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One last thing you should do- put a cat6 lightning arrestor on each end of the cable and ground it properly. So the cable come in the wall, then to the lightning arrestor, then to the router.
Reason why- when you have a lightning storm, a lightning strike nearby throws out tons of EMP (electromagnetic energy) in all directions. A long Cat6 cable ran outdoors absorbs this like an antenna, generating voltages that can reach into the hundreds, frying devices on each end. The lightning arrestors prevent that.
I personally use fiber optic cable for all building-building links for that reason- non conductive = no possibility of surges.
This is what i used, it will make you more popular
10 foot cord version also available for $31.67 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000HPX46U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Smart power strip. TV plugs into control outlet. Then when TV is turned on, all devices plugged into the switched outlets will get powered.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JPDYYSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t8PxFb0A6F3R7
You should look into this type of surge protector. It will power off your Roku when you turn off your TV.
Many monitors automatically go into a low-power "standby" mode when they receive no video signal.
If yours doesn't, consider plugging the PC and monitor into a "green" or "advanced" power strip with automatically controlled outlets.
Get one of these and install it outside at the entry point and run another cable inside the house, you can also ground it, doesn’t hurt. This will make your life easier if you ever need to replace the dish. Use bushings wherever you enter, there are plenty of options you can get on Amazon to make it neat inside. Tupavco TP303 Ethernet Surge Protector Outdoor for PoE+ Gigabit 1000Mbs - LAN Network Thunder Lightning Surge Protection Suppressor/Arrester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008060BU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y5YDQ9TQD7DD54YKA0FV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That surge protector isn't designed to handle the amount of power Dishy requires. You'll end up frying the surge protector and possibly damaging your Dishy or its power supply.
I've seen this protector mentioned in another post and it supports up to 100W POE++.
As mentioned by another poster this isn't recommended due to how much power is being sent through the cable. I've looked for premade cables that would handle the amount of power being sent to the Dishy, but there's nothing I'm comfortable recommending.
The only way I would consider doing this would be with shielded, solid-core, heavy-gauge ethernet cable. None of the premade cables on Amazon came anywhere close to meeting these requirements. I could make one myself, but I keep a 1000ft spool of carrier-grade ethernet cable in stock for outdoor POE camera installs. That spool alone costs $180. In addition to that you would need a high-quality crimp tool ($80-100) and shielded ethernet connectors ($60-70 for a 50 pack). I would also want to test it with a high-quality meter to make sure the crimps on both ends are good, and those meters can run several hundred dollars. Needless to say even I wouldn't do this due to the amount of power involved.
As much as I recommend surge protectors for outdoor antennas and always install one whenever possible, Dishy's power requirements make it really hard to do correctly. My advice would be to only plug the power supply for the Dishy into the outlet and keep any high-value items such as appliances and electronics on another circuit if possible. If your house is wired correctly you should have nothing to worry about, but unfortunately that's not always the case.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Protection-SurgeArrest-Performance-P11VT3/dp/B0012YLTR6/
Apc has always been my go to. Not sure if they offer insurance with theirs but I've been using this model for years. Power has gone out a couple times, I've also over powered the circuit multiple times with an air conditioner. Not sure how much protection the surge protector actually provided vs the power supply or the system itself protecting itself but so far I've never had to reinstall windows or had any hardware failures.
How about a lowish-tech way to do it? You can get power strips that have a "primary" outlet that, depending on how much power its pulling, turns on/off a couple others: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B002K8S2J6 - My only concern is that if the tv power draw doesn't change much from "off" to "on" it may be hard to tune it in just right.
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Not exactly an IOT solution, but if you care more about reliability than remotely controlling the receiver, this may work pretty well :) I used to install these in some public schools to kill the monitors if the tower was turned off.
I highly recommend these
Furman Power Conditioner (SS6B) black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002D017M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_A1XJAXTGQ9FC3J5YXQ7B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are the best bang for the buck and offer line conditioning
You can run down the wire on the side and install one of these Tupavco TP303 Ethernet Surge Protector Outdoor for PoE+ Gigabit 1000Mbs - LAN Network Thunder Lightning Surge Protection Suppressor/Arrester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008060BU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XG7D2S66KE155KJ4MPQF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 on the outside where the router will be inside… not a bad idea to ground it anyway… run a short cable i inside instead of the one on the dish… this was all you have to do is plug it out if you upgrade your RV.
This question was asked a few years ago. There was a negative response then. What was suggested was this USB adaptor https://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-3-Outlet-SurgePlus-Protector-BST300/dp/B00ATZJ5YS which gave USB and rotates to get you around positioning issues. It's pricey at $32, you may find something else you like.
I looked about 6 months ago and also came up empty handed for a place where they wanted one outlet switched. Good luck on your search.
The monitor would have to be powered by its own power cord as you wouldn't want to power that off the power supply but the marquee & amp could always be powered by the pc. The monitor would turn itself off and on automatically when it detects the pc turns on/off so you wouldn't have to manually power it on/off anyways.
You can get a power saving surge protector which will turn on/off the other devices when the pc powers on/off like this one or this one. You would just plug the pc into the control outlet and the devices you want to turn on/off with it on the switched outlets.
