I'd highly recommend this dac if you care about sound quailty. It is doing an amazing job for the money.
edit: sorry this dac will only work for base ps4 and ps4 pro owners.
I think you are confused, 3.5mm is not digital, it is an analog signal. Anyway to can get a digital to analog converter for around $15, that gives you a headphone jack.
The easiest and least expensive solutions would be the following:
A USB to Toslink/Coxial bridge:
While you'd be bypass the Denon's DAC with it, an Apple USB to 3.5mm dongle is an excellent choice that will output transparently to 24/48:
Ya, that's not going to do what you want... It's not converting anything but the plug housing. It's optical in and out. It is not making a 3.5mm stereo analog signal.
You need a 3.5mm jack that looks exactly like the end of your headphones, with 2 black bands separating the 3 metal bands.
Also, depending on the turntable, you might have more issues. If the turntable has a standard rca plug on it (red and white), then you need to plug that into a port labeled phono. Any other port, and your music will sound bad, no bass, lo fi. Phono input jacks have a special eq curve built in to make up for subtractive eq used when pressing the record.
I'm sure there is a device to do what you want. Digital optical in, analog stereo 3.5mm out.
Something like this is more what you want
OREI Digital to Analog Audio Converter - Optical SPDIF/Coaxial to RCA L/R with 3.5mm Jack Support Headphone/Speaker Output DA21 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008EPW7TA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ApZeCbEJ6RE1F
Also, cheapest phono preamp on amazon:
I'd get something like this:
This will convert the usb signal into an optical one that then goes to your x8 and in the process gets rid of the noise from usb
Bro getting the Beam to work with the Mac was the most annoying yet at the end easiest thing to do. There's literally nothing online to point out how to do this, but I figured it out. I bought this:
And it works flawlessly. You can even turn the sound up and down from the Mac. The device with a green glow is my wireless router, it's a AmpliFi ALIEN Router
FiiO makes a cheap but solid dac ($19.99 from parts-express.com or if you have prefer Amazon it's 24.99 with prime)
1 optical in, 1 coaxial in, 1 3.5 line-out, and L-R output to your amp.
PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Amps Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DHt5CbCZFA5KC
Here's one from Amazon you won't be able to use chat or anything though only sound
My computer tower has an optical-out built in to its onboard sound card, but my laptop doesn't - so for my laptop, I use this for recording to non-NetMD devices : https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=usb+dac&dchild=1&keywords=usb+dac&pd_rd_i=B00FEDHHKE&pd_rd_r=b243b981-5845-4438-b1c4-9a31efbe637f&pd_rd_w=HqjMn&pd_rd_wg=w0962&pf_rd_p=1da5beeb-8f71-435c-b5c5-3279a6171294&pf_rd_r=ZDM0QRXVX47V9R0QJH2K&psc=1&qid=1594544872&sr=1-1-70f7c15d-07d8-466a-b325-4be35d7258cc
I also have a JE-320 deck that's hooked up to a CD player and a turntable - so I can make mix discs comprising of tracks from vinyl records, CDs, digital files from my computer, YouTube, Spotify, etc etc
I'm using a Traktor S4 MK3 controller which has a built-in soundcard, so it's just connected to the mac mini via USB, and the speakers are connected to the controller.
Depending on your use-case, you will need an audio interface or DAC.
(They are similar but 'audio interfaces' are geared towards music production because they'll often have low latency and extra inputs whereas 'DACs' are usually more tailored towards music listening with a simpler set of inputs)
Example audio interface: https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Native-Instruments-Komplete-Audio-1/art-PCM0015600-000
Example DAC: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006IPH5H2/r
I have an Asus Xonar U3, you have to install drivers to get optical out but it works; there are others listed on Amazon that provide optical through a USB connection.
I use an old Turtle beach USB optical adapter and it works great. I can use it both on my phone and computer. One I was looking at was the Douk Audio which looks reasonably nice and Douk can make some decent stuff with good build quality. Everything is staying in the digital realm, so spending more won't necessarily give you any benefit. It's when doing the D to A conversion that engineering matters more.
take this for example
$16, should be good, right?
Should be, I mean it will work, but in doing so must convert all analog signals to 48kHz (according to that listing).
