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I used this cheap one here for $20 [link]
The kit has everything you need including solder and a solder sucker. It’s not the best quality but it worked great for me. I didn’t want to spend a ton on something I wouldn’t use a lot. I did get a backlight mod for my original screen. However after soldering the speaker I think I will wait till I have more experience. It’s much more involved and I don’t think my skills are good enough for that yet. I was able to use the soldering iron to fix the original screens vertical lines easily in a few minutes.
One thing I do suggest is to have another person or one of those helping hand clips for soldering. My solder job didn’t turn out that good. If I had waited for my spouse to help hold the wires or got the helping hand it would have gone better.
The speaker wires are very forgiving. You can do a really bad job and it still works.
Can't help you with your first question. But I will say from experience working computers and gaming headsets. Take lots of pictures. Lots and lots you will need a diagram to get it back together. If you have repeated or similar colors of wire it is best to take some masking tape and label them and label the other side on your hand drawn digram.
Second don't clip the wires that will introduce interference in the system when you put them back together and it adds more failure points.
Unsoldering them is your best bet this the pictures and digram should let you put them all back just fine
Heat your iron then press the iron to the solder blob until the wire comes out repeat as many times as needed until all wires are Free.
I have this kit it's cheep it works it's not for pros but it will do this job and be good for occasional use.
Thanks for the response. I will order the reds then as I have only seen great things about them online. I did see the teals in a few comparisons online ( I believe they are called 2.0s and reds are 4.0s) and some even said the reds were stiffer but on paper I do think teals are like 5-10g more if I am not mistaken. I feel the safe bet is get the reds. I will order them and buy a soldering tool off amazon. I will probably have to buy some new mouse feet too. I have never soldered before so I am very inexperienced in this and not very knowledgeable. I did see some soldering kits off amazon for $20-$25 but heard any soldering kit worth it is really in the $100+ range. Would a $20 kit like this get the job done - [link] ? I am not trying to spend as much as I did on the mouse to replace the switches but will gladly spend $40 and some time to potentially fix this problem.
If you're just starting get something cheap. No need to go all out. You might ruin the kit as long as it's cheap it's fine
This kit I've purchased in the past when I was still learning. Temperature controlled, has a bit of solder and other little essentials
If you want something better I can send you links. But you dont need something expensive to learn.
I also recommend you try soldering on something else first before you attempt anything risky.
Anbes Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers [link]
You could try getting a cheap soldering kit? This one is $17 though
Get yourself one of these soldering kits. It has everything you need to get started with soldering (though I recommend using solder wick instead of the pump for desoldering.) Get some Bourns 500k push-pull pots (I recently bought a pair for $16 from an Amazon marketplace seller) for both controls. You could wire them up to coil split each pickup independently (assuming they have 4 conductors) as well as to bypass the controls entirely, have one pickup active all the time, etc. They're incredibly versatile.
Also, some new pickups and a Switchcraft jack will help immensely.
Since you've already got people offering help, I won't feel so bad saying that you should learn to solder. It's a wonderfully useful skill and fun.
Here is a great starter kit from Amazon for $20. It even comes with some solder.
While it isn't possible to replace the switches without soldering, the solder job is a lot simpler than it seems. Just watch a good tutorial and get a decent 20 dollar solder kit off amazon and you'll be set. It's a good skill to learn. This solder set is amazing and actually comes with a solder sucker which you need to replace a switch anyways. I've used it hundreds of times and it's held up very well.
I bought the cheapest soldering kit on Amazon and it's lasted me through like 9 builds/re-builds so far. Still working fine. Something like this. I don't know exactly how accurate the temperature dial is, but it seems to be about right on mine.
Buying quality's never a bad idea, but you really don't have to if you're not using it a ton.
I hear you, I OBSESSED over this for a few days. And I still got the first result on Amazon and wasted two days I could have been tinkering or doing anything else haha.
Here's the one I got.
Looks like the price ticked up or I got a deal or something. Definitely get a helping hands or similar device to hold your projects, so incredibly helpful. Can find those at any hobby store or Amazon for cheap too.
I'm just about to order my first custom mechanical keyboard (quefrency) and I'm wondering how much solder I'm going to need. Will this kit have enough?
