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yep that should do the trick as well. your data will be fine, assuming theres nothing wrong with the drive. usb feeds enough power for it to see the hard drive is there, it just doesnt supply enough to physically spin up the platters to read the data. i assume you are using something similar to this? [link]
For cheap backup drives, I just go on Amazon and order a decent SATA laptop hard drive and a USB adapter cable. I don't even bother with a case. My most recent backup drive for my iMac is actually a 512GB solid state drive and the USB cable (USB 3).
The hard drive in your system is hopefully ok and I believe on that model it comes out rather easy, 10 tiny screws removes the bottom plate, two screws removes the little plastic piece that holds the drive in place and disconnect SATA cable - bam, there’s the drive. With a $11 adapter you can then plug that drive in to another system to access your data or setup a new Mac and transfer your entire “digital life” right on to the new system
StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) [link]
You can if you have a sata port on the case or:
You can also try different SATA cables from the PSU and motherboard into the HDD. Also, try another SATA port on the motherboard if you can. There is still a chance that it could be some cables or ports, and not the HDD.
Plug in the external drive and open up disk management (open the start menu and type in disk management) and see if anything other than the hard drive in your laptop is showing up...For example, you may see that it lists three disks, one of which would be your C: drive, another would be your DVD drive, and the third would be the external drive. If you see the external drive, but it doesn't have a drive letter associated with it, then that means that somehow or another your partition was deleted...your data should still be there though. It may be easiest if you post a picture of what you see when you open up disk management if you are uncertain as to whether or not the drive is there. If your portable hard drive doesn't show up in disk management, see below. If your drive does show up in disk management, report back, and I or someone else may be able to help you retrieve your data.
I had a portable WD drive die on me before, but it turned out to be a bad connection between the usb port and the hard drive itself. If you are otherwise unable to get the drive working, carefully remove the plastic shell to get the drive out. Once you have the bare drive out, you can then plug it into your laptop using something like this or if you have a desktop, you can just plug it in to one of the internal connections. Assuming that your problem exists somewhere in between the usb connection and the drive itself, this will allow you to retrieve your data.
If all else fails, or if you would rather not mess with this, you may consider taking it to a shop (or a computer savvy friend) to have it diagnosed. Though it wouldn't be free, it is likely that they would be able to help you, and it would save you from buying a special adapter just to test your drive.
Assuming we're talking Windows 7 here.
The migration software included by Samsung will do the job nicely.
Buy something like this [link]
Plug the SSD into the adapter, connect it to a USB port, insert the Migration disk in the optical drive in your Sony and follow the directions.
Make sure you get your source and target drives correct, so you don't clone the blank SSD to your hard drive.
When it's done, and it could easily take more than an hour, remove the battery, pull the hard drive, replace it with the SSD and you should be good to go.
I use one of these with a cheap SSD for the exact same reason, work comp on the road.
For future reference, do not use URL shorteners anywhere on reddit. Most subreddits automatically remove them through the spam filter.
Second, don't use amazon links with referral codes. Just strip it down to the bare minimum, to prevent it from being caught as spam. Example: [link]
I have approved your comment this time.
I am not quite sure how you would fix this. Have you tried 'Refresh your PC' (not 'Reset your PC')? It'll save your data but uninstall all the apps. /u/chinpokomon 's suggestion might work. If you do a factory reset ('Reset your PC') it might just move your data to Windows.old, but I am not a 100% sure.
If you are afraid of losing your data in C:\ (assuming your HDD hasn't been corrupted), pop out your HDD, get something like this : amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1434514625&sr=1-1&keywords=hdd+to+usb&pebp=1434514630318&perid=1FN9J4CTYVGBHZSF0KDS
connect it to your HDD and copy over your data to another machine.
Easiest way is to remove the hard drive, and plug it in to another computer (desktop preferably) as a secondary drive.
removing the drive is easy, there's usually a little cover panel on the bottom that has a couple screws, you pop it off and then the hard drive usually slides out, or may have some retaining screws you have to remove.
you don't have to mount it in the case or anything, just set it on the desk or a box or something. connect a SATA cable to the drive and motherboard, and hook up the SATA power from the PSU.
then you can just click-drag, or copy/paste files from the laptop drive to an external drive or flashdrive or whatever.
if you only have a laptop, then you'll need a USB-to-SATA adapter like this, and that will work just the same.
Sorry. Forgot it was a laptop.
Yes you will need a cable. This one should do the trick:
StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable
Ok. If you want to clone the drive you'll have to move some data beforehand to get the size down to below 250gb.
Cloning saves you having to reinstall the o/s and update and reinstall your apps.
If it's a PC you can mount the ssd in a spare drive bay or just sit it in a spare drive bay. You can get by w/o mounting it.
If it's a laptop you will want to buy a sata to usb cable like this:
USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III
You'll want to pick an ssd that has migration/cloning s/w with it. I prefer the samsung evo series. Their migration tool works really well.
Sincerely doubt anyone here will do better than this if you have Prime: [link]
If you wanted to try and retrieve your stuff, you could use a linux live cd, or you could use something like this to connect your old drive to a working computer. I can't guarantee anything though. In the future, try and keep extra copies of your files somewhere besides your main hard drive.
Well if it's possible to pull your Hard Disk out, you could get something like this : [link]
and connect it to your HDD and plug it in to another computer to copy your data. Just make sure to get the right one. Also, this error can be caused by some sort of corruption, possibly registry corruption. If you can enter the safe mode (Hit F8, I think, at bootup time), there might be a way to restore from an earlier restore point.
Your laptop hard drive is likely failing from the sound of it, it's relatively common occurrence. Since the computer isn't too hot, something like this you could use to plug into another PC and run a hard drive diagnostic like HDTune or WD Data Lifeguard. (Both are free)
on the cheap a good dock alternative is this.
you can definitely find cheaper ones.
link i actually just ordered this after trying to do research i know it will connect to my hardrive but will it work to transfer files. if not i can still return or cancel order right now.
I do have a SATA to USB connector I use at work to grab files from old/bad drives. This guy. I have a USB port on my Qnap so I think it should recognize. If not I can connect them to a PC here and pull them into the new drive.
I thought you could set one disk to RAID1 but it wouldn't really start RAID until you popped the second drive in.
This is my only desktop PC but I do have a laptop so if I get one of these then I can test the drives?
Yeah sorry that isn't really possible. You need either some type of saving device such as a flash drive. The flash drive would have to be big enough to hold all your files...
you need something like this:
it's connected with one of these, no case just a drive and that cable.
moderator removed this post but it's connected with one of these. did not use the [Tech] tag so the auto bot could post the reboot your xbox support message.
anyways thanks, yes I'm pretty sure it 3.0
This cable is probably the best/most low profile option.[link]
Keep in mind that an SSD won't make a huge difference in situations like Crucible as you're still waiting on all the other players before the match starts, but it does make a substantial difference loading into any other activity, especially when you're solo.
What I noticed is that laptops that come with SSD are overcharging you for the SSD , therefore it is actually cheaper to install it yourself.
With this and some ssd's come with free software to clone your drive
I's suggest a clean install and then migrate data from time machine or old drive using migration assistant. I've done both, the cable I used was $12 from amazon:
look up the install videos at ifixit or OWC for your mac model, makes the whole process easy.
Actually, it is a lot of money your performance is going to happen is all of your help. Tried doing this and following the step by step on how to change the fan speed to 100%, but it doesn't seem related to the Fn Keys which you can use this ([link]) to have it at its "upper limit" of memory?
I mean there are so many choices.
You can just get a cable. [link]
You can get external HDD enclosures that you just plug into a USB port.
You can get NAS docks (Network Attached Storage) that let you just attach hard drives to your network so you can access them from multiple computers.
You can just build a machine to do it as well with hot swappable drives.
There are SO many choices. What's your end goal?
Would maybe a SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable compared to a hard drive docking station is any difference in performance or the same?
Adapter Cable: [link]
Yes, the Samsung SSD drives come with a very effective cloning software.
You just need to buy a cable to connect the new drive to USB to clone your old drive onto it.
I did that Exact upgrade a couple months ago.
Yeah I download a lot of movies/shows so I definitely wouldn't want to go all the way down to a 128/256 GB SSD, since that's about the most I could afford with a SSD. Rather save up to replace this laptop.
Are 5400 RPM drives preferred over 7200? I was always under the impression 7200 was better with its faster speeds (at least before SSDs came out)
As for the Seagate Hybrid. Am I understanding the tech correctly? Its basically an 8 GB SSD with a 1 TB traditional HD. And the OS would go on the SSD part while everything else goes on the traditional side?
