You can get a wireless brake control module you know. Your trailer plugs into it and it plugs in to your tow plug outlet (job idea what it’s called lol) then the part just plugs into a cigarette lighter and you can increase or decrease the braking power. Like this one
I have a 2006, just installed one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P11SCM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Paired with: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NZKPUG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There was a plug under the dash I had to locate, then it was just plug and play.
If you dont want to do this, uhaul will install one for a price.
My last tow vehicle did not have a mounted brake controller. I used a bluetooth one that plugged into the 7 pin and was controlled through my phone: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-51180-Controller-Bluetooth-Enabled-Proportional/dp/B07JQ99SDD
I did lose the first one though after some rough freeway, so be sure to strap it in place.
Hey! I just installed a brake controller in my 2006 Tunda (First gen). My brake adapter was taped to the wall of the left side behind and to the left of the parking brake.
I bought the adapter on amazon and that Tekonsha brake controller and it works great. I did have to ground one of the wires (You'll see... it's a black one with a loop at the end) I just unscrewed a bare bolt to the frame down there and put it on there. No big deal.
The hardest part was there was almost no room to move down there.
It's plug n play, so good luck! Be sure to test it out before you go on the road! Much different with a brake controller.
People like this are why I'm considering keeping a set of Go Jacks in my trunk. If they block you in, move it out of the way.
The wiring harness should be on the bottom of the bumper next to the receiver. If you have a receiver but no wiring harness (I believe this is how all the 1st Editions shipped), you can easily install this harness yourself. Takes a screwdriver and about 10 minutes, and you'll be ready to go. If you have a 4 pin trailer, you can connect /u/Nicht1menschlichFrau's adapter to this harness.
I bought them for testing options for running ghost wire to the surround speakers in my living room. Needed to be able to quickly attach/detach until I got it right... now im planning to use these little bad boys as well as these on all my wiring jobs instead of those stupid twist nuts
The easiest way is with Wago connectors. You feed in one +5V or ground wire from the power supply and then you can branch out with 1, 2, or 4 wires for LEDs, power injection, the ESP, and anything else you might need. These allow you to disconnect everything easily and can handle up to 450V/32A.
Alternatives would be a terminal/fuse block, soldering everything together, a power supply with multiple terminals like you mentioned (though most I've seen only have two 5V and two GND).
You might also look through the compatible hardware list since many of these shields/boards are setup specifically for this and have tons of terminals and other features you'd want in one little package.
Yeah! I have some coming today and I'm excited. Crimp free lever connectors. I've heard it's best to go with the name brand; the cheap ones can work open.
Here is a link for the 7 pin socket. The dealer will sell you the same thing for about $55, or you can order it here for about $15. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B6NQHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Pollak 11-893P
they are a little larger than a pair of 4pin molex, BTW what do you need molex for in a SFF build, it is not like you have any space for addon cards and such (aside from a dual slot GPU at best)
if you only need 12 or 5v and not both it saves overall space since you only need 1 SPL-2 which is probably about 75% the volume of a pair of molex plugs (1 SPL2 is 4cm x 1.3cm x 1.3cm)
nrv i was wrong about the space (unless you are using the molex plugs with grips to pull them apart)
but i am using them in a fully loaded (and then some) ATX mid-tower case and it really getting cramped in there, i had 3 pieces of hardware that only need 12v so I used the PSU's 8pin PCIe power cable jack to make 3 12v lines using SPL-2 plugs
Another option is these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKSHVF6 it mostly depends on how you can router the wires and the shape of the space you are working with
Also—add you probably know—the ‘tow package’ includes the writing for a brake controller, but not the controller itself… you’ll need something like this guy: Tekonsha 90160 Primus IQ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P11SCM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Took <10m to install, and ~7m of that was my psyching myself up to put the first screw through the trim.
The socket they sell at the dealer is about $60, but you can buy the EXACT same one on amazon for under $15.
Pollak 11-893P RV 7-Way Socket (OEM) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000B6NQHW/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_88BR28NW57A0PFRG83G4_0
I've used it on my 2019 Atlas for the past 3 years. Plugs right into the harness under the screw plate you see there in the pic.
I recently added this brake controller to my 2010 Off Road. The connector is already there. It made a HUGE difference overall. Not sure if the flat bed trailer has e-brakes but if it does, I highly recommend. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P11SCM/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is when you find a friend with car skates (aka wheel dollies). Put one under each wheel, jack the car up, and reposition the car somewhere very difficult to get out of, like behind a concrete pillar.
My first reaction is not to trust this dealership. I have the AWD Pro S non-Gradient. I have had zero issues with the car since October.
I can confirm that the towing wiring harness is factory installed and your electrical installer is telling the truth. I ordered the Pollak 7-way socket (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B6NQHW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) and installed it myself. I haven't tested it by hooking up trailer lights to it though.
