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The Inkbird ITC-308 is the go-to for a lot of us around here. And it's cheaper than the one you linked to. I've got one myself, and it hasn't let me down yet.
I see plenty of fridges sold as "garage ready" which I thought meant that they worked in temps from 0 to 100 or something. If you already have a fridge, I would recommend a programmable temperature controller like this: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=programmable+temperature+controller&qid=1607138038&sprefix=programmable+temperature&sr=8-3 Hook it up to a incandescent lightbulb in the fridge with the temperature probe in there too. Set the fridge temp for 36 and the temp controller for 34, or something like that. On cold days the controller will cycle the light on to keep the fridge above freezing, on warm days the fridge will keep itself cool.
As a motorcycle racer, we pay a lot of attention to track temps b/c we get different tires depending on the heat. I have my IR surface temp thermometer for reading tire and track temperatures
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Itc-308-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B01MDSWXY4
Pretty sure this is what you are looking for. Plug this I go the wall, set your temp range, put the probe into the keezer (some people put it into a water bottle so you are getting the liquid temps in the keezer), then plug your keezer into the cold side of the ink bird
> 40 gal screen top tank
> No thermostat as there is a thick layer of substrate in the tank
/r/ballpython 's worse nightmare. Haha
I see you live in Southern (?) Florida, that's a huge reason why you haven't had an issue keeping the way you have. Decent on/off thermostats like this Inkbird are so cheap there's pretty much no reason not to have one. Check out /r/ballpythons sticky thread. I'm sure you can agree that even if you haven't had an issue in all this time that there's always room for improvement. Here's to 20 more!
Just a heads-up: Thermoworks products are top-of-the-line for consumer kitchen thermometers, but the only major benefit over cheaper products is the speed to report an accurate temp. But speed isn't an issue with cheaper IR thermometers because IR is an instant reading. Get yourself a $15 IR thermometer on Amazon; it's just as good as Thermoworks for IR.
>ITC-308
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Fermentation/dp/B015E2UFGM/
Your local Brew Store might carry a temp controller, give them a call!
Pick up a temp controller, like the popular Inkbirk ITX-308. Inexpensive and works great for both heating and cooling. I tape the probe to the side of my fermenter for more accurate temps.
I had this problem and solved it by putting a duct fan at the furthest vent hooked up to a temperature controlled outlet inside the duct.
Oddly enough, I picked up this one about a week ago. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837ZGRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But I got it because my kid got a pet snake for his b-day and we need to make sure its enclosure is the right temp! I have one of those Himalayan salt blocks that was a present, so thanks for the reminder that I need to use it. The temp. gun is easy to use and seems to work well, I just can't vouch for its utility in cooking yet.
What are you going to cook on your block?
I've been researching this and I've come to the conclusion that EVERY SINGLE AVAILABLE HEATER has the problem where it can get stuck "on" and boil your fish. Just look at Amazon reviews. It's rare but it happens with every one.
So for my new tank I'm getting a separate temperature controller. The heater will plug into it, and it has its own temperature probe, and if the heater gets stuck on then the controller will still regulate the temperature. this one seems to be good, I'm sure there are others.
I just ordered an Eheim Jager heater. I've had nothing but good luck with these, but check the reviews again -- someone has had one nuke a tank. So better safe than sorry, spend $30 and get a controller.
Also, get a low-wattage heater if you can get away with it (2-3 watts per gallon.) Whether that works depends on the climate control in your house. Some people recommend two half-wattage heaters so that if one of them freaks out it isn't powerful enough to hurt much.
That AC is broken. You should temp the air coming out of the vents, it should be in the '50's mid-range.
You should always use smile.amazon.com! Same price, same everything, except 0.5% of your purchase goes to the charity of your choice!
They're actually only about $18 on Amazon.
