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![CDL Study Guide 2020 and 2021: CDL Training Book 2020 and 2021 with Practice Test Questions for the Commercial Drivers License Exam [3rd Edition]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51+nT1dwcvL._SL500_.jpg)
Top Reddit reviews mentioning Trucks & Vans books:
Not videos but books.
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Wheelers-Bible-2nd-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335303/
The catch phrase is "Slow as possible, fast as necessary".
Really most of the knowledge has to be in the spotter. The driver just has to follow directions.
If you've ever had a good spotter and a bad spotter the difference is night and day.
If you’re referring to what the wrench is on, then yep that’s your fuel pump. It’s possible the diaphragm inside is not working properly, and the unit needs replacing. You can buy replacements at nearly any of the popular parts sites for supers like jbugs, cip1, Wolfsburgwest, to name a few. It should run you about $20-30 depending on what year your Super is. Fairly easy replacement.
As to the stalling at stops and lights, I would be more inclined to take a look at your carb, specifically the idle jet. Open the top of your carb and look into the bowl. If you see any kind of debris or grit in the bowl you would be best served to clean out your carb thoroughly, including removing and blowing out the jets. You can get new carb gaskets from the same websites. Also not expensive.
The larger problem is if you are getting grit in your carb. Do you have fuel filters installed in your fuel lines, and are they installed with the flow going the right direction? Do you have fuel lines that are old and crumbly? Do you have debris in the bottom of your gas tank? None of these things are show-stoppers and parts are available to fix them all. Depending on your time and resources it’s best to go from easiest to fix (clean out carb, check/install fuel filters), to more difficult (remove fuel tank and replace or refurb/run steel fuel lines wherever possible).
I am not sure what book you’re using, but if you don’t have a copy of the Bentley manual I highly suggest you get one. It’s essentially the VW bible for how these things go together and come apart.
Volkswagen Super Beetle, Beetle & Karmann Ghia Official Service Manual: 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837616239/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_1BgdGb3SFJ5YA
That 4 bolt main truck is pretty desirable. I'd hang on to it and rebuild it. Get this and you shouldn't have any problem doing it yourself How to Rebuild Your Small-Block Chevy https://www.amazon.com/dp/1557880298/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_9GW1DZZ28R65BBK33H9W
As far as Jack points there are two on each side the square holes under the running boards. Don't use these unless you are changing a tire and after you made sure they haven't rusted. Under the front on the front end there should be two spots left and right of the center tunnel on where the spindles connect on the beam. Those are good solid spots to Jack it up and put it on stands. Just make sure you can access the spindles mounting points. Also go buy yourself two books one the bently manual and two "how to keep your volkswagen alive" these will give you a lot of info on what may be wrong and how to fix it.
There are various textbooks available, if that is the level of depth you are looking for. This textbook is an 800 page monster, and is fairly cheap. I've worked with it before and it is good, if slightly dated in a couple of places (book is about 9 years old).
Beetle is very tinker-friendly car. One of the reason I like it. Also the boxer sound is lovable.
For a tinkerer I'd recommend Beetle factory manual by Bentley, for a novice John Muir's 'how to keep your volkswagen alive'.
https://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Beetle-Karmann-Official-Service/dp/0837616239 https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101
I've both, highly recommended. :)
Not trying to promote Amazon, but this is a really good book:
“The Big Rig: Trucking and the Decline of the American Dream”
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0520278127/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_ZYGK17KZTATPCA471848
You should purchase a book to help you with this project, I would recommend How to rebuild your small block Chevy https://www.amazon.com/dp/1557880298/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_MSZHF5Z7SPW4ZN999E5N I see them in used bookstores all the time too.
Link for those in the US: Working in the Wild Land Rovers Manual for Africa
I haven’t seen anyone in else post this yet but I’m more of a book kind of person. I’ve learned a lot through YouTube and from forums but the most I’ve learned is through having some sort of book or manual. I always got the “Haynes” manuals or “Chilton” manuals from an auto parts store online. Idk something about having it in hard copy form just works for me. That being said, what I would recommend to you is to get a manual. I found this one on Amazon. manual It’s not cheap but I’ve always found them to be very helpful. And try to buy good parts, it goes a long way. They don’t have to be “genuine parts” but do your research, ask questions and “Trust but verify”.
