What is Reddit's opinion of Ordermore Long Tooth Undercoat Dog Rake,Anti-Slip Wood Handle Grooming Rake,Steel Comb for Long Hair Pet?

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Furminator is not a good choice for sammies...they are designed rip/cut out undercoat, which shouldn't be done to a sammy.

We use something like this for an undercoat rake provided to us when we picked up our dog.

I own a Samoyed and one way I've seen some folks do it at dog shows is they get a big camping tent and they do the raking/blowing there.

In general, you can probably use an undercoat rake (not one that cuts, but one like this) to get the clumps out, and so when you use your blower you're just getting the residual. I have a top-tier super expensive blower that helps a ton to get fur out of my dog, but the rake does a good job and doesn't blow the vast majority of the hair everywhere, so when I do clean him up with the blower it is way less of a fur drift.

It takes a couple years before their hair gets too unmanagable, but generally you'll need to comb them nightly some time around October and some time around March. You'll need to get their mane (under their chin and in their scruff) and their hindquarters (top side near tail and the sides above their legs) with a toothed brush like this.

If you don't they start getting mats and it becomes horrid to remove. So much pain and time and struggle to get rid of them, I mostly just cut them out now (which is pretty sad given how beautiful their fur is). You can comb them throughout the year, as a preventative measure, but I'm terrible at it when they're not currently shedding.

Thank you!

I went over her with a slicker brush and a rake like this it actually came out a lot easier than expected. She's pretty old so her hair is fairly thin.

I scrubbed her real good in the tub and I just recent got one of the Sav Ur Fur undercoat nozzles and I used that on her in the bath. I'm still getting the hang of it, but it definitely helped get a lot of the dirt and skin flakes off of her. The rest of the undercoat I got out with the blow dryer and then went over her with the slicker and rake again.

I also trimmed up her feet and legs the best I could since she pretty much laid down the whole time lol

Unsure if you can get this where you are, but this rake is pretty close to the one we have and it is the one grooming tool our breeder sends home with every puppy.

While I don't disagree with the other comment, because yes, once your adult dog is older you can skip many months bathing and only need to brush once a week, there are many, many puppies who do not get groomed enough while young and don't get used to it. As a result, it ends up being an extremely stressful process for them and because they were not adjusted to it when they were young, this becomes a PROCESS to reverse later on. This is not just in the realm of grooming - there are so many dogs that are so freaked out that they express their anal glands when they go in for nail trims, dogs whose owners don't realize there are areas that mat easily so they have huge golf-ball sized mats behind their ears that need to be cut out, and dogs that are never acclimated to high velocity dryers so when their owner has to inevitably take them to a groomer because they had never chosen to acclimate their dog to basic grooming processes themselves, the dog freaks the hell out while they are there and that ends up being a hit to their wallet - only a groomer can groom them which becomes expensive, and tougher dogs usually command a higher price because of the time and effort needed to get them groomed.

For a young puppy, you have the best chance of making sure that none of this happens by frontloading the expectations with your little guy or gal and creating a consistent grooming routine. Even if you don't buy your own high velocity dryer, introduce them to the sensations early and often - vacuum cleaner acclimation for the noises, and some people use Shop Vacs or leaf blowers as they do a nice, adequate job on drying young puppy coat. My dog's breeder recommended bathing every week or so until the puppy was 4-6 months old, then dropping down to monthly until their an adult - you can do this but really make sure you wash all the shampoo and conditioner out so you do not dry the skin. My puppy was tougher due to the fact we had to go to a crazy pet store to do a DIY wash, so we bathed him weekly to get him used to it until 8 months. Once the dog is an adult you can go months without bathing for sure.

