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1) Run a humidifier in the room you spend the most time in and your bedroom when you sleep. Seriously, this is a fucking lifesaver in the cold. Cold air dries out the air which triggers asthma. Humidified cold air will not affect you at all.
2) Take OTC antihistamines every day (claritin, zyrtec, allegra, whatever works for you). Also helps stop your lungs from releasing histamines in response to the dry air when you can't be in a humidified room.
If you take antihistamines just make sure they don't conflict with whatever meds you're already taking for your cold. Another thing about humidifiers, humidity of over 55% can increase the growth of mold in your room. If you're running a humidifier it's worth it to invest in a cheap humidity monitor for your room. I just bought this one for $10 [link]
basking light isnt required and thermostat for heating pad is 100% required you will burn your snake without one. thermostat also shows you temps and accuirite makes hydrometer and thermometer . and 2 hides is required one on hot other on the cool side.
just to be clear a basking light will kill your humidity so it can actually be bad but depends on where you live also
Just FYI, energy wise this will be equivalent of turning the thermostat down a few degrees to meet the required temperature upstairs. You can accomplish the same thing by getting a cheap thermometer and finding out what set temperature you need downstairs to reach the desired temperature upstairs.
No, I completely understand wanting to monitor humidity and that is the perfect thing to do-I would just recommend a digital one. You can find them pretty cheap on Amazon. I use these. Bonus is you can monitor ambients too. Haha.
I use the AcuRite 00613 Indoor Humidity Monitor as a hygrometer and thermometer. I've used this for about 3 months now and have no complaints about it.
I had humidity issues before we changed our doors and windows. I purchased a cheap humidity gauge on Amazon and a $50 dehumidifier that I would plug in near the piano and turn on whenever it got too high. Kept everything in that area of the house even.
Oh, and a temperature / relative humidity meter, particularly one that keeps track of the min/max in the last day or so. I use this one, so do a lot of other people; you'll start spotting them in tent pictures.
It's magnetic, so you can also attach it to a tent pole if you need floor space.
It's really hard to say without being there. One thing that could help is getting a cheap humidity gauge on Amazon and actually have a number to go by rather than feeling. It's a lot easier to judge your needs based on a number than by a feeling that only you can feel.
Typically 70 pint do a great job even in very humid conditions, but if you can afford it, it can't hurt to go for something bigger simply for the fact that it'll be less wear and tear on the machine since it won't be working as hard (theoretically)
You can pick up a tiny humidity monitor on Amazon for ~$10. I have this one, which is slightly nicer (and magnetic):
I had the air set to 20, and it did zip all for the humidity. It was just a disgusting feeling.
Get one of these first every floor
AcuRite 00613MB Humidity Monitor with Indoor Thermometer, Digital Hygrometer and Humidity Gauge Indicator [link]
But wait for them to drop in price, I paid $15 for each a couple yrs ago. I have 3 of these and they are great!
Do your research on a dehumidifier. Nova is the biggest POS going! That was my last one, and died just after 1yr. Research and read negative reviews like crazy. Most get similar total failure errors, or ice up constantly (rendering them totally useless), and other errors. It's really really bad.
I think I found a good brand and model, if you want it, let me know, and I'll go into the basement to get the info for you.
I run dehumidifier and installed a bathroom exhaust fan in my fish room (about 140g of water in a medium size bedroom). I'd recommend getting a humidity monitor too. Humidity over 60% will kill your drywall over time.
Yeah. I'd wait another 2-3 days then try again in her actual cage instead of moving her to feed.
Definitely get a hygrometer. I use this one from Amazon in my BP's cage and it works pretty well. I keep it on the cool side and it shows me humidity and cool side temps at a glance.
What else you need to do depends on the type of substrate you use. But you can't know for sure if what you're doing is good enough or too much without having a hygrometer.
That's not horrible. I suspect the humidity inside may be higher for some reason. Depending on the type of house it could be a damp crawlspace, an unvented bathroom that collects humidity, a plumbing issue, etc. A cheap hygrometer is useful for keeping an eye on the humidity. If you can get the humidity down I would think the bugs won't survive, even down to 50% is pretty dry. Much below 40% you may start to feel uncomfortably dry. Run fans. Run a dehumidifier if you can get one (but they do use a lot of power). Figure out the moisture issue. If it's a damp crawlspace, lay plastic over as much of the surface as possible.
