I wanted to control my 240v AC unit too, ended up buying this:
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nDbYAbHW5DMFN
I got an extension cord that would work for my AC unit and spliced in the switch. You could splice it into the cord from the AC if you want to.
Worked fantastic last summer.
To answer your post this can be wired in between your breaker and outlet, it monitors energy usage, and can be remotely controlled via ZWave however to poll data from this device will require a ZWave compatible smart hub etc.
They're fairly easy to install I have one on my server rack.
Instructions were fairly thorough and if you have an electrician friend or family member they'd be more than happy to help you install it I'm sure it only took me about 10-15 minutes
It's rated for use in up to 40A circuits can easily handle less.
Simply make sure to follow code for wire gauge in the us it's 10gauge copper for 30A
Be aware that that's an old style 30 amp outlet two hots one neutral no ground, if you do choose to hire an electrician they may require you to bring it up to code which is a four-prong 30-amp outlet which adds a ground connection and may require you to get a different power cable for your dryer readily available at most home depot/lowes etc.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_m3eAFbDH7ET9J
Interesting challenge. No remote, everything appears to be hard wired. I think it is 240VAC and about 20A.
If you set it on maximum cold, and set the fan speed to what you want, and UNPLUGGED the unit... when you plugged it back in, does it come back to maximum cold, and your original fan speed?
If so, something like this might work;
https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Plus-Controller-Electricity-Consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
Some people have gas dryers, like I do. I'm using aeotec smart switches for my dryer and washer. If you're all electric, you could also use a vibration sensor as an alternative, but aeotec also makes one for 220v outlets as well: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
Aeotec heavy duty switch. My dryer in the us is connected to that. It’s a z-wave 240v switch that measures power usage.
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/Off Controller, 40 amps. Electricity Consumption & Monitoring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
You have to do some inline wiring, but:
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/Off Controller, 40 amps. Electricity Consumption & Monitoring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZRXZZ28R6TM4WV3JKWN5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had that same timer switch. I replaced it with an aotec z wave switch
It's 120 or 240 volt capable. 40 amp. And is controlled via z wave. So you need a hub. I scheduled it in my hub (home assistant) and can also turn it on or off at will from the app.
There are quite a few discussions of the topic on this r/Sauna. I haven't yet done this, so it is probably worth searching hose out. Seems like The Aerotec heavy duty smart switch is commonly suggested -- It requires a Z-wave controller though.. Probably any 220V control box similar to that would work, so long as it handles the amperage of your heater.
If you use zwave at all, you can use this smart switch for your dryer. It is rated up to 40 amps. It is rather expensive so I’m not sure if you’re willing to spend that much money to both monitor and control the power to your dryer.
Another option is to use a Shelly EM to monitor power going to the dryer on the breaker panel side of things. This is the cheaper method, but you can’t turn on/off your dryer remotely.
You have to go to the dryer to get your clothes out so you’ll be turning off the dryer manually anyways.
Is your entire property on the same electric panel? Or branched from a main panel that you could reach via Zwave? I use this for something similar and works great:
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HQSLFb47HVMSN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You could get this thing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_puVKFb5Q0CFP2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And appropriate cable/plug ends and make your own smart extension codt for the AC.
Needs a zwave network, so if you don't have one you'd need to set one up.
If its not a rental I'd just consider a new unit. You're probably paying more than you need to in electricity.
This is the one I found for $100, just can’t justify the price for this use. Thought about getting a 40A contactor and controlling with a Sonoff basic.
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_Yy5BFbMVJGCNS
That outlet is a 240v 20 Amp outlet (NEMA 6-20).
Here's a Z-Wave device that can handle it: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
You would just need to get a short NEMA 6-20 extension cord, cut it in half, and wire it to the L1 and L2 terminals, I believe. One Amazon reviewer mentions that it works perfectly with a 240, no-neutral setup.
I'm using an aeotec heavy duty one for my dryer. You do have to wire it into the lead though ( I bought an additional lead and cut that one). Works really well for me in home assistant.
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
There are also other zwave plugs. Attaching a link to a 40a plug. Should give you more than enough head room on the switch.
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LFq4Db4TJG0YD
Wemo seems to be limited to 120v. I'm sure it's a pleasant experience using Wemo though!
