Yep, including uranium ore. I actually bought that for a friend of mine. Back when we were roommates, he would constantly be getting packages, so it started to become a running joke somehow of telling him that one of the bombs (packages) he ordered came. So, I decided, why not give him the gift of a nuclear bomb? And thus came the present of uranium ore being sent to a guy I texted many times saying his “bombs” arrived. If he isn’t on a watchlist by now because of me, the government is really failing at this whole surveillance thing.
Unrefined uraninum ore is pretty safe and can be purchased on amazon. I'd suggest putting it in a vial of water to eliminate particulates though.
The Inkbird ITC-308 is the go-to for a lot of us around here. And it's cheaper than the one you linked to. I've got one myself, and it hasn't let me down yet.
It sounds like some of the outlets might have a reversed hot/neutral. Get a cheap outlet tester to find out. And a pigtail adapter to test the 2-prong outlets. Fixing it is pretty simple if you are comfortable working with wiring.
I see plenty of fridges sold as "garage ready" which I thought meant that they worked in temps from 0 to 100 or something.
If you already have a fridge, I would recommend a programmable temperature controller like this: [link]
Hook it up to a incandescent lightbulb in the fridge with the temperature probe in there too. Set the fridge temp for 36 and the temp controller for 34, or something like that. On cold days the controller will cycle the light on to keep the fridge above freezing, on warm days the fridge will keep itself cool.
You can still buy Uranium ore on Amazon if you want - probably about the same level as was in this kit.
It's great for experminets with geiger counters (as you can see in the 'people also bought' list).
> 40 gal screen top tank
> No thermostat as there is a thick layer of substrate in the tank
/r/ballpython 's worse nightmare. Haha
I see you live in Southern (?) Florida, that's a huge reason why you haven't had an issue keeping the way you have. Decent on/off thermostats like this Inkbird are so cheap there's pretty much no reason not to have one. Check out /r/ballpythons sticky thread. I'm sure you can agree that even if you haven't had an issue in all this time that there's always room for improvement. Here's to 20 more!
>Uranium that was given was most likely used to add to Russia's nuclear weapons arsenal.
You do realize that what was sold where Uranium mining rights, right? It's not weaponsgrade, it's not even torn out of the ground yet. In addition, uranium ore is not scarce, you can buy it on the open market.
Hell, you can buy it on Amazon
Russia gained nothing out of this for their weapon programs.
Just to prove how easy it is to obtain uranium, you can literally buy it on amazon. It’s commonly sold for testing instruments.
Get yourself a pair of these (if you don't already):
Then you just measure and model. Look at the basic shape first and model the basic shape. Then add (and subtract) as necessary.
I find using OpenSCAD a little easier for duplicating a real world part because you can use variables and fine tune with variable values rather than having to redraw something. (in OpenSCAD you write code instead of click-to-draw).
3D scanning would also be an option if you have that setup (been meaning to print a 3d scanning rig...couple of good options on thingiverse)
Get an outlet tester. If this wasn't a problem before, I suspect somebody did a shitty job wiring up your place. If the wiring is faulty... umm... I'm not sure how to fix it but, technically, it should be your landlord's problem but things might not work that way in Indonesia.
I wouldn't plug in the PC until you've got that figured out unless you're OK with with frying your computer to get in a few more rounds of DOTA.
Look up "scoping the change key hole" for more
The important information is on page 61 and 62.
I have done this. Took me 4 hours. Drill a small hole for a scope below where you think the bottom of the locking door ends with a couple inches to spare, maybe 5" below the top of the door. Preferably in an inconspicuous spot. Bend and insert the scope, angle up and hope the change key hole isn't covered by a plate. The follow the process in the above link to determine the combo, then use that combo to open the safe.
Mine had a 2nd door below that needed a key. You could always pick that too if you have one. Or just cut the whole thing off.
1) Run a humidifier in the room you spend the most time in and your bedroom when you sleep. Seriously, this is a fucking lifesaver in the cold. Cold air dries out the air which triggers asthma. Humidified cold air will not affect you at all.
