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I got an X2 mill several years ago, outfitted it with the CNCFusion kit and started milling lots of things, including PCBs. Slightly overkill for PCBs, but it's dual use in this case. I'm looking for suggestions, or ideas on what everyone else is doing for PCB milling, or other PCB fab ideas. I like my results, but I'd like a little more speed, better precision, double-sided board techniques, etc.

Here's an album of my setup: http://imgur.com/gallery/aH0tH/new

I'm using EagleCAD to design the PCB, and PCBGCODE to generate the gcode, then Mach3 to cut the board. I'm using a DIY aluminum PCB fixture that holds the board flat and secure. It's a little limited on different board sizes, but I'm working on another design with movable hold-downs.

My first issue is that I'm limited to 2500 RPMs, and using a "2 flute" spade bit type cutter, I can cut at 6IPM with a decent cut (after some light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper) at a depth of ~0.003in. For aluminum I use bigger cutters, so speed isn't really an issue, but for PCBs, I'd like to be up around 10K-20K RPMs. There's a kit to increase the speed of the spindle to 5K RPMs for $89 9http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4151&category=1311958022), which would give me the same low runout I have now (It's so small I can't measure it with my tools/skills), but only doubles my spindle speed. I'm also looking at other add-on "engraving" spindles which seem to have a low runout for ~$150 (http://www.amazon.com/LD52GF-400W-Engraving-Milling-Controller-Spindle/dp/B00IFUM1Z4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1423161645&sr=8-7&keywords=engraving+spindle) that go up to 12K RPMs, but that involves an extra power supply, extra spindle control for Mach3, and extra weight and mounting on the mill head. I've considered the Dremel route, but I'm not sure about the runout. Suggestions?

Anyone else used different cutters? I've looked at some pretty small end mills (0.025mil - 0.4mil), which would likely give me a much better cut, but I'm worried about the durability of those. They're also much more expensive.

My second issue is that I often need to do double-sided boards, or be stuck with "air-wires" or goofy TINY traces, which makes soldering a PITA. There's an example of my air-wire trick in the album. I tried a double-sided board by drilling 2 1/8" holes in my board and fixture, and using a drill bit to register the board when I flip it. That works OK, but any little wiggle makes the traces/holes off, and it's a pain zero the X/Y axis when I mill the board. I've thought of putting the drill bit in the mill collet, which will make zeroing X/Y easier, but I need to use 2 holes to register on to flip. Suggestions?

If I do finally get double-sided PCBs working well, I'll likely be using "vias" at some point. How do I solder both sides of the board together through vias? For pads with a pin going through them, it's a non-issue. I may have answered my own question ... scrap wire through the hole?

The third issue is software. I like my current method. Even though EagleCAD is counter-intuitive at times, it's what I know. PCBGCODE certainly does the job, but I'd like some other options that might be a little easier to use or have a little more community/paid support. I'm almost to the point where I might want a PCB shop to make a few boards for me, but I have zero knowledge about Gerber files or what else they would need.

Forth thing I need advice on is soldering. I can mill pads for 0603 SMD parts reliably, but I'm using a cheap Velman soldering iron and wire solder, both the smallest Fry's has to offer. I'm considering a hot air tool, but that's quite an investment and awfully slow. I also have considered solder paste, but making stencils seems like a real PITA for small batches of boards (I never make more than 10 boards). BTW, where is everyone getting their copper boards? I'm paying through the nose at Digikey. I love their parts, quick shipping, good price on most things, but certain things are just overpriced.

I got an X2 mill several years ago, outfitted it with the CNCFusion kit and started milling lots of things, including PCBs. Slightly overkill for PCBs, but it's dual use in this case. I'm looking for suggestions, or ideas on what everyone else is doing for PCB milling, or other PCB fab ideas. I like my results, but I'd like a little more speed, better precision, double-sided board techniques, etc. Here's an album of my setup: http://imgur.com/gallery/aH0tH/new I'm using EagleCAD to design the PCB, and PCBGCODE to generate the gcode, then Mach3 to cut the board. I'm using a DIY aluminum PCB fixture that holds the board flat and secure. It's a little limited on different board sizes, but I'm working on another design with movable hold-downs. My first issue is that I'm limited to 2500 RPMs, and using a "2 flute" spade bit type cutter, I can cut at 6IPM with a decent cut (after some light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper) at a depth of ~0.003in. For aluminum I use bigger cutters, so speed isn't really an issue, but for PCBs, I'd like to be up around 10K-20K RPMs. There's a kit to increase the speed of the spindle to 5K RPMs for $89 9http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4151&category=1311958022), which would give me the same low runout I have now (It's so small I can't measure it with my tools/skills), but only doubles my spindle speed. I'm also looking at other add-on "engraving" spindles which seem to have a low runout for ~$150 (http://www.amazon.com/LD52GF-400W-Engraving-Milling-Controller-Spindle/dp/B00IFUM1Z4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1423161645&sr=8-7&keywords=engraving+spindle) that go up to 12K RPMs, but that involves an extra power supply, extra spindle control for Mach3, and extra weight and mounting on the mill head. I've considered the Dremel route, but I'm not sure about the runout. Suggestions? Anyone else used different cutters? I've looked at some pretty small end mills (0.025mil - 0.4mil), which would likely give me a much better cut, but I'm worried about the durability of those. They're also much more expensive. My second issue is that I often need to do double-sided boards, or be stuck with "air-wires" or goofy TINY traces, which makes soldering a PITA. There's an example of my air-wire trick in the album. I tried a double-sided board by drilling 2 1/8" holes in my board and fixture, and using a drill bit to register the board when I flip it. That works OK, but any little wiggle makes the traces/holes off, and it's a pain zero the X/Y axis when I mill the board. I've thought of putting the drill bit in the mill collet, which will make zeroing X/Y easier, but I need to use 2 holes to register on to flip. Suggestions? If I do finally get double-sided PCBs working well, I'll likely be using "vias" at some point. How do I solder both sides of the board together through vias? For pads with a pin going through them, it's a non-issue. I may have answered my own question ... scrap wire through the hole? The third issue is software. I like my current method. Even though EagleCAD is counter-intuitive at times, it's what I know. PCBGCODE certainly does the job, but I'd like some other options that might be a little easier to use or have a little more community/paid support. I'm almost to the point where I might want a PCB shop to make a few boards for me, but I have zero knowledge about Gerber files or what else they would need. Forth thing I need advice on is soldering. I can mill pads for 0603 SMD parts reliably, but I'm using a cheap Velman soldering iron and wire solder, both the smallest Fry's has to offer. I'm considering a hot air tool, but that's quite an investment and awfully slow. I also have considered solder paste, but making stencils seems like a real PITA for small batches of boards (I never make more than 10 boards). BTW, where is everyone getting their copper boards? I'm paying through the nose at Digikey. I love their parts, quick shipping, good price on most things, but certain things are just overpriced.