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2-Pack TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts for Ender 5 / Pro/Plus 3D Printer, Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm Acme Threaded Rod Eliminate The Gap Spring (Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm)?
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New machine I presume? They don't come prelubricated it seems, so you also may need to lubricate the smooth rods. If that doesn't fix it, buy some POM antibacklash nuts like these. You want the 8x4 (2mm pitch, 4mm lead)
It's a pretty common issue with these machines, and I think it's related to how heavy the bed is. I've also seen people having success with "breaking in the machine" by writing a gcode that raises and lowers the bed for hours on end.
If you are sill using the brass z-axis nuts, any screeching you are hearing is most likely coming from these brass nuts. No matter what lubrications I used, I could not get it to shut up. I ended up upgrading to a POM Anti-Backlash nut and it has not made a peep since.
I would also avoid using any greasy or oily lubricants as dust and dirt collects on the rods and may cause issues as well as needing to be cleaned on a regular basis. I ended up using a 100% dry-film Teflon Coating and lubricant made by DuPont and that has worked really well... almost to well.
Here is the link to the POM nuts I used.
Hope this helps.
2-Pack TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts for Ender 5 / Pro/Plus 3D Printer, Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm Acme Threaded Rod Eliminate The Gap Spring (Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WETWQTJEWF3EGW3S6TS4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I went from using multi purpose lithium grease every month or so and getting annoyed when I would touch my z screw and getting grease on my hand....
I then ordered POM nuts this one in fact
2-Pack TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts for Ender 5 / Pro/Plus 3D Printer, Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm Acme Threaded Rod Eliminate The Gap Spring (Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_5PWFTM1AHCAMDA82MJ64
Hope this helps as it did me without having to grease the z screws for over 4 months now
Mine did this for a couple weeks and then just stopped, no other printers just the ender 5 plus, you could try some anti backlash lead screw holders.
2-Pack TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts for Ender 5 / Pro/Plus 3D Printer, Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm Acme Threaded Rod Eliminate The Gap Spring (Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8SEWCZFB7JKEAZHG42PS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just put those on last weekend. Even if you don't want those specific ones, the link will tell you the thread pitch and everything you need to get what you want.
They aren't universally compatible as there are different threaded rods.
2-Pack TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts for Ender 5 / Pro/Plus 3D Printer, Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm Acme Threaded Rod Eliminate The Gap Spring (Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8SEWCZFB7JKEAZHG42PS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those are the ones I ordered that work perfectly. But, if you don't like those, the description has the thread pitch information so you can order whicher ones you like. As far as the rod length goes, I believe it's like 480, but not sure and it doesn't impact the nuts.
Hopefully that stabilizes it but if you're still getting a lot of rubbing, enabling Z-Hop may help during travel moves. However this can cause other issues and I'd strongly recommend getting POM anti-backlash nuts. It's debatable how much they help when not using Z-hop or auto leveling but either way I think they're more consistent than the crappy stock nuts. I strongly recommend the POM over brass versions.
Also if you aren't already, consider using a bed mesh. Creality's beds are often a bit warped and this only gets worse when heated. This means some areas will always be closer to the nozzle. Adding a probe is truly worth it but a manual mesh is doable.
Sure. I bought THESE.
Pretty sure they're the same set most folks link to, but at worst, it's the same thing with a different brand name slapped on the box.
...and my mistake on the previous posts. It was 100% the threaded rods and nuts that made the noise and NOT the guide rods. Specifically, it was just the one on the right-side. I could push the tip toward the center of the printer during a print, and just a bit of pressure would completely eliminate the squeaks.
Pom anti back lash nuts 2mm pitch 4mm lead I believe are the correct ones. No more squealing
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C
this is the set I got for my printer. It is indeed the screeching noise when the bed goes down. It completely wiped out the noise from it and the little z-banding I did have in prints went away at the same time.
been a while since I had the original board, but here are a few issue. Do you have the yellow springs? You have leveled all four corners? Then did the 16pt test AND saved the results? I had a rough time with the factory installed Marlin. I did change it to to vanilla marlin, but did not have the 4 corner option. You can do a marlin text file that will do it and I deleted mine after I replaced the board since new marlin has that feature available. But it is on Youtube, Dr. Vax. just have to edit it for your bed size. Will double check and see if I still have it and can post it if I do. Now other issues, could be bltouch, the brass pieces could be loose (common) and should be replaced with pom anti backlash nuts.
I couldn't get rid of the squeaking even after slathering grease on the z-rods, so I installed a pair of POM anti backlash nuts a few weeks ago and have been really happy with them so far. Granted, I only owned the printer for a month or so before I made the swap, so maybe it would have worked itself out in time.
