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Alright I'm back at my battlestation, so here's a crack at a more detailed answer post for you.
>I am looking for the yeast used in the Ambrosia Farm short mead kit.
Unfortunately, I cannot find the exact yeast for this kit; but it's because it's a kit. Kits intentionally leave some details short; for the reason that you won't be able to 100% duplicate everything. They want you buy that kit again, after all.
>I am looking for a fast acting 8-12% yeast.
I assume you mean 8-12% ABV tolerance. Checking out yeast manufacturer's websites is the way to go, then order the yeast online or pick it up at your local home brew store.
Wyeast's guide for beers.
Wyeast's guide for meads.
Chart for Lalvin. Mentions wines, but the descriptions carry well for mead.
There are tons more yeasts out there, and I can't possibly list them all; but this is a good starter for you to base your future Google adventures off of.
>I like the idea of drinking mead 7-14 days after I have made it.
I realize now you are looking for a short mead, which from my understanding is just a young mead that is drinkable in a little under a month's time. You'll likely be wanting a mead with a high flocculation rate. Flocculation is the process in which yeast will clump together, typically falling to the bottom of the container.
> I also would like to keg a gallon in an oak barrel for a couple months after I have removed the yeast.
This one is going to be a doozy to explain.
Gallon oak barrels (for aging) are typically hard to find, because typical oak barrels are meant for industrial, super bulk aging/production; meaning 55 gallon monsters. Albeit, this thing on Amazon looks nifty, but I'm unsure if this 'varnished exterior' would still allow for aging, despite the advertising.
My guide to you for looking for a barrel is to make sure it explicitly states that it's charred on the inside. That means its prepared for aging, it's not just a crappy decoration piece. Keep in mind that these barrels will also need to be taken care of when not in use. They need to have some kind of liquid in them, or else they dry out and warp and no longer become water-tight. My advice for you is to look into aging with oak chips and cubes instead. A lot less hassle and $$, especially for someone who's new into the hobby. Keep in mind that different oak types, as well as different material (cubes vs chips vs spirals) will all demand different times spent for aging.
Also, keep in mind you can't remove 100% of the yeast, and you really don't want to. The yeast is one of the major factors that makes a mead change over time. When racking from primary to secondary and so on, the goal isn't to remove all the yeast; just the dead yeast sludge from the bottom, as well as enough live yeast to make your aging rates controllable. You'll want your yeast to still be around during the oaking process, because the oak will release all kinds of chemicals, maybe some more sugar types for the yeast to enjoy. (Assuming the sugars are small enough.)
>Does it need refrigerated after yeast removal?
No. You won't want to be removing your yeast anyway, and the alcohol content will be high enough that very little of anything could survive in that environment. You may want to put it in a cool and dry place for long-term storage; but cool doesn't necessarily mean refrigeration.
Hope this all helps, sorry for spamming the ever living shit out of your inbox.
been a long time since I checked this account. I got my barrel here: [link]
no leakage problems so far after 3 batches