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Unfortunately RMAs can be a little tricky depending on the manufacturer. Some manufacturers might ask you to ship the board back first, after which they will send you a new one, whereas others may just send you a new board straight up. Depending on where you bought the parts (e.g. Amazon), you could just order a new board, wait for it to arrive, then return the old one as defective.
Alternatively, you could buy a cheapo USB sound card like this if your friend's happens to work. Your motherboard will still be broken, but at least you'll have sound - might not be worth the RMA if a $7 part is enough to bandaid it, but that's up to you.
I own both the M40x and the Sony MDR-V6.
For portable use, i wouldn't recommend either of them. I would go for a V-moda XS all day long. However, for just using them at your desk, the M40's are incredible. They aren't the easiest to drive out of a weak smartphone preamp (like my note 8), and i do think they benefit from even a cheap fiio amp, but off a computer they should be fine. Sound is amazing for the price. I reach for them over my $200 pair of headphones a lot of the time. Pick up one of these to use as a cheap sound card - [link]
As for the Sony - i honestly wouldn't buy them for music. Yes they are very detailed, but IMO are very harsh to listen to. They're cold, sterile, and unforgiving to the point where most music on them is unlistenable. Certain genres seem to work well on them IMO like singer-songwriter and acoustic stuff.
But to answer your question - just buy the M40x's and don't think twice about it. Perfect starter headphones.
>Syba USB 2.0 24-Bit 96KHz DAC
I could try this, but for the other, I already have a similar product that eliminates the static, just not the buzz :/
What I have here
OK, other than the drivers (which you have already tried) I can't think of anything else to try. So I would probably just get a USB adapter like this one and not even use the onboard audio.
hmmm that was not the issue I was having but what did fix my issue was an external audio DAC. I picked one up for 7 bucks at a local micro center. For 7 bucks might be worth a shot. Here is a link to the one I have
Also another troubleshooting step would be to hook your audio with an HDMI cable to a monitor with built in speakers or to a TV as that uses your GPUs audio drivers instead of your built in ones, prolly realtek? Whether or not you have an extra monitor like that or tv lying around I dunno.
The way I do it is I bought some cheap external USB sound cards.
I set Teamspeak to output to one card, and I set windows(which means games) to output to the second card.
Now you can control individual audio levels.
I guess you have a realtek motherboard? It fucks with everything, I guess you need an external Dac/amp to improve the quality, the modmic can be fixed with a simple USB soundcard like this [link]
Spend $6 and get a USB sound card like this one. It will provide better audio due to less cross talk on the un-shielded front panel audio cables. Here
Thanks for all the help!
I found a solution!!!! Since Realtek was the problem, I decided to bypass them completely and buy a USB soundcard. I bought this from amazon:
Plugged it in and it worked right away. It was a cheap 11$ solution.
Thanks again for all the help earlier!!
Next I would try the optical audio or HDMI audio.
Or maybe try one of those USB sound cards like this
Also, you say elcheapo.... Is this going to make my audio shit or something or is it just a good deal. I'm not opposed to paying a little more, but I'd prefer not to have shit quality sound. Will this sound just as good as what I have?
You also seem to know more than me... will this work dude?: [link]
My HP Laptop has a really annoying audible "noise" when using headphones- I sent it back for repair and it was returned stating there was basically nothing wrong with it and the noise is normal >:(
I found a possible, really cheap (sub 10$), solution- buying one of those really small portable external usb sound cards like this one:
I don't want to spend money on a DAC and I really just want the buzz/ noise gone; I'm not looking for superior audio quality. All I want is something that'll last for a good while and sounds the same as a normal audio jack.
Anyone have any recommendations/ experience with these small sound cards?
I use this: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) [link]
I use headphones with it but no reason you couldn't use an aux to aux lead to go into your monitor. Just set it as default playback option once plugged in
Thanks for the recommendation, dylan43270.
What do you think about me just using a UBS to 3.55mm adapter like this one for my headphones?
And still use the Lepai?