I had an iron already. The one I have is listed on Amazon.
Link to the iron I have and used.
I ran it at 450 and it worked great. Just remember to keep the tip clean and everything just works better.
There are plenty on Amazon, both as a station and stand-alone unit, that gets plenty hot. This cheapo one I use is enough (the stand is trash though)
Solder has a wide melting point range (something like 2000-450F) so if your solder isn't melting, turn up the heat or get some different solder.
Honestly, for PCB soldering u don't need anything fancy. I got a full soldering kit on Amazon for like, 20 bucks
I got this one personally.
I would. Here's one that's apparently decent for the price [link] (I have no idea if it actually is). And it comes with a bit of solder, extra tips, and a desoldering pump which would be useful.
Thank you. Question: bought this soldering kit from Amazon: [link]
Is any solder wire good to use to solder together my current turn signal's wire with the blue/yellow male bullet connector? Or do I still need a female end? If so, do you know where I can buy this female end...?
Thanks for all the info! Have a few questions:
By nearfield do you mean only when im sitting at the computer? Was thinking about using the kit for a tv system as well possibly would i need a beefier amp for that? Viewing distance would be about 10 feet away in my bedroom
Would you recommend a certain gauge of wire? I have some old 16 gauge from amazon basics, would this suffice or should i buy something else?
Is there some kind of certain solder i should use? I was planing to buy a soldering kit:
would this be overkill or good enough to do everything with the speakers? or i guess parts express might sell something comparable
Did you need to buy extra screws or did your kit come with them?
I saw recommendations to either paint/chalk paint/veneer/vinyl wrap the speakers. Which did you use to finish? I've never done either of the three outside of some basic spray painting so this is my most daunting task about the speakers.
ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers [link]
It's a best seller on Amazon. It has an on and off switch on the cord as well as a simple temp control knob that seems to work pretty well. It comes with kinda crappy solder. I would pick up some 60/40 solder (my preference).
Some thoughts on the IPS:
Overall, I think this really is the game changer everyone has been waiting for. I love my two AGS-101's but, with the prices rising and the availability of this kit, it's a no brainer. Again, I bought this cheap soldering iron and practiced a few times; that's really how easy the install is if you have steady hands. I cannot speak for this kit without the brightness options activated.
Hope this helps!
That's weird that you're still getting flickering, I wonder if when you removed the clear gel that you sliced the layer of copper inside the strip and that's what's causing the flicker - can you try cutting it beyond where you removed the gel, and carefully removing the gel again?
Another idea could be that it's just too long for the controller to light without power injection - are you just running one strip of them, or did you put 2 or 3 of them in series with each other?
Your paper under the connectors idea is solid - could also use pliers or something to try to bend them down yourself.
FYI you can get a soldering iron kit for less than $20 on Amazon
This was the cheap one I started out with. While almost everything in that kit is really cheap, the iron itself was actually really good. [link]
I "upgraded" to the Weller WE1010 because everyone seems to praise it. Its not much better and I regret it. The only things nice about it is that it heats up a few seconds faster and you can see when it's actually at temperature. Outside of that, I find it even more difficult to solder with than the cheap Amazon one. The TS100 is interesting to me thoughand I may get it eventually.. I still get out the other one every now and then when I get frustrated at this one.
Wow, thanks for taking the time to explain this to me in detail, I really appreciate it. I fixed the link for the power supply, but it's basically just a 12V 5A (60W) power supply, so I think it should be sufficient.
I'm planning on picking up a soldering iron since I don't have one, I was looking at this set.
Just so I'm clear, when I want the panel on, I send 5V to the MOSFET to open it, and to control the "brightness" of the panel, I use PWM?
Would this soldering kit be what I need? I'm not sure what tip I need or what kind of flux:
Is this soldering kit any good?
I want to get a cheap kit and practice de/resolding my old CM board and eventually buy a higher end kit. Will this kit be enough or do I have to go with something more expensive?
What charger so you use with that lipo? Any other etc I might need to consider? I didnt even think about voltage alarms.
I was looking at this for my soldering iron.
Check This out on Amazon. Nice kit although you can get cheaper ones with less accessories. I have one of these chinese blue ones and for the price they are really nice.