Closest substitute I've found is this switch from Aeotec. Which, although it's sleek enough to be mounted to the back of the machine, requires a smart hub - so it'd be a bit of an investment
I'm thinking of installing this heavy duty smart switch from Aeotec. It tracks energy usage and would allow me the scheduling / other control I desire. Only problem is I'd have to get a smart home hub and that's a whole other can of worms. A man can only have so many hobbies haha
There are z-wave ones such as this - obviously depends on your hub: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBIRF5W/
I have one on my water heater and it works great. Not sure about something wifi if that's what you are asking...I've not seen one.
This? It is a bit pricey but may be what I need. Do you basically install it midway on the cable by directly wiring it in? I've never used anything like that but could probably figure it out. Gas is also an option in this home, so we might just look at gas dryers for this and other reasons. Two 110v connected outlets are much cheaper than that one 220v.
Thanks for your other input, too. That's pretty much what I was thinking. If it was a $50 difference to buy the units I wanted with connectivity added in, that would be one thing, but I suspect it would be a much higher difference and only found in units that I wouldn't otherwise be interested in.
Amazon just recommended this to me: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523717827&sr=8-2&keywords=aeotec+heavy+duty+smart+switch&dpID=41F5PI7mPCL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You'de have to cut the cable and put it inline, but it's designed for high amperage and high voltage.
This is the one I'm most inclined towards. Was hoping there were others who have tried to control water heaters, HVAC systems or larger appliances with some type of smart switch, and pick their brain a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-ZW078-A-Z-Wave-Appliance/dp/B00MBIRF5W
So I am just starting out in this wonderful world Home Automation and have kind of an obscure idea, but don't quite know how to get this to work.
I just purchased a SmartThings Hub, a 240v switch, an Ecobee 4 thermostat, and some window contact sensors. I unfortunately don't have Central AC, but there is a rather large window unit upstairs that I want to turn on if the windows are closed and the the indoor temperature is above 74.
Is it possible to build an applet within the IFTTT Platform that will look at SmartThings to see if the windows are closed AND check the indoor temperature before turning on the 240v switch?
If I'm not asking in the correct place please point me to where I should be asking this. Any help is appreciated!
I would like to run all the other equipment except the heater at the same time (chlorinator and pump) and only have the heater off but in pool heat mode with a set temp so when powered with a switch it turns on and begins to heat. I have a inline thermostat that monitors the water temp going to the heater to gauge the temp.
From the panel it goes into this switch:
https://www.amazon.ca/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W
Which ties into a home automation platform for on and off times. I would also like to use the same style of switch for the heater so on a swim day I can check the temp and fire up the heater from work to pre-heat the pool so it is ready to go when I get home (father of young impatient kids who don't like swimming in cold water)
There is a disconnect outside.
Current flow
240V Panel --> IN Smart Switch OUT --> IN Disconnect Switch OUT --> IN chlorinator OUT ---> IN Heater OUT --> PUMP
Hope this is more helpful.
It sounds like the Aeon Labs' Heavy Duty Smart Switch is in order.
It's dedicated to this kind of work and is built upon 500 series Z-Wave, something potentially more relevant to the odd installation location where such tech might be installed (e.g. potentially weak signal caused by the boiler). I couldn't say whether it works with Wink or not, though it does use standard Z-Wave command classes so should. It's more likely to work (or at least be integrated in the near term) versus discontinued items such as the Intermatic.
Just to give people a quick link to another discussion. https://www.reddit.com/r/Sauna/comments/le2hkp/are\_remote\_controlledsmart\_sauna\_heaters\_a\_thing/
I got this product to do exactly what the OP wants on my Almost Heaven barrel sauna with a Harvia heater. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/Off Controller, 40 amps. Electricity Consumption & Monitoring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3MVZZT619G5V43RKBRK9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
how high of a draw? aeotec makes a 40a 240v monitoring switch (https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W) and ge makes one as well (https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0) and leviton makes a zwave switch that does 15a (https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-ZW15R-1BW-Decora-Tamper-Resistant-Technology/dp/B08GQLBXTX)
I haven't seen one with a plug. But you could either hardwire the appliance, or rewire the plug and put this before it.
