You size the wires using a Voltage Drop Table. Many recommend this one from Blue Sea. http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Select the voltage. (12V) Then put in the ampere load. (20A) Now the length of the wire, the total length, positive plus negative. (??) I then change the 3% to 1%. This helps allow for voltage drop in the crimps and connections. Select the insulation rating of the wire you are using. I use marine grade 105^C.
Side note; I have difficulty finding any wire ends for 8AWG. But did you try Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Disconnect-Electrical-Connector-Terminal/dp/B0844VWS35/ref=sr\_1\_16?dchild=1&keywords=8+AWG+crimp+spade+terminals&qid=1623853178&sr=8-16
from the original wire to the high limit. The post is the one on the bottom left in this pic: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ttbnqqy55yyz2w8/20201019_141312.jpg?dl=0
I ordered the 8awg disconnect from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/10-Heat-Shrink-Insulated-8-Gauge-Female-Spade-Quick-Disconnect-250-Stud-Electrical-Wire-Connector/dp/B0844VWS35/ref=cm_wl_huc_item and i'm hoping they'll fit. if not, i'll probably need to solder. My question was if i had to solder, do i or should i cover the connection with anything and now i know electric tape is no good. The original Female disconnect does fit that post..hopefully the 8 AWG will as well and then i should be good. Whether a new heating coil actually solves the problem or not is another story :-)
Brings to mind one more question tho - is there something i can use to clamp the wire to the terminal temporarily just to see if a new heating element (and some other parts i replaced) solves the problem? i gather tape is no good. Would a simple alligator clip or a small pair of locking pliers be ok to make a temporary connection? thx