I have a hitch-mounted step on my Tundra that I use more than the bumper (because the bumper is too high for me):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K23KQ0
This is what I'll use on my R1T or R1S when I get one. :)
It looks like it goes 1.25 in hitch -> 1.25 inch to 2 hitch adapter -> 2 in dual hitch extender -> 2 in motorcycle carrier. Between all those connections there’s a lot of wiggle room for it to droop, plus a lot of torque from the long length. Besides just doing it the right way, a couple of https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-50023-Tightener-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B07JDD8L3H/ref=asc_df_B07JDD8L3H/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343227722076&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16810394423661028412&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqm... would keep it more level
We do use a clamp that we bought on https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KZ25Y26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OxioFb1FYCXS1 that pushes up so no more clanking. We have towed this way on the expressway 5+ hours each way and no issues so far. I hope this is what you are talking about and it helps
if you grab the rack and wiggle it and feel some play in the receiver, get something like this and clamp it down: https://www.amazon.com/Tightener-LIBERRWAY-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Installation/dp/B01KZ25Y26/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=trailer+hitch+rattle+stop&qid=1628104652&sr=8-2
i needed one of these for a hitch on one of my cars because there was a little bit of play in the receiver. this clamps everything together and removes the play.
Have you tired one of these stabilizers? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KZ25Y26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_TQ0YVQE03CAZ4VBASKF3
I've used one before and it seemed to take out the slack and made it a little more rigid.
I use a Swagman. It’s served it’s purpose.
https://www.swagman.net/collections/rv-racks
Would recommended adding a brace. TT’s bounce around A LOT.
It’s the black widow hitch carrier from discount ramps. Works great if you get a hitch stabilizer from Amazon. The ramp is a bit flimsy but the rack is solid.
https://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle-carrier/p/AMC-400/
https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Tightener-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B0001CMUV4
I bought this a few weeks ago and used it on U-hauls smaller trailer and it was perfect. Not sure if the motorcycle trailer sits any lower/higher but I imagine it's not much different.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EOV492?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Not exactly what you asked for but I keep one of these on an FJ cruiser to make it easier to access the rack from the back.
https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-27046B-Beaver-2-Inch-Hitch/dp/B004K23KQ0
Can you fit a hitchmount rack on your tow vehicle with a high-low hitch receiver?
https://www.amazon.ca/MaxxHaul-70070-Dual-Hitch-Extension/dp/B008CE09PM
If so you can get something like this and it will fix the issue as well:
Okay so you need to work on using the correct terminology. That’s a hitch shackle which is fine to use. This is a tow ball which is what you were recommending.
I agree with everyone here saying that's sketchy as hell. I use the non-folding aluminum black widow hitch carrier on my Tahoe (700lb tongue weight, frame mounted hitch) with my WR250R which weighs about the same as your KLX230, and it's pretty rock solid. While I wouldn't want to be as close to the limit of the hitch as you are, even without the super extended length you've got, if you're OK with modifying the components you've got I'd try to eliminate as much of the extra length as I could. Cut off most of the post of the black widow and drill a new pin hole so that the wheel track sits flush with the raised hitch adaptor. It also looks like you could lose a couple inches on the raising adaptor. All of this would bring the bike much closer to the car and help reduce the moment on the hitch of the car. I'd also get two of these for the carrier and adaptor and ditch the black widow quieter which is junk.
There's an adapter for skewer style axles that Burley sells: https://www.amazon.com/Burley-Design-Hitch-Alternative-Adapter/dp/B007LVUSF8/ref=asc_df_B007LVUSF8/
Doesn't impact the kickstand at all
I wasn't happy with the amount of play in the hitch on my Tacoma until I found a hitch tightener, I got mine off of etrailer.com but here is a similar product on Amazon.