2) Take OTC antihistamines every day (claritin, zyrtec, allegra, whatever works for you). Also helps stop your lungs from releasing histamines in response to the dry air when you can't be in a humidified room.
If you take antihistamines just make sure they don't conflict with whatever meds you're already taking for your cold. Another thing about humidifiers, humidity of over 55% can increase the growth of mold in your room. If you're running a humidifier it's worth it to invest in a cheap humidity monitor for your room. I just bought this one for $10 [link]
Pick up a temp controller, like the popular Inkbirk ITX-308. Inexpensive and works great for both heating and cooling. I tape the probe to the side of my fermenter for more accurate temps.
you could always get something like this: [link]
lets you know if your outlets are properly grounded. once you find the bad ones, you can work on tieing in new wiring for grounding in rooms that have sensitive electronics you don't want fried.
I bought this one this past year.
Works good. You can take photos, videos with their app.
And in case you run out of battery mid-use, you can also use it while it is plugged in via USB charging.
I had this problem and solved it by putting a duct fan at the furthest vent hooked up to a temperature controlled outlet inside the duct.
If the GFCI resets and the test button works it should be okay. You can get a simple tester at the local big box stores or online if you want to confirm externally from the test button.
If the circuit breaker reset it also should be okay.
So it would seem both devices did what they were supposed to do when a fault occurred. Go team!
I'd plug something else (um, inexpensive) into that GFCI, both outlet holes, and wiggle it around a bit to see if anything happens. You want to rule out something like a loose wire in the box behind the outlet cover isn't to blame.
If that test passes, then you're left with sparks, popping noise, and smell burnt electronics on the EVSE. Yeah, I'm not sure I'd be willing to trust it on my car again.
You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.
basking light isnt required and thermostat for heating pad is 100% required you will burn your snake without one. thermostat also shows you temps and accuirite makes hydrometer and thermometer . and 2 hides is required one on hot other on the cool side.
just to be clear a basking light will kill your humidity so it can actually be bad but depends on where you live also
Just FYI, energy wise this will be equivalent of turning the thermostat down a few degrees to meet the required temperature upstairs. You can accomplish the same thing by getting a cheap thermometer and finding out what set temperature you need downstairs to reach the desired temperature upstairs.
Here is an example of how relatively non controlled natural uranium is. And in a country like India with lax mining and supply chain enforcement, I doubt it’d be much difficult to just pick some of it off of the ground near a mine.
For any use related to nuclear physics (including power generation or building a bomb) it’d require isotopic enrichment, which is a really difficult and expensive industrial process.
Mind I ask, what was your thought process in coming up with “terrorism angle”? You accuse me of only being able to see religious angle, but would you have said the same thing if none of the accused had Muslim name?
ok.. please.. tell us how many laws are being violated.. the protocols being breached?
..or are there reduced restrictions for small quantities of low grade materials?
amazon has nuclear material for calibration purposes.
(the things stolen were calibration disks)
about the only restriction.. not eligible for Prime.
Radioactive sample of uranium ore.
The ore sample material is Naturally Occurring Radioactive Materials (NORM).
Counts Per Minute (CPM) activity rate listed on the label is determined using a GCA-07W Digital Geiger Counter that has an NRC certification. Activity level includes all radiation types: alpha, beta and gamma. Uranium Ore samples are useful for testing Geiger Counters.
License exempt. Uranium ore sample size and CPM activity will vary. Shipped in labeled metal container as shown.
Shipping Information: We are always in compliance with Section 13 from part 40 of the NRC Nuclear Regulatory Commission rules and regulations and Postal Service regulations specified in 49 CFR 173.421 for activity limits of low level radioactive materials. The item is shipped in accordance with Postal Service activity limits specified in Publication 52. Radioactive minerals are for educational and scientific use only. Images SI Inc., manufacturing electronic instruments and kits for over 25 years.