TLDR: No instructions came with the DIY kit, which is probably fine for the most part, but I had no idea wtf i was doing, so I wanted to post some info in case others were running into the same lack of how-to information when it came to simple stuff like "which wires do I solder to the usb-a/usb-c/aviator (gx16-4) connector?" or even "How to fish the cable through the paracord/techflex sleeving?" Also to see if any assumptions i made were wrong before I plug this into the Massdrop ALT keyboard that's en route.
Prior to attemping this, I haven't done anything electrical related anything, didn't own any of the tools other than a set of wire cutters and I basically didn't know what search terms to even search for.. so keep that in mind when reading. Also, ZapCables weren't taking orders when I wanted to make an order, so I figured "how hard could it be for a newb?" Wrong.
Things I still don't know:
- [solved: it works!] I'm not sure if my cable actually works because I don't own any USB-C devices other than a power bank that has a USB-C connection. I plugged it in to an ac adapter connected to the wall then connected it to the power bank and it turned on AND the cable didn't melt (hooray), so I assume power is working.
- I have no idea how to test if the rest of it works. I realized after I pieced this all together I probably could have tested the connections somehow, but I really don't want to dismantle this thing now. I'm planning to just plug it in to the ALT when it arrives and do a rain dance in the hopes that everything works.
Step 1: I bought a cheap soldering kit off of amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and hoped for the best.
Step 2: Stripping the usb cable and incredibly tiny wires inside
- Wire Cutters/wire stripping tool: this worked fine for the USB cable casing, but not for the wires inside. For the inner wires, it only worked 50% of the time because I couldn't get the feel right and kept cutting the strands of the wires when peeling them off. I bought a wire stripping tool and the one i got didn't work as the wires were too small. SIGH.
- Soldering iron: i saw some people just melt the casing off, and this kind of worked, but because the already tiny ass wires were stranded (had even more impossibly thin wires inside), the plastic melted between the strands and it took just as long to clean it off before tinning the wire.
- What worked for me: I ended up figuring out I could use the soldering iron to melt the plastic away to create a notch where I wanted to start stripping the wire away. Once I melted around the wire, I used my fingers and pulled the plastic off, and the underlying strands of wire were clean and in tact.
Step 3: Tinning the stripped wires
- What worked for me: I set the soldering heat on the soldering iron to be around 350deg or a little less as I found any higher and the solder would burn and disappear before I could get it on the wires. I took the tweezers and twisted the strands so they would not come apart when applying heat. Then I heated up the twisted wire with the soldering iron and put the solder on it and moved it all around. Seemed to work.
Step 4: Soldering tinned wires to the connector USB-A connector
- I have no idea if I did this correctly. Even though the packaging for USB-A had the wires in order GND, D+, D- and VCC marked, it wasn't clear to me which orientation to have the connector so that the label made sense. I assumed if your wires are on the left, and the connector is on the right, then the top connection point on the USB-A connector was GND. The connection points weren't labeled sooooo I hoped for the best. Once that was done, i assembled the rest of the connector's metal casing. To solder, I added heat to the tinned wire and it connected. I was paranoid about having the solder spread to the other connection points (the USB-C connector has no barriers unlike the A) so i didn't add extra on top.
Step 5: Fishing the cable through the paracord/TechFlex
- There's some videos of how to do this for the paracord on youtube, but I couldn't find a way to hack it and make it faster, so i pushed it through one aggravating inch at at time. The Techflex was easy because.. well it can flex.
Step 6: Soldering the male side of the Aviator/GX16-4 to your USB cable
- I don't think it matters if you choose male or female part of the connector. I chose the male side because it was easiest to detach the cover (just unscrew it) and expose the solder points. First I threaded the cable through the heat shrink to the USB-A connector. You don't have to do this but I found not all of the heat shrink pieces I got could fit over the connector. Next, I threaded the USB-Cable with the paracord/techflex through cover that was just unscrewed and left it on the cable. Looking at the male GX16-4 solder points, they are labeled 1-4, and I chose the soldering points 1:GND, 2:D+, 3:D-, 4:VCC. You'll do the same for the female connector.
