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![Nulink Deluxe Series Desoldering Pump Solder Iron Remover Sucker Hand Tool [Blue, Plastic] [Heavy Duty]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41iBJQJFYiL._SL500_.jpg)
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Great video. I started this way but eventually just moved to one of these . Its insanely easier and kind of takes the technique factor away from it. The only thing to look out for when using one of these is that you cannot control the temperature, it is constant. Sometimes its good to unplug it for a bit and let it cool off. But its super cheap and very easy to use. It heats and sucks at the same time!
ENGINEER SS-02- it's a 'high end' solder sucker. Jammed itself within one hour of using it. The tip is metal and hot solder got stuck in it and cooled. Could not melt it again to get it out. Was so upset because everyone said it's the last solder sucker you'll ever buy.
Yeah that's literally what it's for. It's just copper braid you put it on the solder, put your heat on the other side and it sucks it into the wick once it's liquid
My advice? Buy a better solder sucker. I tried for a while with the cheap plastic sucker pump that came with my cheap-as-fuck soldering iron and I just thought I was bad at desoldering but in reality that plastic pump with the hard tip is a piece of junk. I got the Engineer SS-02 that so many people recommend and it's so much better it's nuts. I can actually desolder now.
On the other hand, if you're not in a rush you could also try to find someone with a desoldering station who could remove it for you way easier. Shipping it to someone else and then shipping it back would cost as much as the SS-02 though
I have been there a couple of times. It seems a little bit like a club that I wasn't invited to and I wasn't very impressed with the tool selection anyway as most of it I already owned personally. Not to mention that I also wouldn't show my face there if they told me that Trump stuff but I visited way before that was a problem.
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On the soldering subject. I have built several quadcopters and fixed many cars/electronics with soldering and as far as learning that goes I say get yourself and iron and some solder and go at it. The one thing I got that helped me a lot was tip cleaner/tinner to help get started with a new tip/iron. I linked it below but besides that it isn't hard to learn. One tip that really helps me, besides the tip stuff is the melt so solder on the iron before you try to heat something else up. The heat transfer through the solder works much better than just putting the iron to it. If you have any questions you can DM me and I would be happy to answer them. thanks!
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What?! No. Damp rag while it’s hot followed immediately by fresh solder or tip tinner. My favorite is a brass Brillo pad.
Thermaltronics FBA_TMT-TC-2 Lead Free Tip Tinner, 20 g in 0.8 oz. Container https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NS4J6BY/
Soldering Tip Cleaner Solder Tip Cleaning Wire and Holder Soft Coiled Brass Tip Cleaner Kit with 5 PCS Solder Tip Cleaning Wire and 1 PC Holder for Cleaning Soldering Irons and Tips, No Water Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076X1NYBB/
The switch pins won't come off, but you need to be careful to not lift the soldering pad if you want to reuse the pcb. Still, that's hard to do with the solder sucker itself. I've desoldered numerous pcb's with this guy: https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/
Just take your time and don't force anything.
I bought that same 63/37 Maiyum and I had trouble with it, but it may have been because I had just started soldering and didn't know what I was doing. I highly recommend Kester 63/37 solder. It has a lot of flux in the core and flows really nicely; it's very easy to work with. It's a little pricy, but you get a big roll of it that may last you a long time. Here's a link to the Kester I use:
Yeah no problem. This is by far one of the best desoldering pumps I've ever used. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr\_1\_2?dchild=1&keywords=desoldering+pump+japan&qid=1623908036&sr=8-2
I'm guessing he's referring to chemical tip cleaner products like Thermaltronics FBA_TMT-TC-2 Lead Free Tip Tinner, which are amazing at recovering grungy tips.
There used to be a device that sucked the solder off. It had a plunger button that you clicked down and an end with a small tube. You hold the device like a pencil or another soldering iron. When the solder pools after heating you click the button on the device and it sucks the solder off. It was a pretty ingenious device if it still exists.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_NVH2F8JQY6DFCNQ9D5ZD
Found one
I‘ll be in Berlin in two weeks and can bring my soldering iron and desoldering Station to fix this with you.
If you want to do it yourself you only need a good soldering station with temperature regulation from Weller or Hakko. A simple high quality solder sucker (I use this one) should be enough for a single switch and it’s not really hard to do it. Just search on YouTube there are plenty of great soldering and desoldering tutorials.
If you plan to desolder more in the future you should definitely consider getting a desoldering station. The one I got from Amazon is not so expensive and if you need to desolder a whole board it saves a lot of time and hassle.
Kester #44-flux 63/37 alloy 0.031" is hands-down the best I've used. That #44-formula flux precleans the surfaces to be joined, especially if you aim the tip of your solder so that it's pointing into the joint between surfaces as it melts, because then the flux spits right into the joint as it boils. Of course, there are limits -- if leads are corroded, heavily oxidized or visibly tarnished, you should scrub them first with a piece of flattened braid (from a piece of coax?) or Scotchbrite, so the flux and solder can get purchase.