Playing 48kHz music or video+audio stuff should be smooth sailing, but I don’t know if it’s going to be “audiophile level precision” when it comes to feeding it something of lower or higher sample rate than it outputs, then sending that over Bluetooth.
Maybe I wouldn’t be able to hear the difference, but it would bug me slightly.
Get a DAC Converter with optical input and RCA output.
Tv optical out via optical cable > DAC converter > RCA out to receiver via RCA cable
Try this one: DAC CONVERTER
$13 bucks on Amazon
PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7MA1SYV3CDSF9DTCHH96
The iPhone streams to the Chromecast Audio, which has a combination analog and mini-toslink (optical) output jack.
You get a mini-toslink to full-sized toslink cable, and plug the mini end into the CCA.
The full-sized end goes into an optical to coaxial converter like this one. Then you connect the coaxial output to the DAC’s coaxial input over a single RCA cable.
As a side note, it's possible that the output is either a fixed volume output, variable with your TV volume setting, or toggleable between the two via a setting. Given that it says 'headphone', it's most likely a variable output that auto-mutes the TV speakers which is probably preferable.
It looks like a Polaroid 32GSR3000, which if so means that the orange RCA connection next to it labeled COAXIAL is a digital output, so you could perhaps also use that with a coax-to-RCA adapter (something like this, although I can't vouch for this exact model's quality). But a regular 3.5mm to dual RCA adapter like /u/vandal_taking_handle suggests is a simpler and cheaper approach.
Yes, I think optical is the way to go.
Here's an external solution but you can always buy a PCI card if it's a Windows desktop.
Amazon.com: Douk Audio USB Converter XMOS XU208 Digital Interface TOSLINK Coaxial DOP SPDIF Adapter DSD64 PCM192Khz: Home Audio & Theater
Also some Macs have optical out built in as reported here:
Play high sample rate digital audio on Mac computers - Apple Support
If you get an optical to coax converter running from your TV to the phillips and have your PS5 and PC connected with, I assume, HDMI then yes your TV should send the surround sound signal to the phillips.
Something like this seems like your best option.
Optical-to-Coaxial or Coax-to-Optical Digital Audio Converter Adapter, ROOFULL Premium Bi-Directional Digital Coaxial to/from SPDIF Optical (Toslink) Audio Signal Converter/Repeater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32C5GT/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_hrndGbMR3W20K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
In my experience with HTIB there is no way to bypass the DVD player. All of your sound is output from it. I had one decades ago and once the dvd player died everything was done. My subwoofer was passive with no easy way to connect it to anything. And with all of your speakers being 3 ohms you wont be able to find an receiver that has 3 ohm output. That is why the vitriol against this idea I suspect.
For $20 why not try it, but keep your expectations low.
However, the other school of thought, is save the $20 and put it towards a used AVR that has HDMI inputs and maybe goes as low as 4 ohms, use your speakers with it until you can replace them. Sub might give you trouble although it is supposed to be active. Might be able to rewire it.
I also agree that there will likely be some latency. I've never tried it, but it does look like this is what you are looking for.
Yea all works fine. I ended up with this one https://www.amazon.ca/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=usb+to+optical&qid=1608250983&s=electronics&sr=1-5
Can use 3D sound with my amp/dac with no issues with the usb to optical converter.
Hello! I use this Digital Optical to Analog converter and have had zero lag. I found it looking for "Rocksmith PS4 lag fix" on Youtube. I use headphones, but I've seen some people use Logitech speakers or even their guitar amp without issue.
Also, just making sure, do you have the HDMI cable from the PS4 running into your Home Theater/Soundbar or into the TV? I think having both the HDMI and the Optical running to the same system (Home Theater/Soundbar) can mess up the signal.
My setup is HDMI to TV, optical to my analog converter. I also mute the TV because the PS4 outputs sound through both cables, no matter if you choose Optical Only.
Hope this helps!!
I had this same issue for a while. I bought a Micca OriGen+. USB or optical from the computer and a little switch to change between pre-amp out (to powered speakers) and DAC+AMP (for headphones). Everything stays plugged in at all times and I just hit a switch to change what I want to listen to. Sitting at about $110 on amazon.
