Yes that's right. Make sure your using the 2.5amp power supply that comes with it, or higher drawing that much power it could cause slowdown issues.
There is this for example on amazon https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492717886&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+hub
that won't draw much, but depending on what your doing you might want to invest in a USB hub that has it's own power supply. Always a better choice
> Why not get a pi zero (cheap) in the meantime,
That's not a bad suggestion either. Pi Zero works well with most SNES, Genesis, and Arcade games, and it's relatively cheap. However, plan on spending some more money a Mini HDMI adapter and Micro USB adapter, plus a USB Hub if you want more than one player (the Pi0 is picky about which USB hub it uses, most people recommend the Amazon Basics USB hub).
Yes, or more than two. I've had 8 hooked up before. The Pi Zero's are a little picky about which USB Hubs will work. If you have some around you can try them to see if they work, otherwise I recommend getting an Amazon Basics Hub.
I use this for the same purpose (Xbox 360 and PS3 controllers), it's unpowered and cheap and has never given me problems:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
But as you may have noticed with ouya's, YMMV. But it's cheap to try to see if it works.
Pi Zero's can be picky, I think because they have a slightly non-standard USB implementation. I don't recall if I had any issues when I had my Pi3A+ when I had it. I do know that the Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Hub worked well with it - I bought a case when I caught it on sale cheap from Amazon Warehouse and have been using them with everything ever since.
Add a USB with more USBs to have infinite USBs
I have a rpi zero and a non-powered USB hub.
Anything I plug into the mini USB port on the pi works, EXCEPT for the USB hub (popular amazon brand). The USB hub works everywhere else. The USB hub isn't a simple cable splitter, it's this one (AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf), if that makes a difference).
I have no idea what to do to fix it, as this makes it impossible to use my pi as an emulation station: I need two ports for it, and I can't download any drivers because even if it did have Internet I wouldn't have a free keyboard and mouse port to download them.
Does this make sense? Any guidance?
There is always the "docks" like Alesis, Behringer, Focusrite and others all have docks with midi IO, audio IO's and ability to charge at the same time. Honestly though, you could just get aUSB splitter and as long as your regular interfaces are class compliant you could use those and then charge it with another USB slot at the same time.
I got a sneaky feeling that the only female USB connector on that eBay unit that has the data +/- lines is that micro USB. It's the only side with a silkscreened label, and that thing is only $2.77US.
Can you look in there and verify that the female USB A connections have the center 2 lanes for data wires? Otherwise pry open the case and trace the circuit board routing.
Edit: I used this non powered hub from Amazon on my Pi zero and it worked great, only $6.50: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
It is lighting up it's just covered by the case it's in.
I wrote it to the microSD using Win32 Disk Imager.
This is the one that the reviews have said work with the pi zero: AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i6ztybX6G3N7E
The one I'm using came from a local store in Canada so I don't think you'll be able to get one.
Hmm, well then my only other idea would be to use something like this (don't get it from amazon.ca unless you're Canadian, though, that's just the one that I bought so it was easy to find). I have it plugged into a USB 2.0 port on my case, but I have my controller plugged into it and I use DS4Windows (haven't tried controller without DS4Windows, honestly). If you want I could try to do some testing for you to see if that might work, but I'll need some time, busy night ahead of me.
I use the Define R4. I bought my hub to connect to a usb extension cable so I could run a mouse and controller across the floor and game from my couch. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And, fwiw, it took me ages to figure out too. When I finally did, it was one of those head bashing "why wasn't that the first thing I checked!" moments.
I ended up going with the Amazon Basics USB 2.0 hub. I use it with my Pi Zero and am able to use a keyboard, mouse, wifi dongle, and SNES USB controller at the same time.
AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_BmKWwb178PC5Q
> Besides, I don't know that I've ever seen a USB hub with an "uplink port" that was USB-A type , rather than USB-B. Most cables with two male ends are A to B. In fact, I don't know that I've ever seen male to male USB cable with two A-type ends in person.
I've got just such a thing on my desk.
This is an interesting issue that I think I had encountered before. Have you tried it on multiple USB ports on your computer? Is it still there? Does the static come and go, or is it constant?