I found a solution to the problem. I just bought one of these and the problem was fixed right away by plugging my microphone into that. I'm putting this comment here so anyone with the same problem knows that there's a solution.
I'm not 100% sure I've understood this correctly, but I'm presuming that:
The Razer headset only has a single 3.5mm jack (rather than a separate jack for mic and headset speakers) and the speaker part has broken, but the mic still works. you want to use the mic from the headset, but have sound come through some earbuds.
I'm also going to presume (for some reason) you only have 1 3.5mm input on your laptop/pc/whatever.
If that's the case, the easiest solution is probably to get something like this
if you have 2 3.5mm inputs on your laptop/pc/whatever then putting the razer into the microphone socket, and earbuds into the speaker socket should work fine (you might need to change some settings in the OS, depending on what OS you have)
Yes, that is a definite possibility. Though, I don't know why both front and rear jacks would have the same issue. If you want something cheap that you can use to get audio working, you can try this. [link]
Ok, so an update.
-Latest drivers have made no difference
-Deleting the drivers under Device Manager and reinstalling did not work
-Speakers worked for a little bit, while the headsets did not, but now speakers are full of static like the headset again
-Device Manager lists Realtek High Definition Audio AND AMD High Definition Audio Device
I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do. I would like to fix this so we can spend time together over the holidays, but I ordered a USB sound device as well, just in case we can't fix this. Any more ideas?
Edit: [link] is the device I purchased. One additional note as well:
-Using the "test" feature for speakers works fine-there is no static in that regard.
So it's there regardless of what mic you use or if no mic is used?
Sounds like it's interference to me. Possibly from the fan (I've had this issue with a laptop before) or something else that has close proximity to that input.
Doesn't matter if there is anything plugged in or not, it's not interfering with the microphone, it's interfering with the input.
A USB sound card adapter like this might help with the issue - but they're not terribly good quality. Might be a good starting point to troubleshoot at any rate - only $6.00
If its a combo port you might be able to use a usb sound card to circumvent that like this - [link]
This one. I'm thinking it's specific to this headset because it has the same problem on another computer when plugged into the onboard audio ports.
One issue i can see is there's no mic socket on the DSS2 so you either have to use a talkback cable or one of these USB audio adapter in the USB in socket on the DSS2 to give you the mic input.
It's only £5 so once i get the box later i'll order an adapter this evening.
Do you think this would work? [link]. Plug that into a usb port and plug one headset into there and have another headset plugged into my desktop. Would the 2 headsets still cancel each other out do you think?
It's basically just a USB stick that you plug in that comes with it's own headphone jack. [link]
Like that. :) Had a problem on one of my laptops with there being faulty wiring in my audio jack.
If it's just to get rid of the static, you don't need to get one of those super expensive sound cards. One of these would work fine.
Absolutely. Same thing - i got onboard working, and it would break, then I'd spend time to get it to work again, then it would break, then...
I spent like 9$ on amazon, plugged it into a usb2 slot and i haven't had to fuck with it since.
While I appreciate the want to have a "flawless" system that requires no extra dongles - my time is worth way more than 9 goddamn dollars, and having a working hack that doesnt drop audio every other boot is worth way more than that.
I rarely say "just give up", but this is a case where theres an easy solution that you won't ever have to worry about again and makes every update that much easier.
EDIT: i was wrong - it's SIX dollars on amazon delivered to your door
> e Manager in Windows, find your audio device, right click on it and open Properties, go to the Advanced tab, and paste the Hardware ID h
I did find it out it uses ALC898 version but it did not work. If I buy something like will work for audio?: [link]
Are there any good USB Headphones, or alternatively how does something like this work:
None of the 3.5mm jacks on my PC seem to recognise the superlux hd668b I just bought, so I am at a loss what to do.
It's either return the headphones and stick with the grubby USB Gamer Headset I have, or get a cheap adapter and hope it works out well.
Any USB audio dongle should work, but this is the one I have.