Please note: Pictures of Geiger counters testing uranium ore sample and other picture(s) of nuclear equipment sold by Images SI Inc. are not included with uranium ore.
Resources they have available isn't a problem at this point in the story, because of Coil. Untraceable firearms are a non-issue when one is willing to wait a few days, and (at least in post-9/11 Earth Aleph), uranium is available on Amazon.
As for mentality, I'd understand if this was Regent or Bitch's power, but Grue is pretty diligent, and Tattletale is all about information. Getting a more detailed understanding of a teammate's power seems like something they would... well, get around to eventually.
I think it's fine. Personally I think people put too much worry in the cheap outlets. I have had very few go bad through the years and changing an outlet really only takes a few minutes, but that's me. I'd buy whatever bulk pack on Amazon has good ratings (more ratings than HD/Lowes) and be done.
Here's a good tester that's cheap:
Haha you can find Uranium just walking around outside, he wouldn't be able to make anything at all with it. It's little more than a bit of rock really. You can buy Uranium on Amazon. [link]
Dude, the whole fucking point of a Raspberry Pi is to LEARN things about how computers work.
There are plenty of cheap multimeters out there. Here's a cheap DMM on Amazon for ten bucks. I have seen cheaper ones at Harbor Freight and on sites like Banggood.
A DMM is only a single use item if you have zero intention of LEARNING things, which from your bitching here is a serious possibility. I completely agree with /u/WindWalkerWhoosh that you're acting incredibly entitled, and now over-the-top rude with your ingratitude.
If you don't want to LEARN about computing, you just want other internet strangers to wave their magic wands and fix something with zero diagnostic data, then go buy another Raspberry Pi and get lost.
i bought one similar - stupid handy to have around. A non wifi flexible version is like $16 on amazon.
A loose standoff wouldn't cause that. The voltage inside the computer isn't high enough to feel on dry skin.
You either have a malfunctioning power supply, or there's an issue with the AC power circuitry in your house. You might want to start with buying a cheap outlet tester (if you're not in North America, look locally for one designed for your outlets) to show if something is backwards or disconnected. If the outlet is good, replace the power supply (either under warranty, or with a higher-quality model). If the outlet shows problems, talk to an electrician.
How easy is it to get Uranium in the United States? Pretty damn easy considering you can buy the stuff on Amazon.
Your professor seems to have fallen into the classic liberal trap of talking about how EASY it is to get Uranium, instead of how HARD it is to make it weapons grade.
Uranium starts out as yellowcake Uranium, which is .07% U-235 and 99.3% U-238. Reactors typically enrich the U-235 to about 1-5%. Nuclear bombs REQUIRE a U-235 enrichment of above 90%. Below 20% enrichment, Uranium it is PHYSICALLY IMPOSSIBLE FOR URANIUM TO EXPLODE.
Enrichment is typically done using the Gasseous Diffusion and Gas Centrifuge methods, both of which require large, obvious, expensive facilities that can be easily tracked.
Is it easy to get Uranium? You bet your fucking ass it is. But it's nigh on IMPOSSIBLE to enrich it to atomic bomb levels secretly.
I just got this one off amazon and so far so good. Really easy to install and setup
Inkbird Itc-308 Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat, 2-stage, 1100w, w/ Sensor [link]
Plug your mat into an Inkbird and you can control the temperature. I like to wrap my mat around the fermenter for even better control.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W [link]
Some bikes have a separate flasher for four ways, and as you mentioned, are down there by the battery under the seat, little black square things. You can feel it clicking when you run the turn signals and you’ll feel it buzzing when you try to run your four ways. Remove the relay (should pull right out) and check the connections for corrosion, consider replacing it. Also you need a multi meter to check the charge status on your battery because if your bike isn’t running, the battery might not have enough power to run your four ways properly. You need a digital multimeter, I recommend one like this.