Do you have any resources on replacing the HD? I was planning on buying this cable:
and then cloning my current drive and then its just swapping the two? but how exactly does it know to put the OS on the SSD portion?
Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it.
Get one of these and you can clone your current boot drive onto your new SSD. Then just swap them and you are good to go. As for games in different places, yes you can. You can add a second library to steam. I have on my SSD and one on my HDD. When you go to install a game it will ask you what location you want it installed to. Just pick the library for the one you want and you are good.
I've used this one on an 850 EVO and a few random 2.5" HDD's. Works great!! You'll need more power to run a 3.5" drive though...
As for a case... I'm not necessarily sure it needs one? unless you are trying to make it ruggedized and/or accessible by usb/micro-usb.
First off, ignore any included software that comes with a drive. Always always always. Invariably this is written for PC, is even then highly proprietary (read duff), and the tools that come with a Mac are more than good enough.
Maybe I missed it, but have you not tried installing the SSD directly in A? This would get past the problem of the enclosure not working. You should then be able to boot off the USB, and use Disk Utility to format the SSD for OS X. If Disk Utility doesn't see it (which I now see your third bullet covers) then it looks very much like a duff SSD.
Rather than banging your head off a wall, you first of all need to verify the SSD is good. Maybe get one of those SATA to USB interfaces that are a few bucks that let you run a notebook sized drive externally, yet naked, so no enclosure. They're pretty cheap and a spare one is always handy to have, and with SSDs there isn't really even any point in an enclosure as they're normally in one. But from what you've said, you've tried the enclosure and directly inside A, so I'd reckon it's just dead.
So you swapped the drive from the old laptop to the new one, and you're getting activation issues? Can you use the Win 10 key under your laptop to re-activate?
Do you still have all your files? It sounds like the repair shop backed up your docs, reinstalled Windows, then replaced your docs but never activated Windows, or used a pirated version of it.
I would recommend putting the new drive back in, make sure that's licensed and good. It should already have the drivers installed since it's the drive that came with the laptop. Then get a USB SATA cable (something like this) to read your old drive. It will act like a flash drive, you can just copy the stuff over yourself.
What model laptop is the one that crashed? What version of Windows? Do you have another WORKING computer? If so, buy a USB/SATA converter, something like this: [link] or if you want, I'll sell you a used one for $10, pick-up price. Use that to connect to another computer and move all your important stuff over. Sounds like 2 of these are easy fixes, and the keyboard one you just need a replacement keyboard from ebay, OR you can remove the keyboard, wash off the keyboard with water, let it sit for a couple days to dry out and reinstall, or just use a USB keyboard.
Yeah, just plug it in to the USB port though an adapter like it's a flash drive. If it needs power, and your adapter doesn't provide it, use the broken pc to provide power, and continue as normal. /U/Dreamanimus
In his scenario, I would get set up with the ssd like I said with only power going to the hdd, then VERY CAREFULLY just plug the sata cable to the hdd with everything still on. Alternatively, situations like this is where having something like this laying around is handy. Then from within Windows just delete everything on the hdd. There's certainly other (safer) ways to do it, but having run into issues in this situation before, this is just how I do it. It circumvents problems like what OP is currently having, and releases you from having to mess with boot orders in the bios and whatnot.
Though really, you only need to deal with that sort of thing if you're planning on using the hdd with the new ssd. If you're replacing the ssd, you just install Windows, easy peasy.
oh I see. I'll look into diskpart and also try this to plug into a mac and see if that might work. The Windows disk manager definitely sees the drive, but any time I try to delete a partition it just goes into "Not Responding" for an hour (that's how long I waited until I gave up).
Really appreciate the advice and good to know that not all is lost yet!
How are you buying it? Local person to person sale, store in person that sales used goods? online store? Online P2P ( like /r/hardwareswap or ebay)
If local p2p and you can psychically inspect the drive before buying it you could use something like this [link] to check if it working with any available computer. Running SMART or any other drive test tool.
If it a local store, if they are on the up and up they would probably provide proof of a working drive if you asked. Also warranties, guarantees and return polices are a good sign too.
Online store is harder but a legit store probably has warranties, guarantees or return polices. So at least if it doesn't work you can return it.
online P2P, you can ask for proof of the working drive. Also paying thru something that has good protection. I think /r/hardwareswap recommends Paypal Goods and Services ( but not paypal friends and family gift that has no protection) or google wallet.
Also with all but maybe local p2p paying with a card over cash will give you some recourse as well if all other options fail, thru doing a chargeback as a last resort. With local p2p often cash is king so that doesn't really work. Though some might take paypal or some other form of digital wallet which is nice too
I asked here before about checking if my SSD works or not, but I did some searching around and now I was wondering if I could use this: [link] to check my open box Samsung 850 Evo 500gb to see if it works or not? And also test it for any problems?
Edit: important to note that I do not have a PC to install this in, just my laptop that I don't want to use my SSD with. (I am building a PC soon)
TL;DR - but made it through the first 3 paragraphs.
From that, I can say for certain that the drive is dead - the fact your system slows to a crawl once it is connected is a good identifier of this.
Now, I have had some luck in the past with the following steps:
The details behind this method is that when you freeze the drive, the components constrict slightly, providing some buffer space for the heads to move along the drive without contact. If this does not work for you, then your only option is to send it in for professional recovery. My method here is fairly "safe" from doing further damage to the drive, since, you know, the details behind the method.
BE CAREFUL the paper towel and air tight sealed bag is a must or you will get moisture in the drive during freezing - and this will mess it up good.
ALTERNATIVE (and you must be really good, and very precise)
Find another drive of the EXACT make and model of the drive that has failed. Dismantle it and swap the platters (alignment of the platters must be exact, and be careful not to damage the heads) The dead drive's platters with the good drive's components will allow you to recover the data - in fact, you can leave it like this since it's basically a new drive. This is essentially how professional data recovery is done (although they pull the platters and mount them on a special machine to read the raw data and recompile it)
If you have another computer, you may be able to take the hard drive out (assuming you only have data on there, no OS files) and plug it via an adapter like this. You can then download and move the driver files onto the hard drive and plug it back into your PC.
Like these people are saying though, you may be better off reinstalling Windows.
You can take out the hard drive and plug it into another machine using one of these.
What happens if you hold "option" while booting?
You need a cable like this, just pull your hard drive out and connect it to your new computer it will act the same as a USB flash drive.
It's probably the hard drive starting to fail. My wife's 2011 MBP was doing the same thing and I did what you've done but it was just slow. Drop a SSD in there (really easy to do) and it will feel like a new machine. I'd recommend the 500Gb Samsung EVO 850 (I've put that in 3 different 2009-2011 MBPs). Full walkthroughs for opening the machine and replacing the drive can be found on iFixit or OWC websites for your model.
If you buy a cheap SATA to USB cable like this: [link]
..it will make migrating your existing data very easy.
You can take the hard drive out of the old MacBook, plug it into a USB to SATA caddy/Cable/enclosure like this one and plug it into the iMac. If the old drive is working you should be able to migrate everything to the new iMac during the initial setup. If you don't want to migrate everything you can just create a new account on the new iMac and drag and drop the files you need from the old hard drive, again assuming the old hard drive is working.
All good advice. But W530 has USB 3.0, does it not? If it does, you definitely want this cable instead:
StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD [link]
If you can, I'd recommend you buying a USB 3.0 to 2.5 HDD Adapter and using a free program called Hard Drive Sentinel, Which check the HDD for any errors. Shouldn't even delete anything off it, or even touch the content. Link: [link]
Edit: It's how I found out mine basically had a week left of usage. lol
Yeah you're totally good man, just wait and see if you can pick up a sata cable or buy one [link] and then reset it on a friends PC. You could also save yourself that headache and just format a USB drive to boot into and then boot from the USB drive!
Windows failing to start up, and the pre-boot diagnostics confirm that hard drive is failing.
Based on the service tag, it looks like the laptop is already out of warranty, so a new hard drive would be an out of pocket expense.
As for recovering data off the drive, you could pull the drive and use a SATA to USB adapter and hook it up to another PC and see if you can read data off of it.
If this doesn't work, your only other options are to restore from a backup, or send the drive to a data recovery service (very expensive).
Good luck to you.
In my desktop I'm using a standard 2.5" ssd. I will soon be moving and will be using a laptop that I have. Will I be able to continue to use this ssd in my laptop using a usb to sata cable such as this? Any potential issues?
