That lock is shimmable, meaning you can likely open it with a small piece of soda can shoved between the lock body and shackle.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S5Y91E?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
would be a better option, they have ball bearings to hold the shackle closed which will resist shimming, are designed for outdoor use, and are dimple core locks which are probably more difficult to pick for your average burglar.
80TI is a fun, reasonably tough pick.
410 LOTO can be a tough one too, don’t turn it into a rattle toy!
I really like recommending the Paclock 90A for Green: good quality, variety of security pins, their President is on here and a cool guy, but best of all it sets you up nicely to pick an American 1100 (de facto standard for Blue belt). It’s also easy to gut, and can be found on Amazon.
My favorite was the Abus 75IB/50. It’s a fun pick, a lot of folk’s first dimple (it was mine), it’s affordable, and available on Amazon. It’s where I discovered my love for dimples, YMMV.
I started picking dimple locks with an ABUS 751B/50. It was a great lock on which to learn dimples. Amazon link
Tip 1:
Everyone here has mentioned using non-approved TSA locks, but also…make SURE your padlock or disc lock will clear the holes on a Pelican. Buy ahead of time and test them out to ensure compatibility.
The diameter of the shackle should be thick enough to deter theft, but not so thick that you can’t fit it through the hasp on the case. The lock should also have as minimal play as around the hasp as possible, i.e., don’t get a padlock with an extra long shackle. I used a disc lock for that sole purpose on the corner hasps to prevent it from being pried open…beware though, the fit of most disc locks is going to be super, super TIGHT on a Pelican, and if you don’t practice how to get them on and off easily you will a) waste time trying to unlock your case when TSA comes to inspect your firearms and b) you will definitely look like a bumbling idiot, which is not a great way to display your ability to be a responsible gun owner.
Would recommend the Abus here as these were the ones I used on the two center hasps of my V800. Very little play, and easy to get off. The only downside is that if you don’t buy keyed-alike locks, you’re fumbling through four separate keys on each one unless you color code the lock/keys.
Also, speaking of the hasp…I would recommend getting a Pelican case with a hardened one. I bought the Vault V800, which was fine for the one-way trip (I don’t plan on flying my long guns out of CA anytime soon); however, it has no metal reinforcement rings on the hasps, and I’m sure over time the lock will wear down the ABS plastic and snap right off.
Tip 2:
AIRTAG YOUR SHIT. If you have an iPhone and have even more money to throw at Apple, either Airtag your case (the cheaper method) or Airtag EVERYTHING in your case using this lockable Airtag cover.
In the HIGHLY unlikely event your guns somehow get stolen, you can at least provide some location details to authorities. On the more likely scenario that the airline somehow fucks up and loses your firearms/sends them somewhere else…well, now you can track it and complain to the ATF how your airline was just itching to be investigated.
It’s also kinda cool tracking your gear going from intake, to baggage, to right underneath your seat in the cargo hold. It was also super useful in tracking its travels to the airline’s baggage claim, which for some reason at SFO they do NOT give a flying fuck about security when it comes to losing your guns. Seriously. Some schmuck just left it outside of the airline baggage claim office. They barely even checked my claim ticket. I literally could have just walked over and picked it up without them noticing. Has it not been Airtagged, I wouldn’t have noticed it being dropped off near me.
Tip 3:
This may vary from state to state, but in many blue places where the people tend to react like you’re about to recreate the airport scene in Call of Duty if they see (secured) firearms in an airport…just run cable locks or a combo of a trigger lock/chamber flag. Trust me. This got me through inspection with MUCH less scrutiny, and the PO that had to come inspect it was absolutely cool for someone working in a VERY anti-gun area (NY…). It was a necessary evil on my part to put my best foot forward and peacock how absolutely responsible I am as a gun owner to make my life easier.
Again, mileage may vary. I don’t know how it is in HI, so use your best judgment here.
So I saw someone else's comment about soaking the existing lock in vinegar to dissolve any gunk, and that's a reasonable thing to try and might make all the difference. Like they said thoroughly dry it afterwards. I would recommend pouring some rubbing alcohol in it to help with that, then let it dry out. Spraying some sort of lubricant in the keyway and lock body would then be the last step.
If you do want to buy a new lock, for your situation, you would have a great value for the price with the following: ABUS 75IB/50 KD Marine Grade Chrome Plated Brass Padlock, Stainless Steel Shackle. An Amazon link is below.
Why this lock? A few reasons. - ABUS makes very good quality locks, and the fact that this one is only $23 is surprising and is a great value. The overall quality of this lock is going to be at least one level up from a standard padlock you'll find in the hardware store, and that you'll pay just as much for. And this lock is designed for exposure to the weather. - This lock has a 'unique' sort of key and keyway, which is going to prevent the types of attacks (bumping and raking) that let's someone with almost no skill open almost any master lock or other low quality lock in seconds with $2 in tools. - The key is reversible, which may make it a little easier for you husband with his hand tremors. - The shackle is a medium diameter shackle, which should give reasonable protection while still making it easy to thread onto the chain (again, with hand tremors in mind).
So why wouldn't you buy this lock? Well, because someone with a large pair of bolt cutters can come and cut this lock right off. But unless you bought hardened security chain, which in all likelihood you didn't, they will be able to simply snip the chain just as easy as the lock shackle itself with a large pair of bolt cutters.
For another $20-$30 or so, I can absolutely recommend a more physically secure lock, if that's something you would prefer. But you are quickly going to get to the point where your lock itself is definitely not the weak point of the system. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S5Y91E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VEB66TW4YSTBTD4WB3CV