Edit: the preamp out runs though the DAC as well.
i'm not an audiophile by any means but because of recommendations I saw on reddit i got a pair of sennheiser 558's (50% off thanks to this sub) and an antlion modmic off ebay for less than $120 total. I'm very happy with the setup. You could get a cheaper mic with another set of headphones (the Phillps SHP9500 get recommended a LOT and they currently go for less than $80 on amazon) but thats what I have and it works for me.
If you're upgrading to a real deal set of headphones you might need something like this if you get interference. The cool part is you can switch between speakers and headphones with the flick of a switch.
getting any dac would help compared to shitty onboard audio, but amp doesnt matter too much for this
source: had m50x and shitty onboard laptop sound, bought a random cheap dac from amazon and it sounded loads better
None that I have any experience with, but a quick amazon search turned up this: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HEFZD1N2CXZVKA2402TD
Keep in mind (as the poster below said): you get what you pay for. The link I provided was the cheapest option on the list, so you milage may vary.
The optical connection would be using the same DAC chip as the USB so it shouldn't sound much better or worse than USB.
This might be a good buy: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE it has good amazon reviews but I haven't heard it.
You would need another device that converts USB to Coaxial, like a FiiO E10k, Topping D10, or Schiit Eitr.
Or even this cheap thing off Amazon
I ended up picking up the open box S15s and the SMSL SA50 during the ebay sale. Also, picked up the DAC from Amazon. Just waiting on them to arrive now.
How would I go about hooking up the DAC and the amplifier to the desktop? Know how to do with with just the amplifier, but not sure what additional cables I'll need for the DAC.
It looks like you are connecting, or trying to connect, the INPUT of the TV to the INPUT of the speakers.
If you are on a budget, a simple DAC will allow you to connect the Optical Audio Out of the TV to the DAC (digital to analog converter) and from there via RCA-RCA to the Speakers.
You can spend anywhere from $20 to $2000 on a DAC. Though if you are on a budget, this DAC will do fine -- $20 ...24b/192k -
Between the TV and the DAC you will need an Optical cable, you can find thousands of these on Amazon, or you can buy them at Walmart, Best Buy, Menards, Home Depot, and many other places. Just make sure you get one long enough to reach from the TV OUT to the DAC.
So the other option I can think of is a DAC/AMP. Depending on where you live, I'm from the UK so I could get a cheap one for £30 (I would probably buy a FiiO decent one because I would use for other stuff than gaming) and it uses optical out, and you can set that as the settings.
Just found this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ub6eCbV3H9WSS
I don't know how good it is but Amazon is pretty lenient on returns so you could say incompatible.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
^^^I'm ^^^a ^^^bot ^^^and ^^^this ^^^action ^^^was ^^^performed ^^^automatically.
RCA output from your DJ controller to this adapter https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW and the optical from the adapter into your sound bar.
Does your tv have rca audio outs? If not you need to get an adapter for whatever audio outputs it has to rca if you want to use that amp.
Most TV's have at least an optical out, if that's all yours has you'd need an optical to rca adapter or buy an amp with an optical input. May need this
Sounds like some adapters may be in your future!
Something like this maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW
I'm glad I could provide some inspiration! I personally went with the Beam for minamlism. I was really torn on going for this or Audioengine A5's. I already had another Beam and a One so I really wanted to expand on that without getting the speakers and an Amp like you said.
Only my PS4 works with it right now but I'm thinking about ordering this USB DAC off Amazon and running it to a 3 input 1 output spdif switch. This way I can switch between the Mac and PS4 that's coming from the out on my A50's.
I also REALLY want a Sub but my god those are a far reach. $400 feels like a much more proper price but I suspect this is where Sonos is making generous revenue from enthusiasts.
I use an Optcial DAC on my PS4 and Xbox One. Plug this into a headphone/passive speaker amp or powered speakers over 3.5mm, and you're good to go.
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Use this instead.
Digital to Analog Audio Converter, Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Q98W3QJCAXMWN198FMG1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is a good way. Easy enough to get a cheap optical in - - >3.5mm output or Bluetooth.
I used something like this with either aux or headphone jack to a cheap sound bar. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Toslink-Converter-Adapter-Optical-Black-96-KHz-2-0CH/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=asc_df_B00KNNSKV0/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309757320705&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11417287772964835980&hvpon...