Ok do you have a Sata to USB cable? So you can disconnect it from the motherboard, boot the system then plug in that hard drive via USB to possibly see what's going on or format that drive to see if it helps? Here's a link to what I'm referring to, [link]
the program says it will migrate your OS onto an ssd, but honestly it's not recommended. there are so many individual little driver installs for certain motherboard functions and chipset features that are already installed on your current pc and would carry over to the new build and make a bunch of problems.
it's best practice to do a fresh windows install for a new pc and adding an ssd.
i dont know what kind of system you currently have, but this is what i would do if i were you:
get the parts you have listed for your new build
take a screenshot(s) of you Programs and Features window to remember all the crap you installed
grab this 10 dollar adapter
when your parts come, use that adapter to copy everything you need off your old system onto your new 1T hdd (docs, pics, video, downloads, steam games, etc)
install a fresh windows 10 onto your new machine with just the ssd plugged in, after you have windows installed add the 1T hdd to your build and all your files will be there
install previously referenced crap on new pc
and then you're back to 100% without cloning errors
Yes as Auxillary said, you can save the data. If the hard drive for the laptop is a SATA drive, you can easily purchase, unless you already have one lying around a USB to SATA adapter and plug it into another PC and the laptop hard drive will show up like an external drive.
Example of USB to SATA:
Wow, nice job. I don't have the skills to do that so I'll probably buy one from aliexpress. I have a spare ssd and a usb3-sata3 cable ([link]); if it works, it'll be messy and if not, I'll have to find a powered usb hub. But I really like how everything is compact in your build. It took me awhile to realize that the WD PiDrive powered both the drive and the rpi. Really clean!
Google something like "vaio <model-number> drive removal" where model number is the model number somehwere on the laptop.
You probably just need a small screw driver to take the screws out. Once it's out you can slave it right up like a USB drive to the new computer. They sell those adapters pretty much anywhere computer stuffs are sold.
Im the type of guy that just gets a normal HDD and connect them with an USB to SATA Adapter
external HDDs are nothing else than that however have a nice looking case and the "Adapter" is inside the case.
You would need a SATA port to connect it to, even if you used a Linux LiveCD of some kind. If you have time to get something in the mail, you can snag a USB/SATA adapter like this then run some software like CrystalDiskInfo to get a basic check on the drive and make sure it's not dead.
You'll need something like this USB - SATA adapter. It will allow you to connect that drive to another computer as if it were a big external drive. This is a great thing to have in your bag of tricks, along with an extra mouse and keyboard.
Personally I would clone the hdds contents to the sshd , verify it boots and then format the old hdd. Then buy a cable like this [link] and use the hdd as a external backup.
No salvageable parts, except the hard drive. You should be able to mount that HDD inside a desktop.
If you don't want to mount it internally, you can use something like this USB - SATA adapter. It will allow you to connect that drive to another computer as if it were a big external drive. This is a great thing to have in your bag of tricks, along with an extra mouse and keyboard.
With a cable like this: [link]
you can attach the new 2.5in SSD to a USB port and format and install the OS on it. Then boot into the SSD and migrate your data. Now when you install the drive it will boot up with all your files intact.
Hmm. Well, I'll try the SSD first.
Let's assume that it's a problem with the SSD. So, I buy a new one, and my mobo recognizes it fine. In order to get the files off of my old SSD, would a USB to SATA adapter like this work okay?
You could get one of these, remove HD from computer then plug it into the adapter and connect to another computer to get any files off. Then do a fresh install.
Yep. It was a huge stink a few years ago, but it's mostly just a vanishing memory now.
Disconnect the SATA cable from your SSD, leaving the power cable in. Turn on the computer, boot into your BIOS/UEFI, and leave the computer running for about an hour (you might want to turn off your monitor to prevent burn in), then shut down and reconnect your SSD. If it was a power failure, the SSD should boot right up.
If you have a SATA to USB adapter cable, you can also test the drive on another system to see if it works (and do the above mentioned test).
Make a USB installer thumb drive like above suggested.
Alternatively, I like to use a usb to SATA cable like this: [link]
You can connect your old drive to usb and boot into it and then run disk utilities to format the new drive and install the OS on it. Then boot into the new one.
My SOP for installing a new drive is first attach it with that cable, format and install a clean OS on it. Then migrate all the data with migration assistant. Now open up the machine and swap drives. You boot up and are ready to go (after all your sign ins).
I'm talking about the Kingston thumb drives. My point being that you don't lose anything by utilizing an SSD connected to a USB enclosure or adapter for boot, over a single thumb drive, because no USB thumb drives support SMART either (that I have found). You definitely aren't able to take advantage of the SMART features of whatever SSD you use in that manner, because I've never found a USB-SSD adapter/enclosure that supports SMART, but you aren't really losing anything either.
SSD's seem to be more reliable in general, SMART or not, than flash drives... so it could be advantageous to use one with a USB adapter, even though you don't get SMART data from it, especially if it means not giving up a SATA port (if they are limited).
One of these is what I plan on using, hooked to the internal USB header on my supermicro board.
Very likely to be the cable. HDD and SSD use the same cables, yes, assuming its a SATA drive. You should check them on another machine to be sure. Replacing those cables won't be much of a problem though.
Or buy a SATA USB adapter to check them. I just bought this one recently:
Sorry but it seems to me that your laptop will need some serious work, you may have to send it to a repair shop to confirm. As for the baking in the oven trick, that's a really bad idea, it will very likely make things worse, especially if things go wrong. You may still be able to recover you data by using a second PC and a USB to SATA cable like this
If the hard drive is still functional, then yes, it'll basically act like an external hard drive. There are a few variables (partition type), but it is likely to work. Make sure to get a good adaptor. One like this should do just fine.
This is what you'd be looking for. It's a SATA adapter. You can find them for cheaper but this is the first example i ran across
Yea it would probably work, but you could also just buy a sata+power to USB adapter and plug it into your computer if you know where the notes are in your file system.
I use one of these all the time:
You want to copy the files from the old HD to the new HD.
No sense in keeping old drive if you're buying a new device.
Easiest way is get an external case for the drive (~$30), put it in there and copy whatever you need to the new laptop. The HD you have is most likely a SATA drive, so you want a SATA to USB. Here, this one is $12.
You should have a 2.5" HD and not a 3.5" HD since it was in a laptop.
Alternatively, there may be an extra bay that exists. A bay means the empty physical space for it. Then you have to make sure the drive works in the new Mac. I am not sure why the replacement drive you got didn't work on the old Mac, but I'm assuming there may be a problem connecting it to new one as well.
I don't do macs.
edit: Sorry about your father. Not to excuse his behavior, but sometimes people get frustrated and they take it out on others. I get frustrated when I have to deal with Mac's weirdness.
Sometimes. Is the adapter you're using a single USB port deal like this guy? Those tend no to be able to draw enough power for mechanical drives. Ideally, you want something with either a second USB plug for additional power, or a separate power brick to run the drive.
No problem. No need for apologies. We are all here to help. At the worst, you should be able to remove the drive and get one of these [link] and transfer her photos. You might be able to find one cheaper. I think I found one for a couple bucks. Just connect it to the drive and plug the usb into your pc.
a few options - check with a friend/relative if they have a PC, take the hdd to a repair shop, buy an ssd & install the OS on that, then get a drive dock or sata to usb adapter to check the health/integrity of the hdd.
You should be able to use the key that is on the computer sticker. You may have to order an OEM Windows 10 install disc from Dell though, in order to use it, unless one came with your system. (I believe the Win 10 Dell Discs are Purple.)
Another option is to clone your original drive to the SSD before swapping them. (Backup personal files, uninstall programs, etc to an external or USB drive if you need make the image smaller. If the SSD is smaller than the OEM drive.) Also, being a laptop, you may need to purchase a SATA to USB adapter in order to hook up your new SSD while the original hard drive is still in the PC.
This is the adapter: [link]
That's a thought I also had. I can't really answer it tho. Its connected to a USB 3.0 Port. Where can I get information about its power delivery? Didn't find much in the motherboards manual. SSD works fine with the adapter. Case is the Crystal 460x from Corsair. Same behaviour when connecting directly to the motherboards USB
I see. You're probably right. And I was going to say that the hard drive you have linked is awfully expensive but it's a 2.5 inch so thats why. Then my solution would figure out how much space you need and figure out if you can get it below 250GB. If so, definitely go with the SSD. Also, can you still use the hard disk you have now to store stuff? If there is no space in your laptop, can you use one of these for your old HDD? (You might be able to find a cheaper one i just linked the first one I saw.)
Don't you just need something like this?
Edit: Never mind, looks like the full enclosure you posted is actually cheaper.
Something like this?
Just a simple SATA to USB cable. Not sure if there would be enough power to drive the burner but it should read just fine.
I'd recommend getting an external USB to sATA adapter like this model:
I have some variation of this which is very helpful however this does require plugging the drive into a different PC. To mitigate this boot the PC off a live Ubuntu disk (DVD or USB) and use the file manager built in to copy files to another external drive like a flash drive.