63/37 is a better alloy for quick soldering for electronics than 60/40, especially for beginners. That "eutectic" alloy doesn't have a long "paste" period in its cooling where the lead is solidifying but the tin is still molten, so it's less likely to form "cold" solder joints due to being disturbed while cooling. If you're scrimping on fixturizing your assembly setup (to hold everything immobile), that can make a difference as to whether you'll need to reheat a joint to get it to conduct right.
0.031" is a good size for through-hole work. 0.025" is good too, a little more precise but you use it up a little faster too, and it's more costly on the sites I checked. 0.020" or 0.015" are more for SMD touchups and hybrids. If you're breaking out the wide-tipped iron or soldering gun to do heavy work (like PL-259 connectors or grounding straps), you'll need a thicker solder, of course, otherwise you'll use up your 0.031" too quickly. It'll work, it'll just be wasteful.
The above is an Amazon link. Mouser carries Kester too, at a higher price. I expect that all the big distributors do too, but the stuff lasts years (I recently bought a 1-lb spool, looking towards the end of the spool I bought in the 80's), so I haven't looked there in quite awhile.
this one on Amazon price can go up and down you might be able to find it as low as 10 bucks.
/u/imyke if you're getting into Soldering, user flux, it makes the work so much easier, I solder and repair boards for a living and it makes soldering go from mizerable to relatively easy. You can use this flux which is my favorite https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-Pneumatic-Dispenser-Dispensing/dp/B00425FUW2/
Other helpful tips: 350C is good temperature to lock at on your iron, and heat up the wires/connections your soldering too, then bring in the solder. Let me know if you want any other help!
Which board..? If DNA, appropriate wire gauges will be listed in the data sheet.
But generally, 16-12 gauge for the high current stuff & 24-20 gauge for low current stuff.
Unless you have a specific reason for lead free solder, leaded will flow much better: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/
Would recommend some additional flux also: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2/ (clean up with isopropyl alcohol & qtips - even thought it says "no clean")
No worries. By the way, regardless of the iron you get you should definitely get some good flux like this: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_16ZXX2D2QDHRKNRT8FGB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
The flux that comes as a paste is ok, but good flux does wonders. Some other recommendations are wick, good tweezers + flush cutters + pliers (hakko makes good stuff) and a good vice. If you really want to get into it you might even want to invest in a usb microscope, but I wouldn't invest too much if you're just starting. A good iron with a good tip and good flux will do wonders.
It was a different brand name but I think this is literally the same device as the one I have. Same color and everything.
Did he over push the cable on the TV's end as well?
Anyway this type of console repair is easy for soldering beginners. You just need basic tools, desoldering braid, flux, a solder sucker and patience. If you want to make your life easier get an Engineer SS-02 solder sucker for a tad more money.
EDIT: So this happens regardless of what cable you test it with? Do you get the buzz with a different device?
I'm also going to start learning to solder next week. One of the things I've seen highly recommended is to get tip tinner to prolong the life of the iron tips. Sorry I don't have any more suggestions but hope it helps mate.
This. Get this. It's cheap, and works like a charm. It's not exactly the highest quality and the fucker takes a few minutes to hear up, but I found it makes it suuuuuper easy to desolder when braids isn't doing the trick.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B88FRME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_K3W22B623YMPK0CTHNS1
I highly recommend one of these, in addition to solder braid and some good flux. That desoldering iron/pump has saved several boards when inevitably make mistakes. It's not the most quality tool and it takes like 5min to hear up, but it definitely works.
Maybe I'll get better with solder braid eventually but all I know is this thing works for me every time.
You have two options aside from a de-soldering iron:
- A solder sucker like this or similar
- desoldering wick (many of these exist and you can get them cheap on amazon)
Jokes aside I always thought it might be a novel idea to make a fine adjust hammer. Like instead of a traditional hammer it would be a spring loaded plunger thing with a fine adjust for how far back you can pull it before locking into place, so you can set how much force it hits with.
Likethis but in reverse. Or possibly like a auto center punch with a wide hammer face instead of a sharp point
Cover it in flux paste and use the drag method for applying the solder. Makes it super easy.
SRA Soldering Products Rosin Paste Flux #135 In A 2 oz Jar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_7Fw3FbQ992K2V
hiii :) looking for soldering advice on my first build!
i know this solder is recommended within the community: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_67e3FbQBTTHN9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
it's too just much solder! so i wanna pick up this one instead: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Sjf3FbKWZ29TE
but my question is if the 63/37 solder very different from 60/40 solder? if it is, does anyone else have any reccs of a smaller container of appropriate solder?
also does anyone recommend i buy a heat resistant/soldering mat to work on? or do i not need it for something like keyboards?
ty!!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DJRYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_M-u0Fb0CC282F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The best $17 bucks you'll spend. Works extremely well. I was able to desolder a 75% in around 30 mins....no idea the longevity of it, but at this price I'll just buy a new one when I need it, lol
Also available on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a bit more, but hey guaranteed shipping timeframe so it's worth it to me. Thanks for the tip, I've been using wick and about to do a 104 key, let's hope this baby lasts through that.
Does Amazon sell internationally? I have no idea. The best solder is this stuff https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you can find kester 63/37 anywhere that'll ship to you that's the stuff. I wasted a lot of money on little tubes from my hardware store until I just stocked up with a reel of this