I had run one of the audio patching scripts, but it gave me only partial audio function. There were none of the system sounds in OS X, but I could get audio out if playing a video stream in a browser window. After doing a fresh install of El Cap I decided to grab the dongle just to see what would happen--works perfectly. It's a solution for a desktop with plenty of ports and where it doesn't matter if the dongle is sticking out the back. Would be a little clunky on a laptop.
The only alternative to Clover for booting El Capitan is a version of Chameleon called "Enoch" (if memory serves). You'll find more discussion and troubleshooting threads for Clover, however.
The MultiBeast audio patch frequently fails to work. Many users go with one of the script-based audio solutions (by authors "Toleda" or "Piker-Alpha" at tonymac). You need to know which audio codec is present on your board, as well as the array of audio ports (commonly three or five) used. The scripts are interactive in that you make certain choices as it's run.
Toleda's guides are typically difficult to understand because he won't write in a plain-language style. What you have to do is carefully read through the whole thing, then do it again if needed to figure out which parts of the guide are an outline, and which parts are actual instructions.
When all else fails, get something like this and save yourself the misery of trying to get audio working via software patches.
this is... genius
spent the last few days with thinking about different solutions (like extendending the cable to 5m to match the vive cable and zip tie them together) and I have never thought of using the audio and the usb port o.O
thanks I guess I will use a10€ soundcard (maybe this one?) [link]
and the audio jack on the vive
I'd get a FiiO E10K, and just plug in the headphones/speakers into the 3.5mm output.
If you wanted to go super cheap you could get this [link]
Wondering if one of these would work: Amazon
I have an amp hooked up to my speakers. Just need to hook it up to the pi zero
Did you know, you can use any set of headphones as a microphone? Plug your headphones into the mic jack on one of these bad boys [because if you use the controller jack it'll only work as headphones], then plug it into your USB port and boom you're talking. It doesn't sound awesome quality, but it works.
Hmm, interesting. If I'm understanding, I'd pass the USB sound card through to the VM and set that as my default audio device in the VM. Then, I'd plug that and the audio jack on my headphones (it has split audio output/input plugs) into the splitter, with the input still plugged into my motherboard.
Looks like I could do this for about $20 total. Any recommendations on USB sound cards, and advice on how to do a pcie passthrough of a USB controller (for my qemu.sh script)? I don't need super high quality, but would try to avoid tinny sounds, as you point out.
I'm currently eyeing this $5 beauty on Amazon.
Alternatively, you could use a cheap USB sound card like this: [link]
You're likely not too worried about the sound going to the bass shaker(s) being audiophile-quality, so these work fine. Shows up as a completely different sound device so no issues there, either.
> Asus P8H61-MX
It looks like that mobo has the VIA VT1708S which is going to be a super PITA to try and get working with anything other than Voodoo - so that's out of the question.
I usually steer folks away from Voodoo as it is a pretty hacky solution to audio. You might benefit from a USB audio card. There are some you can find on Amazon for like $6 USD - check this.
Sorry I don't have any better news for you :/
Yeah, I stumbled on someone's post about the same audio codec and trying the Voodoo kext, but it didn't work until doing something in iTunes. Unfortunately, it wasn't clear what the person did.
What you can do is look for an inexpensive USB audio adapter. Here in the U.S. I was able to find this one, but there are many others available. Just plug it into a USB port and it works.
I wouldn't bother with a specific interface for digital modes. A $6 USB soundcard is all you need.
This is what I use, and it works like a champ. Now, you have to have a device with a USB port, so that rules out phones, but most Windows tablets have a full USB port these days.
If there's a lot of interference, a quick/cheap option is to get one of these or a similar version. It'll clear up input.
Same here, this little guy costs $6 and was completely plug-and-play for me, I never had to care about audio drivers again.
You can buy even cheaper plugs, but the build quality on the cheapo ones aren't great, YMMV.
> I'd ditch the 740 for an i5-4690k.
Suspect you meant to say something else--different GPU?
And, depending on your audio needs, something as simple as a $6 USB audio dongle (what I use) works great and is immune to system updates. No messy kext/dsdt efforts either.