This controller is made just for that. If you plug the chest freezer into it, it will keep the temp at whatever you set it. Only $15
Ink bird 12v digital and 100amp relay found on amazon/ebay
Curious why you're both pig tailing and using all the terminals on the outlets? Do one or the other, not both. Also, what kind of tester do you have? Just one that detects a current or an actual receptacle tester like this?
In order to properly figure this out, you need to find where the line comes in to the room. Start there, hook up the outlet, turn the power back on and trace it to find the next electrical box with power.
The only reason you're having this difficulty is because there is something not hooked up correctly. Forget how the previous outlets were hooked up (unless one was a switched outlet) and start again, replacing one at a time.
You can buy Uranium ore on Amazon those days. So, you can re-create your radioactive lab even today.
I have this $8 one from Amazon for household use. I’ll definitely be ordering a second one to monitor the temperature in the baby’s room!
If you’re truly setting up your kitchen for prep, eliminate the standup refrigerator, convert another chest freezer into a chest fridge with a $35 part off amazon
This should be a significant power savings.
>fell into a floor vent under the dash. I tried sticking my arms in there but my wrists didn't like the angle.
Fiber optic cameras are pretty cheap on Amazon. I bought this one.
That sounds like a lot of work. You should give “The Radioactive Boy Scout” a read. Should be a lot easier these days since we have things like Amazon
Honestly you're better off just getting an Inkbird temp controller they are so cheap at this point, and if you've got no experience it's kind of a no-brainer. Not sure where you are but you can check out this Amazon link. I think I picked mine up on sale for 25? I'd give you tips on the DIY part, but obviously I just bought this guy. I would probably just help you start a fire.
Pen voltage testers work for AC. In order to check the charge of a battery, you'll need a voltmeter that makes contact with both terminals, such as this miltimeter. You can get testers in the form factor of a pen plus wire (such as this one) if that's your preference, but you still need to make contact with both terminals of the battery being tested.
When adding an add a fuse, if you orient it wrong, you can cause issues but the fuse itself is not directional. I just use a multimeter to test this instead of having a dedicated test light. If you plan on doing anything electrical you really should have one anyway.
This should be fine for your use: AstroAI Multimeter 2000 Counts Digital Multimeter with DC AC Voltmeter and Auto Ranging Tester ; Measures Voltage, Current, Resistance; Tests Live Wire, Continuity [link]
They make temperature controllers for this kind of thing. You’ll put a probe in the fridge (ideally inside something like a small glass of water to prevent drastic temp swings when you open the door), and plug the fridge into it and it will literally just unplug the fridge when it reaches whatever temp you set.
>a few sessions of an hour each
Everything you said is right except this, from what I found. looking into using mine in my vehicles I found that anything over 15 minutes, on some plastics surfaces, can lead them to break down. They could be wrong, but I've always stuck to 12-15min a day max and it works well on stuff like this.
Also you need to make sure you have a ground at your outlet. without a ground these don't work properly and the one I have specifies making sure there is an active ground. a cheap receptical tool can confirm.
I keg in a chest freezer- both beer and booch. I use the Inkbird ITC-308 and it’s great. It has an app so you can monitor and control temp from your smartphone. And it’s pretty cheap.
As long as you stay above 60 F you shouldn't have to worry about diacetyl as long as you keep it on the yeast long enough for fermentation to reach completion and all the byproducts have a chance to get cleaned up.
Yes, you can use a thermostat on a fridge. Check out the inkbird temperature controller here
You should ferment at around 10c. If you're making a 5 gallon batch, make sure to pitch at least 2 packs of yeast.
I get the feeling you're just using your fridge's internal controls to measure the temperature. Instead, I would recommend picking up a temperature controller and tape the probe to the outside of your fermentation vessel. It will cycle your fridge on/off to hold your beer at your precise fermentation temperature.
If just kept at ambient temps, your beer will actually ferment warmer than ambient (probably 4-10 degrees F warmer). Temp swings up and down as fermentation ramps up and tapers off can be detrimental to your yeast performance.