You will still want to use that momentary power switch I linked to turn on/off the pc itself vs slapping an external power button somewhere on the cab if you want to have it all function like the stock power switch does.
The two 5P550R's at the bottom of the rack protect everything in the rack on the electrical side. I have an ethernet surge protector between the rack and the AT&T fiber termination (located in a separate smart panel.)
Yeah it couldn’t hurt to get a Furman (I have this one Furman Power Conditioner, Plug, black, Standard Strip (SS6B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002D017M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T8JZ974FNDSSJ9MF7KEN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and I think it’s good value)
But isolated power will probably be your best bet.
A trickle star power strip has "always on", "control" and"switched" power outlets. Plug devices that will be turned off after use such as your TV, into the control outlet. Plug devices that need constant power like a router, into the always on plug. Plug devices that should be shut off when the control outlet device turns off like your sound system into the switched outlets. I got this from Xcel energy but I'm sure there are other smart power switches out there these days.trickle star power strip
If you do go with copper though, you could consider something like this to protect from lightning hazards - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tupavco-Ethernet-Protector-Gigabit-1000Mbs-Black-Silver/dp/B00805VUD8, perhaps at both ends of the cable.
As far as a surge protector, I use this https://www.amazon.com/APC-P11VT3-Performance-SurgeArrest-Protection/dp/B0012YLTR6. You should contact the manufacturer of your surge protector to see if it was a faulty protector.
As far as brands for tvs to get, there was a post recently about top brands. I'd look there and gather a consensus. Though, at the 35"-42", there will be a feature parity between most brands which is to say not too many features. That's kind of good for you because you can safely look through the 2015 models on Amazon Warehouse or something similar and get more bang for your buck since cutting edge features aren't really something you'll be checking in the box.
Here is the exact one from Amazon, listed at 3020 joules.
APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector 3020 Joules with Telephone, DSL and Coaxial Protection, SurgeArrest Performance (P11VT3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YLTR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Rs3GzbXAHG2R8
This is great. Only thing is the price is throwing me off. Either Amazon is low balling the original price or Newegg is jacking up the regular to make the sale price more appealing..
Either way I'm getting this. Thank you OP!
Haven't seen any. Only thing I found compatible with dash charge and not made by 1+ was a battery bank on Amazon that was OOS last time I checked.
Edit: I'm assuming you have more than one 1+ device, may I suggest something like this?
I've owned a few for a few years, haven't had one fail yet. They're convenient and seem good quality.
First resuilt on Amazon:
Look for EMI/RFI noise attenuation
I've used these. The key is the ground wire needs to go to your main utility ground rod at the electral service entrance. Ideally each home run, but that sometimes isn't easily doable. Running to copper water pipe that is usually bonded to ground somewhere is another option. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008060BU0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_6gngFbR7MAQ1B
No need to reinvent the wheel on this one, people have been doing this for over two decades, trusted solutions are out there. I had a full sized cab, and I converted a cheap Arcade1up cab, but I ditched the full size cab down the road in favor of a pedestal style arcade control panel that I can hook up to any display I want (you can actually see it here in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/transformers/comments/is5ypx/man_cave_mostly_complete/ )
For one, don't use an xbox controller for this, just buy an I-Pac2 or a MiniPac. There are several frontends that people use, all depending on preference and how much time you're willing to spend to set them up. There's Hyperspin which could easily take a day to set up but looks amazing, there's Launchbox (and the premium BigBox mode) that's simpler, but hasv it's own setup wrinkles, but I prefer RetroFE. I had that up and running inside an hour.
Mount your PC mobo to one of the panels in the wood, along with your power supply. Make sure nothing is touching anything metal, this should only be attached to the wood. Use a trickle star outlet like this one to control what powers up when you start the PC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPDYYSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Parts are easy enough to find on Amazon these days, although if you really want quality parts, you need to shop at Paradise Arcade, Focus Attack, or Groovy Game Gear. I've had good experiences with all three.
Similar setup with the X950. I wound up getting a TrickleStar Advanced PowerStrip that senses whether the control device (such as a TV) is either on, off, or in a standby state, and automatically removes and restores supplied power to the switched outlets based on the status of the control device.
Got it on Amazon here. Works like a charm.
It's rated up to 1200w, so careful on how much you power. The power was bad enough my PS4 would randomly reboot and after putting this into my chain it hasn't had any issues since. Even ran my kill-a-watt meter on it to see what it did to voltages and it does a good job of cleaning everything up.
I feel like I'm missing something. What would you need a dedicated switch for in this case?
If the switch box automatically switches over to the tube amp when it's powered and the power strip senses if the tube amp is powered on, and then automatically switches on the outlet for the switch box, it seem like just switching the tube amp on or off directly at it's own power switch should also trigger power for the switch box, thereby fully accomplishing your initial goal.
Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/APC-P8GT-Power-Saving-SurgeArrest-Protection/dp/B002K8S2J6/
Just make sure whatever power strip you buy has adjustable sensitivity for the power on detection on the master outlet.
You probably just need to plug the light into a power filter, This powerstrip claims at least 20dB of EMI reduction at 100kHz-1MHz, the inverters use 144kHz so it should be pretty effective at reducing the effects of the light.
That company makes a lot of power filters that should be even better if you need it.