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Here's what I bought. They're absolutely fantastic. I haven't leveled my bed since I put them on (which took about five minutes, plus time to level the bed), and I've probably printed two dozen projects since then. My bed is so reliable now that I start prints without even checking the bed level. At most, I'll watch to see how the skirt or first layer of the raft prints, and then walk away.
These things are so good, they really should just come with the printer, especially considering the negligible cost.
Ender 3 stock bed leveling sprints are trash.
8mm OD 20mm Long Light Load Compression Mould Die Spring Yellow Compression Mould Die Spring for The Ender 3s Bed 20pcs [link]
They will hold the level better. Also, make sure your first layer width in your slicer settings are above 100% to get a better first layer “stick”. You want it to squish a bit into the bed. I usually run 125% to 150% for first layer width.
I’ve had one for the last year and have been quite impressed by beginner friendly it feels. It’s easy to put together, has a lot of aftermarket customizations you can make, and that magnetic bed is to die for (no more hacking away with a scraper).
I recently printed a Colt Walker replica with it and found worked great at that scale. I’d say it’s certainly a good fit for the uses you’ve described.
Btw: if you do decide to go for it, I’d highly recommend some aftermarket springs to manage bed leveling. I went with these yellow light load springs and they have really cut down how often I need to level the bed (from every print to like once a month). Can’t recommend these enough!
Here’s what I ordered. Good deal, and should last for a while.
Ya I agree, leveling is a bitch. Even with the upgraded springs! I still haven't perfected manually leveled it at all... But I'll second the Jyers UI update suggestion- maybe that'll even help the BL Touch!
Just set up another for a newbie. The springs between the wheel you turn and the bed are, well, cheap. Smallest turns make non duplicated results. Play till you get it going. I suggest replacing em right off with
8mm OD 20mm Long Light Load Compression Mould Die Spring Yellow Compression Mould Die Spring for The Ender 3s Bed 20pcs [link]
they're 20 of em and cheap cost..much stiffer and hold an adjustment longer
Yeah, that's a problem with the stock springs. I recommend upgrading them, it's a super cheap and easy fix. I pasted a link below to the ones I bought. After a couple dozen prints, I've yet to have to relevel my bed.
I think that's your issue here, not enough "squish" with your nozzle. I usually level the bed to where the paper can pass underneath, but vibrates a good bit from the friction. You'll know it when you feel it.
Gold cast die springs for bed leveling are a great idea, tho the stock springs work if you dont mind having to relevel more often
There are long springs and short springs,8mm OD 20mm Long Light Load Compression Mould Die Spring Yellow Compression Mould Die Spring for The Ender 3s Bed 20pcs( usd )
Non smile link
I use these springs on both my bed and my extruder.
I havent printed in a few months due to life, but I think I was up to at least 500 hours of print time without a bed level, after the initial bed level, and honestly the time without level was probably more than that. Those springs hold it crazy firm.
Also slapped one in the metal extruder, puts more force on the filament and made my printing so much better.
I got this set from Amazon and it's way more than you need. I've sent a few sets to other friends who have gotten Ender 3s and still had leftovers for when I bought my second one.
Just make sure to pick yellow springs, as the color signifies the strength of the spring. Yellow is the weakest color, and I wouldn't recommend picking any of the stronger colors because yellow is already so strong. Also you want the 20mm long ones, so you don't lose as much height to adjusting the z-stop up.
I bought this specific one from amazon and they work well. But since these types of springs are already overkill, you can get away with buying the cheapest ones you can find on ebay or alibaba without worrying they won't be good enough.
$11 for 4 springs is pretty overpriced, there are much better options on Amazon, like this one.
I got mine from amazon. Uxcel OD 20mm springs are what I got. Ut, these are similar. 8mm OD 20mm Long Light Load Compression Mould Die Spring Yellow Compression Mould Die Spring for The Ender 3s Bed 20pcs [link]
I’m not OP, but I got these and I’ve had zero complaints so far.
For anyone wondering what the difference is, blue are slightly stiffer than yellow.
They are actually die release springs used in injection molding.
Here's 20 for $8 https://www.amazon.com/Light-Compression-Mould-Spring-Yellow/dp/B07FY47BX7
Here's 12 for $4.88 https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Spring-Compression-Springs-Creality/dp/B08GHNVNVF
Both of the above work out to about $0.40/spring, while the OP's deal works out to $0.34/spring, so is a good deal. :^)
There are several videos on youtube for first time ender 3 setup. Mostly they cover some detailed orientated techniques like...
1) make sure all assemblies are square.
2) The belts should be tight but make a low note when plucked
3) your bed should not be able to wiggle side to side (tighten rollers)
4) Your z axis rod shouldn't need to be bent into place (print a spacer after initial assembly and install)
5) Buy new springs off of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
6) Buy new tube for filament feeder (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Buy the upgraded bed springs, it'll help keep the bed level between prints.
Just an example, there are lots of good ones on Amazon:
I just ordered these…8mm OD 20mm Long Light Load Compression Mould Die Spring Yellow Compression Mould Die Spring for The Ender 3s Bed 20pcs [link]
I don't think its all metal. I'm just running the stock one though and it prints great, if I have issues or it wears out ill replace it ($20).
Bed springs and couplers I used:
Edit: This is what you need ASAP: [link]
These are what I use, they work great.
Ahoy! My apologies for the long wait. Here we go, The update / conclusion.
TLDR - Bad display / bad ribbon cable / improper stepper motor settings / quick disconnect on thermistor issues / Incorrect slicer start & end g-codes.