You'll have better luck with optical. Get something like this but make sure your RCA cable is running most of the length of your connection to the speaker, as optical toslink cables tend to break easily under repeated movement.
Du musst ja irgendwie von analog auf digital und von Elektronen aof Photonen wechseln. Zum Glück gibts da was von Amazon.
Looked like that may be optical out on the tv in the upper right of the pic. If so you could run optical out to a converter like this one to push to your receiver:
PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3DQAGQ7S6XK0VMV59N13
So something like this?
PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3NEDYEAJJ2HJ82TDH5Q6
Assuming the TV has no headphone jack or analog output... One of these will do the trick to convert the optical to RCA.
I use something similar to this one.
It supports both coaxial and optical input.
Hi, sorry to bother you after 3 months for this.
In another comment, you mentioned that the DAC chip inside the AXR100 is better than in the Topping E30 (i.e., AK4493). I was originally going for a similar setup to the OP, but your comment is making me think otherwise.
If I do choose to buy the AXR100, can you tell me how I can connect a device like the Raspberry pi or a mini PC to the AXR? AFAIK it doesn't have a USB input, and I'm not sure if the USB-to-optical converters on Amazon will affect the sound quality or not. If not for this one problem, I would almost definitely buy the AXR100.
I was considering the Douk Audio USB Converter as a converter for such a setup. If possible, I'd like your opinion on this, or any other way in which I could achieve my setup.
Thanks for your time!
If your TV does not have analog RCA or 3.5mm output to connect to the speakers then you will need a digital optical input DAC.
Audio Guides, Speaker Placement, Accessories and Vinyl Care
You decided on any of this yet? I got 800s also. I was thinking of just getting the JDS Labs Atoms then hook up to my amp then to headphones for simplicity between PC/PS5.
Since you got an expensive dac/amp you could; "PS5 (USB) -> UAC1.0 device (Optical/Toslink/CoaxialDigital) -> your DAC -> your amp -> your headphones.". I don't know about the TV route since I use my second monitor(1080p/120hz) to game on.
I was in the same boat as my TV did not have any analog audio outputs. You don’t need an expensive DAC to output audio to your Integrated Amp. A $30 Optical/Coaxial DAC on Amazon or Best Buy like this FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08BRN56QEHWGGFVR58BS will do the job just fine as it has for me without any issues.
Your tv should have an optical /spdif port, which will allow you to convert it to headphone/rca out with something like this.
Use a converter like this.
That will take the optical output from the tv and convert it to a headphone jack. You can run optical output and the tv speakers at the same time.
[How do I connect HDMI or optical out to line in?]
I have an old-skool Quad 99 pre-amp and stereo power-amp currently gathering dust. The pre-amp only has line-level inputs.
I'm thinking of connecting (a) my TV, and (b) a yet-to-be-determined streamer to the Quad amp.
My TV only has HDMI or optical sound output.
I'm currently using a Sony STR-DN1040 AV amp.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Hey not sure if you still need this advice as it’s been a few days.
You need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B01HGHNCMW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=analog+to+digital+audio+converter&qid=1646902410&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTU9SUlUxRFBKOUdJJmVuY3J5...
This would allow you to plug the red and white audio wires from your tv, convert it to optical, which then goes to your soundbar. Not sure how that would affect sound quality as I’ve never done this personally but I know this is definitely possible. Then you just set your tv settings to go audio out via the analog channels and then you should be good to go!
Musou RCA Analog to Digital Optical Toslink Coaxial Audio Converter Adapter with Optical Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGHNCMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_7KAHY3N1AB1FYVVJ80KK
Maybe this will work. You have the outputs for rca cables. This is supposed to convert it to optical. It will need to be plugged in to power also.
The only audio out I see on the TV is analog (on the right side). You need to convert to digital for your sound bar. Something like this should work:
The RCA connectors are inputs for the TV to receive audio alongside component video. To output audio, you need a digital to analog converter that receives digital audio from the optical port and converts it to an analog signal. Something like this.
