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Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black?
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96 reviews of this product found across Reddit:
I had to change USB cables several times. I ended up using an amazon basics USB that works fine - the two others I had laying around did something similar to what you describe. While the ALO cable should be good, for some reason the Jotunheim seems picky about them. Here is the one that works for me, I don't know why it's any different than the other ones I tried but it is: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511142281&sr=8-8&keywords=amazon+basics+usb
The black one is a barrel jack. It's used for power if not being powered from the USB port. The USB port works with any USB A to USB B cable, commonly found with printers or larger USB hard drives. A new one can be found here https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Yep, your kit has a USB-B port allowing you to track directly from the module to your laptop.
Right so what you need is a USB 2.0 A-male to B-male cable. It’s also known as the USB Printer cable.
Here’s one:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
This is a 6feet cable^. Should be more than enough.
If it was a the standard USB B to USB A cable, which most MIDI controllers have, it would have looked like this. Easy and cheap to replace. Your local WalMart or equivalent store should have them.
You need a USB A-B cable to connect to the MK3S, like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK of a decent length.
The display is useless if you are not near the printer/pi, use you mobile or (desk|lap)top.
The camera has narrow FoV. If you want to see the whole bed get a wide angle version. And 50cm cable might be just enough depending on how you want to position.
No. You need an RCA Cable and a USB cable that has a USB2 cable that has a Type B end. (like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK). You need the square ending usb 2. Anyways I use amazon basics usb cables on mine and they're great.
I had a similar problem. Furthermore in my case it would take me up to 2 hours to get serato to connect to my controller. I got an Amazon basic cable and it works wonderfully. Here is a link to the one I got.
I have a few touch screen monitors and as long as it has a USB-A port, you connect it to a USB B port in the hub, and it should work.
​
If this generation of pedals has that connector then it also has a USB B connector. The round connector is used for connection to the FANATEC wheel base. The square connector with corners cut off is for connecting to USB. One OR the other can be connected. The generic Fanatec drivers support this old pedal set. I am not sure about generic windows drivers.
I am still using a set like this. Great pedals if they work.
Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HF63GJ2MVYYAF1KTPF4D
This is what you need. Don’t know what computer you have or what DAW you are using. If you are using a Mac I’ve found it very straight forward to just plug the piano into the Mahé Mac through the usb and then you can play through GarageBand. The Steinway piano there is really quite good through studio speakers. There’s also quite a large array of synths and synth effects to play with. Also quite easy to introduce and navigate plugins. I’ve been using my pretty basic keyboard with GB for quite some time now.
I have the atom amp (bought it before the amp+was released 2 months prior 😐) and the jds atom dac+. The atom amp powers my Sundara well the atom dac+ doesn't have any static noise at all.
The atom amp+ is an upgraded version of atom amp at the same price and it also powers 90% of the headphones out there. From the reviews I have seen, the atom amp+ is even better than the atom amp. I'm not gonna dwell on that because my probably can't hear the differences anyway.
The atom dac+ comes with a switch that allows you to turn off the dac when it is not in use. The dac also have the auto sleep feature, but I'm not sure what is the required duration. The USB cable is quite short. If you put your dac faraway from your pc and you want cable management you can buy one of these:
Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AKV417CVXMYYQ8ZRGWSF?psc=1
There is a ferrite included in the atom dac+ box, which is used to eliminate any interference from usb cable. Just put it on the new cable and you are good to go.
The cable at least is a standard USB Type A to B male to male cable:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Not sure about the power supply, but any generic power supply with the right volts/amps should work, if the drive is good.
I'm a bit confused. You got another cable and it didn't work?
The cable is a USB b printer cable. So if you already got one and it didn't work. Test the USB port on the computer. Check the interface for any damage at connections.
This is the cable. Doesn't need to be exactly this one if you wanna spring for fancy colors or gold plated snake oil for a bit more $. Just needs to be a "USB 2.0 printer cable" with these connections.
Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4AETPWZF8KC08V0CR109
I believe the HEQ5 controller has a USB type B port. So the cable you’ll need is a USB A/B cable, like this one:
Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XASA72S3875XF7SNNTGE
Assuming of course that your Astroberry has standard USB ports and not the smaller type C’s. I had an Astroberry at one point and iirc, that cable I linked you should work. Just pick a cable length that’s suitable for your application.
Common name for it is a USB printer cable, or USB 2.0 B. You can record the audio and midi at the same time if you like.
It's one of these but you will probably need to find a 90 degree right-angle connection instead of the straight one for the wheelbase side of the connection. I couldn't find one to link quickly that I trusted, they're all funky company names on amazon and that's red flag for me. (AAYOTEK or RIIEYOCA cables ... yeah)
Yep, you have to use the software. It's worth setting up, it makes it super easy to customize and gives you access to effects and settings not available on the physical amp. You just need a simple USB A to B printer cable, I just bought this Amazon Basics one and it works fine.
> You need a USB A-B cable to connect to the MK3S, like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK of a decent length.
Can I use the one that came with my MK3S or is that one too long?
> The display is useless if you are not near the printer/pi, use you mobile or (desk|lap)top.
I was going to use it for basic controls when I'm at the desk that my MK3S sits on. My computer(s) are in another room.
> The camera has narrow FoV. If you want to see the whole bed get a wide angle version.
Good to know. Might just roll with the wide-angle then, which is also on Prime, so that's nice.
> And 50cm cable might be just enough depending on how you want to position.
I plan on having the display/Pi to the left of the printer, on the desk it's sitting on. Just needs to be long enough to snake through one of the openings on the enclosure i'm getting.
Thanks!
Confirming, zero soldering. Though I did have a little difficulty with the "update screen firmware part", it was mostly just down to finding an SD card that was willing to play ball with the setup. Everything else was very easy and took maybe ~30 minutes
Just be aware you'll need a "printer" USB cable (this is what I got) and have to provide your own screen and hardware (basically anything that isn't the case itself). Still very worth it though!
UPDATE: I replaced the cable with this, changed outlets, and fixed the driver errors. Still not working.
Need a general opinion on these two points:
- Would it be better to make a controller/buy another, or continue trying to make the control box that come with the CNC work?
- Would it be easier to run CNC programs on the windows 10 laptop I have, or the windows XP desktop I bought?
Thank you with your help so far, I appreciate it.
Yes, that's what I purchased on Amazon. The cable is a USB 2.0 printer cable. This is the one I purchased.
You could try using another cable like this if you don't have similar ones laying around. Might be a waste of $6 but will be a fast fix if it's just the cable.
Nope, it doesn't. This (USB A to B) is what you need, as I recall.
This new MIDI controller connects to the computer with a USB like one of these cords below:
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R0sYBb0NFMF6A
I am using a Alienware laptop from 2015ish. I'm assuming I have the newest version of Pro Tools First since I only downloaded a few days ago.
Also what is ASIO and why do people keep talking about it?
Also thank you for responding.
The Bifrost has a USB B port on the back. All you need is a USB 2.0 A to B cable and to select the Bifrost as the output device on your computer and you should be good to go.
Oh, I got it that long intentionally. My hope was that I could run it from my radio to the coffee table, and have some length left over to wind an air choke into the cable.
My initial though was that the first cable was somehow broken, which may explain the issue. It was a generic Amazon cable, and ironically enough it is now unavailable due to quality issues. It is listed here: AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Cable - A-Male to B-Male - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Mwwozb84M72SR
When I got the second cable, it didn't occur to me that the level of shielding or length had anything to do with problems I was having.
Would I be able to run a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK5039287/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00NH11KIK&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18176725852370964003&hvpone=&hv... from my mixer to my laptop and be able to record? The laptop doesn't have a 3.5 mm input, just usb ports, lan and a headphone jack.
- Google search 'Casio CTK3200 Manual'.