I just got this one off amazon and so far so good. Really easy to install and setup
Inkbird Itc-308 Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat, 2-stage, 1100w, w/ Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011296704/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-L1MAbC4EPRYM
Plug your mat into an Inkbird and you can control the temperature. I like to wrap my mat around the fermenter for even better control.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_258VY924AZ07TH68W990?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This controller is made just for that. If you plug the chest freezer into it, it will keep the temp at whatever you set it. Only $15
Ink bird 12v digital and 100amp relay found on amazon/ebay
Wow that really sucks. It sounds like you hit on the most likely culprit: the cooktop gets too hot or heats the pan too fast. If it is still flaking off just on medium low heat that means the damage was probably already done on an earlier attempt to cook…all the seasoning was weakened and is coming off over time. I’d suggest using an IR thermometer to understand the temperature range and timing of your new cooktop. You know you don’t want the temp much over 500 F max, and the temp should climb slowly to get there. If the Temps look normal then there might be another culprit. I’d use a Cainmail scrubber to knock off any seasoning that’s willing to come off with a good scrub and then reseason with flax oil. The flax oil is controversial because some claim it flakes over time but I had pans that were flaking around the edges chronically and flax oil solved it for me. I’m certain you can make this work with just a little experimentation. Good luck!
There could be a problem but the motors being very hot to the touch isn't always a bad thing as they can handle very high temps. Do you have an IR thermometer to get a general idea of how hot they are?
A side note to anyone who doesn't have an IR thermometer, I very much suggest one. They may not be extremely precise but they regularly come in handy. Amazon one for $15: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/
If you’re truly setting up your kitchen for prep, eliminate the standup refrigerator, convert another chest freezer into a chest fridge with a $35 part off amazon
This should be a significant power savings.
Honestly you're better off just getting an Inkbird temp controller they are so cheap at this point, and if you've got no experience it's kind of a no-brainer. Not sure where you are but you can check out this Amazon link. I think I picked mine up on sale for 25? I'd give you tips on the DIY part, but obviously I just bought this guy. I would probably just help you start a fire.
They make temperature controllers for this kind of thing. You’ll put a probe in the fridge (ideally inside something like a small glass of water to prevent drastic temp swings when you open the door), and plug the fridge into it and it will literally just unplug the fridge when it reaches whatever temp you set.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4XAQ3V8MQ1B2FTVVF46P
Get a chest freezer with a temperature controller outlet thermostat & set the temp to whatever you need for cool & dry. I live in Floriduh and it works great.
It depends on what depth you’re going for. If you’re just looking for basically surface temp get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dlT1_Z6SRGAQ40WPYS82B2HYX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ps. I would say a quality meat thermometer is going to be more accurate than a random low cost thermometer meant for other purposes.
I keg in a chest freezer- both beer and booch. I use the Inkbird ITC-308 and it’s great. It has an app so you can monitor and control temp from your smartphone. And it’s pretty cheap.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Y3ncGbCQM4JMP
As long as you stay above 60 F you shouldn't have to worry about diacetyl as long as you keep it on the yeast long enough for fermentation to reach completion and all the byproducts have a chance to get cleaned up.
Yes, you can use a thermostat on a fridge. Check out the inkbird temperature controller here
You should ferment at around 10c. If you're making a 5 gallon batch, make sure to pitch at least 2 packs of yeast.
I get the feeling you're just using your fridge's internal controls to measure the temperature. Instead, I would recommend picking up a temperature controller and tape the probe to the outside of your fermentation vessel. It will cycle your fridge on/off to hold your beer at your precise fermentation temperature.
If just kept at ambient temps, your beer will actually ferment warmer than ambient (probably 4-10 degrees F warmer). Temp swings up and down as fermentation ramps up and tapers off can be detrimental to your yeast performance.
Get yourself an inkbird temp controller from Amazon. It's by far the cheapest prebuilt controller and works wonderfully. I have one and have no complaints. here
Have you measure the temperature of your hotend with some external measurement source? I picked up a cheap IR thermometer from Amazon while I was building my Mendel90, and it had been super useful in the "should I touch that yet" department.
It could be that your thermistor is improperly installed, causing your hotend to not be as hot as you think it is.
Here's my el-cheapo IR thermometer: Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃～380℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GjrTyb6KAX0F6