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Why the little packets of silica that come with a lot of products, especially electronics items are worth keeping and reusing for purposes like this. I keep them in my camera bag or in anything else I store my camera gear in. One can buy them online too.
I don’t know what that is sorry. I can personally recommend this. As for your mushrooms idk man it’s hard to say without any pictures
Lube that bitch up, and throw in some of those delicious forbidden snack packets and you’ll be GTG
Are you intending on using it for a dessicant drying chamber or long term storage? For a drying chamber I recommend DampRid, but make sure the fruits are separated from the dessicant by a paper towel or something. For long term storage use something food safe like this.
What you have pictured might work for a drying chamber but I don't have experience using it.
I would seal it in a bag or container with a bunch of these.
I think once they are dehydrated you want to keep them as dry as possible, those ones are to maintain a humidity level. Find some silica dessicant and use them. This is what I bought based on someone in one of these subs recommendations. Just tape to the inside of the lid when you put the dried fruits in the jar.
Check this out at Amazon
5 Gram Pack of 50 "Dry & Dry" Premium Pure & Safe Silica Gel Packets Desiccant Dehumidifiers - Food Safe Rechargeable Paper [link]
I use them. As far as know they are harmless so why not. I put one or two in all my boxes of gun stuff. I got a bulk pack from amazon and they seem to work. Heres the link for em:
5 Gram Pack of 50 "Dry & Dry" Premium Pure & Safe Silica Gel Packets Desiccant Dehumidifiers - Food Safe Rechargeable Paper [link]
Go check out Amazon for the desiccant packs.. they are like the little packs that are in food products (beef jerky bags etc) and many other things.. Might be silica packs in your area..After you cracker DRY your fruit body, throw in the packet(s) depending on what size you want/get…Some can be reused by drying them back out, but really a pack of these will last you a LONG TIME.
Get the food grade ones though please. Here’s what they look like (Amazon link) -
Hope that helps and good luck with your adventures 😊🙏🤙
I keep a stash of progesterone down in the bottom corner of one of my closet which is the coolest place in my apartment. In the bottle I put gel silica packs to absorb moisture. I noticed them just the tiniest bit soft, but never stuck together. 🎠G
I bought these little silica packs that I plan to tape to the inside of the lid on the Mason jars I store them in. I think it was recommended on this sub in the sticky posts for how to grow using UB. They're cheap enough I'll just use them once and toss, though the packaging says something about being able yo reactivate them.
What did you use for the thick one on the bottom?
Invest in some desiccant to put in that suitcase with the journals to prevent mildew/mold.
I do for sure. It's super wet and humid on the west side. I've had steel case rust after a few years. It's worth it if you plan to store it for very long.
I use this.
Rolled mine into a lake a few months ago. Desiccant is your friend. You can get it on Amazon for cheap (I used this: [link]). Disassemble as much as you feel comfortable with, then put it in a garbage bag with a ton of desiccant for a few days.
Don't power it back on until you are sure it's dry.
This could be from moisture thats absorbed by the filament. As the filament comes out from the hotend the moisture boils and causes microscopic steam explosions which can cause rough, sort of "foamy" looking skin. In the more severe cases you will hear very feint popping/crackling sound from the hotend. PLA doesn't absorb as much as PETG or TPU but its still prone to moisture when exposed to high humidity for extended time. You can try drying it by throwing it in the oven at 100F/40C for about 2 hours for 500g of filament. About 4 hrs if its closer to kilo. Make sure your oven has good temperature control cause if it goes over 60C you might melt the filament and ruin it. To keep my filaments fresh I keep my unused rolls each in a 1gal ziplock baggie with few desiccant packets so I don't have to bake them as often. I got these for $10 [link] about a year ago, i use 2 packets for PLA, 3 for PETG and 4 for TPU(but even with desiccant, since TPU is extra thirsty it goes straight to the oven for about an hour before printing which has been giving me very nice results), and i still have more than half the bag. As long as you keep the filament bags sealed you can reuse same packets for new rolls, and when you get a fresh roll, just recycle the desiccant packet that came with it into your ziplock.
If moisture is the problem get some silica gel packs. They are a dessicant (they absorb water). Toss a pack in each drawer and see how it goes.
That is just one link to them...there are plenty of others who sell the same stuff. I have no financial interest in any of them. This stuff is very common.
Of course, this all assumes moisture is the problem. This will help with that but if the problem is something else then these will be useless.
If the lens and camera are in full manual mode then focus the lens until you get just a dot for a star then stop down the aperture so the star is a pin point of light. Check and remember those settings. Put the mask on. It should work as long as the focus and aperture doesn't change but you should adjust the focus until you get 6 lines.
If none of that works then try, in daytime, to find a bright reflection from an object super far away, like many miles away. This is very serious it must be super duper far away. Then try your set up again.