Pull the drive out of the laptop, boot the PC to the live ubuntu image, connect the drive it to the adapter, plug it into the PC, and pull files via the file manager. You can then use built in disk tools to format the drive ready for reinstall. You don't need to DBAN it but could if you wanted to. A single format is probably fine.
Once done, with all files on a new drive, shutdown and unplug then use the media creation tool to get a current installation media for Windows. If you are using Windows 7 it might be complicated to find media.
>Is there any usb to SSD connector
Well yes there is, but it's kinda stupid to use that when you're already complaining about your shitty USB speeds.
Get a SATA cable and plug the SSD into a free SATA connector on your motherboard, much faster.
One last information:
You would need an adapter like this for the SSD, initially:
You probably want to copy your OS, programs, and files to the new SSD before inserting it, right? Since SATA-SSD do not have a USB port normally (as they are meant for internal use), you need an adapter like the one in the link in order to copy your data to the SSD. Use the adapter to connect the SSD to your Mac, and use a software like Carbon Copy Cloner to copy your OS / files / programs to the SSD. After this is done, you can dispose of the adapter and insert the SSD as described in the video.
Im assuming its sata. If not just search ide to usb adapter.
And to answer your question if its formatted then yes just plug in and access it like an external hard drive.
Replying to my own comment: I used one of these SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable to clone one of the PCs HDD to a SSD attached to a USB3 port on the PC.
It takes a lot longer to copy the data than connecting internally, but you do not have to open your case and find an extra SATA port and power cable. This works very well for laptops, simply clone and swap.
Note you should have a basic knowledge of drive partitions to use any of this cloning software. There are some good Youtube videos on the subject of cloning to SSDs you should review before attempting if you are inexperienced.
You should be fine with one of these [link] if it’s a 2.5” drive, as the USB ports are powered.
If it’s a 3.5” drive you’ll need an enclosure because USB won’t deliver enough power for that USB adapter.
> perfectly fine on my old laptop won’t boot on the new one.
That's not how you're supposed to do this. The first thing to try is to re-insert the old drive back into the old laptop, copy over all relevant files to a USB drive and then copy the files to the new Windows 10 machine. Or you buy a USB to SATA drive (like this one) and then try copying the files (usually located in Users folder) into the new machine.
I'm confused, does the new one have two drives? You say installed on the main SSD, so I assume there's a second one? Like an M.2 drive or something?
Will it boot if you just put the old drive in the new laptop? I've been able to do that then just immediately update all the drivers to those required for the new computer. As long as they're similar types of computers, default drivers should be enough to get you operational long enough to download the required drivers.
You may have to change the bios settings to boot in legacy mode, but it could work.
Personally I would buy one of these, copy all of your data from your old computer to the SSD that came in the new laptop. Put the old one in your new laptop, install your OS of choice, then copy all of your files over. It's the cleanest way to do it.
In general, it's worth checking how much it'd cost to repair yourself. You can generally buy OEM screens pretty cheap if you're willing to wait for them to ship.
The main blow with damaging a computer tends to be losing the data. Are you sure the hard drive's dead? If it isn't in pieces, I'd give it decent odds: computer have fall detection built in, so the disk will stop spinning - and won't get scratched - if you drop it. Spending twenty bucks on a SATA to USB cable and seeing if it'll spin up tends to be worth it. Having that guy lying you around can make you a pretty big hero if you come across anyone with a damaged computer.
Well. All you would need is an external SATA to USB cable. Should be pretty cheap. Maybe $20.
Once you replace the drive, and get MAC OS installed on the new drive, simply plug in the old drive to the adapter and copy everything over.
As for the replacement drive, I would splurge a little and go SSD. The performance gains are awesome.
Enclosure isn't even needed. Given the build quality and how enclosed a standard SSD is. A simple sata3 to usb 3.1 cable can do it too.
I'm running the above cable with a 250gb Samsung Evo
I running the same one without the case. Honestly SSD are so solidly built you don't even need one. You just need a SATA3 to usb 3.0 cable.
EDIT:. Added my cable.
StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable [link]
Or even something as simple as this depending on your use. [link]
Do you have a different computer? If so you can open the laptop, remove the hard drive, connect it to something like this, plug it into a different computer and access your files.
As for the laptop do you have access to a different monitor? Plug the monitor into the laptop and see if it produces a picture.
StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP – SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable
A quick Google search also shows that Walmart carries one as well. You can also get one from eBay or Newegg if you prefer.
That being said, your data is still safe. Just that the device has failed. You can extract the drive and connect it to another computer with this.
Your contents will be under the Users folder under your Username (name on the login screen L)
You should be able to find an adapter, although I can't quite tell what connection you'd need.
I've used SATA to USD adapters myself for the same very purpose, works perfectly. You may need 2x usb ports (one for reading data, the other for providing power)
Here are some examples [link]
Yep, agree with the other guy. You’ll need an adapter so your computer can read the drive.
Plug the weird looking end into the drive carefully, ensure it’s straight on there and not at an angle. Plug the rectangular end into the computer and open windows explorer. The files should be there on the left side navigation pane. Windows will give it a drive letter like D: or E:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used on of those usb-sata adapters, splitted the power cables from the usb directly to the USB power supply (a 2amp Motorola phone usb charger)
Firstly, SATA is the (almost) universal adapter for devices in computers (disk readers, storage drives, etc)
If you wanted to recover or view the files, you would need some sort of SATA to USB. Something that lets you connect the device to another computer.
Something like this would probably work.
> Also I want to remove and install the old hdd or even a new ssd what adapter would I need?
No adapter needed for the install itself. Drives of 2.5" form factor fit right in. You are going to need a screw driver and the drive, nothing else.
However, I assume you want to clone your current OS to the new drive or create a Time Machine backup before installing the new drive, don’t you? In this case, you are going to need a SATA-to-USB adapter like this:
There are two different ways to go about this:
> And last but not least the ram he told me that Kingston HyperX 8GB RAM 1600MHz is compatible but I have this feeling that my Mac will not work with that one? Maybe a different RAM anyone could recommend me?
Your MacBook Pro will need RAM modules that match the following specification:
PC3-10600 DDR3 1333 MHz, 204-pin
Those RAM modules should work, for example:
Your MacBook Pro supports up to 16 GB RAM (2 x 8 GB RAM modules). A higher amount won’t work due to a limitation in the logic board. Make sure you use both RAM slots instead of just a single one, as using a single one when you could use both comes with a (albeit small) performance penalty. So it is better to go for e.g. 2 x 4 GB modules instead of just 1 x 8 GB module.
These videos show you the procedure:
In case you want to replace the DVD drive with your old HDD, here is how to do that:
Depending on how much stuff is on your HDD, this would probably be just fine:
Here's a guide to cloning your drive:
If you don't have a spare sata cable to connect both drives to your computer at the same time, get one of these:
It looks like a standard 2.5" hard drive. You would buy a cable like this, plug it into the new computer, and cross your fingers.
By default, your iTunes Media folder is in your iTunes folder:
Never buy cables from BestBuy!
StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB) [link]
If you don't plan to use most of the files of the old laptop, then you would indeed need to get a USB SATA adapter. You can buy them on Amazon for $9.99.
The only thing that I am not entirely aware of is that this HD is in its own cage, which is the black plastic around the hard drive. It then uses the SATA data cable to connect to the motherboard on your old laptop.
I am not entirely sure, but based on the picture I believe it is a proprietary cable that is used to provide both power & data to the HDD.
So, you should hopefully be able to get the HDD out of that cage, which will then show you something like this.
Which is the connection you need to have available to use said USB adaptor.
Edit: had the wrong picture, kind of a facepalm moment.
DC connector, looks like the Snap and lock type, see this Wikipedia on the whole range of DC connectors.
I see some other plugs on this list that I have seen come up on this sub. Perhaps an admin can add this article to the FAT?
Try the steps listed on this page to find your model on the Lacie site using the SN. Then the site below should also be able to show you the right power brick for it.
You could also shuck the drive and use a standard SATA adapter to connect it to your computer.
My best shot at it. I have a very fast external usb drive but it's an older sandisk model they don't make any more, would assume other good brands are similar.