I found the right thing.
Thanks for leading me in the right direction though, I found this through one of the questions on a bluetooth item on amazon, they mentioned soundcard replacement so I looked it up and found this.
Is it USB or headphone jack wired?
edit: My idea is to try a USB adapter like this: [link]
Could just be that the headphone jack itself is having an issue.
You're probably not going to find a cheap decent speaker setup with optical, it's either going to be a nice expensive one, or a crap speaker with an included external optical converter.
I'd suggest either getting an optical converter like /u/casualweaponry suggested, or getting a USB sound card for a similar price and plugging that directly to the speakers, like so: [link]
Finally, you could also use a bluetooth speaker, won't get you quite the same sound quality but for cheap speakers that's not gonna make a huge difference and you can get some pretty good deals on BT speakers, plus you can use that for more than just the Alpha.
Could you recommend an external usb sound adapter? I just bought a cheap one off amazon for $6.
You can certainly monkey with audio drivers and ktexts for hours to fix this, but there's also a "Gordian Knot" solution.
Buy a $6 USB Audio adapter, and never worry about audio drivers again.
EDIT: Didn't notice your audio jack is busted, changing answer.
For what you're doing, a cheap USB soundcard off Amazon will probably be fine, the Dragonfly would be a bit overkill.
Something like this would tide you over until if/when you decide to go with higher quality music and sources:
My current plan is to get a pair of ATH-M40x headphones with a V-MODA BoomPro mic for gaming and skype communication, but I'm in need of a USB sound card. Will just about any do, or is there something I should look out for? I'm currently thinking a Sabrent USB Adapter would be the best option with reasonable shipping times.
if you read the entire thread, I tested the USB adapter with both my older Game Zero's (from i believe 2014) and it works fine, it's only the newer model with the removable cable that doesn't work. All other settings are identical. The microphone literally has to be in your mouth + shouting to hear anything.
I have updated the drivers, still the same situation. It has to do with the new model of the headset, I heard back from Sennheiser and apparently the new model is 50Ohmz impedance instead of the previous 150 Ohmz that I have in my headset. They swear it doesn't affect the microphone, and only the Cans but it seems like there's not enough juice being pulled through when going through usb for the signal to possibly make the conversion.
the adapter is this; [link]
Again to be clear. older model GAME ZERO's work with this adapter.
New model does NOT.
One of the best things about the monitor outside of its speakers and refresh rate is that there is 2 HDMI ports as well. If you ever need help with hooking up an external capture card to the Alpha or something let me know. And if you want to use a PC headset that has the mic and audio jacks separate you can use This although fiber optic utilizing headsets (Astros are great my opinion), sound the best.
Sure! The G5 is just in the same price range as the FiiO, and is also a DAC/AMP like the FiiO, but there are definitely some other options. Also, Something like this might work, although it's not a DAC, so it will still use your onboard sound system, but for that price it might be worth a shot.
If a spare USB port is available, an adaptor like this should get around the dodgy audio port when necessary. I used one when the audio port on my Asus Windows laptop became sporadically unreliable.
Those are some really shitty items. I thought there'd be a gem in there, but it's all junk.
The Raspberry Pi Zero is $5 (if you can find stock) and works as a great emulation system.
A USB sound device like this Sabrent one for $6 works great so solve a variety of audio issues like low mic volume or static/broken audio ports.
So many people in online games don't have mics. You can get one on eBay for $1. Please buy one if you play online games. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=clip+on+microphone
Could be a dodgy or insufficient mic input on your motherboard. Buy a cheap little external soundcard like this one and see if it fixes it.
The video is private.
This could either be coil whine while gaming (which is normal) it could also be a sound card issue.
What sort of sound card do you have? Something like this, which bypasses the sound card could possibly fix it as well. (Note this is just some cheap brand on amazon)
I had problems with really low mic volume with a Realtek chip as well. My solution was just to buy one of these [link] and use it for the mic input, works like a charm. Not the greatest if you're trying to record high-quality sound, but really solid quality for just talking on teamspeak or whatever.