When the dog is a puppy, it's important to comb down to the skin to remove mats and tangles a couple times a week. I did it every 2-3 days. This will be hard because it might be annoying or hurt a puppy, and once they realize they have teeth, they will not be afraid to use them, so it's really easy to put it off. Part of the reason it is annoying for a puppy is because as the puppy ages they have a mix of puppy and adult coat, which causes difficult tangles to extract sometimes, and detangling can be a painful process. I made this cheatsheet of spots to take special care with that mat easily especially during various coat transitions so if you focus on these more often you can prevent mats before they even start. Search YouTube for videos on how to groom and line comb dogs, there are tons that will help you with your technique. In general, as long as a dog isn't too tangled, I use a cheap but quality undercoat rake for the big spots a couple times a week to get the undercoat out and prevent matting, which allows me to spot-linecomb the problem areas. I also use a pin brush for the tail (the tines on this model are about 5mm too long than what Sammy people recommended me), although some people prefer to line comb the tail. Slicker brushes are also great for the topcoat, or if you are trying to get that super poofy blown out coat - slickering when the dog is 3/4ths dry from the skin up will get you that "straightening iron"-esque poofy marshmallow look and that's usually how it's done for shown dogs.

Don't forget to handle your puppy's paws and play with it's feet daily, trim nails once every 1-2 weeks, and open to inspect their bite (to make sure that if something happens in the future, you or a vet can inspect their teeth without any issue). All of these tend to be very important things that help a lot with adult puppies.

We were extra careful with our puppy because we were very lax with a lot of these things with our older dog, a small dog who used to readily accept nail trims, and now she thrashes and snaps so badly we cannot do it at home and have to take her to a groomer and force-feed her chicken nuggets while the groomer does her paws, and absolutely resents baths. We tried very hard to make sure our Samoyed didn't have to go through those levels of stress especially since he's way larger and we wouldn't be able to control him the same if we needed to. My dog is now almost 2, and he's so chill about bathing and grooming now that it's not even remotely a stressful process, even though he was absolutely NOT fun to groom during adolescence (this is a picture of him being dried after not being bathed for almost 2 months). Drying him is actually pretty fun and relaxing :)

How old is she?

We used a pet wash for the first year of our dog's life! With a puppy coat it makes sense. We always felt super bad about the mess we left but we were always assured by the staff that it was nothing to be too concerned about, we were paying customers. We still did our best to clean up the big chunks and were very polite to the staff.

It's great that you are doing a lot of grooming (I'm assuming) while your dog is young, and if there's any good time to trust a groomer with your dog and get the most for your money, it's during coat blow - keep in mind though that she still may continue to blow afterwards even with a full blowout by a groomer as some dogs just continually shed for a couple of weeks afterwards. Honestly, dogs who get groomed frequently while young end up growing up to be pretty good dogs. I don't take my dog to a groomer because honestly I hear horror stories about dogs being clipped and that's enough to keep me away. My breeder normally recommends that a puppy should be bathed and fully dried every 1-2 weeks until they are 4-5 months old (plus nails every other week). We kept that schedule until our dog was 8 months old, and he's a dog that will stand on a grooming table for grooming without a grooming arm, will turn on cue, won't jump out of the tub, and will generally relax and do a good job even in crazy environments. I pay to get his nails done (mainly because I was lax with my first dog and she's a terror to do nails with unless I'm holding her and feeding her while someone else is doing the clipping, so when I get her nails done I get my Sammy's done as well as it's pretty inexpensive) and he just stands on the table for the groomer with no real issue.

The dryer I have is the K9-II. The K9-II and the K9-III is consider the gold standard in terms of dryers overwhelmingly by people in the breed. It's pricey at $400, but when you think about how much you pay per wash at the dog wash, it sort of pays for itself very quickly (and the best price we could find for a pet wash was $10/wash!). We put away a couple dollars per paycheck until we had enough to buy our own. The dog wash we went to before we bought our own K9-II had two K9-IIs and it was awesome; we'd go at a really dead time like later on Friday night and used both of them at the same time to get our dog fully dried in less than a half hour. Honestly, it's a great investment - we often plug it in and blow out our dog down to the skin with the concentrator nozzle before we bathe him, making the dry go pretty well and reducing the amount of tangles we'd have to comb through later. It takes about 45 minutes to fully dry my dog's adult coat for a typical dry, significantly longer if we are linecombing him or prepping him for a show but it cuts down on that too. We also use it to blow the fur and dirt out of our cloth interior Corolla and it does a better job than the commercial car vacuums at the local car wash. There are some significantly cheaper dryers that will do a good job, although not as fast - Flying Pig and Metro Air Dryers are some slightly cheaper dryers that you can find on Amazon and Chewy for about half the price.

