What is Reddit's opinion of (5 Pack) JacobsParts USB-C PD 12V DC Fixed Voltage Power Trigger Module 5A Type-C Female Input?

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Here's a starting point chip. Note though "If the power supply does not support the requested voltage then the next lowest voltage will be provided • The module just performs the PD negotiation and passes the output", so you'll also have to add a boost converter to get 12V from it under all circumstances. This stuff gets complicated very quickly.

If you put the AC/DC converter in the floor, then it will be much safer and less code problems than having AC come up above the floor.

The table is mostly stationary and with the glass top, I doubt you would bump it often. Having the power cut unexpectedly is ok, but maybe not the best. I think that makes induction overkill. Pogo pins also seem like they wouldn't last as long, so I like the idea of a breakaway connector.

USB-C can provide 12V, you could probably get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Voltage-Trigger-Module-Type-C/dp/B08NFKV2LD/

Tuck that up into the table. Solder on a barrel jack and wrap it in heat shrink to connect to the existing power cord. Then run a USBC cable to the ground and have a USBC port installed by one of the feet. Under the floor, have a good USB charger that is capable of delivering 12V. If someone pushes the table and the cable gets shredded, you're out a cable or maybe a port on the floor.

Pretty sure this will give you the same result...used this for a mains powered, but sadly usb generally tops out at 5v, so I couldn't get enough power. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFKV2LD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZTNKKNJG37C0MAPTPMQZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Voltage-Trigger-Module-Type-C/dp/B08NFKV2LD

Yep. You may also be able to pair a usb-c 12v board with a boost converter that has current limiting to charge the batteries fairly quickly. I'm working on a setup to do the same thing with a 4s pack...

https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Voltage-Trigger-Module-Type-C/dp/B08NFKV2LD/
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-5-5-30V-Adjustable-Regulator-Converter/dp/B07VNDGFT6/

Usually the buck/boost boards are current limited on both input and output stages, so, e.g. if it has a 3a limit, you supply it with 5v, and output 12v, you'll be limited to 3a*5v => 15w / 12v => 1.25amp output at 12v. But if you increase the input voltage, you'll be able to supply greater output current.

You can get your 12v negotiation with this part: https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Voltage-Trigger-Module-Type-C/dp/B08NFKV2LD

Then you can use the Light you already have and the switch you have.

> If you put the AC/DC converter in the floor, then it will be much safer and less code problems than having AC come up above the floor.

Yes, definitely and that's what we're planning (staying 12v for all the reasons you mention).

> The table is mostly stationary and with the glass top, I doubt you would bump it often. Having the power cut unexpectedly is ok, but maybe not the best. I think that makes induction overkill. Pogo pins also seem like they wouldn't last as long, so I like the idea of a breakaway connector.

Yep, that's where we are at the moment too. More to go wrong over time with mechanical interconnects that have moving parts like pogos.

> USB-C can provide 12V, you could probably get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Voltage-Trigger-Module-Type-C/dp/B08NFKV2LD/

Thanks for this link. That part will definitely simplify the interconnect up inside the table body.

> Tuck that up into the table. Solder on a barrel jack and wrap it in heat shrink to connect to the existing power cord. Then run a USBC cable to the ground and have a USBC port installed by one of the feet. Under the floor, have a good USB charger that is capable of delivering 12V. If someone pushes the table and the cable gets shredded, you're out a cable or maybe a port on the floor.

Some variation on this approach has the major advantage of being one of the most straightforward, easy and certain-to-work. If we had to have it all working and finalized by tomorrow, this would be a top option. It does have the smaller disadvantages of not offering easy micro-positioning flexibility after installation, still having a cable running down a leg and, subjectively, I feel it lacks a bit in technical elegance and implementation fun.

For context, I recently retired early from a career as a serial entrepreneur in high tech. A lot of my friends are engineers, technologists and hackers. The sort of folks who would certainly notice if the means of powering the table weren't just aesthetically unobtrusive but actually remained mysterious upon casual examination. Many would find it amusing and some might even find that little mystery even more interesting than the table itself (already being quite well-versed in servo control, RPis, etc).

A little late to the party, but if you have a USB-C charger with 12V output, you could get one of these USB-C Power Delivery triggers (Linky), then just solder on a fan power connector to it. Assuming you're decent at soldering (these triggers are tiny). Works great. I originally used these triggers to power some external hard drives with a dual port USB-C charger to cut down on how many sockets I was using, but remembered fans generally run off 12V too. Just double check polarity after you're done soldering. I can run the fan off my phone charger, or I can run it off my portable power bank that has 12V output over USB-C PD. Love usb-c lol

The trigger is covered in black heat shrink in this photo:

https://i.imgur.com/q7Q2IUal.jpg

Are you using one of these for the "brains" of your cable?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFKV2LD/