Definitely a good learning point. If you don't yet own Tom Wilson's book: https://www.amazon.ca/Rebuild-Your-Volkswagen-Air-Cooled-Engine/dp/0895862255 You don't need to read the whole thing, but definitely read the tear-down chapters, and read the assembly chapter. All the info on rebuilding individual components can be skipped...these days it's cheaper to buy new heads than rebuild your current ones, for instance.
Consider your oil cooler to be trash - replace it with the best quality one you can buy. Some people here will tell you it can be flushed, and I've certainly flushed them in the past, but if we presume your bearings are trashed (I can almost guarantee it)...We should presume you have bearing material in your oil cooler. It's difficult to flush out, and you don't want it taking out your new bearings.
The first priority needs to be getting your bare engine case checked for line-bore and thrust. You'll need to tear the engine down, and take the case to a competent VW machine shop (check with local clubs to find out who to use.) If your case is good and useable, your engine rebuild can begin. If not, you have to either find a good used case or pony up the bucks for an expensive used one. Good used cases are getting harder and harder to find.
You can still rebuild a VW motor relatively inexpensively, presuming your case is good. If you have the budget, however, for just a little bit more you can build a stock motor that has a much longer lifespan. I always upgrade my engine builds with counterweighted cranks, full balancing, full-flow oiling, and welded fans at a minimum...even in a "stock" build. The dollars spent means significantly more reliable / longer-lasting engines.
Get yourself the official Volkswagen service manual. Big orange book and it has all the wiring diagrams and damn near every repair you will ever do with lots of pictures. It’s a must have. I just got one on amazon used for $25
Come over and check out /r/4x4
A bunch of the things you list are intertwined really.
Tire diameter and how aggressive the tread is is usually the most important. Next is getting power to those tires. That is where 4x4 and lockers come in.
But to fit bigger tires you often have to modify suspension. Keeping those tires on the ground is also important, so suspension matters there too (articulation and wheel travel).
Engine power usually really depends on terrain. If you are crawling rocks it's not really a factor. If you driving in sand and mud it can make a big difference.
Smaller and lighter is better for most terrain.
The reason large vehicles are popular off road is that they can usually fit much bigger tires and already have heavy duty drivetrain / steering / suspension components.
The best of both worlds is a custom vehicle: small truck or suv with heavy duty drive train and suspension.
And most of the things that make a vehicle good off road compromise it on road. A lot of the equipment is expensive and heavy. Which is why not many modern manufacturers make good hardcore off road vehicles, or if they do only in special trim packages.
If you are looking to follow you interest here, I recommend this book (no affiliation):
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Wheelers-Bible-2nd-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335303
Yeah all the things you mentioned along with FMCSA rulings and other laws, hauling and dealing with hazmat emergencies, extreme weather.
This was our textbook. It was 34 chapters if I remember correctly. There were chapter tests and a final and all that good stuff.
OP, I'd suggest you pick up this book by Keith Tanner.
It gives very detailed instructions on how to do most repairs/upgrades on a Miata. Very much worth the $16 from Amazon.
I have a hayne's manual, but I haven't used it at all yet. And I've done a lot of work so far (all fluids, replaced bushings, swapped subframe, clutch master and slave cylinder, rebuilt shifter, etc.). There are so many tutorials online, a simple google search will tell you everything you need to know. My favorite resource is the miata.net garage - http://www.miata.net/garage/ . I've also referenced this book - http://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Performance-Projects-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760316201 by keith from flyin' miata a couple of times. It's very well written.
As others have said, your location dictates price for machine work and who is competent in the area on doing it. Check thesamba for recommended shops in your area, or at least for a decent list of them.
You're looking for a technical and useful book. That would be the Wilson book, nothing else really comes close.
Join a 4x4 club. Ask around, see who will teach you.
Or get on some web forums and see if you can find someone local to help.
Start reading:
http://www.amazon.com/Four-Wheelers-Bible-2nd-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760335303
http://www.amazon.com/BMW-E34-Service-Manual-1989-1995/dp/0837603196
I have that bad boy. Pretty useful, especially when combined with some internet research before hand (how hard is it, how long does it take, ect).