Something like this?
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fFtyFbN7EAS7
Or this?
Migro Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Outlet Box, Heavy Duty 50A Resistive 120VAC 40A 5HP Wireless Pump Control Timer Switch, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT UL Listed https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07THD8VBN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OItyFbNQ2F4XA
It's a little expensive, but you could buy this, pick up 4' of wire, and wire in a female plug on one side and male on the other, and basically have this in-line for the AC.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nrEhFbY4JTV6X
I have this guy on my water heater: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBIRF5W/
These are two possible solutions
This one? https://smile.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Plus-Controller-Electricity-Consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
That one is a relay. It don't think it would work for OP since it requires a neutral to get 120V for the controller. OP lives in Indonesia where they get straight 230V (Yes, 230).
A quality 15-amp smart switch should be OK to use with that heater since almost all the load is resistive. The continuous 80% rating of a 15-amp switch would be 12 amps, just above the 11.9 amp rating of the heater (which is probably why they rated the heater and vent together being 12.1 amp).
But if you want to be real safe, and since you want to use Z-wave, you could use an Aeotec 40-amp smart switch, which is intended to be hard wired and has power monitoring.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
There are 240v 30a smart switches (such as the 40a Aeotec one) but using one is certainly not an appropriate way to control an AC unit.
Here is a 40 amp smart switch, but for info only, do not use on AC!:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
You can use this if you're ok with hooking it up.
I've never seen a 240vac smart outlet but there are several Z-wave 240vac smart switches which can either be hardwired to the equipment or hardwired to a surface-mount 240vac outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
https://www.amazon.com/120-277VAC-Electric-Compatible-Certified-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0
This also works really well: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
I installed one of those to control a pool pump for a friend about 2 weeks ago. You do need a Z-Wave hub to control it but it's completely local control... no need to mess with cloud services (like Tuya) to control it.
That's 240v 15a. You could use something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
Since this is an electric dryer there are no smart high-wattage 240VAC power-monitoring plugs.
But there is a Z-wave switch with power monitoring for 240VAC at 40 amps; but since it is not a plug it would require wiring into the dryer's power cord. This can be interfaced to any Z-Wave hub that can then send a notification.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
The ones I see are really expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W Z-Wave 40A 220V Smart Relay
I think we need more by way of details vis-a-vis your setup. If you are in the US, and all your timer controller does is provide power to the pump, you can replace the timer controller with a 220V z-wave switch like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Required-Works-SmartThings-14285/dp/B00YTCZZF0/
Both of these can handle 110-277VAC. And up to 40Amps. Both of them work with Hubitat, and you can setup schedules in Hubitat for when the switch should be on and off.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBIRF5W/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=&psc=1 was the one someone suggested. You need a z-wave hub for that one though. I think there are wifi and zigbee options as well -- you want to make sure it is rated for enough current though..
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
---|---|---|---|
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home… | - | - | 4.3/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
The homeowner provided them. I believe this is the link https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
The homeowner provided them I think this is the link https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
AFAIK there aren't any outlets. You can use a heavy-duty switch (example: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBIRF5W/) or a clamp-on meter (example: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW095-ZW095/dp/B00XD8WZX6/).
There are also things like Sense that can detect appliances when installed on your main electric lines.
That is what I'm going to use as a cost effective kwh meter. Just going to put it in line with the panels.
I’m looking at a similar project with the same plug and power requirements https://reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/njxsyc/smart_plug_for_240v_20a_ac/
This plug can be spliced into the existing AC cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JHHFJMT649AJZB5CPWNH
If you don’t want to splice the cable, you can get an extension cord and wire the switch into that https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08182Y4SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YTHC7X4XWA32Z88JT6XG
Alternately, since now we’re looking at a bit of money and some light electrical work, you could look to see if there are alternate ways to control the AC. Some have mentioned an IR remote, which you can control with an IR blaster. I don’t have those, but if you do, it would be pretty simple.
I’m currently looking at external thermostat controls for mine.