Where I am if the humidity is much over 60% then mildew starts to form, and this is what leads to your bugs I think. But below that all is well. 40-50% is ideal, but it's hard to keep it below 55% most of the time.
My inlet to my tent is just two 6” PVC 90 degree Elbows glued together to make an “S” shape, seems to let in lots of air but no light.
My preference for my gauges are ones that record a 24 hour high and low, I attached a link to the one I use, seems fairly accurate.
You are most welcome!
I did forget to mention the humidex gage. I have 1 in the spare room (plant room), upstairs hall, downstairs in the livingroom, and in the basement. So far I'm getting over a yr with each battery. All mine are near identical in readings, so o think it's a good product. It doesnt match the humidifier though. Never trust the readings on the humidifier, as that's more so your settings, then the actual humidex. Always go by the humidex gage. I'm about to go to bed, so I hope that made sense as I'm beyond tired lol
AcuRite 00613B Indoor Humidity Monitor [link]
That's about right for a decent cooler and thermal paste. With custom water cooling I get within 2-4ºC of ambient at idle. You could also test your actual ambient temp with a thermometer next to your rig.
First thing to come to mind is, what’s the moisture level/humidity like in your apartment? Do you have central air? Running the a/c (hot or cold) could help de-humidify your space. Also, another option is to purchase a dehumidifier but they’re pretty pricey iirc. Maybe buy a humidity monitor to see where you’re at with it.
WOW that's a lot of water for a small bedroom. Is the door generally open (hopefully)? Does it seem humid in the room? I'm guessing that your other tanks all have glass lids. I had a bathroom fan installed in my medium size bedroom due to humidity issues (140g SW system in that room). I also run a dehumidifier in that room. It's a long-run kind of issue with the drywall being effected by the humidity. You may want to invest a few bucks in a humidity monitor for that room.
Mesh/net lids will not prevent evaporation. If you can't use the glass lids as-is, maybe just set it up with no lids and monitor your evaporation for a few weeks to see how much you're getting before investing in net lids. Don't forget that the evaporation rate will change with the seasons too (depending on where you live). For example, I'm in the northeast US, so winter will increase my evaporation rates.
You could try blacking out the sides of the aquarium. Also ps you probably should change your humidity gauge to something like this [link]. If your snake climbs up on it (which it most likely will) it could unstick and get stuck to your snake and be a huge pain.
I would highly recommend a hygrometer to check humidity in different spots in your basement. I've been using a pair of these on opposite ends of the basement:
I like the 24hr low/high humidity readout since you can map it out a bit better that way. Before buying a dehumidifier, I'd map out a couple of days of humidity in your basement so you know what you're up against. This way you're not over/under buying on the dehumidifier specs.
Another option, if you have it, is to run your AC longer/colder in the affected space since AC is mostly dehumidification with a bit of cooling. Depending on your HVAC setup, house setup, and general preferences for temp, this may or may not help.
In terms of model/features, I have been quite happy with my Frigidaire 70 pint 2 speed (warranty backed Electrolux in Canada). Its a bit on the noisier end of large dehumidifiers when its at high fan speed, but it works extremely well. There's a hose hookup for gravity drain, but if you need to get it up and out, you'll need one with a built-in pump.
I put mine on the opposite side of the room from my guitars. You want them to be in a space with the right humidity range, but it's not good to have moist air blowing directly on them. I'd recommend getting one of these so you know the exact humidity of the room. It's best to keep it between 40% - 50%.
Do you have one of these? I love this one and it displays the high and low temps over the past 24 hours so I can see I'm the morning what was going on temp wise overnight. AcuRite 00613 Humidity Monitor with Indoor Thermometer, Digital Hygrometer and Humidity Gauge Indicator [link]
Awesome thanks man! I guess I’ll just use one of these I have already, they seem very similar, no ?
AcuRite 00613 Humidity Monitor with Indoor Thermometer, Digital Hygrometer and Humidity Gauge Indicator [link]
The bedding is damp.