If that doesn't work then just try focusing, at infinity, at that reflection without the mask. If it's in focus great. If not then your lens probably can't focus to infinity. Ideally you want a lens that can focus past infinity. Older fixed primes like Takumar SMC can be adjusted past infinity. But you will need an adapter and I'd only buy expensive because cheap is cheap.
Unless there is a huge chunk of dust on the sensor or a filter is misaligned and everything is fully manual then the problem is inside the lens. It could be trapped fog. Buy a bag of Silica packs.
Then put your lens into a box and throw a bunch in with it. In a day or two your lens will be completely dry.
It's just good to have those Silica packs in your camera bags and lens cases.
Just use a hair dryer. It will immediately straighten out. Putting weight on them reduces the curve but does not eliminate it.
Also throw a small desiccant packet into all your storage boxes. You can get a big bag of them for $10 dollars and you will find more uses for them than you might think. Shoe boxes if you're a sneaker head, file cabinets, misc storage bins, instrument cases, car glovebox and front seat compartment, etc.
If you have wool yarn I would also buy so desiccant to put in the boxes just in case moisture gets in so the yarn doesn’t felt. I bought these (5 Gram Pack of 50 "Dry & Dry" Premium Pure & Safe Silica Gel Packets Desiccant Dehumidifiers - Food Safe Rechargeable Paper [link]) on amazon and they worked well. You may need to bags depending on how big your stash is. I have bought vacuum seal bags that started to lose their seal over time so this would just be extra insurance that your yarn will stay safe.
I feel like they are but I'm not 100% certain. Looks like you can get them on Amazon: for example
Yes, like silica.
5 Gram Pack of 50 "Dry & Dry" Premium Pure & Safe Silica Gel Packets Desiccant Dehumidifiers - Rechargeable Paper(FDA Compliant) [link]
I put one of these in all my ammo cans just in case. Plus a dehumidifier in my gun safe. I've read that the foam from gun cases can hold moisture - not sure what kind of foam you have in that safe but I'd hate to see all that valuable stuff get funky.
I replied to the comment above you, but in case you didn't see it. "You can always throw a few desiccant packs in the case, they are super cheap in bulk. This combined with storing the case in a climate controlled area should go a long way towards moisture control."
Is there a strong musty smell? Looks like mold to me. Is there a bad smell in the sound hole?
I am not the best expert, you should take it to a shop. But here are things I would try:
Coarse shop rag with citrus based furniture polish. Not sure why but citrus cleans mold well.
New case. I would not try and get the mold out of that old case, just junk it and get a fresh one, keep silica packets in there as someone else suggested. Silica Gel Packets Desiccant Dehumidifiers [link]
If you can find a way to keep it in a small space very near a sizable pile of plain charcoal, that does an oddly amazing job of pulling smells out of stuff. Baking soda could work too.
Good luck, hope you save it!
You could always get one of those desiccant packs
Desiccant is suuuuper cheap. I buy the big bags from Dry&Dry via the magic of Amazon Prime: [link]. I literally have a giant sealed bin just of desiccant in various sizes and types. It comes in handy so often!
Amazon or wherever you buy stuff. They are pretty cheap.
Oh shit, you're right!
I never thought to look there. I've just always collected them for free haha.
Putting it in a plastic bag with this might help.
Don't use Rice. Do this: [link]...
Additionally if you want to absorb moisture. Use those Silica Gel packets that come in most of your amazon purchases. Or if you don't care about money, you can buy them from amazon.
EDIT2: I wonder if buying Silica packets come with an additional Silica packet in the box, not part of the order.
/u/double_cleff get these
The wheel wires will tend to rust
Cheap and effective
Probably as long as you need to! I have never held on to them longer than a half a year, and they were no doubt just as potent as when they were out in the jar. From what I’ve heard if they are stored properly they can stay active for years with a negligible drop in potency. It’s a very slow decline (ie. Breaking down the active compounds) from what I understand. Once they are dried the main enemies are moisture, oxygen, and light. I store mine in quart mason jars with one or two silica packets each. You can get like 50 pack bags on Amazon for like under 15$
I have heard some people use the gel which you spoke of to dry them with varying results. I’m sure the potency from drying that way vs dehydrator is negligible.
Here’s a dehydrator for 40$
Nesco FD-37 Food Dehydrator [link]
For like 60$ all your drying needs done never have to fuck with turning and checking them and wondering about mold, it’s the way to go for me.
Anyway hope that helps! Happy harvesting!
I bought a big thing of them (like 50) on Amazon for I think ~$10 , last year.