- The first link is the Casio official website download page
- Download the manual
- Check the table of contents on page one, the section called Connecting External Devices > Connecting a Computer on page E-34 sounds good. Alternatively, the General Guide section on pages E-2 and E-3 show you the back of the machine and tell you for the USB port turn to page E-34. E-34 is definitely where we want to go.
- That page tells you that you need a "USB cable (A-B type)" so lets google that too
- The very first link is for an AmazonBasics brand one that is $5 and has free one-day shipping.
That is USB type B
Most printers usually have a USB connection that you can use if the WiFi doesn't work.
Are you talking about a USB B Cable. If not, let me know what monitor you have and I can find the name of the cable.
This one worked for me: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NH11KIK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you don't mind a UK Amazon link, this would be fine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Try Amazon, they have one for $7. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Wq7iCbSMRG2KS
You will need a Usb type B to type A Edit link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ktHzFbM7YPGFJ
Don't forget that USB-B fits in a RJ-45 too.
you can buy one here: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
USB. You can see the USB symbol on the left there. It's the one with one end normal and the other bigger. Like the USB cables used to plug in printers.
Amazon Basic, 413jpy for 1.8m.. Get a Prime trial and I guarantee this will be cheaper and more convenient than going to an electronic store.
Here is the cable (it may say printer but it works on any USB device with the same port).
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
You're welcome. You need this particular cable.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK If you can't find any, that's the cable you need. They call it printer cable as well.
It’s a USB Type B connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NXNETSBSKWFQ75SRFF3W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Does it look like this? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK?th=1
Great info. Thank you. I ordered this:
Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_14NTHXG0X24PRV1M8YPP
Hey so I've got a couple that I've used:
The one I mentioned above should be enough to get you recording stereo and MIDI outputs.
This one I used to help me record individual drums/cymbals - I now have 11 tracks (+ MIDI) set up to record.
The general idea is:
1) Install TD27 Drivers
2) Connect TD to computer using a Printer Cable
3) Set up audio preferences in your DAW (I would recommend Reaper - I've picked it up quite quickly) and set up tracks to record. Videos I have linked will show you how to do that.
Once you've done all this it should be plug and play - very simple
Optional) Set up a track template to record all individual drums/cymbals/room mics/overheads so that you can simply open the template for each new project
DIY method vs. if you find a commission, you save the effort but may spend more.
be warned: this will easily cost you upwards of $200~300+
you can try googling: how to build a fightstick
~
my creation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVfWGBVacPY
~
things you need:
- brook PCB for PS4 (recommend the universal all-in-one version; flexible) https://arcadeshock.com/products/brook-universal-fighting-board-ps3-ps4-xbox-360-xbox-one-pc-w-20-pin-and-pre-soldered-headers
- brook cables 20pin-in-1 https://arcadeshock.com/products/quick-connect-20-pin-harness-for-fight-sticks
- brook cables 5-pin conversion cable https://arcadeshock.com/products/jlf-5-pin-to-stickless-conversion-cable
- USB printer cable, to connect brook PCB to PS4 https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
- PCB mounting legs, for the PCB for electrical isolation https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Insulated-Spacer-Plastic-Replacement/dp/B08BNFT164/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pcb+feet&qid=1646948013&sr=8-3
- screws, for brook PCB to mounting legs (see above)
- at least 10 arcade buttons; i used Seimitsu PS-14-KN 30mm various colors https://arcadeshock.com/products/seimitsu-ps-14-kn-clear-pushbutton-30mm-screw-on
- transparent rectangular box or any cardboard box; i used KIS C Box Transparent S size made in Italy https://www.kis.it/en/singola-variante?id=39618
- electric drill
- 30mm drill bit (to create the 30mm hole for the buttons on the top surface)
- optional: USB printer extension cable https://www.amazon.com/USB-Printer-Extension-Cable-iGreely/dp/B07CGXTXMT/
~
tips:
- draw out a blueprint of the box dimensions and button layout on an A3 drawing board
- mark out exactly where the button layout should be on the top surface of the transparent box
- when drilling the holes, only drill onto the box's top surface without the rest of the box attached to it, to prevent the drill from slipping. stack some newspapers below the top surface and apply direct vertical pressure downwards
~
and the results:
USB-B, often called a printer cable.
Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_J0J6ET8106YN4ZHETRW2
Right, it would be a USB A to USB B cable like the one here:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
The square end goes to the printer (USB B) and the rectangular end (USB A) goes to the PC.
Looks like a USB 2.0 port - Type B. This is the type of cable you'd likely need: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
You just need a USB B to USB A cord. Something like this would work fine.
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B… | $6.86 | $6.86 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
You need a USB-A to USB-B cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK?th=1
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-… | $8.00 | $8.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-… | - | - | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-… | - | - | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| AmazonBasics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-… | $8.00 | $8.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
"The FP-30X even features USB audio/MIDI connectivity, allowing you to interface with computers and record tracks in professional music production software."
​
https://www.roland.com/us/products/fp-30x/
https://static.roland.com/assets/images/products/gallery/fp-30x-bk_back_gal.jpg
​
if you look on the back you have 2 usb type cables
on the right you have usb memory, thatll be a normal usb a-b but won't be for midi,
you need a https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK for the midi connection
It just uses a generic USB type A to B cable like this
Amazon Basics USB 2.0 Printer Cable - A-Male to B-Male Cord - 6 Feet (1.8 Meters), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8CWTQV5TV97A19WJ3TZ4
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
A printers is probably the most likely but lots of other devices use this cable.
You need a USB B male to USB A male cable
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
then the power supply that outputs 12V 2 amps.
Which model Canon printer? What type of USB plug?
Unless its something unusual or proprietary, it should be a standard USB A Male to B Male cable, such as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
Local stores should have them too. Not sure what is near you but here are some options.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/onn-6ft-USB-Printer-Cable/847376288
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-6-usb-2-0-a-male-to-b-male-cable-black/5886035.p?skuId=5886035 (On the very high side for price)
https://www.staples.com/c2g-6-56-usb-a-male-b-male-black-28102/product_IM1K12333
You need any usb a to usb b cable. Doesn’t need to be fancy, but try to get one with a ferrite core.
I think the American site uses this link: https://www.storexppen.com/buy/87.html
But it also just says it's a USB-A to USB-B cable, which is one of the most commonly used cables for printers. So you can find them all over the place, like on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
There are longer cables too, just make sure it's USB-A male to USB-B male (and not the blue 3.0 version, it's a different connector)
The RPI does not connect via microUSB. It connects via USB A and USB B, like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
The USB C is for power only. There should not be a USB micro B on your RPI 4.
it transmits MIDI over the USB cable as well as the 5-PIN MIDI outputs. So you can just use any old USB A to B cable to connect it to your PC and get MIDI in and out. No need for anything fancy.
ex: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Tough to tell from some of the pictures but I'm 95% certain that it looks like a "USB-A" cable in the back.
You want a cable that looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=usb+a+cable&qid=1617547385&sr=8-4
Looks like instruction manual confirms: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1525143/Casio-Cdps-100.html?page=18#manual
All of the other posts are correct. What everyone hasn't said yet is you need a USB 'B' to USB 'A' cable - same as used for most USB printers.
You need a printer cable to connect to the back of the Katana.
And an OTG cable to connect your phone to the printer cable
Have you tried using a different cable. This amazon cable worked for me!
Pen displays generally have three connections: Video, data, power. This model uses a DVI-D cable for video. Power adapter is POW-A131 for the non-touch, and POW-A120 for the touch model. Then the USB-B to A cable for data, he's one from Amazon that should work: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK (these cables are very generic and standard, so compatibility is never really an issue so long as you get the right connector type).
Since you are getting a video signal, I wouldn't bother changing those other cables. Just swap this one and see what happens, if it doesn't fix it --- the issue could be the computer, but more likely an issue with the Cintiq itself (my money's on the cable tho).
Good luck
It is indeed a standard USB A to B cable.
