Not an electrician, but I’ve done stuff like this a handful of times. This all sounds right.
I’d additionally recommend a non-contact voltage tester. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O
Helps to give a little extra assurance that you aren’t about to get shocked.
Looks like a fluke contactless voltage tester to me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_-GC-Db0M5M9FT
It is not the danger, It detects the danger. Or in more practical cases, beeps while you shut off breakers to figure out which outlet goes to what circuit.
This is why I always recommend testing wiring/equipment when doing electrical work. Even experienced electricians screw up and testing will save your life. Obviously a meter works best but I often recommend a non-contact voltage tester or "tic tracer" like this. Good luck on the next one.
Get an outlet tester. If this wasn't a problem before, I suspect somebody did a shitty job wiring up your place. If the wiring is faulty... umm... I'm not sure how to fix it but, technically, it should be your landlord's problem but things might not work that way in Indonesia.
I wouldn't plug in the PC until you've got that figured out unless you're OK with with frying your computer to get in a few more rounds of DOTA.
This is what he means.
It's about 30 bucks and will make sure a faulty cable pinout will only blow a PSU (worst case) rather then your whole system.
Check out /r/pcsleeving for all your tutorial needs.
You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.
Curious why you're both pig tailing and using all the terminals on the outlets? Do one or the other, not both. Also, what kind of tester do you have? Just one that detects a current or an actual receptacle tester like this?
In order to properly figure this out, you need to find where the line comes in to the room. Start there, hook up the outlet, turn the power back on and trace it to find the next electrical box with power.
The only reason you're having this difficulty is because there is something not hooked up correctly. Forget how the previous outlets were hooked up (unless one was a switched outlet) and start again, replacing one at a time.
>a few sessions of an hour each
Everything you said is right except this, from what I found. looking into using mine in my vehicles I found that anything over 15 minutes, on some plastics surfaces, can lead them to break down. They could be wrong, but I've always stuck to 12-15min a day max and it works well on stuff like this.
Also you need to make sure you have a ground at your outlet. without a ground these don't work properly and the one I have specifies making sure there is an active ground. a cheap receptical tool can confirm.
No way an apprentice is allowed within spitting distance of 600v. 480v maybe, and they'll never see over 240v if residential.
I always recommend Fluke T5-600 as a first meter. $108 on Amazon
Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?
You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.
If you can get a lightning-to-USB-C cable, you might find one of these useful.
Okay so main thing you want is get an impact/ drill with an Dewalt XR battery. More than likely a company will provide power tools to you though. The smaller batteries will wear out fast and you’ll constantly be charging them.
Buy all Klein hand tools. Malco is king for sheet metal other than snips, get Midwest snips if possible. After a while upgrade to a fluke multimeter and use that Uei as a backup, if you get rid of it you’ll lose the fluke the first day.
Klein makes a 18 in 1 HVAC screwdriver which is handy. Get a gerber or leather man aswell.
Lastly I’ll advise you get one of the Klein electrical detection pen things. It’s saved me from getting zapped when switches have crumbled and no longer work.
Klein Tools NCVT-2 Voltage Tester, Non-Contact Dual Range Voltage Tester Pen for Standard and Low Voltage, with 3 m Drop Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BQ46SQZGSN654X2N2SMQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Working with electricity can be a little intimidating/scary but it's really not that bad. If you don't have one, I would buy a non-contact voltage tester. Then:
1) Turn off the breaker to that circuit
2) Unscrew and remove the face plate
3) Use your voltage tester by placing it on the wires on the sides of the receptacle where the screws are. The hot wires should be the black wires, but I always test both sides to be safe (could be wired incorrectly). No beeping from tester and it should be safe to now work with.
4) Unscrew the receptacle from the wall, but don't take off the wires yet. Take a picture of how the wire are connected.
5) The outlet may have just three wires going to it (white/black/ground). In this case, the outlet is at the end of the circuit and doesn't feed any other downstream outlets. If there are two sets of wires (5 wires- two white, two black and a ground), then this outlet does feed another downstream outlet.