Would there be a danger of a virus being on a drive? Yea maybe, probably really slim chance. If you're not comfortable putting the drive on your main PC, may I suggest putting on a "dummy" console? (ie a PC you don't give a crap about)
I also suggest you invest a a SATA to USB cable like the one below, I find it useful to see what the content is on a 2.5" drive without having to bust open a PC and slapping in there (yea I'm lazy like that)
Just my .02
This almost sounds like a broken hard drive. If you need the files off of the computer, then try getting the hard drive out of the malfunctioning computer. Then get a converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=HDD+to+usb&qid=1558640049&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Be careful not to touch the green PCB on the bottom of the hard drive. And be sure to take care when plugging in and unplugging the hard drive, the connections on these things are not the strongest. Hard drive are pretty tough though, just don't drop them mostly. xD
Anyway, when you get the hard drive out, go ahead and plug it into the converter then into the working computer USB port and extract the files you need or want. I would suggest copying the files rather that moving them, by default it should be set to copy, just be mindful of this. When you're done, you can plug the hard drive back into the malfunctioning computer and continue to try and fix it with no worries of losing the files you want. Be sure open a picture or video after copying to make sure their not corrupted or broken in some way. A video is best as a single picture is significantly easier to copy without issue, so you should be fine if a video works.
You can check if the hard drive is working sometimes by listening and if you can hear a spin up the hard drive might still work. It can be hard to hear with laptop fans and such.
Here's a video that can help with the hard drive location and the take apart and put together process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YatNrUHN3c4
There are other videos on this too, if you want to to make extra sure.
There are risks to all of this, and it may end badly, but if you're careful the whole time then you should be okay.
I hope you like this book I wrote! And good luck!
StartTech also makes SATA to USB cables that work great and do the same job.
What I love about the Xbox is that it has a lot of similarities to that of a Windows machine. I am a systems engineer and I believe you have some corrupted system files. The hard drive will have to be completely wiped with the OS reinstalled. This can be easily done from any Windows PC however, you'll require a sata to usb connector in order to connect your Xbox drive to PC. Complete a search on YouTube and you'll find a few tutorials.
Or is it really really dead?
Get something like this it's a sata to USB adapter. Assuming the hard drive is sata. I don't think there is a solution for m.2
Buy an SSD larger or the same size as your VM's boot disk (not smaller, though). Then buy a USB-to-SATA cable. Plug these into the your computer that has the VM. Passthrough the disk to the VM. Login to your VM and run 'lsblk'. Ideally, your root/boot disk will be /dev/sda and your SSD will be /dev/sdb. Once you've got all that, then 'dd' the disk to copy the boot disk to the SSD:
# dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb conv=noerror,sync
Keep in mind that you better get the correct block device or you could wipe the wrong disk. Also, you'll probably want to make sure your services are stopped (like apache,mysql,radarr,sonarr,deluge,etc) during this... Once done, un-plug and plug into a new PC/System and make the SSD as your primary boot device in the BIOS (usually you don't have to do anything if it's the only disk).
# dd if=/dev/sda of=/dev/sdb conv=noerror,sync
Once booted, you can resize the partition and filesystem to make use of the entire disk.
what? either connect them internally with sata cables, or buy a large external drive and copy all the files to that. if you need an adapter to transfer things, here: [link]
I've never once heard of DRAMless drives (and I've seen a lot of SSDs) - I really don't think it's a common term you need to be familiar with...
All you need to check are read speeds, write speeds, and most importantly, reviews. The rest of the specs really do not matter in everyday use. Modern SSDs will last a long time, probably longer than you'll ever need - but read reviews to be sure.
I've had no problems with a number of Samsung, SanDisk, and a few Kingston drives - haven't tried any others.
Also just FYI, minimum drive size is 240GB for Xbox. Your dock must also support USB 3.0 (required for Xbox), and ideally UASP. If yours does not meet that requirement, my personal recommendation for SSDs is actually a simple cable - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ - I bought a bunch of these and they work great, far more convenient than any dock or enclosure, cheaper too.
As for the thumb drive... those typically have slow read speeds and even slower write speeds. Would not normally recommend, but it might work. Depends on the specific drives you have.
ah sorry to hear that. if your files are important to you it couldn't hurt to try plugging it into another pc or using a sata to usb adapter. also if you're able to access your files like this it'd be a good indicator that there's some other trivial issue at work here (like faulty sata cable or power cable).
I use a USB connected SSD. There are decent small ones with reasonable write endurance available fairly cheaply. A second option is to buy a better SSD for one of your other computers and put the replaced SSD in your Pi.
SSD 32GB $16: https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-SD6SA1M-032G-Internal-Half-Slim-Warranty/dp/B07MBDJ563/ref=sr_1_1
He is referring to something like This
>vantech harddrive-to-usb-in-a-hurry devices
Just a heads up, if you are talking about something like this : https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CKAAWZEZQ80KR3EHP8D9
That will not work for a mechanical drive, only an ssd. Even with the extra power from that power plug. If you want something that will work with a mechanical drive you need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Adapter-Optional-Power/dp/B00U6JEKVA/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_4/136-8469501-7879121?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00U6JEKVA&pd_rd_r=4fc62d4c-19ba-11e9-8448-d7e517c085e3&pd_rd_w=Zxqal&pd_rd_wg=TyZKC&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=Q7VDHSAH1DJQRBXFNY9H&psc=1&refRID=Q7VDHSAH1DJQRBXFNY9H
Samsung 850 Evo's are a good pick (2.5" form factor) and the price has come down quite a bit:
"I would like to swap that SSD with the current HDD and put the (current) HDD inside a media bay caddy. Thank you!"
First get a USB to SATA cable so you can clone the old HDD (with it still inside the T540p) to the new SSD (attached via cable outside the laptop). Something like this:
For cloning software I use EaseUS Todo which is free and pretty easy to use. Since you'd be going the HDD to SSD route make sure to enable 'SSD Optimizations' and also have the option enabled to shutdown the system once it finishes the cloning process. At that point you can pull the HDD out and put the SSD in.
So afterwards you can either keep the HDD intact with everything on it for a backup in case something happens or wipe it to use in the optical bay for extra storage. Tbh I'd do the former and get a cheap 1TB drive that is new (less prone to fail vs an old HDD plus you have a backup). For optical bay caddies go with Nimitz, they're good quality and should fit flush with your T540p (the one for my T430 was flush):
For HDD's HGST (aka Western Digital) is a good brand and are very reliable:
You connect the SSD to a Sata to USB connector for the cloning operation. Works real smooth. Easy to do. [link]
1: The Crucial MX500 ones are also really good SSDs, if they are cheaper than the Samsung 860 go for them instead.
2: Best way is to just format everything(save your important files!) then prepare a Windows 10 boot stick and install a fresh copy on your ssd.
3:Why would you remove your HDD? You can have both an SSD and HDD at the same time in your PC. The HDD itself is not making your PC slow, so just having it in your pc wont make the SSD go to waste. If you however want to really get rid of your HDD(I would only suggest that if you get urself 2 SSD's, 1 small for the OS and programs and one 1TB one maybe for all the other stuff like games/videos etc.) in your pc, you can get an adapter so you can fire up your HDD via USB -> https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
you can always get a "usb to sata" cable. It has both the power and data port.
If you want to keep everything interal, ebay has you covered. Usually a power connector connects to the PSU and it would have several power connectors branching out of that single cable.
Although, I recommend getting the splitter and using your existing cable to connect both hdd and sdd.
Edit: I didn't read that you checked ebay already lol but the pc specialist is BS. your ssd is not mini sata. it's standard sata.
if you dont have a USB adapter, or any way to connect to drives to one computer, then i suggest a completely different method.
first, while your old drive is still running, connect your windows license to your Microsoft account.
next, swap the drives and then do a clean windows 10 install from USB.
then, restore the license from your windows account.
you need to either clone the drive, or do this, otherwise you wont be able to transfer the license key.
I'm using a USB to SATA cable to connect my 250 GB SSDs to my Pis, no external power just a 2.5 Amp unit for the Pi. No issues and it sees a fair amount of use as it is serving as an SMB v1 server for my Sonos system.
I've used this case too but it seems silly given the sealed SSDs I'm using:
If I wanted to use a spinning rust drive I'd buy a different cable that split signal and power and add a second power brick. Don't have this one, an example only.
yes, then you can get everything important off the HDD and move it on the SDD, you can still use the HDD as a external drive, but due to potential unreliability you should get everything important off.
Basically you would use something like this:
I'm using this one with an SSD currently, I also have the Type-C SKU. Just don't leave the drive plugged in when you're transporting it, and get a case for your drive if you've got a HDD, and it should last.
It's even simplier than that, a simple sata to USB 3.0 for 2.5" drives will do, that is what I use, no need for case nor external power supply
Like this one [link]
Ok last questions I promise
Instead of putting the os on the sd card cant you just put it on the ssd?
Is your ssd 2.5inch idk if that matters or not or if another even exists
Do you use a Usb to satacable to plug into your ssd or is it a external ssd
Is this the kind of HDD you use?