Non-mobile: you can buy uranium ore on Amazon
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
Get yourself an inkbird temp controller from Amazon. It's by far the cheapest prebuilt controller and works wonderfully. I have one and have no complaints. here
No, I completely understand wanting to monitor humidity and that is the perfect thing to do-I would just recommend a digital one. You can find them pretty cheap on Amazon. I use these. Bonus is you can monitor ambients too. Haha.
Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?
You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.
I use the AcuRite 00613 Indoor Humidity Monitor as a hygrometer and thermometer. I've used this for about 3 months now and have no complaints about it.
If only we could buy it on amazon. Be sure to check Q&A.
Or buy a GM counter and go hiking in central Andhra or other uranium rich regions.
Ordered it on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Images-SI-Uranium-Ore/dp/B000796XXM
Anyone can own uranium. It isn’t illegal. In fact, it’s one of the most common elements on earth. You can buy it on Amazon.
Uranium Ore [link]
It actually does the cooling, you get an inkbird thermostat and plug the freezer in to it. Set the temp where you want it and it turns the power on and off to keep it at temp. [link]
I can't speak for the tester you are using, but if the wires are installed in conduit, the conduit can be used as ground, and thus grounding to the metal box is ok. They make a tester that is 3 pronged that has lights on it. When you plug it in, the lights will tell you if the wiring is correct.
Get one of these so you can see what is potentially blocking your path:
DEPSTECH Wireless Endoscope
You can get endoscopic cameras cheap on Amazon. You'd only need to drill a 3/8" hole to view each stud bay.
I have this one, and it's fine. About the quality you'd expect for a $35 camera (low quality).
Humidifier? I just use a spray bottle, unless you mean a humidity/temp gauge. This one works pretty well for me.
As a homeowner I would suggest you own a little tester like this. It’s a completely safe way to see if you are experiencing the most common wiring issues. Check all the plugs you can, you would be surprised how often one plug in the house with incorrect wiring will be the reason for household issues.
Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black [link]
If the rest of the house is fine then you are either not getting sufficient air flow through the whole basement or you have a serious moisture intrusion problem.
I have a couple of these that I use to keep track of humidity throughout my house...
put them around and see if you can localize where the humidity is. I'm guessing that you're not getting enough airflow into the high humidity spaces.
- recall that moisture wicks right through concrete walls...
I have one of these on every floor of my house. Works as advertised. They also affix with a magnet (have on on the refrigerator) or have a pop out stand.
AcuRite 00613 Indoor Thermometer... [link]
The first one I bought was over two years ago and still works great!
It should work. Finding something cheaper than $20 probably won't happen
I used Inkbird
For my beer fermenter. It is more customizable, but costs double the one you linked.
Inkbird makes really reliable temperature controllers like such
Any seedling mat/reptile enclosure heater/carboy heater should work fine.
I got far too tired of failed bread, so trying this and a new recipe.
I should mention the heater I have is a 40W heater. I don't think a smaller one would have any issues just probably be on more often.
Uranium Ore [link]
You would need a boatload of uranium to kill you in your sleep. Your get more radiation exposure flying on an airliner or from 10 bananas than 1kg of uranium.
Se você precisa de uma amostra de urânio para testar equipamentos de detecção de radiação, você pode encontrar um na Amazon. Agora plutônio? Isso só em instituições de pesquisa nuclear norte-americanas
Do you have room to get an old fridge in your garage?
Get something cheap and then put a temperature regulator on it. Like this one:
It should keep your mead at the correct temperature?
Could be, but I would suspect low humidity first. Do you know what it is there?
I use this inexpensive monitor.
Yes. Something like this you can get at any hardware store: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=outlet+tester&qid=1619040677&sr=8-7
> I would very much like to avoid having to rip open the walls to get a look at a pipes as that will most likely be costly.
It's probably normal. And usually in a complex the HOA is responsible for in-wall leaks anyway. But if it's really bothering you, you can just cut some holes in drywall and have a look, or get one of those cheap borescope cameras and poke around a bit.
