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Alright, this is absolutely the lowest i have ever seen these.
DRY FIRE PRACTICE WARNING:
the majority of your shots should be in single action. You can eventually break the trigger return spring if your practice in majority double action as it puts more wear on the spring.
Get snap caps or these to place between your hammer and firing pin. You can eventually break the firing pin retaining pin by dry firing on an empty chamber. Also
Again, this is only an issue if you plan on doing excessive dry fire practice. I've done both as I need the practice. Both are cheap and easy to replace, but better to take preventative steps.
Corsair K70 RGB (MX Reds) here,
Totally agree with this guy, the O rings make a nice difference, there is less travel but you get used to it. I was surprised to find that there wasn't a difference in the light output when the O-Rings go on. Just search amazon for "keyboard o rings". I ended up buying these.
Adding to the information about the O-rings.
I have one in brown and blue and use these and it made the keyboard so much better. Bought 3 packs to fully do it to two keyboards.
I was unsure about the amazon ones since they don't specify that they will work for keyboards.
Would these work?
They taste is like this, sans o-ring was like a crisp apple. With o-ring the end was like a dried apricot. For me the bounce was very subtle. My setup is browns and I bottom out. So for me this was nice because it deadened the sound even more. The feel to me was just fine. I have since changed keyboards to another brown board but without o-rings. If I was not lazy I would add them back again. But I am waiting for my new caps so I don't want to have to do it twice.
If I were you I would get the o-rings from Amazon here. They are ~2$ at that price you can afford it not working out for you without much penalty.
Hm? Do you mean O-rings? If so, no - that's literally all they are. You just fit them around your keycap stems and it works the same on any switch. Just keep in mind that clicky switches like blues will still be loud.
I went brown to not completely drive my family crazy. Unfortunately, I've been toting it between home and work, and now I want to buy another for the office. THAT one will have blues :D
If you're looking to add o-rings, someone tipped me off to these $2 beauties on amazon and they're working wonderfully.
I had no idea O-rings were basically just industry specific rubber rings you don't have to buy at $18 from a keyboard shop.(makes sense when you think about it)
Mind blown, bought 200 of these for $4.
Listen to this guy. There's no reason at all to spend a bunch on o-rings. At worst, buy the Rosewill ones off of Amazon for $10 instead.
I saw these ones in the "other items" on the ones you linked. I think you may have meant to link these ones instead, for they have a lot of reviews.
Ye, in retrospect I think I was. But its still off-putting to see that sort of pricing.
Here's the link for the Buna-N O-rings - 70A Durometer. They are actually from Amazon for $2.08 with free shipping if you have prime! And with a slightly higher durometer, they aren't as mushy, while still killing the "clack"!
using mine at the office - so I got these: [link]
There is still the nice audible click and tactile bump, but the sound is dampened. Bottoming out without these is loud when compared to a "normal" keyboard.
I'd say it's such a minute difference between them, I opted to buy some small rubber rings instead of branded "o-rings". You can check them out here! They work fine for me!
Any Cherry MX board will do as long as it isn't Greens or Blue switches, since those have the slider mechanism that causes the high pitch click. In fact, even Cherry MX clones will do fine, such as the Kailh switches (the blues are the clicky loud ones). Your best bet on a cheap MX switch style board is the Noppoo Lolita Spyder which can be had for about $60 on Amazon.
Next, you need O-rings to silence the downstroke of the keycap striking the top of the switch housing. O-rings of size 008 will fit. Durometer is the measure of hardness for an o-ring. 40A is on the squishy side while 70A is quite firm and nearly keeps the feel of a solid keystroke. These are an example of cheap, reliable, and widely available o-rings.
Alternatively you may use soft-landing pads from Elite Keyboards to do the same thing. Given their foam construction, some believe it to be a better sound damper than o-rings.
This mod will quiet down most Cherry MX boards, but there isn't much you can do to quiet it further. The reason is that while the downstroke is considerably quieter, the upstroke cannot be silenced because there is no way to cushion the upstroke. The way to get around this is to type in such a way that you don't lift your fingers quickly enough to cause the keys to slam back up on return.
You can go quieter than this by selecting a Topre board and doing what is called the dental band mod. Since Topres use rubber domes, they are already quiet on the down stroke. The dental band mod silences the upstroke of the key by preventing the slider from hitting the top of the switch housing. However, this is on the expensive side of things considering the high cost of a Topre board, the cheapest of which would probably be either the Cooler Master Novatouch TKL (on sale with a rebate) or the Topre Typeheaven (not really on sale).
Edit: Convenient video testing Topres with and without dental bands, and a Cherry MX board without any dampening.
EDIT: sorry to gundeals you but Deguns has them for 536.99 shipped with code (ship30).
The problem seems to be that the ones that really reduce travel distance also seem to be the mushiest. Seems like most people who are installing o-rings are doing it for sound not how far your keys depress :(
I've only found one real "review" on o-rings in general and the guy was using blues not reds so not sure how much it will tell me. At $20 a pop for a set it's kind of a sucky "guess and check" situation I feel like.
Edit: I think I found my answer: 70A... the number is a measure of hardness not size! Now I just have to find the right thickness in them...
Edit 2: Found them! 70A O-rings on amazon. Code 008 for the 1/16" and code 106 for the 3/32". At $2 a pop I can actually guess and check with these.
I don't know why my google-foo was sucking so much last night. I must have been tired.
If you type forcefully then most of the noise is from the former, You can get o-rings for your blackwidow, without needing a new keyboard! If you aren't set on getting a new keyboard try it first, razer even sells a (Overpriced) o ring kit. Or you could get this If you get the secound you will also need a keycap puller, which the razer kit includes. It will still be cheaper, esp if you have amazon prime.
The only reason you would need a new keyboard is if the click it makes before it hits the bottom is too loud, or you want something nicer then a razer.
You want 70a durometer, 50a is still pretty soft. Use two if one is not enough.
Looking for O-rings solely for the purpose of reducing key travel. Sound doesn't bother me. I also don't want them to feel "squishy", so I'm looking for a hard durometer.
Using this guide I'm looking for at least 50A hardness. It also seems I want pretty thick rings to reduce key travel. The graphic mentions 0.10" thickness. But I can't seem to find any. These are 0.07". And these mention 0.4 mm reduction. I'm not sure what thickness that corresponds to, but it doesn't seem like a lot.
Does anyone have a tip on where to look for thick O-rings?
Which part of the switch is too loud? Blues have a click, made by the switch, and a clack, made by bottoming out. The click is inherent to the blues, but the clack can be mitigated with O Rings. If not, you could look at the Cooler Master Quickfire Rapid with browns and O rings, as browns have no inherent click, and the o rings would dampen the clack.
Browns aren't clicky. Technically it's the clack (switch hitting the housing on the way back up or bottoming out) she has a problem with.
If it is the latter, check out /u/tru3gam3r 's suggestion personally I bought these and they're fine.
To see the difference between a clicky switch and a non-clicky switch, see the following pages and the images on them:
Cherry MX Blue
Cherry MX Brown
Edit: Added a link to Click vs Clack
Depends on the o-rings. I was able to get some from amazon quicker than the GB: [link]
I use these from Amazon. 2$, higher durometer rating to avoid the mushiness, and not price-gouging like WASD's stuff.
For your dry firing needs:
I have a couple bags of these: [link]
They work okay, but I'm thinking I want to experiment with thinner, softer o-rings, if I can find them cheap enough.
Here's a couple links I have noted while browsing /r/MK:
Deciding the thickness and hardness seem to be the other considerations.