Would this work? [link]
Swapping out the HDD in that is fairly easy: [link]
If you do go that route, I'd recommend getting a USB to SATA adapter so you can directly clone the HDD over to the new SSD, then it's basically just 'plug and play'.
You can use basically any HDD/SDD as an Xbox One external storage drive. Any USB drive will work as-is, any SATA drive can be used with a USB3 to SATA converter like this one:
I wouldn't even put it back into the laptop. Do the above prep and clone it using one of these [link]
You want to get the information off there as fast as possible with one big read then try the new drive in the laptop. If it works then great, otherwise you can have it sent to someone for data recovery. It's expensive.
edit: something like this is better [link]
it's useful in the future and will work better because the whole thing isn't powered from the USB port. Faster.
Probably not since laptops are designed to only support a single hard drive at a time, and swapping them will almost always result in similar boot issues due to the differing hardware.
Her hard drive could be removed from the laptop and plugged into any computer that has a spare SATA connector so that it can be browsed as another drive from within the computer's main operating system. Otherwise you'd need a SATA to USB cable that'd allow her to connect her drive to the other laptop via USB. You'd first want to make sure her laptop has a SATA drive and the other has a USB 3.0 port (they sell others for USB 2.0).
Agreed. Buy an SSD(~$40 per 120GB) , and a USB to SATA Adapter $10 +/- like this one, use a free program like AOEMI backupper to clone the drive. Then swap the drives, lookup your PC brand hardware guide online, you might need a special screwdriver size / bit and some patience. Some are very easy, can remove one cover and swap out, others involve much more disassembly... and may not be something a novice would want to take on.
Upgrading the RAM from 4 to 8GB would help but the cost of old ram is also pricey and the HDD is still going to be a big bottleneck.
If I were working on this problem in our tech shop, I would start by plugging your external hard drive into another computer to see if it is recognized there instead. If that failed, I would plug it into a Mac.
If that also failed, then my first thought is that the external drive's USB adapter is no good. I would see if it is possible to open the external hard drive case and use a new USB to SATA adapter to plug the drive directly into a computer. For this step, you would need a phillips head screwdriver and a USB to SATA adapter, something end-users usually don't have handy. They are inexpensive, at least. Something like $15. [link]
Make sure you don't crack open the drive itself. If you see torx screws (star shaped) then do not unscrew them.
If that wasn't an option, then we're getting into data recovery territory. For freeware recovery tools, I like to recommend Recuva. [link] Get that installed, plug your external drive in, and see if Recuva can see the physical drive. If so, then it may be able to undelete your data.
And lastly, and I realize this advice is too late given the circumstances, but in the future, it might be a good idea to keep a second copy of your data in a separate location. Losing data is heartbreaking -- it happened to me in the late 90's and that's all it took for me to start backing up regularly.
You could more than likely put it in another laptop, but not at the same time as the existing hard drive. One of these would serve you well.
You dont need an enclosure. Just SATA to USB 3.x adapter. I picked mine up for $4 off Ebay.
I don't know why you'd use anything else now. A cable is only $12: [link]
I'll be up front, that is not good news. What I'm about to tell you is actually my least favorite part of my job. It sounds to me like your external drive's controller board is fine, but your hard disk might be failing.
If you are comfortable enough and have another drive that will fit for testing, swap another drive in there and try to read it. If you get nothing, your controller is fucked and you should get one of these and back up its contents ASAP.
There's also a chance that it's been formatted RAW. In this case, if you're okay with rolling the dice, you can attempt to clean it with diskpart, format it and go back over it with Recuva or Shadow Explorer to help you retrieve your files. Do so at your own risk! But it is important to know that when you format a disk, you aren't deleting the data. You're telling the drive that it is okay to write over any data on the disk. So don't write anything to it and you will be fine.
Barring that, you may need to seek out advanced data recovery services. A platter transfer might be necessary and is best left to a data recovery specialist. This can be very costly.
There's an unfortunate final option, which is that there is no Sata to USB converter inside the drive and it goes straight to USB. Straight to data recovery.
Edited because Amazon puts all that extra shit in your clipboard when you share from the site.
something like this will help the data migration
*edit - just search ssd to usb
All you usually really need to check whether the drive is working is a product like [link] or [link] (there are tons of these out there, these are just examples) -- pull the drive out, hook it up, and connect it to a USB port on your computer. If drive is recognized and works fine (you might need to check the filesystem, etc.), replace the drive cable. If drive doesn't spin up, etc., replace the drive (it's possible that both the drive cable and drive have failed but the vast majority of laptop hardware failures are single-component failures).
I'll try that it could be the issue and [link] thats what i got and i do own a spare adapter though i could try that
What you're looking for is called a NAS or Network Attached Storage. These can be as simple as plugging a external HDD with a SATA to USB cable into a USB port in your router, to buying a multi HDD enclosure, to a diy NAS with some parts you may have laying around.
I started out with a cheap 2hdd Dlink enclosure similar to the one above but I now have a diy 6-disk 16Tb home server running FreeNAS as the operating system.
Is that what your speaking of?
There are programs like this that will let you read Apple's file structure in Windows. Use that plus a standard USB to SATA converter, or straight up install the drive in your PC.
So could this [link] and this [link] work? The ssd is 60 bucks but hey if It can stop the playdoh buildings then I'll take it plus I would have enough room for maybe one more game.
I stuck 4 rubber feet to the bottom of mine and put one of these
on the back...
Are you mounting the drive? If you're just connecting it externally they have SATA to USB like this
Either buy a new case or a USB to SATA cable
Depending on the severity of the drive failure, there might be a great chance of recovery using simple forensic tools, or no chance based solely on the fact that the drive doesn't spin anymore.
I recovered about 100gb of data from my wife's dying Mac drive, but it wasn't completely done for by the time I got to it.
I am not sure how to help you, especially considering the physical nature of the problem.
I guess I can run you through some questions and maybe gain a little more knowledge before trying things out.
When you turn your Macbook on, what do you? (e.g. A question mark inside a folder?)
After you boot your Macbook up, place your ear near where the hard drive is; do you hear a "clicking" noise.
Make sure you don't turn on the laptop with the drive plugged in unless you absolutely need to; the more strain you put on it, the lesser chances of discovering if the drive can be recovered
Do you have access to another Mac or Apple computer?
Can you afford to buy this sort of tool: [link]
Basically, you will probably want to remove the drive from your Macbook, which isn't really tough to do, but you do need some fairly specific screwdrivers and a guide (video or text/pictures)
To get you going on that front, I will need the make and model of the laptop (e.g. Macbook Pro Early 2014)
On the recovery front, you need software. If this were a PC/Windows machine with a simple partition, you could use recuvah or other tools. When I had to do it on a Mac, I couldn't afford the software and instead opted for a pirated copy. I can't condone this, but send me a PM and we can try and find you a good deal.
Basically, what you want to do is leave your laptop turned off. You want to remove the battery, then find all the small screws on the backside of the laptop. You will remove the bottom which will then give you access to things like changing/upgrading your memory and/or hard drive.
The hard drives on a Mac typically have these little metal nubs in the thread holes that almost require a specialized tool kit (like I mentioned before, I will link after my wall of text)
Once you remove the drive, you plug in the USB2SATA connector to the drive, and then plug it into the other Macbook using the USB adapter.
If and when you can get to this point, the entire process afterward is trying to figure out if the drive is completely dead or just starting to die.
I completely understand your frustrations; we lost a LOT of videos and pictures, but we learned from our mistakes and have taken appropriate measures to back up our important stuff using services like flickr.com, google drive and Microsoft OneDrive. Apple also offers a reasonably priced cloud service on iCloud.
You can PM me or we can communicate on this thread, but if we can at least get you to the point of discovering whether or not you are going to recover things, it will help ease out the next steps.
Once you have the drive removed, do yourself a favor and place it in a static bag if you can, or a simple static free sandwich bag (sealed) with a small silica gel bag in it (to remove any and all moisture on the internal components).
Let me know!
Hey my fellow pcmr mates,
can a product like this [link]
work for my 2.5inch harddrive?
can the usb even power up the harddrive?
my hdd is this
You cannot just put the 2tb into the Pro and have all the stuff you had.
You can do a full backup of your current ps4 2tb, but you will need an external drive to do it.
You should at minimum, backup your saved games/screenshots to a USB drive.
You could remove the PS4 Pro's 1TB drive, format it and use it as the external drive if you have or get an external enclosure or an adapter like [link]
When I purchased my Pro I also purchased a 2TB SSHD to go with it. I never even turned on the Pro with it's original HDD. You will have to download the latest firmware, the full version onto a USB. You will need that when changing hard drives.[link]
[link] disk one. Hard drive was working the laptop didnt turn on. The cable was ([link]) this one.