6) If you look at the back of your new GFCI outlet, you should see that it has a set of screws/inserts labels LINE and a set labeled LOAD. You should have the same marking on your old outlet. The LINE wires Supply the incoming power. The LOAD side send the power down to the next device.
7) Now just unscrew and disconnect the wires. Reconnect the wires the same way they were hooked up before. The black (hot) wires should be connected to the Brass/gold colored screws and the white (neutral) wires should be connected to the silver screws.
8) Most of the newer GFCI outlets work by stripping of the sheathing and just inserting the wires into the back of the outlet and tightening the wires on them.
Tighten everything down and re-install.
You local PBS channel should have current episodes and air older episodes sometimes.
Not sure if you were joking about the ceiling fan, but if the power was properly turned off then you could not get a shock. Never attempt to touch any wires without first testing them, always use some kind of Voltage Tester.
I don't think it's unreasonable for a homeowner to know how to replace a light switch or outlet. I don't do anything that involves adding to or modifying the breaker panel (besides just turning the breakers on and off, of course)
As far as DYI, I'm more inclined to work on electrical then plumbing (depends on what it is, I seem to always get some drips when finished!) and I never work on gas.
Most Seasonic PSUs have hybrid fan mode so it could be powered on but the PSU fan might not be moving.
Do you have a PSU tester? It's something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
Also, what pump are you using? The usual D5 PWM pumps have 2 different connections. One is a SATA/ molex line for power, and another is the PWM header. In order to do leak testing, the PWM header has to be disconnected and the power line connected to PSU.
What controller are you using? An Aquacomputer Quadro/ Octo? Those won't work out-of-the-box until you get into Windows and gets it recognized through the USB interface. How many fans were you trying to power with the controller? It is possible that a bad controller pulled too much current from the PSU and popped something in there.
Finally, Seasonic PSUs are known to be pretty hardy. If you had a short/ bad cable, sometimes it won't blow itself up. It just refuses to power on. I've made cables where I flipped the 12V and GND on the 8-pin EPS and my PSU just didn't want to power on. Same goes for that one time I used a Dell 6-pin peripheral SATA cable on a new Seasonic PSU. Just make sure you use the cables that came with the Seasonic, ok?
Dr power. It will last you a lifetime.
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_rDd1Fb2XF5AT9
Their diagrams don’t really have an example showing this exact use case, which can be a bit confusing.
Basically the easy part is the first three wires:
-Black: tie into 120V line, which should also be black, but it’s not a bad idea to use a non-contact voltage detector to confirm. (You should have one of these anyway to confirm wires aren’t live before you touch them - obviously you cut the power before doing any wiring.)
-white: tie into neutral, which should be white as well
-red: tie into red wires, which are you interconnect (communication between detectors)
Okay, now regardless of what you’re using the relay for, you need to use the common wire (blue). Basically when the relay is not active (no alarm), the blue wire is switched to the yellow wire (so those two wires would complete a circuit when alarm is not active). When the relay activated, the blue wire is switched to the orange wire, completing a circuit from the blue to orange wires.
The way I have the door sensor set up is that when it sees the circuit completed, it knows the alarm was triggered. This is the default for that door sensor when you configure it to use the relay.
What they’re showing in the manual is similar, but they’re activating a siren by completing the circuit between 120V and the siren.
Hopefully that makes sense.
Once you get everything hooked up, you’ll want to test your detectors and make sure everything is still working correctly.
These power meters are great for analyzing stuff like that if you ever want to compare output wattage with another bank or test out your different cables to see which ones might be bottle necking the amperage. If you leave it plugged in and drain the battery completely it'll even tally up the total actual mAh and mWh.
Thos is a really good basic meter. Does ac/dc, continuity, and non contact current.
I've used mine for years along side my 787.
Fluke T5600 Electrical Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ARBLCbQT8DPCY
For electrical tools there is the non contact voltage tester. They're great for troubleshooting but, please, always verify with a digital multimeter before you touch a circuit. A GOOD multimeter, not the $20 auto parts store special.
