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Thread Milling Taps:
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That part will work like brand new with a good disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication. That old school stuff was made to last.
If threads are a problem then chase the burs off.
https://www.amazon.com/Kastar-971-Metric-Thread-Restorer/dp/B003QHQEPE
Yeah. Wasn't an expensive set. 4.5 stars with a thousand Amazon reviews sold it to me. Erwad the reviews and seemed sensible reasons.
Link below for your judgement.
You can always just retap the holes. We’ve sceen this happen a couple times when the screw in installed on an angle and a drill/impact is used. Strange that it came that way.
If you have no luck, we can get you a new column Tuesday but retapping will take 30 seconds.
This is the set we have used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WN8BGWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ECMPZGRFGQNPRGBJE8GG
I've had this same kit on my wishlist for months now. This is the cheapest version I found. Somehow I doubt your snappy set costs $75 lol, sorry mate.
https://www.amazon.com/Kastar-971-Metric-Thread-Restorer/dp/B003QHQEPE
It depends how badly it's stripped. If it's not too bad you can use a tap kit like this kit. If it's real bad, you don't have any options besides replacing the whole bridge.
To repair a cross threaded rear axel nut on a Rad, you will need this tool and some cutting fluid. M12 x 1.25mm HSS Metric Tap And Die Set Thread Tap And Round Thread Die Right Hand HSS Taper Silver Tone (2Pcs)
It's possible the threads are damaged and you can chase them with a kit like this. If you're willing to take chances and the bolt goes in a decent amount you can always shorten it or buy a shorter replacement at the hardware store.
£30 tap and die set on Amazon. Hi-Spec 39 Piece SAE & Metric Tap and Die Set. Tapered & Plug Hand Tapping, Cutting, Threading, Forming, & Chasing Tool Kit for DIY, The Garage & Workshop https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NY5K9P4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_7CCYEZQCXYDEDRYNAC6W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How does this style compare (functionality-wise) to the more traditional "slotted bolt/nut"-type thread restorers?
If you take your time and make sure you’re all straight and threaded in nicely then it will work.
The safer option is to use a chaser tap / thread cleaning tap. like this from summit or this from amazon which looks suspiciously similar to my snap on set.
They’re designed to restore/reform threads, not cut new ones so there’s less of a chance of boogering it up. It’s got a flat end, so you have to have it threaded from the get go, so it’s a lot harder to cross-thread or start off crooked plus it won’t cut new threads even if you were cockeyed. Also, you can just use a socket or wrench to turn them which is nice if you don’t have a lot of clearance.
A regular die can/will cut the existing threads, removing material, which could leave the fastener weaker. To what extent (if to any meaningful degree), I’m not sure.
i use a tap and die on a standard hole with no threads, it works amazing.
1/2 - 28 is a standard size; here's a tap for it. 1-1/4 - 28 is not a standard size as far as I know. Those threads would have to be cut on a lathe.
I suppose you could use the flash hider itself as a die on something really soft like PVC. Or glue it onto a PVC fitting that's very close to its ID. There's a facebook group specifically for these types of gun projects.
if you can touch it w/o it sticking to your finger it should be good to go...I use Ultra Black when doing differential covers and after 4 hours I fill em and drive em and havn't had a leak yet.
Thread chasers can clean threads and straighten threads, but if they're gone, then it'll need a heli coil or insert.
Kastar/Lang makes the master kit, same one's on all the tool trucks for 3X the price. It's a handy tool to have and use. Thread restorer's are NOT the same as a tap, a tap is designed to cut threads, restorers are designed to chase threads/clean them and straighten them.
https://www.amazon.com/Kastar-971-Metric-Thread-Restorer/dp/B003QHQEPE
Assuming there's enough material on the underside of your bed, drilling and tapping the bed's holes out to M10 would be the easiest.
To do that you need a 9.1mm drill bit (or something close), and an M10 tap drill (https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-8338-10mm-1-0-Metric/dp/B0002JT0XW). If the mounting part is metal, this might not be that easy. If it's wood, it becomes far easier.
You'll need to know whether the thread on the legs is M10x1 (fine thread) or M10x1.25 (course thread). The second number indicates the space between each thread height. Metal on your bed and it's probably M10x1. Wood and it's probably M10X1.25. The tap is different depending on what the thread pitch is.