This is what I use to measure humidity: [link]
The water bowl is on the cold end.
One thing that may or may not be a factor is the tub is larger than it should be. I'm compensating for that by having more hides and objects, but maybe the size affects the humidity.
> RH monitors
the ones I prefer are expensive nowadays so I just use the inexpensive big clunky tent ones now like these. There are a lot on new smaller ones out there but I like the accuracy of these and I already have them around
If you can pickup one of those cheap temp and humidity monitors, something like this .
That will give you a good idea of humidity build up in there as well temps when lights are on/off.
They look great man! I have a similar grow 400w/FFOF/8 days old. I was having humidity issues as I am in the dry southwest US. I solved them by hanging a moist towel in my tent and placing my inline fan on a timer set to run 15 mins every 2 hours. This boosted my humidity from from 25~% to 60~%. My plants have responded well to it. Just my own experience with the dryness in my area. Get yourself a hygrometer/thermometer in there [link]
Good advice. Also bring along a small hygrometer, to see what happens to the relative humidity inside the house.
I never knew this was a thing, till I moved into a rental house this year. After rains everything felt wet. We bought a hygrometer and found relative humidity goes to 75-80% when it rains due to moisture seepage/sealing issues with the house. Needless to say, I'll be moving out when my lease expires.
Here is one for ten bucks: [link]
About to purchase equipment for my first grow as well. I don't have a lot of experience but I've heard cal mag is a very good thing to have around. Might not be bad to also invest in a decent cheap humidity monitor/thermometer [link] for inside of the tent as well.
Here you go! [link] I use these for my geckos. You can also buy them at hardware stores (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc) for a similar price.
Cresties are pretty hardy! As long as your temperature reliably sits in that range and your humidity spikes once or twice a day, you'll be fine.
Definitely ditch those "bites", geckos don't eat or need pellet type foods anyway. Repashy is fine and so is Pangea, they are both the most well known, reliable and tested brands. I wouldn't use anything else as a staple, though it definitely dosen't hurt to rotate different flavors and see what your gecko likes best! You can supplement with dusted crickets or dubia roaches or an occasional fresh fruit, but your gecko should get all their necessary nutrients from the main diet.
jbscresties.com and the related youtube channel is an excellent resource for new keepers if you want more things to check out!
Also, I put one of these in all my reptiles homes as well. They are very accurate, and very affordable, if you don't already have a decent humidity sensor. AcuRite 00613 Indoor Humidity Monitor [link]
I bought this thing but haven't opened it and put it in my tub because I'm not really sure about what optimal humidity levels should be and the only other grow I did was smaller and I used cakes and misted daily. The top layer of sub looks dry in the mornings.
Could you tell me a little more about what I can shoot for with humidity?
Haha I hear ya! After I buy all this stuff I'm going to research my strains/methods/techniques while it's being delivered...I was only joking about a month of research!! Haha.
I might have worded it wrong but there will actually be 2 plants... 1 per bucket (2 total buckets)
Our tent is 4 weet wide and only 5 feet tall and 2 feet deep. Sounds like a large dresser to me, is that small?? Each bucket is a foot wide... We do plan on expanding to more lights, but for this first grow I was thinking of "getting my feet wet" and figuring out what we like, then getting more lights.
I actually hadn't thought about the changing the water in the bucket outside of removing the lid and swapping out the nutrient water once a week when the lights not on...right/wrong?
Is there a difference between a hygrometer and a humidity monitor such as this ? Because I have this. And good call on the light timer! Thank you.
philharmonics, Britannias, private mints.
On the bright side those are not coins with high premiums nor premium appreciation so it will not cost you much at all when you go to sell :)
In general the lower premium coins are more likely to milkspot.
I would not worry about it too much but I would check out the environment in your safe with a Humidity Monitor
how hot does it get? I keep this little temperature gauge in my ferrets room to make sure it stays under 80 degrees. [link] From what I understand, above 80 is when it gets uncomfortable for them and above 90 is dangerous.
