3d printed stuff sometimes has terrible edges like that. To clean 3d prints up, people normally use a deburring tool. I bet it would work pretty well for this? There are a bunch of cheap ones on Amazon.
Does anyone else use a deburring tool like this? https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Deburring-Blade-Blades/dp/B01L2XR4P2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=6FGR5K0WBHRG&keywords=deburring+tool&qid=1653683266&sprefix=debu%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyP...
It works great for removing brim remnants, minor elephants foot, etc!
AFA Tooling - Deburring Tool with 10 Extra High Speed Steel Blades - Works on Metal, Resin, PVC, and 3D Printed Plastic Edges - Great for Copper and PVC Pipes, 3D Printing, Resin Art, and Metal Work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2XR4P2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NJ89086RYX833XSN7W0X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's not the exact one I have, I bought mine from the Cornwell tool truck(I'm a mechanic), but that one is functionally the same.
Ideally you'd use a deburring tool.
AFA Tooling - Deburring Tool with 10 Extra High Speed Steel Blades - Works on Metal, Resin, PVC, and 3D Printed Plastic Edges - Great for Copper and PVC Pipes, 3D Printing, Resin Art, and Metal Work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2XR4P2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FKHF6WTN1QRWKSRD5D6N
Theres this amazing tool called a deburring tool, it is featured in many 3d printer tool kits on amazon or you can buy one individually for like 15 dollars. I have ran into similar situations and that tool has really helped. Make sure to check it out I'll put a link to a cheap and good one on amazon if you are interested: Deburring Tool
If you don’t want to ruin your prints cosmetically I’d advise a sharp machinist’ deburring tool.
Looks like a deburring tool
Drilling through aluminum isn't that difficult. The biggest difference from wood is lubrication. I use tap magic on stainless and it's fantastic, but for thin aluminum WD-40 is fine. If the bit is singing you need more lube. The stepper/cone bit that everyone has suggested is probably the best way you are going to get accurate holes that size in sheet metal with the tools you have. The only other way would be to use hole saws.
Your main problem is that that is already a finished piece. You need to protect the powder coating from chipping and the piece from deforming. I would use painters tape over the general area where the whole hole is going to be. To prevent the piece from being deformed from the pressure of drilling I would drill through the bottom(this also means that the hole alignment will be backwards). Other people have already suggested clamping to scrap wood(mdf will be better, it won't scratch the powder coating) in order to prevent dimpling in the sheet during drilling. Just make sure that the clamps don't dimple the aluminum either(pressure distribution). Idk if it's good for those cone bits to drill through mdf but I know the dust from the mdf underneath will combine with the lubricant to make a gross mess.
Are all your components free or on a single board? Either way you should definitely make a template to use with your center punch instead of trying to measure in order to align your hole centers properly. If they are all on a single board and need to pass through then a template is imperative.
You can debur the hole with something like this amazon Automatic center punches are crap but they work fine for aluminum harborfreight
Honestly the most dangerous thing is going to be breathing in the vaporized lubricant. If you are already experienced with the tools you are going to be using then you probably have the sense to not do anything that might hurt yourself. I think your biggest problems will be accidentally damaging the piece. I hope this was clear and wasn't over-explaining. Good luck.
Here's the deburring tool I have. Using it feels a lot more natural than a hobby knife/x-acto.
With aluminum being so soft I think the one I used is the same one you’d use for 3d prints. Can’t find the exact one but it was something like this - Chinese no name. amazon com/dp/B01L2XR4P2/
Edit: seeing if this gets around the spam filter
It comes from where the bars(? The things that that rollers a foot pedals are mounted to) connect to what I’d call the crank arms (like on a bike). Basically the spindles on the crank arms are about a millimeter or two longer than the part of the bars that move around it. If the crank arms aren’t 100% true (which mine aren’t) the bars slide side to side on the spindle making a loud klang when they hit the outer edge.
I bought some of these Teflon washers off eBay.
And put them between the end of the bars and the hex bolt and metal washer on the outside ends.
I had to ream them out just a bit with a deburring tool until the were big enough to fit on spindles.
I almost always use a brim, which has largely solved that issue for me. Cleaning up the edges then becomes a bit of a pain but I find it to be a necessary evil compared to corners lifting. I use a de-burring tool to clean up the edges much easier than with a normal blade. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Deburring-Blade-Blades/dp/B01L2XR4P2/, though I'm just using a cheap one from Home Depot
A deburring tool has been very handy. Especially to clean up holes
You should probably have a deburring tool for cleaning up brim edges anyways, but it would make very quick work of this as well.
I haven’t used it myself, but this might work too. AFA Tooling Deburring Tool with a Blade and Pack of 10 Extra Blades https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01L2XR4P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QaOOFbTZDT294?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Try a deburring tool.
Same. And if I need a cleaner edge I run the deburring tool around it.
Try using a deburring tool to chamfer the edges of the cut.