There's the Aeotec heavy duty one: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
You don't say how big your stall heaters are. If they are hard wired 240v, I use these on our well pump and water heater. I really like them because we have a scene that shuts everything down when I leave my cabin, but I can monitor power draw on each appliance that they are on: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_Ok.ZFbD3AE5WQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For less than 15a space heaters, I use dongles like these (aotec or zoos, I have several). They both switch up to 15a and have real time power monitoring. It's nice for space heaters, because a switch just tells you if it's on. The power metering tells you if it's actually heating. At least in a Vera, there are plug ins that will log the usage and you can tell if it never shuts off, etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_uk.ZFbSR0JY4P These are only rated for dry areas/inside though. I do use them in unheated garages, but not exposed to elements.
You can also get low voltage/current relays and just use them to trigger contactors for large loads, but you usually lose load monitoring on those.
There is a HomeSeer group on Reddit but it's pretty sleepy. A better place to get ideas and interact with HomeSeer folks would be our own forum.
As for your specific situation, you'll need a switch to control the under floor heating and you'll need a temperature sensor in the bathroom. Once you have those installed, you'll need to create 2 automations (we call them 'events'); 1 to turn the floors on and one to turn the floors off. Each event will trigger on the temperature you designate.
If you're in the US or Canada, this switch works well with our systems and supports loads up to 40 amps. There are a lot of options available for temperature sensors but most of them are battery operated... so you'll need to change batteries at some point. This one is a little bigger but can be used with a line-powered adapter.
Aeotec makes a 220v z-wave monitor (amazon link)
Best I can do is 30A @ 240V, with the appropriate UL-listed relay: https://www.functionaldevices.com/products/building-automation/relays/ - RIB01P30
These relays are rated for use in plenums and.. other stuff. You can get relays/contactors rated for 50 or 60A but you'd have to build a suitable fire-proof enclosure and stuff.
just gotta figure out how to connect the wires together in a way that contains any electrical fires, doesn't cause a fire, doesn't shock anyone, and is generally safe..
​
As far as commercial products go: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W 40A 220V z-wave thing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082L6HHK6/ref=dp_prsubs_3 - 60A z-wave thing (contactor is rated for 400V, but the control board runs off 120V)..
You can't do it with that time clock, since the clock motor is powered by 240V and the action of the clock rotating triggers the mechanical switch to open and close. There is no place to connect a low voltage control signal to the clock. Clocks like this should be retired anyway.
What you need is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W - it will be cheaper and safer than custom building a controller.
I agree with the above. Maybe this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ but not sure if it's best for this application
>https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
Have the 2nd one and worked great to control with a high voltage AC wall unit.
I have this one on my water heater, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
I've used one of these for monitoring my dryer, but you do have to wire it in vs just plugging into it:
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
For an electric dryer, you need something that'll support 30A. itead doesn't make anything better than 16A/3500W
Your best bet, unless something has come out recently is either:
The heavy duty smart switch by aeotec: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W?sa-no-redirect=1
Or the aeotec Home Energy monitor. You would take your dryer cable, split it somewhere in the middle lengthwise a bit (i.e. you don't sever the cable, just separate the 3 individual wires inside - no need to break the insulation), figure out which one is your ground, neutral, and load, and place the clamps around neutral and load. My energy monitor gives me issues (low readings despite running full power), but others have found success.
This is how I do it:
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Wz.gBbE8TMNT9
And a hub.
These are designed for 220v and monitor energy usage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=asc_df_B00MBIRF5W5318399
electric? this is good for up to 40A
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
it would tell you the watts being pulled...
electric? this is good for up to 40A
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
it would tell you the watts being pulled...
I use this guy for my water heater: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
It's z-wave and should work with SmartThings.
No personal experience with it, but what about something like this?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
EDIT: I red gud...just noticed you're hoping for wifi. I'm not aware of anything like that.
Here is a discussion where a couple of options are discussed: https://community.smartthings.com/t/240v-20-amp-outlet-or-load-controller/25104 including instructions with photos of how a user wired up an Aeon Labs controller to his similar outlet for a dryer and how to get it setup in smart things.
Not as a plug.
