My guess is that you are distressing new assembly to make it look like an antique, right? I use a Shinto saw rasp to imitate the effects of rodents on furniture. A coarse or bastard cabinetmakers rasp will also do the job. (I also us a big ring with about 50 keys on it to imitate the effects of children.)
You are never going to match the grain with a fill. Easiest option is to chop off 1" (the overhang), break the sharp corner left from the cut with some sandpaper, then add some topcoat to the end grain. Being end grain it will look different no matter what topcoat you use so this will help make the color match easier.
Next best option is to use a jigsaw and round off both corners but if done properly might end up looking terrible. Some risk, but a little better payoff. You can also buy a rasp and create the round by hand which IMO is rather fun and you would have plenty of control. This Japanese Shinto rasp would be perfect. Find something with the correct radius you want (maybe the bottom of a can of peaches ?) to draw a radius, then work your way to it.
I have that same file, works great.
Also check out one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DIHDU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_5vI2Fb2EH6W68?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Friend of mine told me about it a while back, removes a ton of material if you're not careful.
a shinto rasp is a great tool for quickly removing wood and not a bad price.
A good spoke shave would be useful for this as well but getting quality, cheap spoke shaves is a bit trickier.
thanks! i think im gonna grab this shinto saw rasp based on some other users comments. They seem to like it a lot more than the surform.
This is the best bang/buck out there for shaping tools.
Start with a piece of wood. Saw it close to the shape you want, then go to town with that thing. When you're done, finish up with a lot of sandpaper in hand. Don't skip grits or you'll be chasing your tail.
I picked up this one off Amazon, and it's amazing. So much faster than the files I was using before...
If you're new to quality hand tools, be prepared for some sticker shock...
I wouldn't be opposed to using a cordless drill + forstner bit if it was a round hole, as it would leave a clean cut. But if I wanted more freehand work, I use rasps and files, followed by sandpaper.
This Shinto rasp can handle most jobs as long as it can fit. One side is rough to hog off material quickly, the other side has finer teeth for a smoother finish.
If you need to file into some curves or inside corners, then a file set like this would help: https://www.amazon.com/DS-Space-Carbon-Wooden-Handles-Plastic/dp/B074J5RJFW/
You can shave the head of your handle down to fit that. The lugs will make it a little trickier than a single bit without lugs but it can be done.
A 4-in-hand or farriers rasp (or a Shinto-brand rasp off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0) would make short work of removing material to fit the haft to the head. Add some sandpaper, boiled linseed oil and you’re in business.
There are any number of videos available showing different techniques for fitting a haft to a head.
“An Axe To Grind” is a great one to start with. Fitting a double bit (in my opinion) is a much simpler prospect than a rockaway/Kentucky/Jersey-pattern single bit but yours can certainly be done.
Anyway, the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=22tBYD-HMtA
A Shinto-brand rasp from Amazon will make short work of reshaping a handle. They’re worth every penny in my opinion ($~30-$40 USD).
https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0
These have a decent reputation. I have a basic Nicholson rasp but I may end up getting one of those I linked as well.
If you're working in a tight spot like that I recommend taking a look at a Japanese saw rasp for mid to final shaping. You will be able to work the wood without clamping for the most part.
This one is a favorite of mine: https://www.amazon.com/Shinto-HC-TL-SSR200-9-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0
Thank you!!!
Since the veneers I've worked with have been so consistent with regard to thickness, I've actually started using them as a guideline to understand where my radius is. If the width or position starts to wander or get too wide I know I need to ease the contour and smooth things into it.
My most aggressive rasp is the Shinto saw rasp. This thing is not fucking around with how much material you can remove in no time. After I've done the bulk of the material removal, I move on to the larger then the smaller Dragon Rasps from StewMac. I can't recommend either of these types of rasps highly enough; they're both really great.
No, you want something large that you can get use with force.
or
https://www.amazon.com/9-Shinto-Saw-Rasp/dp/B004DIHDU0 amazing rasp - the open structure means it doesn't clog and it can remove material pretty dang fast.
Thanks so much!
I do have a few questions, though. I was doing some reading on the sub before making my post, and I had seen some people recommending the Shinto Saw Rasp over the Stanley Surform Rasp (I assume that links to the correct one?). What's your opinion on the matter? I know nothing about rasps (Which I hope to correct) so I'm not sure what makes one rasp better than another.
Also, how does one determine what the draw weight of a bow that they've made is? Is there a way to alter it if it turns out it's too heavy? Again, I haven't read the books in full yet, but I just wanted to get that question out of the way while I was still thinking of it.
Are there any kinds of finishes that are more conducive to making a good seal on a bow that won't potentially affect it? (assuming that adding a stain or finish can affect the performance of a bow)
This little guy is pretty useful for hogging off material. Mine has a coarse side and medium side. This one looks like the same thing. Good price, too.