The best Straight Router Bits: Reddit reviews

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Just got stuck in the workpiece—I cut waaay too deep. This is the set, if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KSOOLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UMYhzbHH2WF4G

There seems to be a bigger set on Amazon for $30 now, though.

I basically followed the Wood Whisperer's video:

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/flattening-workbenches-and-wide-boards-with-a-router/

I used this bit from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7CY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$30-ish, a good bit (groan) cheaper than the $50+ bits that were only .25" wider.

It worked well- I built the jig in an hour or so, made the rails flat using my benchtop jointer in maybe 30 minutes, and then it took me probably 2.5-3 hours to do all the flattening. I have a huge benchtop- about 34" deep by 90" wide... and it was easier to do a pass that was only half of the width of the bit, so it was probably 125-ish passes back and forth... plus moving the clamps around a bit, vacuuming up the wood shavings (it makes a TON of shavings, I was taking off roughly 1/4" on average from my entire benchtop), etc. But, all in all, not too bad and my benchtop is quite flat now.

I'm not sure which set you were looking at, B&B sells several. In general, I'm not a fan of bit sets, especially large ones; you always end up with bits you don't use. I also think that it's worth buying high quality router bits. Amana and Whiteside are my two favorites. This is a decent starter set that will do a wide variety of things, plus they're excellent bits that will last. After that, get new bits as new projects demand.

If you really want more variety, you could get a cheap set to experiment with, then as you wear out bits you use, replace them with better quality bits.

I used the below cable. You need to update the speed setting on the port (11) in the UDMP.

SFP+ DAC Twinax Cable, Passive, Compatible with Ubiquiti UniFi ES-48/ES-16-XG/USW-Pro-24-POE/USW-Pro-48-POE/US‑16‑XG/US‑48, 0.3 Meter(1ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q7QW6KC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HBXYKGQ745C2S1DRW2Y6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm running these: SFP+ DAC Twinax Cable, Passive, Compatible with Ubiquiti UniFi ES-48/ES-16-XG/USW-Pro-24-POE/USW-Pro-48-POE/US‑16‑XG/US‑48, 0.3 Meter(1ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q7QW6KC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ST4NF8ZP14VG8X84Y370?psc=1

I think you're looking for one of these.. Instead of a bearing, it just has an unsharpened nubbin on the end.

Ignore the picture of a dado; that's clearly incorrect.

You should get a bowl bottom bit for a router. It has a flat bottom that will lead to a nice finish unlike a cove bit.

A word of caution, a lock miter bit requires a router table and, even then, is very frustrating to use if it doesn't have a lift. If you want some good starter bits Whiteside has a some small kits with variety. They are the best bits I've ever used and I wish I could go back and not spend my money on all of the cheaper bits I've bought over time.

Whiteside bits

I’ll be honest, I’m still very much a novice at this.

The whole thing was done using an Amana Tool RC-45711 90 degree vcarve bit: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003DCMDRU/ using the default settings within the vcarve software.

I used to use a couple of cheaper vcarve bits, but they weren’t very sharp, and ripped the wood rather than cut it.

If you’re interested in my process, I wrote a blog post about it: https://maker.rip/2021/02/22/from-idea-to-fruition/

I use a DAC cable to connect the UDMP to the USW-24-PoE. More specifically, this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Q7QW6KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1. I like that it is slightly shorter than other DAC cables, so looks less messy. The two devices auto-negotiated a 10 Gbps rate. No need for manual settings.

Those are good routers. I have a couple in rotation.

For bits, whiteside are my favorites, but freud, cmt, amana are also good. MLCS are decent starter bits, but do not stay sharp for long.

A great starter set is the freud 13 piece set. Not cheap, but a very capable set. I'd a 1/4" spiral upcut for mortising and a 1/4" roundover. Maybe an 1/8" roundover too.

I recently picked this up, and it’s what inspired me to want to make a tray similar to yours. It works great for this application because it has the flat cutting bottom edge as well as the cove edge for the corners, etc. It’s made for stuff like this!

Whiteside Router Bits 1372B Bowl... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2C7FO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thanks! I used a router, and a bowl&tray bit, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-1372B-Bowl/dp/B000K2C7FO

I used some mdf board as a jig, which I cut out with a jig saw and got as straight an edge as possible. Then clamped it above the walnut and used this bit with the tracing bearing.

Thanks for the link but that doesn't quite do what I am looking for. There is no template bearing on the top and no flat section on the bottom of the bit.

I am looking for something like this but with a radius bigger than 1/4". Here you can see all the ones offered by Freud and all have that same 1/4" or smaller.

1/2" is definitely better than 1/4".

As far as router bit sets - I'm generally not a fan of the big sets. You'll get way more than you need, and the bits aren't very high quality.

Do yourself a favor and invest in high quality bits for the basic profiles. Whiteside's 401 set is a great place to start: https://smile.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-401-2-Inch/dp/B000AM31QI/

knife and then sanding could work, or something like this if your recess is 1/8" deep or more.

Which design is that looks like RS drivers?

I've used a similar setup to finish end grain slices and gotten best results from a 1 3/4” Freud straight bit. Shallow passes with the bit's big cutting area leaves a pretty smooth finish. Minimal sanding (think 15 mins with ROS) to get rid of faint lines.

Also, make sure the wood itself isn't moving at all. That can produce gouges.

Freud 1-3/4 In. Diameter by ¾ In. Double Flute Straight Router Bit with ½" Shank (12-194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rtZHzbA2T2QG2

I've found this bit to be the key to trimming the veneer out of the driver holes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2G69M/

I'll cut as close to the edges as I can with a utility knife and then clean it up with that. Just don't push too hard or it will eat into your material.

I got the 15 piece Hitex set for less than $20. They seem to be working fairly well - haven't sent more than 100 feet of wood through any of them yet though.

I assume I'll mess them up sooner or later as I'm starting out too, but it's a pretty cheap set, so no real loss. I literally had bits come loose and fly off the router before I realized that I needed to really tighten up the collet too ...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KSOOLI/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bD4kJ_g469_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=DXPDQ1W2HBGTWW78PK73&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=7771a85c-b1fb-5864-a037-c5d8ffd938b4&pf_rd_i=3116511

Just buy these. You'll use them a lot since plywood is most often tightly shoved in housing joints.

I think in Vcarve there's a command to smooth lines. I found that taking out nodes helps a lot, especially for converted images.

Unfortunately, all my bits are sized in inches, so I don't have any metric suggestions. I did have excellent results in Amana's insert bit, which may be close enough shank sized to work. (If you do get this bit, it's a tad fiddly to get aligned.)

If you want, I'll try to dig up my files for the trivets I did.

edit: fiddly bit alignment jig - https://i.imgur.com/nQeSQbM.jpg

I might try to salvage this piece as it's the second time I've built the back part. The first time I made my cuts too short. What can I say, I'm a beginner that bit off more than I can chew. Live and learn.

As to the second point I'll probably get something that matches closer to the dimension of the plywood. This set is what I had my eyes on, which seems to be in line with what you're suggesting.

If you want to do v-carves, I bought this Amana insert bit off Amazon that works great, with the caveat that you have to make a jig to align the damn thing. I'll upload pics tomorrow.

It's effectively a CNCRP 8020 2x4' build with a Bosch 1617evs router. Cuts were done with an Amana v-groove bit.