MaxxHaul 50023 Hitch Tightener Anti Rattle Stabilizer for 1.25" to 2" Hitches Reduce Movement On Hitch Mount Cargo Carrier Bike Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDD8L3H/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4BS9HAR88GNF0Z5AHEA8
These hitch stabilizers make a world of difference for the rocking if you’re not using one yet: LIBERRWAY Hitch Tightener for 1.25" and 2" Hitches 304 Stainless Steel Hitch Tightener Anti-Rattle Stabilizer Rust-Free Heavy Duty Lock Down Easy Installation Quiet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZ25Y26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MXCDJSYK1M4BF2263M75?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd use a hitch tightener like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDD8L3H/
That will stop any movement or rattling if that's the problem. A class 2 hitch is only rated for 300 lbs tongue weight so at the end of the day, it really can't handle much.
I like the beaver step better. Makes grabbing stuff off the roof rack easier: Smittybilt 27046B Beaver Step for 2-Inch Hitch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K23KQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_VWVAR6ZXQ2Y2382XM6AV
Can't see in the picture, but if you don't have a hitch stabilizer then get it. It'll reduce all shimming between the shelf and the receiver to zero.
Here's the one I use:
LIBERRWAY Hitch Tightener for 1.25" and 2" Hitches 304 Stainless Steel Hitch Tightener Anti-Rattle Stabilizer Rust-Free Heavy Duty Lock Down Easy Installation Quiet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KZ25Y26/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_KB6TYWBCYWN3W9RXMCQ2
I may have done the same thing once... https://imgur.com/a/fjvkk3k
I used one of these https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70070-Dual-Hitch-Extension/dp/B008CE09PM and it raised it enough to not be a problem anymore.
I’m working on something like this for my new Parajet Maverick too, and after seeing the sloppiness in the hitch mount in online reviews, I’m looking for a clean way to keep the “jiggle” at bay. I assume your Curt 1.25” comes with a filler block? Perhaps a simple hitch stabilizer is what you’re after. It’s not quick to disconnect, but it will eliminate the most violent thrashing.
Be sure to post your finished build!
Here's a working link.
https://www.amazon.com/Tightener-LIBERRWAY-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Installation/dp/B01KZ25Y26
I use a locking hitch pin as well as a hitch tightener like this.
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$40 trailer hitch flagpole holder. No drilling
> Camco Hitch Mount Flagpole Holder, Fits Standard 2-Inch Hitch Receivers, Durable and Rust Resistant (51611), White
I use a hitch tightener offroad and it works fine. worst case I can see is you might drag the U-bolt ends on dropoffs, but I guess you could cut the bolt down just below the nuts and get clearance.
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Tightener-LIBERRWAY-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Installation/dp/B01KZ25Y26
I used to use a 1.25 to 2" adapter towing a trailer and dirt bike, and would swap it out for a 2" hitch rack for 2 bikes. It's not a problem and won't wear on your car. 1-2mtbs are light for a vehicle. Just be sure to use something like this to reduce slop and noise: https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-50023-Tightener-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B07JDD8L3H
I eventually switched to a 1.25" hitch rack for 1 bike so I could get into my hatchback when the rack was closed. Really no difference between the two setups other than the original 2" extension made my car a little longer.
I pull my 2 & 7 year old in the burley bee... just had to buy the right attachment. I ride an R as well...
Burley Hitch Alt Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LVUSF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6NKDV7ZTVHCXDREMVAE9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It took us a few tries, but we now have a great system for our kayaks on my 2011 GT.
Starting out with a set of Yakima Timberline Towers on the stock roof bars.
Attached some nice wide JetStream bars with two sets of SweetRolls (do you think I like Yakima or something?) that allow the two kayaks to sit flat, as opposed to turning into giant sails like they do with J-Hooks.
I always recommend using front and rear straps in addition to the two rack straps. I found some hood loops that anchor to the body under the hood, and then I have this insane step on the back that I attach the rear straps to. It also works as a step to let me double check that everything is solid.
With the boats in j-hooks, it was a lot more likely to catch a gust of air and really feel it pull on the vehicle. They are much better flat, and I have driven for hours on the interstate with no problems.
It does reduce gas mileage a bit, but that is to be expected.