Hey there!
I've got a problem with my Ender 5 Pro, which may have been an issue from the start which i didn't notice. My Ender 5 already has an Microswiss Direct Drive now, but lately i've had a lot of problems with z banding (i thought, at least).Now after adding this to my z axis rod: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o06\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i took a look at the x and y carriages. Both the X and Y had some points on the rail where they "snap" in? i thought okay, it must be the wheels then, changed all of them, and for the moment it was okay, everything was smooth. Now after a little test print (see the picture) these ""dents" or whatever i should call them are back. So now i'm kinda stuck. Not sure what could be the problem. The black rail where the wheels grind into feels completely smooth. So i thought i'd ask here for help. My Ender is now almost a year old. Using latest version of Marlin with Octoprint. But the problem seems to be a hardware issue i think.I can send a picture of the X/Y Rails later, but i'm currently at work. :)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
I brought the lead 4mm and can confirm it fit for Ender 5 plus. Tips:You can use a cordless power drill to unscrew/screw back the long lead screw during installation. My greased lead screw took me forever to reinstall by hand.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Y7GZ41EYG3C5N6NW5T1G
I also order flexible couplers. I did regrease the rods as i had some squeaking when the machine was first assembled.
Ill look into the bed temp, i did turn off eco mode one day 1 also.
All aboard! It sounds like a N gauge choo choo. I would replace the brass guides with Pom nut fittings and level the bed per the instructions in the build guide. Here’s the Pom nuts that I use. Link
No they are for the bed plate leveling screws. There are no springs in the system to keep the bed from falling. You can try using (POM anti-backlash nuts from Amazon)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/], but they're not guaranteed to make it any better, they're really designed to help with taking up backlash, not keeping the bed up.
Look up POM anti-backlash on Amazon. They work great!
These worked on my 5+: 2-Pack 3D Printer TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts for Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm Acme Threaded Rod Eliminate The Gap Spring DIY CNC Accessories (Pitch 2mm Lea https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_A7eV5RmT2yp5Z
I put these on my 5 plus, no more squeaky
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought these nuts, based on the recommendation of another member of this forum.
2-Pack 3D Printer TR8x4 T8 POM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Its fine when its all powered, only happens with power off, this should not have anything to do with voltage at this point. I did notice that after I press on each side z screw spins a bit lowering that side. I think its because the new backlash guides have much less friction than brass so screw doesn't have the same stability. I bought these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 not realizing they are not metal. So I may replace for brass version since these might be too slippery good :)
I had this at first on my right side rod, but after I greased my threaded rods with superlube and a number of prints evened it out, it didn't seem to do this anymore.
Overall its pretty common, especially if you have 8mm lead threads. My E5P came with 4mm lead. When most people "fix" this problem, they usually swap to 2mm lead screws. First, the bed wont fall on its own anymore, second the flatter thread profile results in more steps per revolution and thus better accuracy in the z-axis. This enables you to do more layer height variations without the printer having to round up or down. The only real downside if you print with z-hop during retraction, it might result in longer print time if there are a lot of retractions.
The other fix that might be easier to start with, is to install anti-backlash nuts on your threaded rods. You just need to confirm which lead you have. You will need to know which lead type you have to order the correct nuts.
If you go into terminal run M503. In the output, look at the M92 setting:
echo:Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z800.00 E93.00
If Z is 400 then you have 8mm lead and very likely to fall on its own. If Z is 800 like mine, then you have 4mm lead which is only slightly likely to fall, usually only if you bump it trying to remove parts. If Z is 1600 then you already have a 2mm lead but that would be surprising to me.
Here is the link to the anti-backlash nuts (see there is a choice for 2mm/4mm/8mm lead)
...waist of money upgrades... shitty extruder, board, tube etc real upgrades: TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts
Same problem. Same solution.
I bought THESE
Pitch 2mm Lead 4mm
Yea, the E5 Pro's bed seems to have a problem of magically sinking when you aren't looking. It's one of several reasons I wish I had just gone with the E5 Plus as my first printer. That said, I bought these Anti Backlash Nuts for the long Z-axis screw that makes the bed go up and down, and it helped a lot:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C
I personally find them a pain in the ass to install, but almost everything is with 3D printers in my experience, which I'm told is much as if I've been cursed.
The screeching is from the z axis lead screws and the metal nuts on them.
One of these days I plan on replacing them with these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2-Pack TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts for Ender… | $8.98 | $8.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2-Pack TR8x4 T8 POM Anti Backlash Nuts for Ender… | $8.98 | $8.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Material POM
Fastener Material POM
Thread Style TR8X4
Brand POLISI3D
About this item
Lead means Nut turn one circle,How far the screw forwards
POM material is durable and silent.
