wood Shelves - Concealed Blind Shelf Support – Screws and Wall Plugs Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9L87JL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X89W5Z29RHZXCCK36FCD Generally went by this guy’s instructions: https://www.thenavagepatch.com/diy-floating-shelves/
Sumnacon Sturdy Folding Shelf Brackets - Heavy Duty Metal Triangle Table Bench Folding Shelf Bracket 10 Inch, 2 Pcs Folding Shelf Hinge Wall Mounted, Max Load 132lb (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT44C1D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YM56SK6V7XTYHXP0J943?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Locking hinges
these are the ones I used The size is perfect, but they are much stronger than needed. They hold 35lb each, and I used all four. The important part IMO is to get the mounting board screwed into a wall stud, instead of using drywall anchors.
Wet the gap... squirt some water into the gap, let it soak in good, and then come back with wood glue. Do your best to inject or otherwise, push the glue into the gap.
Put some clamps on it, wait 24 hours and then pull them off.
If it doesn't split again right away, it probably won't.
For future reference, a workbench will go together, faster and stronger with the use of some metal braces/brackets like these (link below)... This is an amazon link, but they can usually be found, at Home depot, lowes etc...
I actually didn't weight them but if I had to guess I'd say around 15 pounds each. I used these from amazon.
Get some steel or heavy aluminum angle bracket and cut to length. Bolt it to the underside of the shelf. This will prevent it from bowing and possibly pulling the end supports free.
The little tabletop fasteners- those metal brackets? You can get them at any woodworking store- Rockler, Woodcraft- or on Amazon. I think they're just called tabletop fasteners.
Edit: here:
Table Top Fasteners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZRDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TANUzbMDJSCZ9
By the way, the L-brackets (what your handyman put on) would have worked if they were much larger. They need to be the full length of the shelves, and they have to cover all the way to the corners. Something like this:
12cm long each, two per shelf.
I used L brackets and glued plates onto them. The other ships are held by screws!
Those are both simple enough to look good with your bed!
If you prefer the mounted shelf idea but are concerned about making the bed with them, instead of mounting them like a floating shelf you can mount them with something like this. That way, you can regain that space while you're making your bed.
Either way you'll have a great solution! 15" is plenty of space even if furniture catalogues don't traditionally design for that.
I just bought two sets of these. Lined up one of the holes in the bracket with the predrilled holes. Marked the other two, drilled through the cart frame, secured them, then attached the shelves. No welding involved. Though I did have to take off the angled supports when drilling.
Acceptance is a personal thing. The problem I can see with just gluing the legs to the top is expansion and contraction.
Wood is essentially a bundle of straws that absorb and shed humidity. When it absorbs it, the wood expands, when it sheds it, it contracts. The good part is that it’s predictable, in that it always expands and contracts in the direction of the grain. Depending on the conditions, it will do so up to a 1/4”.
If you just glue the legs on, the expansion will cause a great deal of strain in the wood that will give when it hits critical. Maybe it gives on the glue line, maybe in the middle of the board, either way, you end up with cracks. If you use route a lip into the bottom of the table with a keyhole bit and use z clamps, then the table can move with out binding and splitting.
To use the legs as you asked, you’d have to glue them in along the grain. They don’t look long enough to support the table in that direction without some serious tipping issues.
Acceptance is a personal thing. The problem I can see with just gluing the legs to the top is expansion and contraction.
Wood is essentially a bundle of straws that absorb and shed humidity. When it absorbs it, the wood expands, when it sheds it, it contracts. The good part is that it’s predictable, in that it always expands and contracts in the direction of the grain. Depending on the conditions, it will do so up to a 1/4”.
If you just glue the legs on, the expansion will cause a great deal of strain in the wood that will give when it hits critical. Maybe it gives on the glue line, maybe in the middle of the board, either way, you end up with cracks. If you use route a lip into the bottom of the table with a keyhole bit and use z clamps, then the table can move with out binding and splitting.
I've got a frame I'm looking at hanging on the wall as art. Previously I used a custombottom bracket mount, but this time I'm probably just going to use a pair of these, positioned just right for the frame. They come in various lengths; maybe you can find one that'll work for you?
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Solid-Floating-Bracket-Supports/dp/B07S9L87JL
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9L87JL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The holes are 1 1/2" apart so each had 1 screw into a stud and the other a wall anchor
Thanks… here is a link to the brackets. 8 Pcs 6" Black Solid Steel Floating Shelf Bracket Blind Shelf Supports - Hidden Brackets for Floating Wood Shelves - Concealed Blind Shelf Support – Screws and Wall Plugs Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9L87JL/
I say keep the legs where they are for stability. You could still use those plates to connect the desks together, in fact also add some L brackets between the table and each leg, and the tables and the walls to strengthen and stabilize even more.
Link to brackets below…. I got a centering jig and had to get a 16inch 1/2 drill bit and drill out the holes… I got lucky, this is a townhouse so the party walls all have 3/4inch plywood so I was able to go into both the wall and the studs comfortably. I would do it differently if I did it again and chisel out the brackets so they sit flush, there’s a 1/16ish inch gap between the board and wall right now but only I know that!!
8 Pcs 6" Black Solid Steel Floating Shelf Bracket Blind Shelf Supports - Hidden Brackets for Floating Wood Shelves - Concealed Blind Shelf Support – Screws and Wall Plugs Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9L87JL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TAY624GKADV2VMRHPJF0
Either build a frame out of 2x4s or get something like this. You’ll need to screw into the studs behind the drywall. Anchors will not work.
8 Pcs 6" Black Solid Steel Floating Shelf Bracket Blind Shelf Supports - Hidden Brackets for Floating Wood Shelves - Concealed Blind Shelf Support – Screws and Wall Plugs Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9L87JL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G3F6Z41T2HRBA7S9HATM
You could look for a metal replacement. Something like this- not sure this one will work in your case but you can try it.
Nothing wrong with your approach to the table, just offering another solution for anyone else curious. I used locking hinges for my pop up table and just an easy piece of hobby wood from Lowes. Easy install, minimal construction.
Looks like they are more expensive on Amazon. I bought mine from the blue big box store.
Simpson WBSK Workbench & Shelving Hardware Kit
We used these! 8 Pcs 6" Black Solid Steel Floating Shelf Bracket Blind Shelf Supports - Hidden Brackets for Floating Wood Shelves - Concealed Blind Shelf Support – Screws and Wall Plugs Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9L87JL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2BBTRT9WNVEWCK9J5WQP
Those would definitely work, but won't give you the floating look. You can use something like this to get the structural strength you need without compromising aesthetics.
Edit: get some that are specifically rated for the weight and size of the shelf and its contents. Don't use drywall anchors. You need hardware that can be secured directly to the studs.
Traditional approach was to use a slot in the apron and a block that engages with it. Like this.
You can also just use a thin stip of steel/aluminium and drill two holes. Sand the corners off and you have a figure 8.
I would run an apron between the legs (two long ways, tow short ways). You can attach the aprons to the table and legs using pocket screws and then use an apron bracket to further attach it to the legs. This would be strong and hide any jointers from regular visibility. Here's a link to give you ideas. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L6K5G0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_AJPVSSSERABJF4Y19FYQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1