Great! glad he's doing better. Definitely good to get him away from humidity, my beardie does not drink at all (even if I wanted him too haha). Those temps sound fine for an adult, if humidity is an issue I would grab a digital hygrometer from amazon or wherever and make sure they stay in the desert range, ~25-55% and ~35% avg. If your humidity levels are consistently above 50% that is a bit high, if its consistently above 60% that's a problem (risk of respiratory infection). With no water source (or other external humidity/vapor sources) and an incandescent light it should be fine.
Pressure, maybe. Not dryness. I bought two of these and keep one on my nightstand (our bedroom has quite a bit of temperature variance) and one on my desk at work. Humidity at both places has been >25% for the past 24 hours.
I don't know. I got 5 hours of sleep over 48 hours this weekend and still feel sleep deprived and keep having dizzy spells, so it might be related to that? Can you even get a nosebleed from lack of sleep?
Buy a cheap humidity sensor to let you see residual moisture after your exhaust fan turns off. Assuming the fan exhausts properly to the outside it may just not be running long enough to remove moisture. Included link to a cheap humidity sensor.
AcuRite 00613A1 Indoor Humidity Monitor [link]
I keep my lab in a ~650 square foot detached garage that doubles as my home office. Concrete slab floor, wood siding, no insulation, 16' wide door. Last January the outside temps went as low as 7F. This winter so far has seen lows 20s outside and I put a temperature monitor on my rack over the summer so I know it hasn't gone below 44F.
Monitor the conditions of the room but it ought to be just fine.
considering it's a nest, ill assume forced air.
so first things first, you need to balance your HVAC. step 1 is to find and make sure your dampers are full open. make note of what duct goes to what section of the house.
go get cheap temp sensors from amazon. the accurite is what i use and it's pretty accurate.
put one of these in each room about the same height as a light switch, but away from windows and vents.
wait a couple of days, and take readings from each room at varying times of the day in order to catch readings with solar heat. this will let you know what rooms are warmer or cooler, and put a pattern together.
if the warm rooms are all in the front of the house and cool in the rear, go to your dampers and start to slowly close the damper to that section of the house. wait a few hours and you should start to see those rooms cool and the other rooms warm up. you can do the same thing on a room by room basis with the floor dampers as well.
the idea is to use this process to get the temperatures of the rooms within a degree or two (or three) of each other. don't worry about what the nest says, just try to equalize the room temps.
once you get the room temps equalized, you can start to adjust the Nest to see where you need to be. my home as an example - the Nest lives between 70 and 73, which keeps the rooms in my home between 68-72.
do this, and you wont need the temp sensors to heat/cool on a room by room basis. the accurite thermometer i linked to is like $10, so you can grab a handful of them for the price of one everlast.
Small note, my Humidity Monitor also has this 'indoor humidity' section where even at 83F / 30%RH it says that my 'indoor humidity' is "high" so I think I am actually OK now.
Worried about my temps a little as I plan to add some side lights in the next weeks. If I want to be @ or under 80F when I switch to flowering.
You can still use the internal temperature settings of the fridge but don't expect it to have as small of tolerances. If you want to see how much it could swing, I suggest buying a thermometer like this one: [link]
Haven't had such a problem, yet. I was actually concerned it wasn't getting hot enough for her. Exactly how do you measure the temperature of the heating pad? I have a temperature/humidity gauge in her tank, this one.
get one of these : [link]
try not to let your indoor RH get above 50-60%, more than that and you run the risk or rusting metal and possible mold growth.
Looks good - but you should replace that hygrometer.
I have a bunch of these and they are all pretty accurate when compared to each other. So I've had good experiences with them. YMMV of course.
They are passive intake. You'll want to open these up when your light is on. You need to exchange air in your tent. If you have a fan hooked up to your filter that is pulling air out of your tent you need somewhere for new air to come in. That's what these are for.
Also get a hygrometer. 10$ on Amazon and it's totally worth it.
I use one of these for each of my snakes. My friend mounted it on the bottom in front, so I'm not sure if there's a probe, but it works great and reads both temp and humidity.
As the other guys have said get a gauge to measure your humidity. I would recommend one like this. It is helpful to have it tell you the daily high and low values as well as the temperature.
Once you know if your dehumidifier is working you can decide about getting a new one. It would be good to check the data plate on your dehumidifier, and note the power draw (and if it has it, the water produced per hour). A new unit may be more power efficient, but may not be worth replacing a working appliance for a energy savings.