In general if you don't have a dryer, you can still achieve good amounts of fur removal pre-bath with a good undercoat rake. We avoid any of the ones that slice the coat and use this one that my breeder sent us home with. It's actually our favorite tool in my entire grooming kit in terms of being able to live with a Sammy and not drowning in fur!

Long toothed undercoat rake, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ORDERMORE-Undercoat-Anti-Slip-Handle-Grooming/dp/B073ZK287B/

I think an undercoat like this works best:

https://www.amazon.com/ORDERMORE-Undercoat-Anti-Slip-Handle-Grooming/dp/B073ZK287B/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=undercoat+rake&qid=1646833847&sr=8-15

I also like to use a wire pin brush like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Bass-Brushes-BASS-Wire-Groomer/dp/B00KSL0CZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=HKHSE8FSJYVU&keywords=bass+wire+pin+dog+brush&qid=1646834117&sprefix=bass+wire+pin+dog+brush%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-4

If she is spayed, then yes they tend to only blow the coat on the backside.

Thanks! Is this what you mean by an undercoat rake?? Ordermore Long Tooth Undercoat Dog Rake,Anti-Slip Wood Handle Grooming Rake,Steel Comb for Long Hair Pet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZK287B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P4EYGC186DFZN20JF5DC

We often get a lot of grooming questions at r/samoyeds. I had to bathe my 2-year old dog Camelot yesterday, so I thought it'd be fun to film the process and speed it up to show our routine together.

Cam swam in a friend's swimming pool and then proceeded to run around a hilly, muddy property with his friends Felix the Toller and Fawkes the Beauceron. He had a training class yesterday evening and was still extremely damp so I had to do a "pet bath". The goal was to get him to about 95% dry down to the skin; for pet dog dries I don't worry as much if his muzzle and the bottoms of his feet/between his toes are fully dry. The total time for a bathe and dry was 1 hour and 25 minutes, sped up 8x and coming in around 10 minutes. About 8 minutes of the original video during the dry froze so I ended up editing it out.

This is by no means the only way or even best way to do something, it's just how I do it to get a clean and functional dog on a regular basis as a Sammy owner. You'll notice my dog is extremely cooperative with grooming and that's not a coincidence - he was bathed weekly and dried down to the skin when he was young for months, trained to be groomed on a table without a grooming arm, trained to be groomed on a table with a grooming arm (I don't use one, but people who may groom my dog, like if I take him to get his nails done, use one so I want him to not be freaked out by it). He was fairly difficult to groom as a puppy and a teenager but we made it a good experience for him and he enjoys some of it and tolerates the rest of it.

The Process:

• Normally, I spend about 10 minutes brushing, combing or raking Camelot to get as much fur out before bathing, since it makes it a little easier. Cam was already wet from jumping in the pool so I didn't want to damage his fur. Instead I put a little conditioner in before bathing as a precaution (I don't normally do this).
• 0:33: Wet Cam down.
• 0:43: Scrub his booty! It's much easier with a washcloth but I didn't have one on hand so I had to use streams of water. Shampoo all over, rinse.
• 1:29: Towel dry, let him shake out a bit while I find supplies. Much easier to dry with as much of the excess water removed as possible.
• 1:45: Dry with a concentrator with both motors for what seems like forever.
• 5:09: Take off concentrator, dry more sensitive areas without it. I tend to take special care around my dog's head (especially the ears) and dry with a single speed for most of that area. I also do the leg area and feathering, as well as the tail, without a concentrator.
• Once my dog is about 85% dry in a spot, I use my slicker brush in that section to brush out and separate the hair down to the skin. It blowdries the hair uniformly and poofily, and also much more quickly. I use it the brush and the concentrator to make sure he is really dry through and through.
• When he's fully dry, I spot-condition him again to protect him against our extremely dry weather.
• 8:54: Trim paw pad hair so he has better traction running on slick surfaces. I don't actually do a full trim here.