My issue was the sound would work okay for maybe a minute and then a glaring static noise that was almost unbearable would happen. I tried all different USB ports and still the same thing. This was on my first pair of the regular Elite's.
What I ended up doing, and by some miracle it worked, I bought a USB splitter and plugged the headset into that and it worked. It has something to do with interference in the USB ports (my guess) but this remedied my issue. I simply bought the Amazon basic splitter for like five dollars. It's worth a shot for a low price. If that doesn't work then I would definitely contact RMA. Be wary, (when I contacted them about this issue it took nearly 4 months to get it resolved)
I have the Elite Prism now and got a new computer and all of the USB ports work just fine without any static, for both the Prism and the old headset I was having problems with, leading me to believe it has to be an issue with the USB ports.
I was using a 17" Mid-2009 Macbook Pro. Now using a 27" 2014 iMac.
I recommend the drive with a y-cable. That way the hard drive powers up and down with the console. With an externally powered drive, you have to either leave it on all the time (will lead to early hard drive failure) or you have to plug it in every time you use your Wii U (which is a major pain).
Just get a cheap usb hub to plug into one of the front USB ports so you can still plug in all your accessories. Here's an Amazon Basics one for $7 that turns one port into 4 so you have 5 in the front:
Also, if you happen to have an old laptop that is dead or not used anymore, you can remove the hard drive from it and put it in a <$10 external enclosure and use it like a portable hard drive. I did this and it's been going strong for almost 4 years. Here's the external enclosure I used (includes a y cable):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E362W9O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It means clean in terms of power, which means just get a powered USB hub if you're uncertain. Most modern, quality computers don't have this issue, although a lot of laptops and older desktops still have poor USB voltage regulation. The modi 2 is simply designed assuming your computer meets the USB spec. I don't think it's necessarily Schiit's fault that the test /u/Dreyka1 linked to shows such high levels of jitter as that means either buy a $10 powered hub ($7 on Amazon) and continue or upgrade your computer. The Modi 2 is already an excellent performing DAC for its price (assuming your USB source isn't shit), and if you have a bad computer you can simply pay $10 more. Seems like a sweet deal to me.
Based on your flair though, it doesn't matter, as you have a modi 2 uber, which has the wall-wart and doesn't draw power from the usb.
EDIT: Also, this: ~~http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/measurements-are-hard.5159/~~
Nevermind, a Schiit wyrd was probably used here as /u/Dreyka1 correctly stated, which is the reason for the performance. My point still stands though.
EDIT 2, for transparency: After further discussion (see below), /u/Dreyka1 has proven that the modi 2 non uber is significantly outclassed in it's price bracket for it's USB performance. While a cheap powered hub helps mitigate the issue if you already own a modi 2 non uber, I don't think this DAC is recommendable anymore for anyone buying new. Buy a different DAC that already has quality USB performance.
For My Awesome Pilot Chair I used this USB hub from Amazon, works fine, but I had to disable the programming elements that control the lights on the throttle for lack of voltage, as I use it in conjunction with a rather long USB extension cable.
I have recently added independently-amped subwoofers to my chair using this awesome guide, when I have time I will post new pictures of it.
I've been using this for a few years on my PS3 and it works great.
It's very light, so I recommend using some tape or something to hold it down
It was this one.
I had a similar problem with my Touch and using Windows 7 and for a short time with Windows 10 too.
I read somewhere that using a USB hub will make the Kobo work with windows. Just a basic one like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_FFTGF40TF9S3X26MCQ0H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've put a few photos on https://imgur.com/a/BXu7s4c
Internally it's a bit of a mess because the keyrah takes up so much space and the length of the cables for the rear ports make the location of the pi awkward. Inside, the little PCB on the right is a teensy LC. There's a button on the back of the case which connects up to this and generates an F12 keypress when you press the button. This is really handy if you're running FS-UAE to get back to the menu. There's also a rotary encoder which acts as a volume control/mute.
The PCB on the left is the internals of one of https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003M0NURK which, as you can see from the other photo is exactly the right size and spacing to fit 3 USB ports into the PCMCIA slot. The big white PCB in the middle is the keyrah. It's big and clunky and takes up the space the pi could easily go into.
