What the hell that's way too expensive for a soldering iron. You can get a good one for like 10-20 dollars. Here's the top amazon result to get you started: Full Set Vastar 60w 110v Soldering Iron Kit - Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Desoldering Pump, Stand, anti-static Tweezers and Additional Solder Tube for Variously Repaired Usage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-13Yxb3PCAPT6
I bought this cheap kit off Amazon and used it to desolder and then solder at least 200 switches.
It works quite well and you can adjust the temperature which is important.
The solder sucker included also works well enough, but is prone to clog up so I would empty it once in awhile and make sure that the tube isn't clogged full of dry solder.
There is a pretty basic soldering kit on amazon that I have been using for the last few months and it has been amazing! Ill link it to you below.
I bought this kit off Amazon for $16. Not super high quality, but I've used it for several builds with no problem.
I use a cheap ass one off Amazon that's going strong after a bunch of builds. Unless it's somehow crappier than that, I wouldn't worry about it.
I would suggest getting a switch puller if you don't have one. Often listed as an 'IC puller', it still works and it should be real cheap. There are clips at the top/bottom of the switch that hold it into the plate, a puller can release those and help pull the switch out. It makes life a lot easier.
Often I'll just heat up the legs of the switch (both at once, if you have a big enough chisel tip) and gently wiggle it out with the puller, rather than trying to use one of those crappy solder suckers to clear it all out beforehand.
Yep! I haven't gotten to use it yet (because my parts from TCSS haven't arrived yet), but I got this kit from Amazon for $15.99 and it comes with a soldering iron, a solder sucker, and some solder and it has good reviews.
Listen to me very carefully.
You are not bad at soldering.
You're soldering iron is trash ( probably ).
I really thought i was terrible TERRIBLE at soldering. I had a $10 no temperature adjustment iron, nothing to clean the head with besides wet paper towel, and bad solder.
Ironically if i had done a little bit of effort when picking an iron i would have gotten this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01712N5C4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .
That temperature adjustment makes all the difference in the world.
Between that iron and just the advice of "Solder flows onto what is hot", was enough to make my soldering go from "haha oh god don't look at it" to "haha okay that's not embarrassing and works well enough".
So yes, clearly by this wall of text i am excited for you to experience an iron that isn't total crap. Seriously though heat up the pad and/or the wire first, then touch the solder and it will wick right onto where you're trying to go. For some reason it took reading about 3 or 4 guides before i found that one sentence.
Use 350 to start on the temp, but i've started doing 400 lately.
Lastly, clean the tip of the iron between EVERY solder. if the tip doesn't look nice and silver and shiny it's not going to conduct the heat well and things won't get hot and the solder won't flow where you want and you'll get mad.
Good luck, trust me i have never written more about a $13 product in my life before, enjoy!
Yup. It's just like doing heat shrink tubing.
I'll only rewrap when it starts to look worn or off (like you have now). Usually around the positive side the ends will fray after about a year or so. Don't forget the little insulator ring on the positive side. New wraps and rings are like a buck for 10. I have a cheap hobby style heat gun I use which is handy for other things around the house also (like removing sales stickers).
Newer model of what I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X4SMRQ/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As a visual check, leaving the wrap on, I just take a good look in the light now and then when changing batteries. Mostly under the positive terminal cap thingy (don't know the proper name). Just a quick "does it look dirty or nasty under there". I figure if it is all going to go sideways on me it will be something happening there that causes a short and then excitement. :)
Yeah. It had the prime logo on it and had been labeled as the #1 best seller. I think the only issue I had with it was that the lights on it burned out very fast. But here’s the link if you haven’t seen it just in case.
Weller D550PK 260-Watt/200W Professional Soldering Gun Kit with Three Tips and Solder in Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N7S1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G1S1Y86HYEPZ350JPPRP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this cheap kit from Amazon and it's OK:
I had to buy flux, solder wick and capton tape.
I've got this one and have been very happy with it.
Check with your buddies, relatives etc to see if anyone has a solder gun. Use to use them on CRT televisions if higher power was needed. Close attention to the integrity of other nearby components is need of course so as not to cause further damage. Example at: https://www.amazon.ca/Weller-9400PKS-Universal-Soldering-Lighting/dp/B00CLU255A/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+gun&qid=1604981878&sr=8-13
I have this exact kit.
It's lasted me around 9 builds so far and it's still working fine. But I think pretty much all the cheap irons on Amazon are very similar.
Yeah, can confirm I have no clue what I'm doing! Just got my kit, and I honestly just picked one from Amazon because I don't know one from the others. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01712N5C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Should this be sufficient?
I just bought a cheap iron (not a station!!) off amazon... this. it gets the most basics things done without having any fancy temp control or anything
I miss Aldi's, I moved to the western United States and there are none out here :(, I'd love to visit one overseas though. Amazon has a relatively cheap soldering for like 11 bucks, link here so I'm going to give it a shot.