This is what I got: [link]
If you buy Taulman's Nylon 230, then you can print Nylon at 230°C on a stock printer. It's only $25 per Kg on Amazon. It's also great for making gears, bushing, orings, and gaskets because its self lubricating. I got it and it prints beautifully. It has a hard time sticking to the bed, so I use liquid white elemers glue. I like to mix about 15% water and 85% glue together to make it easier to spread. Heat the bed up, apply glue in a zig zag pattern, then spread evenly on the bed with your finger in circular motions. When it starts to dry and get tacky, which it does pretty quick, I press my finger print up and down everywhere in order to make lots of little ridges to increase the surface area for the nylon to stick to.
One last major thing. Nylon is EXTREMELY hygroscopic. Meaning it will suck water right out of the air. I left the roll out on a semi humid day for about 18 hours. I didn't put it away because I was going to use it in 18 hours. The next time I printed it was snap crackling and popping because the moisture it absorbed was turning into steam when it hit the 230°C nozzle. I put it in a gallon sized zip lock freezer bag (you must use a freezer bag because the normal kind is not air tight) with a bunch of silica gel packs for a few days and that resolved the problem. You can buy a 50 pack of 5g bags on Amazon for $11. I use 5 of them in the freezer bag.
This is the one I got. There are ones out there that are $45 per kg, and one that's $24, but it's only 1 pound. This one printed great for me and the diameter was spot on.
I got 5 gram silica packets on Amazon here you can put them in your dehydrator and use them again, they work perfectly for me in my jars.
Check this out at Amazon.com
5 Gram Pack of 50 "Dry & Dry"... [link]
Till you shoot it. BUT you can increase the odds that it'll last forever by storing it in an airtight container with a silica gel pack thrown in for good measure.
Could be several things.
get these, or something like them, but make sure container is airtight
Here we go, this is what I ordered: [link]
Should probably be okay for a couple weeks. But if you're worried get some of these, or something similar, to throw in the boxes.
>!IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!<Lets Talk Filament>!IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!<
The printer does not come with any filament. Well mine came with about six feet of filament which is practically nothing. Go on Amazon and look for some filaments they cost about $25 for 1 kg. You want filaments that are 1.75 mm in diameter. You should buy PLA. You could also get PLA+ / PLA (pro). All that means is that it is PLA with additives that improve certain qualities about it. Usually it makes it a tiny bit less strong (60MPa instad of 65Mpa, which is pretty insignificant). But can instead make it more shock resistant by around five times as much. This also makes it more flexable and less stiff. PLA+/pro will tend to bend quite a bit before it ever snaps. PLA is known for being very very strong and very stiff but also very brittle, meaning if you drop it it will often crack or shatter. The plus side is that super glue works on PLA and bonds almost instantly. I find that gorilla super glue in gel or liquid gives you the most super glue per dollar.
I've started liking the PLA+ better than the normal PLA. It prints at a slightly higer temperature but overall it prints really well and gives a great surface finish. I like eSun's PLA+/pro best. Theirs also comes in a lot of different colors. It shouldn't cost any more than normal PLA.
Some good brands for PLA are. eSun, AMZ3D, AmazonBasics, Hatchbox, Protopasta, Gizmodorks, ERYONE, CCTREE, and TTYT3D.
I really liked black PLA from AMZ3D. It's often sold out.
Marble White by ERYONE looks awesome. Out of every single filament i've bought this one has given me the best surface finish. With it i have printed items with a 0,1mm or 0.12mm layer height and they have come out where you literally can not see any layer lines, even looking up close. you would need a miscroscope to see them. you can feel them however if you really try. I normally print at 0.2mm layer heights and it looks amazing at that height as well.
I bought silk silver by YOUSU and DID NOT like it. It did not look silver and was more brittle than normal. It just looked light grey. It also was under extruding causing horizontal lines in my prints. i would say stay away from YOUSU
Always read the reviews and look at the user photos.
If you want silver or gold color I bought some from TTYT3D because the user pictures looked amazing.
UPDATE: I got the silver and gold filaments from TTYT3D. They do look amazing, but ive found that the filament diameter is smaller than 1.75 on average. This causes underextruding and can make the surface look... not great...
how you fix this is take 20 measurments along the filament spaced 50 centermets apart. Use calipers. Add up all of the measurement and divide by 20 to get the average filament diameter. From there you can take that number and put it into cura under filament diameter. It's located at the very very bottom of the settings window. You need to have all settings visable. It's under "printer settings" subsection of settings. To enable all settings you click on the 3 dashed lines to the right of the search bar and select all.
Alternatively you can put this number into your printer if your printer allows this. Or what i did is i took 1.75 and divided it by the average diameter. Then you multiply that number by 100. I then put this number into the setting "outer wall flow", "top/bottom flow", and "top skin flow". You could also put that value into "Flow", but i didnt because i didnt care how the inside looked. The number that i got in the end was 106%. Remeber to change the values back to 1.75mm or 100% when you go back to filaments that are normal diameter.
