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I can, and have previously. It worked pretty well. I don't have exact sizes for my furniture, but it is large. The sofa, with back cushions removed, is about the size of a twin bed. It is ridiculously comfortable.
I will try to arrange it back that way. We use the bar for almost nothing, so blocking it isn't a huge deal.
Thanks again, I posted in /r/hometheater as well for layout advice. I pulled the trigger on the speaker set, and on this sub.
While it may work, your HTIB won't output any more power than 330w, if that's what it's rated for. You'd probably want to get a self amplified sub with line level inputs, such as the BIC America F12
Your sub budget is way out of proportion with the rest of your system. You can get the Dayton in the short term but you really should spend more on your sub. Minimum I would get with that setup is this: [link]
And really that's still skimping on the sub.
Go with the B652 AIR, the AMT tweeter is nice. I'd buy 3 pair ( they are only available in pairs.) Keep one as a backup and use one as a center speaker. If you are dead set on lowest cost a Dayton sub will fit the bill but you'd do yourself a favor if you stretched your budget just a bit to fit this: [link]
As budget subs go that's king. You'd have a total of approx. $390 for all of this.
That AVR is not a bad unit. If it has enough inputs I would just keep it for now and upgrade something else. That sub would be first on my hit list.
Most of the time you're only going to be using >30 or so watts to get to a pretty loud volume level especially with those speakers. They have a 90dB sensitivity so really 10 watts will get it to about 100dB at 1 meter. I don't think upgrading to get a few more watts is worth it.
Like some others have mentioned getting better room correction would help but I don't know that you're going to notice a huge difference. Upgrade the sub and see if that helps. BIC F12 for $200 would be a good place to start looking.
> I understand that probably the BEST bet is to sell those bookshelf and invest in bigger floor speakers…
I don't agree. Adding subs is a much better option, and that's what I'd do here, just with a different sub than you are looking at. The $60ish more for a Bic F12 will be noticed and won't end up being a bottleneck in the future - you would actually use these with slightly higher end systems unlike those you link.
Great feedback. I was thinking of going with 1's with a sub [link]
, but if you feel the 3's sound great without a sub I would go that route since I don't want to waste too much space.
I am just starting off for now. Would you recommend the 3's by themselves without a sub? I would be using them in our 900sq ft basement rec room (viewing area of projector is 14x12 with sound bouncing off a nearby bar to the right of the screen). We use the projector for watching movies and some TV. When we have get together down there I would like to play music via bluetooth.
Subwoofer is a BIC F12 (link). I suppose I could just run both inputs to the sub, keep the bookshelf speakers on the switch, and remember not to turn them on at the same time. I guess I was hoping for a more elegant solution, but there I go overcomplicating it again I suppose. Hopefully the day I forget to turn one off doesn't blow the sub.
I used to have a PSW10 a long time ago. IMO it's one of worst budget subs on the market. At the $200 price range either this Klipsch or the BIC F12 would make a big difference
[link]. Even the Dayton 10" or 12" would be an upgrade.
You could also get 2 BIC F-12's for that range ($219 a piece or so.) I'd check acoustic sound design for this one as well if they stock it. These are very well reviewed in its price range also. Plus you'd have 2 !
Awesome, thank you. That was one of the receivers i was already considering. Do I need to purchase any sort of DAC? The subwoofer I'm looking it to is this one, as it's been suggested around the comments a few times. Would you recommend it? It appears to have a high pass filter.
> a Bic America subwoofer.
How do you like that sub? I was planning on using it for my home theater. Likely won't be the end-all be-all, but it seemed a good starting place.
EDIT: Said amp, but meant sub. Sleepy, I guess.
They absolutely can be used for a home theater, but that other setup will sound better, but it's of course >2.5x the price, the center alone costs as much as all 3 Micca's. You won't be disappointed with the Micca's, but they won't be as good as the ELAC's. "Are the ELAC's worth >2.5x the price?", well that's up to you (and your budget).
That subwoofer only goes down to 35Hz with an RMS of 100w. I would suggest the BIC F12 (it looks much better as well).
assuming you're asking for just a subwoofer i'd say definitely go with the bic america f12
let me know if you need help setting it up, depending on your source and other speakers.
If you're able to stretch your subwoofer budget, I'd say spend the extra $100 and get this beast: [link]
Muuuuuuch much better bass for not much more money.
I was thinking about
BIC America F12 12-Inch 475-Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer
but this requires me to get a mixer and it's a little over budget.
i bought this sub
So just snagged the JBL LSR308 to replace my fluance signature series passive powered bookshelfs that were hooked up to an AVR via speaker wire and the sub via coax .
They came with foam isolation blocks and xlr cables all for 200 for the whole set. Pretty dope!
Anyway I understood it all until I realized I could only hookup the speakers to my pc (using 1/4inch to aux splitter) and had no idea what to do with the (bic america f12 subwoofer)
So how do I hookup my bic america f12 sub to my jbl lsr305's? Coax to aux cable and plug that into the sub input on my mobo? Do I need a audio interface with a l/r and sub channel if they even make those. Help and thanks in advance!
I was looking at this one (particularly cause it matched the brand of others) and its not a whole lot more with a much high wattage(but that may not be as important as I thought)