Extra stuff that takes up more time:

When I am preparing to show Cam, this process length can up to double. Here's what I do that makes it longer:

• Nails - usually done not on a show day, but ~2 days beforehand. I can't find my dremel right now so often times I go to a groomer and get them done, but he's trained to accept clippers and a dremel and he's super easy for any groomer. +15 minutes
• Teeth cleaning - +5-10 minutes
• Extra shampoo and rinse in the bath on show days - + 15 minutes
• More systematic/diligent drying - When I show him I want the fur to lay certain ways and I'm way more meticulous about drying him and do a lot more slicker brush work and less with the concentrator. +30-45 minutes
• Linecombing - I try to bathe him the night before a show and do a full section-by-section linecomb on him to make sure that every inch is dry and the fur is not tangled/is going in the right direction. Then we go home, sleep, wake up, and do the same thing again the next day. +45-70 minutes per session, at least 2x sessions

My Tools/Gear:

People tend to have opinions on grooming tools and no one is right or wrong, so it's good to try out some and see what you like. I started with a bunch of cheap tools I got as either hand-me-downs, on Amazon, or at pet stores, and slowly replaced them with higher quality tools, mostly Chris Christiansen, when I developed my preferences.

• Dryer: K9 II dryer with a concentrator tip, some people prefer the flat tip it comes with, I prefer the round one.
• Undercoat rake: this is a carbon copy of what I own. It was gifted to me by my dog's breeder when we took him home as a puppy and it's my favorite maintenance tool between baths and grooms.
• Slicker brush: Chris Christiansen Mark II Slicker, small. My dog has a working-style biscuit coat which is a little shorter and his lines take a few years and a few blows to develop its plushiness. A lot of people with puffier coats like the longer-tine, larger slicker brushes, and I'll probably invest in one in a bit, but for the sake of washing and drying my dog and having a force dryer/concentrator on hand, the small slicker does its job well. Before I bought this slicker I spent 2 years using a cheap plastic hand-me-down slicker that was a bit smaller and did a great job. In general, slickers without little balls on the tips are recommended since the balls can snag coat (although if you have a young puppy using a cheap slicker with balls for 3-4 weeks until they get used to it isn't a horrible idea, but promptly throw it away and replace after that!)
• Pin Brush: Chris Christiansen A918, firm. A 22mm length pin brush is just my preference and I usually just use it on his tail if I'm not linecombing the tail. Some people like longer tines or larger, oval brushes, that's cool too.
• Comb: Ashley Craig greyhound comb, 2-way or Chris Christiansen Buttercomb 000, I have both and I love them fairly equally.
• Scissors: I'm using super cheap Gimars scissors as foot scissors. Honestly I hate them and I need to replace them with nicer ones with better grip that I can get sharpened often but I just haven't gotten around to it. For scissors, you will want at least a pair of straight scissors if you want to trim paw pad hair, and also a pair of scissors with teeth called blending shears if you want to trim feet for a show.

Stuff specific to Camelot:

• Shampoo: Pure Paws Hydrating Shampoo
• Conditioner: Pure Paws Silk Cream Conditioner, used not as directed on the packaging and instead used as a leave-in spot treatment only every few days. We live in a dry climate and this stuff is a godsend. We do not apply this in his coat during a bath or after a bath when we are getting him ready to show.
• Wood pin brush: We use this to distribute the conditioner down to the skin and coat hair evenly with it.