For a decent DMM go with Extech or Amprobe. The best stuff is Fluke. The Fluke 117 is a good, "cheap" household handyman multimeter. The 87 is the best basic meter, in my professional opinion.
Your electrical testing tools is literally the only thing separating you from deadly electricity. Don't cheap out on them. And, yes, the 120v household power is more than enough to kill you.
Any time I'm working on electric with just the switch killing the power, I always do two things:
I've seen some weird wiring in houses, and just because the switch is off it doesn't neccessarily mean the hot is off. It might just be a neutral switch - which is dumb but happens. And well, happened to me which is why I check constantly now.
Correct, but the charging circuit will not supply more power than the brick supplies. Most new bricks do supply 2 amps but there are a lot of bricks around that are 1 amp or less.
These type of meters are very handy when trying diagnose charging problems with phones, flashlights or anything using power from a usb device.
https://www.amazon.com/MakerHawk-3-7-30V-Voltage-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B07FMQZVW2/ref=sr\_1\_6
It's a small device which allows you to pick the voltage output from a power delivery charger through usb-c. https://www.amazon.com/Detector-Notebook-Self-consumption-Performance-Detector/dp/B07T6LPP9W
I'm just a homeowner but have installed lots of Kasa switches in the past and for my current home. Theoretically, you should always have line and load at a switch box (anybody correct me if I'm wrong). Line is the hot wire to provide the 120V and load is wired to your light (thus the name "load"). You can verify this by turning off the switch and only one wire should have power at this time (it's a different story if it's a 3 way switch) (You can test this with any voltage tester like this). So my guess is that you're just missing the neutral wire. If that's the case, any smart switches without requiring neutral wire would be the solution (I'd go with Lutron myself for their quality).
Look at the voltage/current requirements and calculate power required. Note that your camcorder will think it's plugged in, so might not enable battery power efficiencies (like disabling lights). USB-C at 9V will be limited to 3A (27W). A buck converter will likely be slightly more efficient, so coming down from 15V to 9V might be better then from 9 to 9.6. If you need more than 45W, you'll want to use 20V from USB-C and up to 5A from USB-C with USB-C cables rated for 5A if you need more than 60W. My brief showed a (larger) camcorder needed maybe 10W to 20W.
Your power source needs to support the voltage and power as well.
This trigger/decoy says it supports PPS and continuous voltage from 3V-21V and 6A, but your power source would need to support it also:
Type-C USB-C PD 2.0 3.0 to DC Decoy Fast Charge Trigger Poll Detector High Power 120W for Notebook Powered Change Type-C, ZYPDE Model Trigger Poll Detector Contains Any Function of ZY12PDN Model. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T6LPP9W
My only concern is setting it properly on power-up and ensuring it never outputs too high to break your camcorder input circuitry.
Since you've checked the fuses. If it has a reset button and it's hard to push, then it's probably a failed/broken GFCI outlet. The easiest way to check it is to unscrew the cover, and use a cheap electricity/voltage tester to make sure that one of the wires actually has electricity. If it does, just replace the outlet with a new GFCI outlet.
If there's no power with the tester, you could have a damaged line or circuit problem, but they are much less likely.
If I was your dad, I'd bring one of these over to help
It's a circuit tester. My dad left one at my house. I didn't think I needed it. It saved my butt.
Thanks Dad!
To be honest, not sure what it is but if you just got it from NZXT, why not just contact them?
Edit: will say it could be the PSU. Sounds like when it gets under load, things crash. They sell PSU testers. I just got one to check mine and it’s a super easy/useful thing to have on hand. This is what I got:
Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015 https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO
I would still contact NZXT and see what they say though
> A plug in polarity checker for outlets to check the wiring. Measure voltage at the outlets. Products will run on 80 volts but prefer 110 to last.
Thanks for the input. I went ahead and ordered some voltage and receptacle testers from Amazon just to be certain:
Fluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester
Southwire 40022S GFCI Receptacle Tester
> Lay down toilet paper under your last plumbing repair instead of a paper towel.
What's the purpose of this? Doesn't toilet paper just disintegrate when it gets wet?