I do use Spotify Premium, I keep all of my main playlists and random albums downloaded. I had like ~30 gigs on my S8, and that was barely a dent in all my random playlists.
I'm going to tolerate the cable, but I'm excited to do my first mod. I ordered my cable from these guys as it was recommended in the modding guide.
This is the soldering iron i used to do it. Comes with everything you need.
You can buy switches from here if youre in the US. https://lethalgaminggear.com/collections/micro-switch
Or from eBay/AliExpress if you're willing to wait longer for shipping.
It's not the worst one I've ever seen, but loses out on the short lead, long grip-to-tip distance, and having it's heater cartridge comparatively far away from (ie; not built into) the tip. It's old tech.
Hmm... I do like the form factor.
I’m having a hard time not just going with a $15 shitty 60W soldering iron to do this work though... is this a terrible idea?
I just bought a cheap one off amazon for 30$ it had 1mm 60% tin 38%lead 2% flux solder included and it worked fine. Best temp is 400*C. Here’s the link since they lowered the price https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HYKOEb931EK14
I'm actually a stay-at-home dad, and yes, my wife does realize I'm the guy who gets stuff done. That's why I'm with the kids!
When I had to use the jigsaw to cut the foam, I used the shopvac, and that really helped cut down on the foam scraps, but yes, that stuff makes a huge mess.
As for the hot-wire, I actually used the gun style, like this. Iron
I took out the tip, and bent a section of copper wire to the shape I wanted, and put it in the gun.
The fumes weren't great, and I definitely tried to only do it outside, or at least have the garage door open. I wouldn't want to do it inside the house, for sure.
So, I'm going to offer my 2 cents on this one, It's a not a cleaning issue. OP, you're NOT going to solder that with a 30W iron, and you'll have a problem soldering it with a $200 80W hakko iron too.
There's too much metal in that area to heat it to the 300C that you need to solder, The only way you're going to be able to solder that is to use a high power soldering gun such as this https://www.amazon.com/Weller-D650-Industrial-Soldering-Gun/dp/B000JEGEC0 you can probably find one at a harbor freight that'll do the job too for half that price. you'll want 150W or more.
you could either try to flow into the previous joint, if there's still solder left on the brass ring, or get some sandpaper and sand it and try to flow solder onto the brass ring, then try to solder the wire to it.
edit; I'd actually reassemble it and put it on the vape shelf.. I just noticed the inductor inside the device is badly damaged too, it might work if you fix it, but it won't live a long life.
I think this makes sense to me . I realize it’s probably not best but will this iron be good enough. https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Soldering-Iron-Full-Welding/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2XVCDL8OL5RBA&keywords=guitar+solder&qid=1563930976&s=gateway&sprefix=guitar+solder%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-10
So I will first try to resolder all the connections and hopefully that works. If not I will get a little practice using the iron and buy new components. Other than the iron, are there any other materials I will need to buy. Can I reuse the attached wiring?
Well, the small stuff gets set so quickly...
I believe this is the version of ~~cheap crap~~ soldering iron I have, hopefully 60w can keep up with the heatsink? The fact that you know the number of chisel tip tells me this may yet be too difficult for me!
Not adjustable at all, and that much heat is excessive for this, and can get you in trouble quicker.
I have this kit, it's lasted me through several builds and switch swaps.
One other thing I would consider required equipment if you're going to be desoldering is a switch puller, a.k.a IC puller/extractor, to easily release the switches from the plate and pull them out. Iuno where to get it cheap in Canada, I ordered mine off AliExpress. It makes life so much easier.
This is what I recently bought off Amazon. It’s worked well and has temp adjustment and tips.
Vastar Soldering Iron Kit, Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Welding Iron Kit - Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Desoldering Pump, Stand, Anti-static Tweezers and Additional Solder Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
So far I’ve soldered splices and put on old school all solder pl-259 and crimp ons with the soldered center connector. No issues.
My advice — get this, some flux and some rosin core electronics solder. But also buy a third hand tool.
The most difficult thing I ran into was trying to get the pieces held just right and in the right position.
Your best bet is to search for an "embossing heat tool." Hair dryers push water around, whereas heat tools are higher temps with less strong winds.
Here's an example I found on Amazon. I don't have any particular recommendations, since mine is okay but not mindblowing :). I mostly use it for embossing and quickly making cards. For my artwork I get better blends if my colors fully air dry.
Ahh I see! I'll probably get some switches then! I'm also glad to hear that not all the switches need to be removed.
While I never desoldered or soldered anything in a few years, I like your way and hope that there'll be nothing in the way between the legs. When you say clean up the solder, you mean with a wick? Also, what do you think of this soldering kit?
Thanks so much for all of your help! :)
oops sorry ~! I spaced that one hard.