It sounds to me like the cold weather is probably your issue. Do you have a thermometer/Hygrometer that shows your highest and lowest temps? That will help pinpoint the issue as you can see what the temp gets down to at night. I would recommend getting one like this.
It is a digital one. I think I got it from amazon.
One thing to consider, it might not matter whether your current thermometer is inaccurate as long as it is inaccurate by the same amount everywhere.
If you're looking for a really simple solution, you can just buy a cheap digital humidity/temperature sensor and then point a webcam at it. I like these $10 sensors on Amazon that show the daily high/low readings. This won't help you automate an alert system, but if your heat goes out, it's not like your house would go below freezing instantly. You would reasonably have a few days or hours depending on what temp you plan to hold it at. Plus, reasonably, the webcam would give you an added sense of security if you have it pointed towards the door or something too.
I have this $8 one from Amazon for household use. I’ll definitely be ordering a second one to monitor the temperature in the baby’s room!
Congrats on your new baby!
High 70s-80s for cool side is fine. You’ll want your basking temps to be between 100-110, closer to 110 for a juvenile. If your bulb is only 75w you could look into upgrading to a 100w basking bulb, or I’ve heard a lot of people have good luck buying a 90w halogen flood light and using a dimmer with it to tone down heat output as needed, as apparently they tend to run a bit on the hotter side.
You’re definitely going to want to remove the heat pad ASAP. Beardies have no way to sense temperature on their stomachs, so while it might not be too hot to your hand for a moment, after hours of laying on the hit surface it poses a serious burn risk.
To better gauge your temps, I’d recommend getting a digital thermometer/hygrometer to keep mounted inside your tank to monitor ambient temperatures and humidity. You’ll want humidity to be around 30%. I have this one, and it seems to be working like a dream!
AcuRite 00613 Humidity Monitor with Indoor Thermometer, Digital Hygrometer and Humidity Gauge Indicator [link]
I also would suggest you invest in an IR Temperature gun, so you can keep track of specific basking surfaces on both the warm and cool sides of the tank. I have this one, but a quick search on Amazon will give you a ton of options.
Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~1022℉ (-50℃～550℃), Yellow and Black [link]
After you upgrade to these guys, I’d honestly recommend either trying to return the dial thermometer or just throwing it away. The guy can swear to the moon and back that it’s accurate, but at the end of the day a dial is a dial and it can still be way way off.
For feeding, it’s recommended that for little guys you feed them as many appropriately sized bugs they want to eat within a 10-15 min period, 3 times a day. You should also always have a salad offered. The best base greens from what I’ve seen are Mustard, Turnip, Collard, or Dandelion Greens. There’s some really great lists out there on what greens are good and the best for your dragon, here’s one that I tend to go by.
I’d also suggest cutting out mealworms. Their exoskeletons are very very tough compared to some other bugs, and they run a high enough risk of impaction chance that to me it’s not even worth trying to feed them as a treat. Crickets are a good staple, I’d also look into dubias, silkworms, and calciworms (also called nutrigrubs or black soldier fly larva).
They do take some time to settle into their new routine and homes, so if he’s not wanting to eat too much for the first week or two it really shouldn’t be too much of a concern. Also don’t be discouraged if your guy doesn’t want to eat the salads you offer at first. Babies are picky about their greens since their diet is roughly 80% bugs when they’re under 6 months, but it’s important to always have it offered in case they do want to pick at it!
Baths are also important, especially when they’re so young, and should be offered every 2-3 days, but it’s not uncommon to give a juvenile one every day since the younger they are the more often they tend to shed!
You might check the humidity in your hedgehogs room. If it's too dry, this can cause skin irritation and dryness. If that's the case, buy a small humidifier. This is what I use to keep an eye on the whole room temp and humidity of my office which is where my baby stays https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is a pretty good hydrometer
although i don't know why you'd want to measure the specific gravity of something. i'd rather use a hygrometer to measure humidity
pet store hygrometers aren't the greatest. amazon people who buy cannabis stuff seem to prefer this
Your humidity is likely too high. Either get a good one that you don't have to empty (I have a hose on mine going to a floor drain in my basement) or maybe go with an AC unit.