If you don’t have a spare SATA cable, I used this with no complaints.
Then a SATA to USB cable would be more your speed. Just plug in the drive, no enclosure needed.
If it's disk-checking, it's possible it's just a hard-drive issue. Have you been able to boot it long enough to check the hand-drive?
If not, do you have another computer you can plug it into (SATA to USB, if it uses SATA) in order to run the check?
Have you taken the CPU out and checked the pins? It's possible something rusted or grew in there which is interrupting the connection.
$10 or so
well the easiest thing is a simple cable like this with USB 3 it's pretty fast too.
No, that one is data only. You need power. So you could get this, which is powered off USB, or this, which has wall power.
just connect them to ps4, with an adapter
Yeah, ezpz. Pop that sucker out and get something like this:
[link] Personally i have a laptop so i use one of these, works just like an usb external hard drive.
Beep codes mean there is most likely a hardware issue, this website here supposedly can help you identify where the start looking [link]
Honestly with a laptop that old there is bound to be some part of the board or memory giving out. The good news is that it sounds like the hard drive could still be perfectly fine. You can buy something like this [link] that can take your hard drive and mount it on someone else's PC to recover data.
Yes, most of the time. Just make sure you're buying from a reputible brand. Here are some picks:
StarTech SATA to USB 3.0 adapter
Anker USB 3.0 & eSATA to SATA Dock
Edit: Anyone know how to prevent reddit from formatting the bullet points the way it is? I've listed them one after the other yet it's still indenting the second link...
This is the kind of cable you require.
External storage is a stop-gap measure at best; as is cloud storage. But you're in luck, because the 2013 MacBook Pro is easy to upgrade with a larger hard drive or SSD. (Some newer models can't be upgraded.)
Start by checking the 'About This Mac' option in Finder to confirm which model you have.
Decide on the capacity you need to buy. SSDs slow down and become more prone to failure when they're used for long periods at close to their capacity so buy at least one size up from what you use. (e.g. is you store 200GB, don't buy a 250GB, get the 500GB).
If you have any thoughts of adding RAM at the same time, it's cheap, easy to do, and for machines with only 4GB, can significantly improve performance. If you have or are planning to upgrade to OS to Sierra, then you definitely want more than 4GB. Enter your MacBook Pro model information here and they'll show you the right RAM.
Watch a youtube video on how to replace the hard drive. It's super easy; as is adding RAM.
After you're don't you'll reload the OS via the Internet but you'll need a way to connect the old drive to the computer so you can copy your data files to the new drive. An inexpensive USB-SATA adapter will do the job.
There's a possibility the external enclosure is broken but the drive is fine (I've seen this quite a few times). Take it out of the enclosure and try to access the drive directly. If you have a desktop just plug it in as an additional hard drive.
~~If you only have a desktop you'll need a SATA (assuming this drive isn't ancient - left is IDE right is SATA [link]) adapter to USB. If it's a smaller (2.5" drive) you can probably get away with something like this [link] If it's a larger 3.5" drive you'll want something with a separate power source, like this [link] I personally would err on the side of getting the external power adapter myself, to rule out "not enough power" as a reason the drive doesn't work.~~
edit: I would actually spring for something like this [link] Only $23 but has a lot of good reviews, I've heard good things about it specifically in the past as well. The last thing you want to do is cheap out on the adapter and think your drive is dead when your adapter is really just crap.
If the drive itself works but the computer doesn't recognize the partitions, try using linux to DD the files over and then mount the partition manually. DM me if you get here and I can either give you some pointers (if you're comfortable with linux CLI) or we may be able to work something out.
If the drive doesn't spin up when you apply power you are dealing with a situation in which you can either accept defeat or pay a LOT of money to have the files recovered professionally.
Yes. A cable like this will provide power and data.
I don't think I've ever seen anything specifically for 5.25" drives.
You can get USB to SATA adapter cables that should work, but it wouldn't have a nice enclosure.
What about this? [link]
Refer to this video in order to remove your drive. If your brother sells you his laptop you should be able to swap drives. Otherwise you can use a cable like this to transfer your data to a new computer.
I can help ya. Okay first get a usb to sata adaptor:
Something like this should work. Next get carbon copy cloner:
Now connect your new hard drive to the usb adapter. Run carbon copy cloner and make a full copy of your boot disk to the usb disk. Now get clover efi:
Install this package to your usb hard drive. After you finish, take the usb disk and mount it in your new hackintosh build and you should be ready to go.
I have personally used this method dozens of times on may different computers. If it's compatible hardware everything should work just like your current OS with all your files and everything. You could even just install Clover efi to your boot disk and move it directly into the the new hackintosh. I actually used a hackintosh hard drive in my macbook pro and it worked flawlessly.
That's probably the cause, win10 try to do too much stuff at once and the system lose responsiveness waiting for the hdd. I had the same problems with a brand new Nuc with a powerful i5. You can try to disable telemetry, indexes, cortana, delay the antivirus etc... but they will return after any major windows update. Upgrading to a ssd is probably the thing that can grant you the most benefit. Duplicating your old hdd is quite easy on a software level. Install some utility like Backupper, and with a few clicks the new SSD will be a bootable copy of your old HDD.
On an hardware level, it depends on your case, your motherboard and your psu. You must open the case and plug the new SSD to the motherboard and the PSU, so you may need some extra cables if they did not come with the SSD/psu/motherboard.
Most ssd use sata interface , while the older hdd still have pata, you should first check if your motherboard support sata for the ssd, but it is quite common since a decade or more.
You can even duplicate it using an USB adapter for the ssd like this , without the need to open the case.
After that you have to decide if replace the hdd or still use it as data drive.
In the first case, just unplug the cables from the HDD and plug them to the sdd, win10 should be able to start like nothing has changed. If you want to use both but boot from the ssd, you may have to tinker with the bios (something on the motherboard that start before windows) and manually choose the ssd as booting disk instead of the hdd.
The HDD is SATA, that fancy case is just a SATA > USB adapter, it died so you need a new one [link]
All you need is SATA > USB
Since you just have a 2.5" drive, you shouldn't need any power other than from USB. A real enclosure isn't necessary, you can find just a cable.
Here is an example
I'm in the same situation as you. My WD My Book crapped the bed. It still spins up but the computer sees no writable partitions. The I/O light doesn't even blink anymore. Just stays solid. Although, I got the cable just right once and I was able to slowly copy a few files over before the problem started repeating again. So this leads me to believe it is a port/cable issue. It was even still under warranty. But you have to ship it back to them and they ship you a NEW one. If you want your data recovered you have to send to to a third party first. WD says they destroy your data but I don't trust it.
The WD My Books are just HDDs with a shell so you should be able to swap the HD with another working WD Mybook
You can also take the case off and it has an adapter on the HDD to change it from 2.5SATA to USB 3.0 micro b that you can slide off and make it a normal HDD. So if you have an extra PC or trust yourself installing a second HDD in your current PC you could try that. I attempted this and failed. But I contributed it to trying to install a 4TB hd on an old dell with 2GHz processor and 2gbs ram. Even when I set my bios to boot to the Dells original Seagate HDD, the dell still tries to boot from the 4tb WD drive that never had an OS on it. And plugging it into an already booted computer failed too (risky move but I was desperate).
I've got three more solutions I'm gonna try. Gonna email WD an ask istead of replacing my drive if they will send me a new SATA to SS adapter and a new cable that comes with it. If not, Hopefully a USB 3.0 to 2.5 SATA cable does the trick.
And if all else fails. An HDD dock seems like my favorite and an all round better solution than external WD my books.
You shouldn't have to solder anything. But I haven't been successful at recovering the data so what do I know hahaha
What about this?
Is this the same as what you said, just minus the enclosure?
Why not get a normal hard-drive and something like this?
Well I have an external hard drive. I backed up that first. Then I made the swap. Then with the HDD I used a cable like this to do the transfer. Worked just fine.
Totally agree with /u/fcewen00's advice to replace it with an SSD to get your Mac up and running again.
To clarify the data recovery portion, just because it won't boot doesn't mean that all data is lost.
First of all, a clicking drive can potentially do more physical damage to the data on the drive if you try to read from it. So, if the data is really important to you, the best bet is to send it off to Drive Savers right away. They will disassemble the drive, and get as much data off as possible. However, this is usually a last-resort due to the price tag.
If you want to give it a shot yourself, you could attach the removed drive to a working Mac or Linux box with a USB/SATA cable (like this one), and attempt to browse and copy files. Note: if you attach it to a Mac, it may take a very long time to mount (give it at least 15 minutes).