Personally I only use a iron + cheap sucker because it's cheap but you could look at one of the less expensive all in one's like this or you could go for the holy grail Hakko.
If you have to use staples, I would reccomend one of these. I used to use them when I ran cable for my old job. Only way you'll accidentally ruin the cable with these is if you badly misalign it and send the staple straight through the cable.
Cable Boss Staple gun
Staples for CAT6
I just did my first build with this kit, no problems at all. It's obviously not the best you can get but it worked just fine for me
I would get the Hako if money is not an issue.
But another option is to get this budget Iron and use it as your "Travel" iron also with a DC to AC power inverter.
You can keep the inverter in your bag and it plugs into any car 12v system to power AC outlet to plug in the Iron. You can fix problems in the field.
People also sometimes buy the TS100 Portable Soldering Iron.
Its better then the budget one I linked and it can be powered from a Lipo, no need for an inverter.
The Vastar Iron is not really temp controlled its only a wattage dial on it. Temp Control is really the best.
You want an Iron that can go up to 450c but usually we do stuff around 400c
The TS100 only goes up to 400c it can do things like XT60 but people say its better to have a bigger iron for when we do power leads. Sometimes more heat is needed.
I purchased this $15 Vastar after reading a recommendation somewhere on reddit. I've only used it a few times, but it's so far worked much better than the other inexpensive irons I've had.
I doubt it works as well as a $100 iron, but I haven't come across a bad review, it seems to do just fine for what I'm using it for, and I've been happy with the price.
This was my first iron, though under a different branding. It's only $16, and it has a knob you can spin that at least loosely correlates w/ the iron's temperature.
I wouldn't recommend it, though. I splurged for a Hakko FX-888D a couple of months later and haven't regretted it once. It truly is a night-and-day difference. Working with my old iron was like pulling teeth. Working with the Hakko is effortless.
I'd definitely recommend an upgrade. If you're un(willing|able) to spend $100+ on a soldering iron, I'd recommend still getting the first one I linked, along with some Hakko tips. Hakko tips are about 10-20x as expensive as their no-name counterparts, and you absolutely get what you pay for.
Easily the most frustrating part of using my first iron was how quickly the tips would oxidize, even though I kept them tinned religiously. Hakko tips, when cared for, will last indefinitely. I wouldn't be surprised if nice tips + cheap (but temperature controlled) iron got you 70% of the performance of the all-Hakko kit.
This is the exact kit I purchased. Got it on a flash sale: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4
It does have temp control. Works really well, considering how cheap it was. I am really impressed.
How bad is this, and are there better irons for under ~$30? I already have solder and only need whatever tip would be best for switches.
I needed a cheap 2nd iron recently. I bought this:
8-in-1 Soldering Iron Kit Kuman 60W with ON/OFF Switch Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Tin Wire Tube, Desoldering Pump, Stand, Anti-static Tweezers and Solder Tip Cleaning Wire w/ a Tool Case https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KTICO2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RzV.ybM81XSFD
Has everything you should need for starting out. That is a Canadian Amazon link. I'm sure it is a lot cheaper US.
I use a Cable Boss staple gun. I am actually surprised I don't see it mentioned on here... the cable stables have plastic insulators and come in different sizes.
Along with my Ikea butcher block table tops, managing cables on the underside is a breeze with this gun. They are pretty easy to pull out with pliers if you need to re-do something too.
If you have the right equipment, no damage or risk at all. But you absolutely NEED a desoldering gun to do it right.
I HIGHLY suggest you look at this guy's thread and see what equipment he used. Costs money but isn't money worth spending to do a job right?
Basically you need this:
Ive been using this kit for the last year....
The cheap models actually work pretty well if you take care of the tip and use decent solder.
If you are looking to do a lot of desoldering a small hand pump will clog up and piss you off to no end. A de soldering gun on the other hand, while expensive, will work much better. https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Contained-Desoldering-Internal-Carrying/dp/B00PGFAJWS
Buy a proto board PCB (a printed board with just a bunch of copper-lined holes in it), and some cheap components (resistors, caps) and have at it. Even better if you have a friend who might have some old stuff like that laying around. Digikey.com will have anything you need. Radioshack should too, but a bit more expensive.
And for a soldering iron if you don't have one, I recommend this one from amazon. Really good for its price and a perfect first soldering iron: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Full-110V-Soldering-Iron/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487451518&sr=8-5&keywords=soldering+iron
There are plenty of Youtube tutorial videos. It's not very hard to get the hang of, and opens up a lot more DIY projects to you.
The temp rating is right. The wattage is on the low side. but should still work.
As /u/AshuraSavarra suggested above, try some regular leaded flux core solder, maybe some extra flux while you are at it, use the chisel tip, be sure it is tight, try again on some very light wire and if that works move up to the 18 or 16 awg wire I assume you are using. If you can do the lighter wire but have difficulty with the heavier wire I would suggest an iron with higher wattage. Any of the variants of This I very highly recommend for the price.