As far as the FitCamX, I don't really buy that. There are multiple owners on vwidtalk that have installed that model dashcam and had no issues. I installed a BlackVue dashcam and wired it into the always-on overhead console power so it's active 24/7.
I'm at a loss for advice to give. I guess have them show you the "aftermarket module" before they take the bumper off and see if there is any truth to that claim.
I use a MaxxHaul Trailer Dolly for our 17" Casita, and it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CE0TN4/
With two caveats...
Trying to do really sharp turns, the tire gets stuck under the tongue. I wish the ball was mounted just a little higher to avoid that. I'm working on it.
Second, I've only ever pulled mine around on hard surface. Not certain how it'd perform in the grass. But your Burro will be so much lighter than my Casita, that I think it'll do nicely.
Are those one real wagos ?
Also, would they be suitable for thermostats wiring (240V - 16.6A, max 25A)
I've thought about doing that with a car that parked in my assigned spot last week. There are some adjustable tire dolly skates that you can use and just... Push the car around however you want. (Like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QY2RSYH/)
But I opted for a note and letting management know.
How about this?
You put it in the holes of the trailer so you can slide the trailer wheels exactly on the first go to balance weight. Super handy if you need to just move them one hole. Not the kind of thing a non trucker would think of, but if he hasn't got one already, he'll use it all the time! I know I do mine!
PTP PRO TRUCKING PRODUCTS TS2000 Tandem Slide Stopper Tool Used in Sliding Tandems to Adjust Axle Weight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y487YPW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_21T3SC247RPCN1A0XXV8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How it works: https://youtu.be/C03ZHsB_iOQ
I have a Highlander rated for 5,000 pounds and the factory towing package installed.
I am looking to use this: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/hopkins-47185-multi-tow-4-flat-to-7-blade-and-4-flat-towing-connector-47185/6400013
Combined with this: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-51180-Controller-Bluetooth-Enabled-Proportional/dp/B07JQ99SDD
I don't think it's as dire of a situation as it's being made out to be.
You can get a small pack of bushings to go in the entry hole for like a couple of dollars. It looks like drywall protrudes into the hole space anyway so it should stop the wire from rubbing/getting cut into by the metal anyway though. Buy some Wago connectors of you're not comfortable with wire nuts.
If you hid the LED wires well enough so that they aren't casting shadows when it's on then you did a decent job. Just fix up the connections.
Have customer service page them that their car is being or will be towed.
You could carry car dollies to move the car.
Stark Set of (4) Wheel Dolly Car Skates Vehicle Positioning Hydraulic Tire Jack Truck Rv Trailer Pick Up Dolly Ratcheting Foot Pedal, 1500LBS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QY2RSYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XHQCH5AD901C7T738WT2
You can do something like the Wago connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/Splicing-Connector-Lever-Nut-Assortment-Pocket/dp/B07NKSHVF6/
To connect the 1 GND to 3 different wirestrips, you would need a 4 port connector!
lol..."Mom, I think I should take your Scamp out for a test camp. Just to make sure it's ready for use." Nice one.
Yeah, there are so many approaches to RV camping. I envy the comfort and storage larger campers have; but the portability, maneuverability, and just plain cozy feel one gets in the small campers is hard to pass up.
One other accessory I might recommend for your mom, an option that works well for small, lightweight campers is a trailer dolly:
https://www.amazon.com/MaxxHaul-70225-Pneumatic-Tires-600-Capacity/dp/B008CE0TN4
as long as her driveway is fairly flat, a device like this can take a lot of the pain out of backing the camper back into the drive. (not to be used on a steep driveway, though. things can get out of hand)
You could do that and it would just be a spur but wouldn't look great in my opinion.
The best option would be to get an electrician in to extend the cables by soldering and re-sleeving them.
You could also use a wago connector (like this Wago 221-413 Splicing Connector 3 Conductors 0.14-4 mm². Compact Design with Lever, Pack of 50 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JB3U9CG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_TKNMY627C5PGXP2REGWX ) but they should be enclosed in a wago junction box (like this WAGOBOX Electrical Light Multipurpose Junction Box for WAGO Connectors Various Pack Sizes Pack of 3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08BK6V9F9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1MJ37PCMVGH0V5FGM9ZB ) but putting that on your wall wouldn't look too neat either.
I have a 2020 and I installed this one about two weeks ago, I ordered a longer cable thing and it works amazingly!! Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P17NXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X516Z9HR2WR32PDYFKW7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
People on forums have used this:
CURT 51180 Echo Mobile Electric Trailer Brake Controller with Bluetooth-Enabled Smartphone Connection, Proportional https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07JQ99SDD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QR1WPBZNMTYS7W4QBQTS
125V AC is already in the "not fun" Region, so make sure you can't touch it by accident.
I can't tell you if it's because I don't know what it is used for. But I think in US electrics the Standart beaker is 16A, which is more than enough to turn it into smoke.
My tip: desolder and get some wago clamps or something similar. They are made for applications like this ant won't be the weak link.
You would need two of those.