At some point when I get a better keyboard setup I'll rejig everything putting things in tidier locations and 3D printing a better back panel.
Something else that you might find useful is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9N36GG which is handy for an authentic amiga joystick over usb.
We've had this issue for a few years on all of our models where we use a USB to Ethernet adapter for imaging (Yoga, Yoga 12, Yoga 260, Yoga 370 and Dell 7390 2-in-1). We've been connecting the USB to Ethernet adapter to a cheap USB 2.0 hub and plugging that into the laptop USB port as a workaround and this always works for us. Slows things down a bit, but at least it works. Here is the USB hub that we use: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522295670&sr=8-3&keywords=amazon+basics+usb+2.0+hub&dpID=418ZqgcqNCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpsrc=srch.
​
I also recently ran across this, but haven't verified if it is also a workaround in our environment: https://www.dell.com/support/article/gy/en/gybsdt1/sln308790/sccm-task-sequence-workaround-for-domain-join-failures-on-certain-skylake-kaby-lake-systems?lang=en
Perfect! Thanks.
If your looking for a normal PC usb HUB you could try something simple off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
If you want to use a powered device like an external HDD, multiple controllers and card readers. Then I would try something like this.
If your looking for a barebones hub to built in to an enclosure for a future project try looking around this site.
These are just some quick google searches, so be sure to read the reviews and do some light research on which would work best for you.
One from amazon as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M0NURK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With iPhone you need a lightning to USB adapter and something similar to this. Then just plug it in and you’re good to go!
I can also confirm that cheap, non-powered hubs work. I got the most AmazonBasic bitch 2.0 hub and it works fine.
You could use a passive (self powered) USB hub like this one from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vFjKzbWDR4NT8
Cut the Type A end off and connect that instead of what you have reattached. I used this USB hub in a Pi NES game cartridge and it worked very well. You can also de solder the female connectors on the board to get slimmer.
End game it's you'll need a USB chipset that can run a host/ device tree for your teensy since it isn't possible to do USB data over GPIO.
Edit: just in case this helps, this is how I used the hub in my case: http://imgur.com/3tSmu25
Hello. Look at this previous post on USB controllers compatibility. I also did some additional testing this morning for you. The amazon basic usb hub won't work with any of my controllers. However, another Nexxtech usb hub I had did work.
I'll be happy to answer any further questions you have!
Hope this helps: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK There are also bigger ones too.
A USB hub with a power cord that you plug into the wall. Some have them, some don't. The ones that don't are fine for mice and keyboards. But a portable hard drive gets all its power from the computer and an unpowered hub sometimes gives it problems, it will sometimes eject randomly, even while copying files, or not work at all.
This one is bus-powered.
This one has an AC adapter.
Glue this to the side of the case: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
> it only has 1 USB
Buy a $10 usb hub. Heck: here's one for $7: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-4-Port-USB-2-0-Ultra-Mini/dp/B003M0NURK
I mean, there are more outlets on the Back of your PC (keyboards, mice, all plug in there). But there are also USB splitters.
So those always exist.
To answer your question more thoroughly, I personally love Toshiba's Satellite Brand, there high performance laptops are highquality and top of the line. I bought a C55-A5286 from them last year, and it came with a 750 gb hard drive and 16gb ram. Its more than effective at anything you'd need to use for debate. I even use this laptop to play counter strike with no problems at all.
I will disclose two things about the satellite that you may want to consider before buying 1. I had a keyboard failure within the 1st year but it was replaced with the Toshiba Warranty but I had to pay for Fedex shipping. I sent the laptop to them on a monday and I got it back on a friday. 2. The screen on my laptop was especially fragile. I broke the screen after inadvertently having my knee make contact with it while I was sitting down at a debate tournament. The laptop is currently hooked up to a PC Monitor and works just fine. I use a Dell Inspiron for my debate work, it has 4gb ram and 500 gb hard drive and it still does all the work relatively quickly.
If your laptop is slowing down I'd consider looking at what you might have cluttered on there before you lay down a big wad of money on a new laptop.
AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Ultra-Mini Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M0NURK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1ZtHBbBFJH2BC