But I think trying other solder and more flux will make a big difference.
I have been using this one for almost a year now.
Vastar Full Set 60W 110V Soldering Iron Kit - Adjustable Temperature, 5pcs Different Tips, Desoldering Pump, Stand, anti-static Tweezers and Additional Solder Tube for Variously Repaired Usage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VIZDybZSJ9ZRB
It works, I use it for SMD work and it works fine. I think I am going to get a Hakko this year, but if you just need to do basic soldering; I've used this from automotive to 3D printers to chips. I don't love it, but it works.
I would recommend getting good solder though (the solder it comes with is okay), I bought some Chinese solder and it refused to flow. You also need something to clean the tip, that kit has nothing for that.
I have the Hakko 888 and it is awesome but overkill for my needs and for most people probably.
I also have the same $18 soldering kit and agree, it is really nice functionally (the blue plastic handle is lightweight.
I had done a lot of searching after i got my Hakko and the Ayoue models are supposed to be really nice, about on par with Hakko and more affordable.
You burned up your transformers because you were drawing way more power than they were rated for.
Every load has a particular impedance at a particular frequency. No offense but it doesn't sound like you're at the level of optimizing a load for active/reactive/apparent power.
If you want to do it semi-safely, buy a variable transformer like the one I linked. Dial it down to zero, then increase the voltage slowly and measure the AC current flowing to your load while you do so. Ensure it stays below the limit of the variac and below the point your iron melts.
If you are remotely confused by any of this then DON'T DO IT. A soldering iron is something you hold in your hand - great way to get more than your recommended daily value of electricity.
Best, cheapest, and safest option.
I'm looking to get a soldering iron in order to do some small electronic projects, but I don't know much about soldering. I found this kit on Amazon that looks like it has everything I need and is fairly cheap, but I'm wondering if it would be better to get a more expensive kit. Any recommendations? Also any resources on how to solder would be helpful.
I was hoping it didn't have to come to this.
Do you think this tool would be enough for one time usage?
I'm not sure what else I can use a solder for.
https://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0 is the soldering iron im using (looking to drop $40 on an actual station because this iron is complete garbage)
and the solder im using is like 2/3rds tin 1/3rd lead, random stuff off amazon. I didn't think the solder actually mattered that much
Thanks Gavin so much!
I saw your video and got totally lost, I'm really not too good at these things. When you said cleaner for the soldering iron, what is that?
Also, I'll start getting stuff prepared before the mosfet comes in. Also quick note, it the ufet apart of the tamiya/lipo connector bit that comes out of the stock? That means I'll have to scrap the current electrical system anyway right?
edit : I'm thinking about getting this soldering iron kit on amazon for 20 USD. Is there anything I might need extra?
just curious I don't really have a lot of money to get an expensive soldering iron or solder sucker so would these two be good for the short term.
Tekpower TP13,40-Watt Soldering Station, Soldering Iron Station, Like Weller WLC100
Will This kit be OK, and this sponge be OK if I wanted to solder a 60%?j Will the solder in the kit provided be enough?
Also, isn't like, lead poisonous or something?
Non-mobile: a half decent iron runs $10
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I watched the innerfedility's video about the crack, you have any idea what are the essential tools that I need to build one? I found this on amazon just for $9 [http://www.amazon.com/60-Watts-Soldering-Iron-listed/dp/B0006NGZK0/ref=lp_13837371_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426815579&sr=1-1], is this good enough to solder the kit?
Any old iron will work. I used this $9 iron to fix my Hubsan many times.
I have a Hako now and it is MUCH nicer and easier to use but a pencil iron will get the job done for small projects like the Hubsan. If you plan on doing scratch builds or other projects that require soldering I highly suggest getting a variable temperature iron with integrated thermostat.
I live in San Francisco, and they'll take anything.
I bought a heavy duty soldering gun and just filled the Allen bolts of my expensive bike with solder. Pain in the ass to get it out of there for repairs, but no one can lift anything off the bike. In 5 years I've only had to desolder a couple of bolts.
Buy regular heavy duty pipe solder, and you'll need a desoldering braid to get it out of there, the pumps were worthless. Buy the braid with the gun, when you need it, you need it in a hurry.
Removal is holding the braid against the solder and holding the gun to the braid. The braid wicks up the solder. Not a quick process, but it comes out clean.
This solution requires a soldering iron, which i currently do not own. Cheapest on amazon i can find is this. I have no skills in soldering but a reviewer of the product you linked said it was fairly simple to do. I'll keep this option open.
dad taught me using one of those bigass soldering guns because it was all we had.
i still have nightmares about trying to surface mount chips with it.