The Sony will work with a TV by connecting a digital optical to analog RCA converter between the Sony and the TV however you may as well just spend $60 more for an AV receiver instead of the converter.
just depends on what you need down the line. the dac will be probably more useful if you have other stuff down the line you want to use it with.
they both do the same thing. The arc attracter basically just takes the output from your arc and splits the audio through a dac.
I have a Samsung Q850A and ran into a similar problem. However, the Q850A has an optical port so I bought [an analog-to-digital converter]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGHNCMW) to convert the RCA out of my turntable to optical
The Sonos Beam seems to only have 1 HDMI port so you may also need to get an HDMI switch to share the connection with your TV
I have 5 speakers + sub that I would like to connect to a Samsung smart TV and an Alexa Echo Dot.
The Echo dot uses Aux and the TV uses an optical cable.
This is the receiver that I have at home:
It seems like it has only one input option, can I use something like this:
Does it look like I will be able to connect the TV to the "SPDIF" port, and maybe the Echo to the Coaxial port somehow?
What is your budget? For $110 , the Topping D10s DAC measures very well. It has RCA analog outputs and digital coax and digital optical outputs.
That being said, I would assume that the D10s DAC is far better than the internal DAC in the speakers. I would send an analog signal from the D10s to the speakers instead of using the speakers internal DAC.
There are a lot of less expensive converters but I have no idea if they are any good.
Get a cheapie DAC for now & try Tidal out. Just jumped ship & m very satisfied. Only took about 10mins to transfer all my Spotify & AMZ HD(steer clear) playlists to it. If you’re satisfied— u could always upgrade to the Schiit MODI.
I run the same amp/speakers & you’ll def notice a diff between BT & wired.
How should I set the converter from option 2b.. Mode 2 or 3? And how should I set the switch, to Coaxial or SPDIF? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32C5GT/?th=1 I’m still trying to understand how it works. I think Mode 3, because the TV is the source, correct? And then the switch I have no idea…. Sorry for so many questions.
Not to be pedantic but if you are going from USB to optical you technically wouldn't need a DAC, you'd need a converter since the audio is staying in the digital realm. Something like this would work
I'm experiencing pops and crackles in my 3.5mm Sennheisers when plugged in to the green audio jack on my motherboard. The front panel is worse with loud static. I'm desperate for a solution, this is ruining all audio.
Would a budget DAC like this resolve pops and crackles? It's a USB DAC, I'm not sure if USB will work or if I need SPDIF.
Your modi can act as a switch between the raspi and computer without need for a sys or 2nd dac. I’d recommend a simple usb to coax adapter for the pi. I use this one but there are others out there Douk Audio USB Converter XMOS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085XPRSGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Computer usb -> modi usb -> Loki -> magni -> powered speakers/ headphones
Raspi usb -> adapter -> modi coax -> (rest same as above)
Edit: I can send pics if my -> thing isn’t making sense.
If you’re okay with going analog 3.5mm out from the TV, and you need Bluetooth… get a pair of Neumi BS5 speakers and a Fosi BT20A. I think those would be just under $200 total.
However, note that many TV’s have pretty awful-sounding analog outputs. They only add that feature in to check off a box…
it’s often driven by mere cents worth of electronics. So I would recommend adding a very basic digital to analog converter like this as well, and going optical to this thing, and then RCA to your amplifier.
Another option would be to get something like an SMSL AD18, which is a Bluetooth speaker amp that has a DAC built in… and also has a remote, which neither the Fosi nor that super cheapo unshielded one you linked include. That puts you up closer to $250 though.
As I already said before, you don’t need any special accommodation on your speaker amp to use subwoofer. You just need to make sure you’re choosing a sub that includes high-level inputs, so it can take speaker wire (doubled up from the speaker outputs). Most subs have these inputs, so this isn’t hard.
You would probably benefit from a DAC. Use an optical cable from the TV to the DAC then an RCA cable to the AUX input on the receiver.
To me this sounds like the analog audio output of the TV is picking up interference from the TV’s wifi hardware.
The analog audio outputs on modern TV’s are just an afterthought meant to check off a box. They’re made with like 10 cents of parts. If you want clean audio out of a TV you need to use optical digital output, and then run that through a digital to analog converter.
It doesn’t have to be an expensive one. This $16 one would work.
So I recently bought a DAC from amazon because my Samsung Tu7000 smart TV.
Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2TAGEM72N1Y93&keywords=dac+audio+converter&qid=1642651457&sprefix=dac+audio+convert%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-3
This one is cheap and does the job:
If you're looking for a more sophisticated let me know.
Here you go I’ve been in the same boat. Use the combo below with the iPad and then plug in your laptop usb. The cable is an otg cable. You need that specifically or it won’t work for passing audio.
Douk Audio USB Converter XMOS XU208 Digital Interface TOSLINK Coaxial DOP SPDIF Adapter DSD64 PCM192Khz https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B085XPRSGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0CTN6CNRBFDEY2CZ3R46?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Meenova 8 pin-to-MicroUSB USB DAC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VHB531Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I think you should go with the Sonos. The marantz is too old tech to be convenient to use (you’d need a lot of remote controls instead of one app) and has no HDMI for other uses. The Marantz is also too new to have any character or coloring that means anything.
You can also control the analog to digital stage with anything that can do RCA to Optical, then run that digital signal into the Sonos.
I use this for Rocksmith (audio interface RCA to optical to Sonos amp), but I’m sure there are more reputable options out there. This has zero delay which is what’s important for me.
Musou RCA Analog to Digital Optical Toslink Coaxial Audio Converter Adapter with Optical Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGHNCMW
The Sonos amp also has much higher power headroom, especially into 4 or less Ohm speakers.
You will need a device that will convert the optical output on your TV to analog for the Bose. Something like this.
PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VN4570TP973QCXHC24AP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Will something like this suffice?
Your TV probably does not output any audio from the HDMI connectors (inputs) on your TV.
So I don't think this device will help you.
Are there any audio OUT on this TV?
Like RCA connectors or 3.5 mm connector?
I think you possibly only can get analog audio from your TV and need to convert this to a digital signal (optical for example).
But it of course depends on what kind of audio output you have.
If you don't have arc you will not get any audio from your TVs hdmi connector since they are input only.
You only have one option here, you will need a digital coaxial to optical converter.
Optical-to-Coaxial OR Coaxial-to-Optical Digital Audio Converter, ROOFULL Bi-Directional Digital Coaxial to/from Optical Toslink SPDIF Audio Converter/Adapter/Repeater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N32C5GT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P3TJP8HRA6ZYXXPQ4PYP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Scart to HDMI won’t get you anywhere in-expensively, unfortunately, as the adapter will need a lot of complex circuitry in it. Actually, this will convert optical to analogue, and is a lot cheaper than I was anticipating. PROZOR 192kHz DAC Converter Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio R/L Converter Adapter with Optical Cable Compatible with HD DVD Sky HD Blu-ray https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EQJSPB2901DMDA25A3E1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. You’ll need to supply power to this. You said the TV has optical out, yes?
My solution was to purchase a crosshair viii dark hero. I noticed it was actually a better motherboard minus 10g ethernet and the thunderbolt 4 ports (which don't even supply high wattage so what is the point)
Otherwise you'll need something like this:
This was the original device I looked at when thinking of purchasing this board. I like this device because it supports the full bandwidth capabilities of SPDIF, and overall is a very clean implementation.
By "not even a header to connect one yourself" I meant that there are internal headers in some motherboards for optical connectors. So you could add a daughter board on and get an optical port, but it is the optical out of the onboard sound chip.
I had the same issue basically.
My new TV only had an optical out for audio. I have a set of Logitech z623 speakers. I had to get something like this converter in order for the sound to play through the speakers. Also I had to change the audio output on the TV to PCM.
I still stick to my TV built in speakers most of the time because once you switch to the PC speakers, you cannot control the volume with the remote. You have to use the volume on the speakers to change the volume.
So that's the only work around I know of for new TVs with Optical output.
Other than that you'll want to get a good receiver and a set of speakers.
Just this little guy will get you sound:
FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC
>USB-C to spdif adapter
I purchased the Douk Audio USB Converter 
>75 ohm cable
I'm not sure what this is. I purchased a fiber optic cable.
I think I see what you're saying. This has all been super helpful, thank you. I'm new to this and hope you don't mind the followup questions.
So my original plan was to use this converter and this adapter to get it to coax. After trying to understand your messages it sounds like you agree that that would work?