Get a cheap hygrometer, like this one https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-Humidity-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Indicator/dp/B0013BKDO8 and check your humidity level and that will confirm whether that's the problem.
For testing humidity, a hygrometer is the tool. We keep one of these exact devices around since its battery operated. Bought it 3 years ago, and its still running on the included battery.
Think the basement is moist? I'll throw that down there to check, something off in the garage, move it over, check it out. Think your thermostat is acting up and not working? Can use that to double check. Don't need it for two years? Sits in a drawer lol.
oh thats just the Generic Thermometer everyone uses off amazon XD
calatheas are so picky! thankfully mine is thriving and i'll share some of my experiences.
first to address your questions: when my calathea medallion puts out new leaves, the coloring looks just like the mature leaves, so the yellowing is definitely a sign of a water/humidity imbalance.
also, i'm not sure how effective pebble trays are with increasing the humidity. Misting the leaves can help, but i prefer to use a room humidifier, which i'll go into below.
when i purchased my calathea, i repotted it within the first week in well draining succulent/cactus mix. it took some time for it to adjust, and some of the established leaves started to crisp on the edges. i did some research, and i learned a couple things about calatheas.
They like to be in moist soil. Because the cactus mix is drains really well, the soil dries out quicker than typical potting mix. I started watering with distilled water once a day, but even the new leaves were starting to get crispy edges, so I bumped it up to twice a day.
They also do well in humid conditions. I purchased a hygrometer and measured the relative humidity in my room. It turns out to be 30% which is way too low for calatheas and indoor plants in general. So, i purchased a room humidifier and I try to keep it between 40% and 60% rh. just be careful because fungal and mold can develop in these kinds of conditions.
when I water my plants, i try not to get the leaves wet and i keep my plant shelves dry.
I also highly recommend grow lights! I have really good experiences with these and these.
and I keep it on about 15 hours a day.
I know this is a lot of work and set up, but I like to pamper my plants, and my calathea is really happy, the amount of leaves has doubled in just two months! good luck and let me know if you have any questions!
This is the hygrometer I have. [link]
hmmm, looks like they germinated fine, but knowing exactly what caused this i cant say. Could be disease like mold in the soil possibly, it could be low temperatures (seedlings need a little heat to sprout as well as germanate, or at least not cold temps) it could also be over or under watering, you want to give them each a good bit of water and then not water them till they've sprouted and the soil dries up a bit. Lighting will not matter at this stage, it is irrelevant until the seeds have sprouted and turned green. In fact, you should keep them out of all light until they have sprouted and have any green on them. My guess as to how you can successfully sprout your seeds next time is to take all of these facts into account, and also keep them nice and humid. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i like to use these meters, you can also find smaller, cheaper ones that do the job as well. I'd also look up a humidity dome and get one of those, if not you could just put sandwich bags over the plants to raise their humidity.
https://imgur.com/a/RKby85k here are a few photos too i like to keep for reference, for deficiencies and also the ideal environmental factors for each stage of growth. The last one in particular should be useful for you, but i would save them all for the future
This is the Acurite I use. Also get a UTH (Under Tank heater) belly heat is important for digestion. And remember to put a probe on it so it doesn't overheat and hurt your python.
It's definitely humidity. Get this stuff:
Get yourself one or two of these high/low recording table top type digital thermometers to help adjust the valves in each room. You can then get a feel for the actual range in each room over time with different settings. Humidity should be somewhere between 30%-40% and water (not) running down the inside windows for best comfort.
Also the oil filled radiator space heaters were popular when I was involved in selling them.
This will tell you exactly what your space heater is costing you for extra heat.
Sure! The Abode sensor can be found here. I also use a standalone AcuRite sensor just for comparison purposes.
Pick up temp/humidity gauge:
AcuRite 00613 Indoor Humidity Monitor [link]
And get some ph stuff:
General Hydroponics pH Control Kit [link]
You can use the ph tester drops instead of a ph meter.
Then once you know your environment you can adjust what you need to adjust. Later down the line get stronger lights. And then add mammoth p and recharge.