If that's not working, you could try a free tool called ddrescue to attempt to create an image of the bad drive. A while ago, I wrote up a quick tutorial on the commands necessary. Note: for this, you will need at least as much free space on the host drive as the capacity of the failing drive (meaning you likely won't be able to run it on your shiny new ssd Mac).
The "screenshot" you are talking about is called an image. An image is like a giant file that you can copy and paste onto another hard drive. Later if your ssd becomes corrupt or something else happens to it, you can boot into the windows recovery and restore the image.
Go into the control panel and look up "backup and restore". Once you are in the "backup and restore" settings then you will see an option to create a system image on the left sidebar. You can click it and select the disk you want to save the image to. Once you are done windows should ask if you want to make a recovery disk. Make the recovery disk, and later if you need to restore the image you just made you can boot from the disk and restore your image.
You can find more info on creating and restoring the backup here.
Note: You made need equipment to connect the hdd to the computer with the ssd if they are not already connected. Something that connects USB to SATA like this would probably work.
I thought that would be sufficient, but I probably should have looked at it more.
On most 2.5" laptop drives, the power and data connectors are side-by-side and effectively make up a single connector.
It will be pretty uncommon to find a connector that doesn't encompass both of these, so it should be taken care of.
Like this is all you need (unless your drive has a different connector): [link]
Buying a cable like this would allow me to connect the HDs to my laptop right?
You may not need to boot from the hard drive. Take it out and see what kinds of connectors are on it. In all likelihood it'll probably be SATA in which case you can get this guy but if it's older it might be IDE or something else that would need a different adapter. If it's something exotic that you can't identify post a picture, I or someone else can help.
Thanks for the reply, I was looking at a western digital 2.5 1tb hdd but just wanted to make sure it would work. Also how could hook it up to the computer? Would I be able to use this to connect to winhip?
or this one with 2 usb connections?
which one would you recommend? Thanks.
The PCIe SSD is faster than the SATA, but you probably know that already.
You can get an adapter and use it as an external hard-drive: [link]
This thread might also be helpful: [link]
Something like this will be what you need.
Try one of these, Take out the HDD and plug it into your own PC
Yeah, I bought this one about a month ago and it works will with 2.5" drives.
You can either get yourself a bootable windows on a USB flash drive which you can choose as boot device in your bios to install windows on your new SSD (there are several tutorials online on how to do this for example here) or you can do what I did and get a USB-adapter like that one and use it to clone an exact image of your existing drive onto your SSD (I used dd in linux but there is software like acronis that should enable you to do the same in windows) given of course that your SSD is not smaller than the content of your HDD.
use macrium reflect. its a free program that will let you clone drives. you will need to be able to plug in both drives simultaneously, so you might need a usb to sata adapter like this
if you get a samsung ssd, it comes with data migration software.
1 Cloning is the way to go as there is no real evidence a clean install of windows is better. however it's a lot more time consuming.
2 on HDD, delete recycling bin and as many files/unused programs as possible. Then long degrag drive using degraggler
3 use this guide if windows doesn't recognize ur new SSD.
4 Follow this guide using Macrium Reflect to clone HDD to SSD. Here is a step by step video
If you have a laptop and only space for one drive you'll need to clone to the SSD while it's external and need a USB to SATA cable, enclosure etc. An enclosure might be a better choice if later you plan on using the HDD for external storage. The cable is a better choice if you plan on doing this often, for friends.
Edit: Reddit has been a total bust for computer support for me. I just condensed 15+hrs of research and execution into a few simple steps, links included, and it's downvoted. Now I know why so few people are willing to help here
[link] will I need this for the process? i will buy it separately if needed
Will this also work? [link]
Good info and presentation.
Curious, why the docking station instead of a USB 3 to SATA III cable?
one - use disk copy software to copy your existing hard drive data onto your new hard drive. Use <strong>Macrium Reflect Free version</strong> note: you may need a USB to SATA connector to connect your new drive to your computer.
two - Open your laptop, replace old drive with new drive.
three - replace all screws and plates.
four - boot up new computer!
Optional extra step: use your old hard drive and your new USB-SATA connector as an external drive
StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable [link]
I have the Thinkpad Yoga 14 1st Gen.
I cloned my HDD to my SSD using a SATA to USB 3.0 adapter. I used Macrium Reflect free trial as the cloning software.
Although the RAM is not soldered to the motherboard, there is no extra RAM slot.
I removed my M.2 SSD.
Oh, but you'll need something like this or this.
Would this work instead of the closure?
It doesn't reduce the number of cables required, but it does look nice.
This one specifically, it Basically makes it act as an external hard drive
Wow, that is quite the repair horror story :0
What you would need to do is remove the HDD from the computer (video of your similar model). Then just buy a USB to SATA Cable (HDD connection) then just plug it in like a normal USB drive.
Edit: Forget all that lol. You could just reinstall Windows, my bad Duh lol Do you have a Windows 7 reinstall disc?
something like that should work, or you could get one of these:
and have it be more like a pre-configured external storage
The tick of death is problematic. It means there's a mechanical problem with the drive.
It sounds like you might have already tried this: The problem is likely internal to the drive within the casing, so taking it out of the casing probably won't help. But you could try disassembling it and then either plugging it into the inside of a tower and recovering it there or using a 2.5" SATA --> USB adapter.
Your best bet is an unfortunately expensive data recovery specialist like Kroll.
windows 8.1 runs virtually the same as 7 nowadays and you can get software like Classic Shell to make 8 seem just like 7.
dont format anything, just get an external drive and more your documents / pictures over to the newer computer. if the acer nitro has a spare harddrive slot, you can just use your old computer's drive as a data drive.
if you dont have an external drive, get a Sata to USB Cable to move the file over, or you can turn the old drive into an external hardrive with an enclosure
I use this with my Xbox One / SSD setup. Cheap and easy.
I use this cable and swap drives. USB alone doesn't have enough to power 3.5" drives, but it's fine with most 2.5" drives.
You could try plugging the hard drive into one of these things to see if your files are still alive.
If your looking for Sata to USB try this
1) Grab yourself a $12 USB to SATA adapter
2) Open up your computer and remove the hard drive Following this guide
3) Just plug your old hard drive into another mac (now running as an external USB drive) and grab the files you'd like
the one for 3.5"
Don't bother with an enclosure. Internal/bare SSDs are just a tiny board inside of a metal box, so you don't need a second enclosure.
For SSDs, I tend to go with SanDisk, Samsung, Kingston, or Intel - but just look for any one with good reviews.
Any SSD that's at least 240 GB and has a SATA 3 connector will work. Don't get an M.2 one (they're a lot smaller) as they are just the exposed board, with a different connector (those ones DO require an enclosure).
To actually connect it to the Xbox, you'll need a SATA to USB cable. These are just like a normal cable, but they let you plug in any drive over USB, without needing an enclosure. I have three of these and they're excellent: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_bVh3CbS2BKNMK
I have a couple around the house. Useful when cloning a HDD/SDD. I replaced the HDD in my PC to SSD (best value-for-money performance upgrade) and now I use that old HDD as an external drive with one of these cables.
You can get fancier ones with a proper enclosure if you like.
I have one of these that I used in conjunction with this software to clone over my drives from a smaller to larger partition.
I think there was an option in this software to also create an image of the drive, but that may have been a paid feature. You can also try doing a VMware backup image, and then restoring from that.
I just use this: [link]
Greetings PC overlords:
Could someone help me identify which kind of cable I could use to hook up a couple of ancient (10-15yr?) hard drives? I do not even know what they are called...sata something?
They are both slightly different, so I'm wondering if I need two different converter cables or if there is a universal one I could use. Could I use something like this? amazon
Photo of HDs here
How does it defeat the purpose? Here you go. $130 compared to $200? I'll take $130.
Cheaper method and just get a 7200 rpm 2.5 because they usually use less voltage so no need to have all them extra cables, my little setup And if HDD isn't your issue might just be your xbox's cpu/gpu dying off rip [link]
Thanks, not really what I was looking for though. Something like this but would work with an ODD.
pull the hard drive, if its wet, make it dry, bag of rice, the usual... salvage data first. plug that drive into another computer (usb-sata would work well) get your data safe first. then worry about the rest.
get this and keep that drive in a hag of rice until it comes in - [link]
StarTech.com USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD - Hard Drive Adapter Cable [link]
I recently bought this wire from Amazon. It worked very well and if the price is right...
You can use the same type of usb enclosure on a mac. Or just an adapter like this.
Hold on, there's more! <strong>Get this too so you can use the SATA to USB</strong>! Thank me later!
StarTech.com USB3S2SAT3CB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD [link]