There are relay-based solutions such as:
Yeah there's a few of them out there. This one is zwave plus:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L2BizbK40W8TB
If it's in the budget I would consider having the shutoff valve and the ability to cut power to the well pump. It does not take a lot of water to cause a lot of damage. Example: in my house the washing machine is in a finished space, If I were to detect a leak due to a blown hose there and simply cut the power to the well pump I would get at least 20 gallons of water into that room before the pressure in the tank would reduce enough to stop the flow. Conversely, having a shutoff valve would stop the flow almost immediately.
If you only have the budget for one, I would add the valve. The only failure mode that the power off protects you from that the valve doesn't is if the well bladder and tank were to both fail. In this case the leak would be upstream of the valve, and the pump would continually pump water into your basement. I had this happen to me once. Its sucks, but my understanding is that this is extremely rare. When I had the well people come out to fix it, they said that in 40+ years of digging wells they have never seen the bladder and tank both fail on a system. The problem is, that if you are not home to catch the problem, you could easily have hundreds of gallons of water pumped in. Luckily I was home. Although this failure may be rare, the cost of something like the module you link is extremely cheap insurance.
I am in the process of setting up my system right now. I have not settled on the electrical panel yet. The unit you posted may be overkill since it is rated for outdoor use. I have also been looking at this unit: Aeon Labs V3-26-AL001 It is rated at 40 Amps and also has power monitoring capabilities. So, if the pump is running more than usual it could indicate a leak somewhere where you don't have a sensor.
For the valve, I didn't want to fork up the $$$ for the Fortezz, but I was not impressed with the other options (i.e. LeakSmart, piggyback units...). I decided to roll my own using industrial actuated shutoff valves. I bought a Johnson Controls VA9203-AGA-2Z with a 1" valve as a new surplus item on ebay for $25. This unit has 10x the closing torque as the Fortrezz. It also has a spring return, so, if you lose power the unit will shut automatically. I plan on using a Z-wave relay to connect it to my SmartThings hub.
The type of wall unit A/C you are talking about is probably going to take as much as 10 amps, or 220v. So you do not need the most expensive switch available, but you do want something made by a reputable manufacturer. Those pure Chinese brands are kind of infamous for corners being cut inside them, both in the component selection and the design.
I don't know enough about the scene to find you the perfect match. But this is the kind of thing you would need : https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490119250&sr=8-1&keywords=z-wave+switch+240v
And you'd want to buy a metal box and mount the switch inside. And you'd need a neutral. Too much hassle, I think.
EDIT : Ok, I found out a way to solve your problem, but it sucks. It still requires you have 120v available at the outlet, and a big ass metal box full of gear. Basically you use the GE switch to supply 120v to the contactor, which needs to be in a locked box so you don't get shocked by the exposed terminals, and the contactor switches the power to the A/C.
EDIT2 : Ok, closest match so far :
Searching for "Z-wave contactor". Intermatic is a credible, major brand and this module has it all in one box.
You can put an Aeon Labs ZW078-A https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W
I use one of these on my Electric car charger and it works perfectly. Added bonus is it meters the power so you can report on how much heating the driveway is costing you
This isn't in wall, but this is what I use on a pool pump.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W
I also found this:
Seems promising!
This Aeotec Heavy Duty Appliance switch is the closest I've been able to find for this application. Sounds like it doesn't have enough current capacity for a standard american electric range, though.
hi guys, found this thread useful. Ive got a question im hoping you guys can help with. Im casing out home automation, the first use-case will be remote switching on of my pool pump/chlorinator PLUS heater. The heater is the curly one, it requires 40A. It seems i have two options: 1/ http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-ZW078-A-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W would be perfect, except that it requires a neutral wire. Not even sure what that means, but i gather i dont have it.... or... 2/ http://www.elkproducts.com/product-catalog/elk-9200-heavy-duty-relay-contactor with an additional (low amp) z-wave power switch.... BUT i think this is only 110V? (i am in australia and i require 240V).
am i interpreting this correctly? if so, i gather 1 will be easier to solve... anyone have any practical advice for me here?
thanks in advance. Keiran.
It’s a 15 amp 2 phase 240/250 volt plug with the ground plug as neutral and the two flat plugs carrying 120v each. Placing something like this between the plug and your breaker will work.
Do not do this unless you know what the hell you are doing. Fire, death, serious injury could occur!
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GIoHBbCJCZ69X