Get yourself a humidity monitor. This is the one I use. This is for your bedroom, not the machine. Generally around 30-40% is ideal.
My doctor told me, and I've found it to be true, that my mouth only dries out when I sleep with my mouth open. You may need a chin strap to keep your mouth closed. Also, before bed you can use a dry mouth mouthwash like Biotene. You can also use a nasal saline gel like Ayr to moisten your nasal passages if they feel dry.
I have the same Resmed model and there is no way you should be going through a full tank on 4. When mine is on 4 I use less than half the tank. It may just be you're going through so much because your mouth is open, so it's using more water because you're using more air.
If your machine or tubing/mask is new it might have a slight smell. I've found mine goes away within a night or two. If not, you can clean everything with a solution like this according to the directions. Again, empty it in the morning and wipe it dry. Use distilled water, maybe if you're using tap water there's something in it that's making it smell bad. Distilled water is at the grocery store, usually a gallon for a dollar. I don't believe the machine can detect when the water is empty, no, so it won't auto-shutoff the humidifier.
This is what I use: [link]
Thanks for the reply. I'm looking for something less involved, however. I'm not a meteorologist; just looking for something passive that could mainly tell me what the dew point is, as I've been reading that relative humidity is not the best measure for how comfortable one feels in a room. Are there any electric types that you'd recommend? This is what I currently have and was looking at something like this or this.
I use this one, along with the humidistat that controls my chamber.
Grab one of these: AcuRite 00613 Indoor Humidity Monitor [link]
You need a digital thermometer/hygrometer, those stick on ones are not only dangerous (if they fall off and get stuck, there was a corn snake that died not that long ago over on either r/reptiles or r/snakes because it got stuck and tore him open), but they're useless in terms of accuracy to even the slightest amount. Something like this: [link] is good. I'm pretty sure these are the ones I have, just branded with pangea instead of the other brand they used to have. Otherwise, something like this: [link] I find the probes are easier (and there are a wide variety under 10 dollars) for crested gecko terrariums since there's less room, but the digital household ones work just fine too if you situation it in there correctly.
A dedicated hide (maybe you have something in that back corner, but I can't see?) would also be a good idea. Right now there's nothing very solid for your gecko to climb on (but you've already pointed that out).
Hope this helps.
Get yourself a cheap humidity meter and see where you're at.
Something like this:
You just need something to measure your temp and humidity.
>Thermometer probes that are placed within the hides to regulate the two UTH
do you mean thermo*stat* probes? because thermo*meters* don't regulate anything.
>I'll give the half log hide to my beardy and get another hide for her, (any suggestions?)
the exact same cave hide you have on the other side, if it is indeed the right size. the only difference between the hides should be the temperature.
>As for digital thermometers, which do you suggest?
i use acurite thermometer/hygrometer combos to monitor ambient temperature and humidity, and a handheld infrared thermometer to spot check temperatures.
Missing a temp / humidity gauge like this The only thing about that one is it isnt waterproof and you have to open the bucket to look so i switched to this
[link] . Is this what you are talking about?
Should have went digital plus you get humidity [link]
Can't help you with a humidor as i don't own one my self (i use an air tight tupperdor), but the digital hygrometer i use is this one
Mine is -3% off from perfect calibration, but there is no fluctuations in it's calibrations so far. I paid $10 with S&H. I'm happy with it, no complaints about it yet.
I've heard this one is good too , but i don't personally own it so i can't attest to it's performance.
All of this looks fantastic. I'd get one of these just to help monitor the temp and humidity. It will help you adjust minor things to help or if you have an issue it's very easy to see if either of those are the culprit. It's $10 insurance basically. This is a neat and cheap water thermometer, and you shouldn't need one per bucket. Just put one in any of the buckets and the temp should be the same for all the buckets, give or take a couple points of a degree I'd imagine. Again, a cheap piece of insurance.
Humidity gauge as in this: [link]
I second acurite... I got this from amazon and it works great.
If everything you measure is correct, condensation means that the windows are below the dew point 5C - which would be possible since it's -8C outside, but seems unlikely since you said you had (older?) double glazing. I think your humidity is probably much higher.
Could your hygrometer or your thermometer be out of whack? You can get combined digital ones for cheap.