Get a digital multimeter
Set it to 20 V (DC) and then measure the voltage. You do that by connecting the black (COM) lead to ground and the red (V) lead to a test point in your circuit (e.g., the voltage supply jack, then test points in your circuit. You do this when the power is on of course.
This will tell you if you have wired up the DC jack properly. If you didn't check, then you have a 50/50% chance of getting it right. I tried to look at your photos, can't say for certain if it is correct. Your effect will not work without proper power. ;-)
In debugging, you have to use deduction to rule out various root causes. Don't assume anything is correct. Put on your detective hat, and everyone (everything) is a suspect ;-)
Hope this helps.
I had an old XPS that did something like this to me. Turned out I had an open ground on the outlet.
Something like this could help find it. I got mine from Home Depot though.
Amazon has this really cool one! It’s been working really great for me, it just plug in between your power source and your lamp. Hopefully that link works, but that’s the one I have an have no complaints about so far and we’ve had a pretty chilly winter with plenty of snow here in northern Pennsylvania
No worries, and cheers. I used a chest freezer and one of those Inkbird temperature controllers. I also bought this stainless thermowell that I attached to my fermentor. Put the probe from the Inkbird inside the well. Gave me complete control during the process.
Get one of these. They're good to have in general. It'll tell you if the outlet is properly grounded.
You might check the humidity in your hedgehogs room. If it's too dry, this can cause skin irritation and dryness. If that's the case, buy a small humidifier. This is what I use to keep an eye on the whole room temp and humidity of my office which is where my baby stays https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There will be a socket for a cooling device, anything you plan to use: it could be small desktop fan or a large floor based model for a greenhouse.
You might have a ground problem with the electrical outlets. There is an inexpensive device you can get which will tell you. Available at home repair places and on Amazon of course:
I just clicked on the first one that showed up, there are other brands. These are handy.
You can get something like this to see what's inside the wall through the hole you made to verify if you are hitting an obstruction or something.
I won’t be. Posting the directions to do such a thing would be inadvisable legally, besides I would not want there to be a possibility of any blood being shed from the obtainment of that knowledge, that came from me. I wouldn’t feel very good about that to say the least.
Oh and for more obscure and more legal knowledge, you can buy unrefined Uranium ore on Amazon.
A couple thoughts
Temp control is one of the biggest factors in consistent flavors when brewing the same beer. I do 5 gallon brews, and I have a Craigslist chest freezer and an inkbird temp controller aka thermostat, to turn the freezer on and off. Also has a plug for a heater. Keeps it at 72 or whatever I set it at. Something to consider if you move up to bigger batches.
Buy this and have a look. I have this exact model and it works great.
Partially-spent nuclear fuel is not usable as a nuclear bomb. Fuel has to be very pure in order to sustain the rapid chain reaction that happens in a nuke, and spent reactor-grade fuel isn't even close. At best, it has to be heavily refined first.
Plus you have to actually design and build the bomb itself, which is extremely difficult. The bomb's casing has to withstand the explosive force of a fucking nuke until the fuel is consumed, and only then give way, or else it'll fizzle out. Good luck.
Edit: Also, you have to somehow make the bomb not explode prematurely. Uranium is unstable, remember. If you have a chunk of 100%-pure uranium, a fission chain reaction will be started immediately by its own radioactive decay, and then you no longer have a chunk of 100%-pure uranium. (That's why highly-enriched uranium does not occur in nature.) So, you have to figure out how to make the fission chain reaction happen, but only when you want it to. Again, good luck.
Spent reactor fuel might be used to make a dirty bomb, but the effectiveness of dirty bombs as actual weapons is highly questionable.
Anyway, we already have more than enough nukes lying around—some of them unaccounted for, and probably in terrorist hands—to go full Fallout.
Fun fact, by the way: you can buy uranium on Amazon. Seriously. You can even buy it as a gift, amusingly enough.