I had this same problem with my rig, (HyperX cloud Headset and an NZXT S340 case if that matters). I bought a cheap little USB adaptor so I could plug my headset into the USB ports on the front of the case and that solved it. If you don't feel like plugging it in behind just grab one of these:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) [link]
That's a UK link but I'm sure you can find an equivalent
Ah, sorry! This is the one I got - Looks like it was a bit more expensive than I thought.
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) [link]
update: Ordered an external USB soundcard from Amazon ([link]), but to no avail. In games, videos, and music, the sound will still randomly drop out and won't come back unless I restart the game. The game will not even show up in the volume mixer once this has happened I should add. Other programs such as Skype however, will.
This is terribly frustrating.
I appreciate the input. This is what I'm probably going to do, but with this one:
Accomplishes the same thing, right?
It probably damaged the motherboard (or maybe a daughterboard). Simply gluing is unlikely to work.
Ideal solution would be to open it up and replace the board. But that may be difficult or expensive.
To get the sound back your best bet is to use a USB soundcard (assuming you have functioning USB ports still) LINK There are better ones than that, but that should get you up and running.
I use the modmic 4.0 and had the same issue you do, simply changing the audio from analog to digital solved all my issues and it sounds great now.
I got this adapter.
hello i recently purchased a pair of Sennheiser HD 598's although im very happy with them i have a question about the " 7. 1 surround sound" if i use them with a usb sound [link] is it better to use them through the usb sound card or the audio jack on the front of my pc? also is there any software im missing out on for better surround sound? once again sorry for the noob question.
If you just want audio you could get something like this. There are better USB sound cards, or you could get a PCI-E sound card ~~if you're more of an audiophile.~~ or an external DAC setup like /u/EnglishTimelord suggests.
To my knowledge, the front panel audio connectors will ALWAYS serve as the primary output device, and there is no way to change that (or at least if there is, it must be changed in your motherboard's BIOS settings.) This behavior matches the issues you're running into.
One thing you might be able to do is pick up a USB sound card, and plug one of the audio devices into that. That should serve as a separate playback device, allowing you to use either the Playback Devices menu within Windows or a utility like NirCmd to switch between the two devices.
I presume you are using a Chromebook running linux. I say this because I am currently doing so (and love it so far) and have the same sound card and issue.
Many forums say to add the ChromeOS sound profile, however that does not work on the LTS kernel.
If this is the case for you (even if it’s not a Chromebook your device has the same baytrial sound card as mine), there is one fix and two work around. The actual fix is to use GalliumOS as it uses an older modified kernel designed to properly detect the sound card. I can confirm this works flawlessly. However I am not a fan of gallium (which uses XFCE). It’s a really great distro and is specifically optimized for chromebooks, I just prefer elementary OS.
So if you want to use another distribution, presumably on a LTS kernel or newer, you have to use a hardware work around unfortunately. You can use Bluetooth headphones or speakers which work great. The other work around is to use one of these usb to audio jack adapters. They don’t need a sound card and are universal. I just got mine today.
The reason I’m confident these are the only options is because I’ve tried everything to get sound to work. I’ve followed every forum or even reference to a solution to no avail. There’s also some really good blog dedicated to using Linux on a Chromebook and fixing all the issues. They went into depth documentating the issues and fixes (creating their own scripts and such) but in the end they conceded. Audio just wasn’t doing to work unfortunately.
Yes it was fixed. My mac is an old version to the point where the "line in" isn't really the line in in most comps today. For example its supposed to support amplifiers instead ( don't remember exactly but that was what I remembered). I ordered this product [link] and it works just fine and detects perfectly well. Would recommend however I haven't used it for a while so I do not know anything about durability.
EDIT: Mac Specs: iMac (20-inch, Early 2008) Processor: 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo. 4 GB 800 MHz DDR2 SDRAM (ORIGINALLY WITH 2 GB OF RAM BUT WAS UPGRADED)
It's either a motherboard or audio daugtherboard replacement at places like best buy/geek squad. They're not going to do anything like soldering on new components and such.