Otherwise the filament looks amazing. It's kind of brittle. I'd say more brittle than normal PLA. But i hear that is normal for "silk" filaments.
Your printer can also print other types of filaments right out of the box. they are ABS, PETG, Wood PLA, Taulmans Nylon 230, and some types of TPU (They vary in how stretchy they are).
>!IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!<Filament Pro's And Con's>!IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!<
Strong, shock resistant, UV resistant, water resistant, great for things that will be outside. Lasts forever, will not degrade. Good heat resistance.
Smells bad when printing. Slightly toxic fumes. Warping. Warping can cause item to peel itself off bed. Basically Need a housing to print. Can have poor dimensional accuracy.
Very Very shock resistant. Water resistant and waterproof. Comes in clear and see through colors. Glossy smooth finish. Adhears to bed easily. Flexable when thin.
Stringy, Blobs, Can get stuck to the nozzle, High printing temperature can slowly damage brass nozzles and the PTFE bowden tube. Poor bridging.
Wood PLA Pro's
Smells like wood, Looks Like wood, you can stain it like wood, sands like wood.
Wood PLA Con's
Brittle. Easier to clog nozzles (can sometimes be aleviated by using a nozzle bigger than 0.4mm). Look out for brands that dont have real wood in it. some are 100% PLA that just have wood coloring. Look out for brands that end up looing like cardboard. look at the pictures in the reviews on Amazon.
Taulmans Nylon 230 Pro's
One of the only Nylons that can be printed at a low temperatue that stock printers can print. Extremly shock resistant. Very strong. Self lubricating so its great for gears, bushings, and even orings or gaskets. It's cheap, at $25 per Kg on Amazon. Abrasion resistant. Lasts forever. Can live outside
Taulmans Nylon 230 Con's
Doesn't like to stick to the buildplate. i use white liquid elmers glue spread out thinly but evenly on the build plate. Warps. You'll need to figure out what size to make holes to get correct dimensions. (Ex. make a 3.4mm hole on the 3D model to get a 3.1mm hole in real life)
Biggest con is this is EXTREMLY hygrophobic. It will suck water straight out of the air. I left my roll out for about 18 hours on a semi humid day. Afterwords it was snap crackling and popping when i was printing it, because the water it absorbed was turning into steam when it came into contact with the 230°C nozzle. The fix to this is two things. First make sure to store your roll in a zip lock freezer bag. Zip it 90% of the way closed, then pinch open the open section and suck out the air, then zip the rest up. Second, buy some silica gel bead packs from amazon i got 50 5g packs for $11. [link] . i suggest putting 5 packs in with the roll. As a plus, they are "rechargable" by placing in the oven to drive out moisture.
Flexible, stretchable and fun! Comes in a variety of flexable levels from able to be stretched 600% to being as hard as skateboard/rollerblade wheels.
Difficult to print. Difficulty goes up with flexability. Might need a direct drive extruder. Some can be printed with a dual gear setup with a bowden tube. Poor bridging. Stringy. Blobs stick to nozzle.
Oh, if you have a friend with amazon prime you should totally ask to use their account to buy the filaments. It's saves a lot on shipping.
I would say only buy two colors to start off. It lasts longer than expected.
4^th Part Below
Can you order from Amazon
I considered that, but went with these: [link] and [link] to monitor. Essentially the same material, both re-usable.
In that case you could probably get away with using a rain shield of some capacity and keeping it in a bag with cover if the weather turns particularly nasty. If you're going to be in humid environments, I also recommend looking into getting some silica gel packets to keep with your equipment so you don't end up with fungus growing in your lenses.
You can buy little silica packets to throw in the jar ����
I recommend these.
Do NOT put it in rice without the cap, you'll get rice dust all over the sensor and every where! Get some moisture absorbing silica gel packets from Amazon or from iFixit and use that instead. It's not guaranteed to work but it's better than rice and better than nothing.
If that fails, you'll probably have to send it to Fuji service :/
As someone who's currently battling 72% ambient humidity in the house, a silica gel dessicant packet in OP's dry-box would probably help loads.
I keep mine in a Tupperware container with a handful of these in there. No issues so far.
Non-mobile: anyone can.
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
As I recall, some of us said you could mount it there, but that you'd want to get a waterproof battery so you don't end up with this on your hands.
You should never mount that style of battery upside down. The cases are not waterproof and water is highly reactive with lithium. Moisture will collect in the case and you'll basically have a terrarium going in there. Should have gone with that Luna Wolf battery. Your rear tire is going to sling water all over it when you encounter any moisture at all.
You'll want to put many packets of desiccant in there to soak up as much water as possible. Pooling water isn't great, but high humidity is extremely bad. Lithium battery fires are no joke. Don't burn your mom's house down. She'll be very disappointed.