This is a pretty good hydrometer
although i don't know why you'd want to measure the specific gravity of something. i'd rather use a hygrometer to measure humidity
pet store hygrometers aren't the greatest. amazon people who buy cannabis stuff seem to prefer this
I just got this one from amazon. I haven't really used it yet, but so far the video quality is good. It came with a few attachments. Id recommend it.
I had the Ryobi phone works scope and it was terrible. I returned two of them to Home Depot because they just truly didn't work. The wifi didn't work, the picture quality was marginal.
I had humidity issues before we changed our doors and windows. I purchased a cheap humidity gauge on Amazon and a $50 dehumidifier that I would plug in near the piano and turn on whenever it got too high. Kept everything in that area of the house even.
I think it is important to note that the system they are trying to develop doesn't use highly enriched uranium. It would use low enriched and a smaller amount. There is a video in this thread somewhere that explains it better. I mean you can buy uranium on Amazon ,if you didn't know, but how enriched it is makes the difference between no big deal and dirty bomb. [link]
This reminds me of the borescopes on Amazon for iPhones or tablets that could probably do the same thing with a modified Laryngoscope to hold the wire.
I made my own out of wood, lined with styrofoam, and a brewer thermostat. This has a swing of . 5C, and can hook up to a resistance wire. I chose the wire for pipes in winter, remove the thermocouple, plug in the 2 wires,, set humidity to what they like, and you're good. I also threw in some bricks for thermal mass to help hold a nice medium while the heat was off. This worked far better than bulbs, because the constant on /off burned the tungsten. Other than the wire and thermostat, I made it literally out of scrap, so $30 with a far better success rate than anything I could buy. Amazon thermoatat
It can be done with an Arduino, but I don't know that I'd bother. Temperature is the most commonly controlled process parameter and as a result, there are literally thousands of cheap temperature controllers on the market. I'd just buy one and be done with it.
Let's see what I can find with a random Amazon search. Here's one from the first page of search before I even sorted the results:
Also, there's no way to know for sure but try to watch a video on youtube on how to properly source an engine from a junk yard. You might look for one with accident damage versus one that looks normal because it implies that it was running at the time of the accident, versus scrapped for mechanical issues.
You might be able to do a compression test if you find a way to somehow bring your battery and the junkyard allows you to do connect to the starter somehow. At least pull the plugs and take a look.
You won't be able to check the fluids at the junkyard to know if there was oil mixing with coolant so.. if you can manage to get a compression test done somehow that'll be the way to go.
I bought this wireless snake camera thing for $30 on amazon which connects to your phone and it's got a light at the end. You might be able to use this to check inside of the cylinder head and look for any damage.
I use it to find TDC when doing a leakdown test when a screwdriver won't fit
[This is the pair (Amazon link)](https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1548896564&sr=8-4&keywords=calipers) that I own! There are some other good ones on amazon too.
It’s so difficult to find sufficient quantities of uranium for my basement experiments. Then I discovered Amazon sells it too!
I'd watch the hole (from a safe distance) and have someone else start the engine. You'll actually see the debris fly out like in Scotty's video. After a moment you'll stop seeing debris, that will be your cue. If it's going to come out it will within 10-15 cycles or so. You could use a borescope (check Amazon) and inspect. If you have a small shopvac you may be able to vacuum the hole, or use the vacuum with compressed air to get as much out as possible first.
This isn’t bad for the price we use $150 calipers and I’ve tried some of these in a pinch and they’re pretty comparable.
I recommend two things, get yourself a multimeter so you can test your battery and charging system and check all of your connections especially the black ground wire going to the frame. And also follow the big red wire to the starter solenoid to make sure everything is clean rust free and tight.
You need a multimeter, here’s an example.
And here’s a good write up that will make you a Battery/Charging system GURU and can help somebody else in the future!
First though, check the battery cable connections and follow the big wires to where they go, especially the black, ground wire. Clean, rust free and tight.