Color is black
Package: 2 sets POM nut kit like the first photo shows
8mm lead is with 4 starts; 4mm lead is with 2 starts, 2mm lead is with 1starts
If you are using the stock you MUST pom anti backlash nuts. . The noise was driving me nuts. I tried all type of lubrication options. But these made worrying about it a thing of the past!!! You MUST try it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did not try the metal one. I've had these for a few weeks and they work GREAT!
Yep it is normal but annoying. I got this and I love it!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Both of you should look at putting POM anti backlash nuts on your z screws. I had the same issue with the ear piercing squeaking when moving the bed down. This made it silent!
These are the ones I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C
and here is a video on how to swap them out:
Both of you should look at putting POM anti backlash nuts on your z screws. I had the same issue with the ear piercing squeaking when moving the bed down. This made it silent!
These are the ones I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C
and here is a video on how to swap them out:
I got these ones https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is a video that talks about the benefits of them, including stopping the squeaking. (skip to upgrade 4).
I went with these and am glad I did. Silent operation now.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Backlash-Threaded-Eliminate-Accessories/dp/B07XYR3F4C
LOL, no. That's just been my experience. I did a lot of research before I bought my first 3d printer and decided on the E5+. My experience just hasn't been the best. Since I've subscribed to this sub, I've seen others showing off very nice prints using a stock printer.
From what I've learned through this process, I highly recommend these upgrades.
These you can do without modifying any software or config changes, they just make things more stable:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082Z1193P
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S2R5C6P
​
This for me was the magic trick:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094Y77FQN
I went with the TFT50 screen but the TFT35 is also very popular, just pick the size you want.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089YF4WD
These stepper drivers are more powerful than the stock E5+ drivers and a thousand times quieter and also offer more options down the road for doing things like sensorless X,Y homing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YW7BM68
​
Also, these will make X, Y slide like butter: https://www.exoslide.com/products/kits/ender5plus-XY but was probably the most involved and time consuming upgrade.
No problem! I'm happy to help. :)
2 start means there are two threads going around each other (compared to regular screws which are 1 start). 4 start means there are four threads going around each other.
I believe all the recent E5+ models are 2 start. I purchased these TR8 2mm pitch 4mm lead 2 start POM nuts for my printer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/
I decided against brass nuts to stop any squeaking and from what I read, the POM material is "self lubricating" so you don't need to add any lube to them.
I recently had a similar issue (just not as bad) on my Ender 5+, it almost appears that the z was getting stuck at certain spots and not raising or lowering properly. When I got my printer I replaced the brass nuts with POM anti-backlash ones. I took a clean soft brush and ran up and down my threaded rods several times while raising and lowering the bed, then put Super Lube on and ran the bed up and down several more times wiping off the excess afterwards. That seemed to have fixed it for me, so it leads me to think it may have been dust buildup inside the threads of the anti-backlash nuts.
Yup, one seller's the same as another as far as I'm concerned. Too lazy to be paranoid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00 Grab a set of these now.
https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-SE-600-24-Supply-Single/dp/B00DEDB2U2/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_2_7
That's the power supply I got. Haven't installed it yet, I'm trying to get PETG nailed down enough to print upgrade parts, gonna apply the Microswiss direct dual drive extruder and all metal hotend, relocate the electronics, and remodel my enclosure at the same time - that's gonna be a busy weekend.
The lead screw isn't the problem, it's the cheap brass nuts where the lead screw goes in that's the problem.
Replace them with POM ones, and the squeak goes away permanently.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Backlash-Threaded-Eliminate-Accessories/dp/B07XYR3F4C?th=1
Yeah, mine needed to be realigned and needed some grease. My right side was a little higher then the left side.
I also replaced the brass fittings with poly ones and so far no issue.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(I got the Pitch 2mm and Lead 4mm)
POM nuts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_JfeB4Uu1f1EyD
Couplers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9TVW64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_gRuiOUGyHv9Sx
Having the dampening and squish on the z screws, along with them being free at the top is what eliminates the vibrations that can affect the print.
I'll see if I can snap some pics installed.
2-Pack 3D Printer TR8x4 T8 POM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYR3F4C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Install some of these too
You can also buy the nuts in POM https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR3F4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I went to them to solve a problem that showed up in taller prints but they also help with squawks. Something else that helps a small amount is https://www.amazon.com/Coupling-Aluminum-Connector-Leadscrew-Flexible/dp/B07YYBQHVX
I forgot how noisy the steppers were with the stock controller board !!
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