You can try a reputable PC/electronics repair shop and see if they are able to source and replace the jack for you - if that is all that is damaged.
Frankly I'd just get something like this - [link] - but you can search around for other USB to audio jack devices.
Even if it could be repaired, it's probably a lot cheaper just to get a USB solution and live with it sticking out of your laptop. It's hard to beat a $6 repair off Amazon.
You can also go for a full blown USB external soundcard as well, if that suits your needs. It will have built-in DAC which is much better for certain types of headphones.
Something like this. Also, I would see if the audio works in another OS (live boot Ubuntu ect) and it's not just Windows 10 breaking everything.
I'm pretty sure iMacs do not have a 3.5mm input, just the output.
I think you could get a product like this and it will let you accomplish what you're trying to get.
Personally I like overdoing things and I was thinking doing something similar but just getting a full audio mixer to let me wrap my 3DS and PC into the same headphone jack. Honestly, after seeing the product I linked earlier, I kind of just want to get that, myself.
I definitely will! You do the same. The way I did this one was I just ran the tracks playing into a small mixer I have, then a really simple USB interface i got off of amazon that looks like this:
this track is really simple so it didn't take much, but if you ran like 6 different channels into some simple interface like that it might muddy it.
I record most of my tracks into either logic or I use the recording feature on my op-1.
I'd really like to get more into abelton, becuase I think it would really help with workflow, but I have such a mental block on learning it. I'm used to the garageband/logic interface setup.
At this point, below is what I would suggest:
I do this quite a bit. I use a Blue Icicle to convert my xlr mix to usb, then I use this guy to plug my phone in for skype (we actually use Discord which works better for us) and my headphones out. Using Asio4All you can input and record multiple USB sources simultaneously.
Yes the amp will connect and properly power the speakers.
For the USB card:
Sometimes if I am low on space, I will tear this apart and desolder all the ports and connect wires directly.
I have one of these for use on my laptop when I'm out and about, and it works fine. I'm sure it'd work for the Vive too.
Internal audio is the speakers, headphone jack, and microphone. They're all wired to the same audio chip inside the Chromebook. Maybe we should call it "on-board audio"?
USB and Bluetooth audio are digital and use an audio chip in the external device.
There are USB-headphone jack adapters which are very small and take digital audio in, and put analog audio out, e.g.: [link]
I have a question. I have a broken 3.5 jack on my PC so I'm forced to use USB. If I get the $26 deal along with this will it mess with the sound or would I be okay? The reviews are good but I don't know much about this stuff and I'm kind of new to PC or at least still learning.
I have the antlion 4.0 and to get rid of the staitc I bought [link]. Its cheap but it got rid of the static
No, that won't work. You'd need something like this if you mobo's input isn't powerful enough.
you pretty much need to buy a usb sound card to get a decent sound out of these shitty microphones
you need this:
usb adapter will give the microphone more voltage, and in turn will make it louder.
First of all don't get the Modmic, it's not that good, especially for the price. The Zalman ZM-Mic1 or Sony ECMCS3 clip-ons will be better and cheaper.
The UCA202 won't work well with your headphones. Get a FiiO K1 or A1. They don't have a mic plug, so either use the on board plug for the mic, or use something like this.
A few months after I built my PC my front headphone jack stopped working completely. I think they're really prone to breaking. I just bought one of these and plugged it into a usb port on the front for when I want to use my earbuds other than my headset.
I just got it from amazon. I didnt really search for it else where for cheaper because I wanted it fairly quick.
I bought this ([link]) with it. It was recommended from a few of the things I read about the modmic.
I have a setup that offers a variety of solutions but in different ways. I've searched for some topics here and get some different answers.
My setup is my PC MSI motherboard, has one main 2-channel single output.
Klipsch 2.1 ProMedia, speaker has a Headphones line out
Front panel Mic and Headphone input
also ordered on amazon [link]
USB External input for Mic and Headphones.