Using one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_27guFbC34DPM0
To connect an RC505 to your computer you need a cable similar to this (USB-B to USB-A or -C or whatever port you have)
To make audio come out of your laptop, you'd want to go in your audio settings and make your computer "Listen" to your connected audio device (the RC505). Here's a tutorial for Win10.
(Note: There's gonna be a very noticeable delay between you making sounds and audio coming out of your laptop because it's a USB connection. If you just want to listen to your audio, I'd recommend sticking to headphones with a jack like the one listed above.)
For connecting to the computer, both boards use regular USB A/B cable, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
The same cable can also be used to power the boards - for most cases, this is all you need.
Are you sure? This doesn't look like the cable that came with my mic: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
>Thank you for the incredibly informative reply! I've been reading up on this a bit but I'm still unsure: what's the difference in quality, latency, and software/hardware compatibility between tradition '5-din' MIDI, MIDI to USB / USB-MIDI and USB (where either both sides are USB or like [this](https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=asc_df_B00NH11KIK/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6368450382305919329&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033574&hvtargid=pla-181858139331&psc=1)? For example, my digital piano has a 5 pin MIDI 'DIN', is this different in any way (software/hardware compatibility, quality etc) from the example cable provided in the link? I hear all kinds of different opinions on the matter. And it's extra confusing to me because my computer doesn't have a MIDI in port, so it's going to have to get changed into USB anyway. I mean maybe the desktop has top has MIDI in, but I'm not even sure if there's advantages there.
>
>At any rate, I think I've boiled it down to either the Keystep or Microbrute. I'm going to use softsynths with either, so I'm not sure if the Keystep has any advantages here other than being cheaper.
>
>Sorry for the rant and thanks for the help so far, it's been very helpful.
look like a normal usb B plug
you probably need one of these https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
That's correct. I'm using a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
it's a standard USB A-B cable
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
Computer to PT-100 via USB type A cable.
PT-100 Main outputs to Airmotiv inputs via a stereo RCA patch cable
I'm also looking for a DAC for the LSR305. So far, the Scarlett 2i2 2nd gen seems to be one of the most popular.
In the case of the 2i2, you would need:
- 1x USB Cable A-Male to B-Male (like this one)
and
- 2x 1/4'' TRS cables (like this one
or
- 2x XLR to TRS cable (like this one)
Whichever DAC you decide to get you should get one with balanced outputs like TRS (Scarlett 2i2) or XLR (Scarlett 2i4). It doesn't make any difference as far as sound quality if output is TRS or XLR or if you use XLR to TRS cables.
So, as I said I'm looking for a DAC too and although the 2i2 is popular I haven't setled on it yet; I'm just a casual music listener and I feel the recording inputs will be wasted if I get the Scarlett as I don't do any recording at all, ever.
I just wand a decent DAC (<$200) that has volume control and balanced outputs (and optionaly, very low prio, a headphone output).
To get something shorter than a common size will just cost you more money.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
I don't think DP is the same thing as Type B, but I can't be sure. Just get something like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK and you should be fine
I don't believe a USB cable comes with that piano.
You'll want an AB type USB cable of less than 3 meters.
Is this a good one? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK
I assume I can't use digital optical as I'm pretty sure my PC doesn't have one. Only optical I'm rollin is an optical drive!
I'm about to buy A Schiit Magni 2 Uber and Modi 2 Uber to drive my DT 990 250ohm and AKG K7XX 90% of the time that will be used for FPS gaming. I read that the way to still utilize the soundcard's features are to go optical from soundcard to DAC and then RCA from DAC to amp. Another interesting thing I haven't found much information on is for RCA using only the red RCA cable vs. using the red & white. What's the difference? Also these are the cables I'm looking at for the Schiit stack:
The vast majority of midi-compatible keyboards these days use USB Type B, so you'd want something like this, make sure you see that square-ish plug in the back of your keyboard. Plug that from your keyboard to your PC, power on, and you should be able to control instruments right away. If you aren't getting a response, go into FL Studio's midi settings and see that it's there and enabled
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