Well, as it turned out there were a few other issues plaguing me. I started from ground zero as stated. Had a successful upload of the Repiter Fw. 0.92.10M. (https://imgur.com/a/sKN8VBX) Or so I thought. The display would show the black bars. Yet if I restarted the machine a few times it would eventually show correctly. When connected to a computer everything would function as expected.
So, I inspected the ribbon cable and found cracks between some of the circuit traces. Contacted XYZ and got a ribbon cable headed my way. In the time awaiting part. I had to see if I can print from a computer. - INDEED! I had full functionality from a connected computer. Okay, lest see what we can print. Enter the progression of the CHEP cube. (https://imgur.com/a/55CGeM5) Well, I was having clogging issues/ feed issues. Extruder feeding issues. Filament grinding issues. Also the continuing DEF Thermistor error.
Well, I found a video on YouTube that said that the quick disconnect thermistor cable can cause these issues. (sorry I can't find it for a link) To rectify this I deleted the connector and soldered the thermistor directly to the main harness. (https://imgur.com/a/01JrkVl)
As for the filament grinding I went through and found how to calibrate the steps on the extruder. Yup! That did it. In the cleaning process I rotated the stepper motor so the cables were facing up. This gave the whole wiring loom more room. No longer pulling tight as the print head moves to max values. On the notion of more room. Because I had the back panel off. I decided to cut out the block so I could store the 2nd color on the printer. Now the workspace is a little cleaner and changing color filaments are a breeze.
Hooray the package came! Installed the new ribbon cable. Problem of black lines continued. Well, why not. Found a display on eBay from a davinci PRO. $10. XYZ wanted way more $$. I forget exact cost for a display from XYZ. Ordered up the ebay version. During the wait, the continuation of the CHEP cube.
As I waited, I went to work on slicer settings. I switched away from the built in slicer in repeater. Downloaded Ultimaker Cura. Began slicing and working exclusively in that program to help limit variables. Dialed in the slicer settings and layer heights ect, ect.
New display day! The black lines are gone! Every time I turn on the printer the display comes on, shows proper settings and responds to commands. Allright Slice up some new files, placed on SD card, Failed prints again and again. Now what is the issue... Well digging across the firmware on GitHub / links on youtube. I found out that there were some missing/ different G-code start & end codes. I replaced these with the ones from a link off of the GitHub files and wouldn't you know it... I was able to print from the SD card.
At this point the printer is now functioning and working "normal". Moving forward the issues are simple. Filament temperature / bed temp / bed coating. Currently favoring the glue stick. Experimenting with hairspray. After that might be time to join the #teambluetape.
In conclusion. The printer is working. :D Thanks to Mcgivervii for the correct links for the working F.W. The people that created the FW. The many youtube people who posted videos related to the different issues they had. I am up and running. Perhaps in the future if I am feeling adventurous I might switch away from this extruder & hot end. For the moment. I am Successful with a working printer. Now the bigger issue is finding a more permanent home for this large footprint printer.
Moving forward, It's more basic tips tricks. Does anyone have preferences on filament they use?
When it becomes time I might want this printer to print something exotic like ABS or Carbon/fiberglass filaments. For this I definitely will need to upgrade the hot end. Anyone have a favorite that they are using?
I will be upgrading the bed springs with some of these that arrive later today. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY47BX7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_K64GX3JWPJYQV1FND998?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those things said. Are there any parts that I should print in anticipation of them failing prematurely? I know about the X axis belt tensioners. However, just wondering if there are others to be aware of.
Here's an example from amazon:
Here's the ones I use
My ender 3 v2 benefitted greatly from upgraded springs ( [link] ) and the magnetic flexible bed ( [link] ).
Haven't had to use any glue or hair spray since.
I also switched to Prusa slicer but that is more preference.
And these springs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
or their microcenter equivalent.
Link to the springs I picked up https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7
Make sure your cleaning the bed. I use IPA to clean and hair spray for a little added tackiness. I also use the smooth side of the glass instead of the textured side. I got more reliable bed adhesion that way.
Replace the springs. The stock springs are kinda wimpy....
Three points make a plane, but four is over constraining. Check if the bed is flat, by laying something along it (like a good ruler) and looking for gaps. Get the upgraded springs https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And follow this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JSa_r8xgX8&list=FLJDT-JWi_K1w--_y0c0Bm1Q&index=18
I think the key to having a flat bed is not stressing the bed. The springs should be less compressed, meaning less force on the bed. I had the same struggles.
I have and Ender 3 v2. Didn't have the constant problems you seemed to have but replacing the springs definitely kept the bed level longer and required less adjustments. These are the ones I bought:
Honestly probably just any random seller on amazon is fine.
Although if you want the link to the ones I bought that are working well for me, [link]
I'm considering these for a purchase upgrade. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY47BX7/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A1MQXZU5R8XAOC&psc=1
I'm also trying to figure out how to attach and setup my BL Touch
I just got a set for my ender 3v2 last week from amazon and put them on during initial assembly.
Tried to break this down into different sections as you advance through the different stages of configuration, modding and printing. I'll do my best to avoid stating anything anyone else has already covered.
You can break down a lot of Mods/Upgrades into three categories.
Print Quality - Mods that improve your prints
Maintenance - Mods that improve the reliability or ease of maintenance for your machine
Quality of Ownership - Mods that make your life as the owner/operator of the 3d Printer easier/better
Cheers, happy printing, and lets see them Makes!
Simple fix: lower your z-endstop - the value in the assembly instructions is just a guideline.
Z-binding will most likely not be fixed by dis- and reassembly. It commonly results from the z-stepper being too close to the vertical beam. Some people used spacers that didn't work for me. I printed this adjustable z-motor mount that solved my problems. I have since also replaced the original rigid coupler with a flexible one.
Another thing I've done is to install stronger springs on the bed. (Something like these)