With these several options, I'm going to be pairing Fidelio X2's with a boompro mic. At the same time, I want my klipsch 2.1 speakers to work when my headset is unplugged. What is the best way to wire these? My first option was a Y-Splitter to the rear motherboard line out...Idk how that will sound or if will degrade any quality. I ordered this USB adapter primarily for my PS4 (I play wired controller for decreased input lag...and that disables the headphone jack on the damn controller). I have no problem switching or even buying that same adapter to use on PC as well. Any suggestions? Thanks for the help
It /might/ be possible to get BYT's audio working in Windows.
We are looking into contacting Maxim, who make the audio codec, and/or other companies who might be able to help us.
However, please do not make posts like this with misleading titles.
USB sound card is the current best solution to audio in Windows on BYT:
Alright so there are a few things you can do:
Reinstall NVIDIA drivers with EVERYTHING. Do NOT do a custom install. From what I can tell the issue is actually related to Realtek Audio drivers being the culprit. Doing a full install will install NVIDIA audio and disables RealTek. By doing this you may lose sound if using headphones, but all your monitors will work. I know this might be frustrating as hell, but if this occurs you'll need to buy one of these, which serves as its own sound card:
Or download the display driver from NVIDIA, then install through device manager. This might not work if it's related to the sound card issue.
I have no idea but if you get desperate you can buy a USB sound device fairly cheaply.
Something like this should work: [link]
(I haven't used that one myself though, so do some research first.)
U could try one of these Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) [link]
Works with the camera connection kit if u hav that already. Then u just plug ur 3.5 mm jacks in. I use it with my po sub
Prije par mjeseci kupio sam BM800 mikrofon, stalak(boom arm), i usb sound card. Kad sam sve to spojio skonto sam da mi treba i power supply za taj mikrofon. Mislio sam koristit stari stolni(15kn) mikrofon(inače shit) dok to ne sredim. Ali ovaj put sam ga ušteko u sound card i razlika je jako velika, nema šuma, sve se jasno čuje. Naravno dovoljno je dobro da možeš čak koristit i za youtube ali morao bi se malo igrat sa setings-ima.
Ljudi na Discordu me moraju smanjivat a sjedim pola metra od mikrofona
Preporučujem ovako nešto + bilo koji mikrofon iz kauflanda :)
You can buy a USB Sound card if you want to use in game chat. they are relatively cheap a 3$ here
Ah, ok I think you're having a ground loop issue. Analog mics using the 3.5mm jacks are susceptible to it. If anything I would say try a cheap usb to 3.5mm sound card like this [link] to see if it helps.
its lagswitching yeah.
also if you want to get rid of that static sound in your recordings get something like this:
fixed it perfectly for me.
//e: only for the mic ofc
Alright so after even further investigation, the static seems to only happen if I am outputting audio from the same PC I am inputting the audio to. If I remove the input from my stream PC for example and just put some headphones on and listen to my line in, there is no static and I can hear my gaming PC audio perfectly. As soon as I begin outputting to the mixer from the stream PC again, the static/buzzing starts again. Same happens when I do it with the Gaming PC. So I am wondering....would this possibly fix that?
Tried other headphones and none of them will register on the laptop and it just continues to play through speakers.
Will something like this work so I can use earbuds to listen to audio - [link]
It is likely your headphones. Check if connection is OK. If it is not USB, consider using [link]
Otherwise, check to see what people are discussing about your headphones. For instance, my Hyper X headphones were giving weird sounds. I turned off the mic (wasn't using it) and its great again.
was looking for that too. probably will upgrade to an fulla 2 with new headphones and an usb mic.
i have been using this for quite some time for my speakers and my mic: [link]
this probably has some downsides but i only made good experiences with it.
I have a pair of Micca PB42xs that are connected to directly into my computer. There's a very quiet hiss from he onboard dac that I assume is coming from inside the computer.
If I buy a very cheap USB dac, maybe something like this, will the problem be fixed?
If not, what should I buy?