It looks like there are USB to Coax converters like . Perhaps it's also time to think about a USB DAC
 Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM
If you need a cheap, effective dac I’ve got this one that I’ve used on desktop and laptop passthrough just fine. I’ve got koss and hifiman headphones working with it just fine as well as speakers.
Have the exact same speakers with my M1. I use this
Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WD9V0QR7BS0NFCT5W348?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Worst case you could use a cheap audio interface. Looks like this may do the trick, I thought it was USB-C at first but looks like you’d need a Micro USB to USB-C cable/adapter to use. https://www.amazon.com/Douk-Audio-Converter-Interface-PCM192Khz/dp/B085XPRSGM
Yeah, it sucks that there isn't an optical out on the PS5. You can, however, get around it and still use devices that require an optical connection. You'll need a USB to optical converter like this as well as a USB A to B cable like this.
It will still let you use the tempest audio due to the USB connection.
There is a couple things, not that this will help:
Long story short, I had a lot sound issues with my Razer laptop, so I connected the Magni directly to my PC when I first started. It was good, but there was ALWAYS some type of line noise. The more volume, the more noise. I thought getting a Modius would help alleviate that using USB. I did a lot of troubleshooting, never really found a good reason, my only thought was a longer than usual USB cable. (Or grounding issues). So try a really short cable for a few moments since I'm guessing you probably have a 2m cable to get it up to your desk.
It made it "better" but at 50%+ it was almost terrible. So, then I switched to using Optical. Everything got 100% better.
THEN I got a new motherboard that didn't have Optical, all my issues came back. So, to be short and blunt, I don't think Schitt's USB DACs are built with Gaming-PCs in mind. But, I dirgress, it WAS better on the front and every once-in-awhile, I had to move it. I ended up getting a USB to optical convert (Hard to find cause it was basically a DAC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085XPRSGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it helped a lot. (THis is still a DAC, so ya know.. YMMV) It made it about 90% better, but still had some issues.
Then I got another new motherboard, this one having optical I've got it running to my Modius, once again. 0 issues, sounds great.
Long story short, I was really interested in trying a SoundBlaster sound card, but since my computer was a Mini-ITX I didn't have a spare PCI slot, and all SoundBlaster USB-based DACs have headphone adapters, so they're running a DAC.
There are usb devices that will do this
Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NHRX5X3YZPBPEPX0PTS1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sony STR-DH190 does not have optical however you can connect a $20 digital optical input DAC to the Sony or any receiver that does not have digital optical input.
Digital from the computer to analog in the amp is literally a DAC, digital to analog converter.
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO is one example that takes optical and outputs RCA (doesn't seem to be available there atm, but somethign along those lines).
Hmm, my experience is that most motherboards with better-qualify audio circuits also have optical out. That lack of the toslink output could be an indicator that your motherboard was built to the lowest cost possible.
To answer your question, yeah, I think that it could make a difference.
Question, does your A/V receiver have a USB input for digital audio? If so, try that. If not, If you don't want to go through the hassle of replacing your motherboard and you have a spare USB port on your PC, you could try something like this:
I can't comment on the quality of this device, but since it's a D/D converter, it should suffice and since it's through amazon, if it sucks or doesn't work, just return it.
The orange connection on the bottom is digital coax which is the same thing as optical using a different cable and can be converted with this
Ok, then yes, a USB to S/PDIF converter should work.
Get that one instead. You don’t need the I^(2)S output the other one has.
Never mind I found a box that will do it. I don’t see a cable but if you know of one please let me know thanks!
I think this is what I’m going to need. Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_29TG17T9QAW5QJ8Q6JJV
optical is light shining down a fiber optics bundle.
Not sure what a series S is, but if it doesn't have optical, and it has either RCA outs or maybe a 3.5 mini out there is no connecter that will help you out. It's apples and oranges, digital vs analog.
you can buy a little converter box that will take analog out to optical, like this maybe:
but be sure you get the right kind of optical connector - the one I linked is Toslink
from the googles:
Note that there are two types of optical connections: full size Toslink, and mini-optical. A coaxial digital cable will provide a distortion-free connection between your digital audio source component and an A/V receiver or DAC.
Its going to be a fixed output. We have had success with these for the conversion