Special note: I emailed ZapCables because I was initially confused AF when I saw the GX16 connector and had no idea what to do. John promptly replied with the tip about the labels. Thanks John! He also mentioned they might be making their own tutorial which I think they should do because I found this hard given I don't have any experience doing this.
When the soldering was done, I connected the GX16-4 cover back to the male connector. Be sure not to twist the cable while you're re-attaching. I ended up tearing the wires off from over-twisting and proceeded to die inside when I realized I had to do it all over.
At this point, you have half the cable and it's pretty much the same for the other half EXCEPT that for the female GX16-4 cable, detaching the cover to expose the solder points requires you have an small screw driver to unscrew yet another miniscule screw. The set of tiny screw drivers I use for my glasses/computers was not small enough, I was able to find one that worked in a random set i had in the garage. The size was not marked, so I have no idea what to tell you guys :( If you manage to get it off, twise the cover 1/4 rotation to the left and then pull.
Step 7: Do steps 2-6 for the other side of the cable + female GX16-4 connector
If you decide to go this route and you also have no idea what you're doing, I suggest you definitely order a little more length for the usb cable/paracord/techflex. I got a 4ft cable, and in the end, with connectors on and all, i'm 3-4 inches short of 4ft because of all the mistakes I made.
I hope this helps someone who wants a nice cable but can't be bothered to wait.. but can be bothered to be frustrated by the assembly process.
EDIT: Update on the cable, some of the parts that i soldered between the cable did not have a good connection, bending the wire ever so slightly would cause the keyboard to connect/disconnect, so i probably have to redo the connections to the male/female gx16-4 connectors.
EDIT2: After a quick email to ZapCables, John mentioned that i had too much exposed wire that was touching (near solder points) and suggested I resolder with less exposed wire to prevent this from happening. Rather than do that and figure out how to desolder, I took some electrical tape and wrapped any exposed wire connecting at the solder points to the USB-A/USB-C/GX16-4 connector. Happy to say, it's all working and I am now successfully using this cable. 5/5 for ZapCables and John for help.
This $20 Kit on Amazon might be goo entry level... I have NO idea if the iron is any god but have seen people use them and they work fine. This one comes with a multimeter for a few bucks more. The tool you will find a lot of use for is that curved tweezer. It can open switches, hold components, pick up clipped resistor/diode leads etc.
If you have never soldered do NOT let an expensive keyboard be the first time... get some PCB's and resistors and then watch youtube videos of soldering... Pete from 1upkeyboards has tons... you might need to scrub through to get to the soldering or just search youtube for soldering videos. Soldering is not that hard but if you do not know what you are doing it is easy to scew the board up and ruining a board sucks.
Think twice, solder once... the biggest mistakes are not thinking it through and then you find you soldered the switches and plate BEFORE the stabilizers or the Pro Micro before switches and desoldering is a pita and is easy to burn the pads.
Try the Sweet16 or the 9Key first. You have to setup the QMK software no matter what so those are nice affordable ways to get a board built fast and then build and flash your firmware.
I got this soldering iron kit last summer and it working well enough, I'm still really bad at soldering though, I need to practice more, here is a link to a logic analyzer that Ben eater links on his website on one of the 8 bit computer pages
In terms of the 6502 upgrades, I'd recommend for sure doing the 6551 serial upgrade early on, it's pretty helpful
I bought a cheap soldering kit from Amazon for $17 [link]
Also a Dremel tool for sanding surfaces and cutting plastic [link]
This is the battery and holder I got on eBay:
This is the soldering kit I got, seems like it has anything I’d ever need as a beginner soldering apprentice
I was super nervous going into it but I watched like 3 videos and a couple videos on unsoldering and it was a piece of cake.
Also get this while you're at it, it's a lifesaver
I've got through about 8 keyboard builds/rebuilds with a generic $20 kit off Amazon and it's still holding up. Like, this'd be fine if you're not willing to drop $100 on something you may rarely use. Or most of the cheap adjustable ones on there.
Check out this guide, watch a couple soldering tutorials, switch soldering is some of the most basic stuff.
I bought this ages ago, great kit. link here: amazon product page
This is what I've been using for a few months. It's a good little iron, will definitely do for whatever you might want to do. Comes with a kit with a lot basic stuff. Cost is $25 plus free shipping with Prime.
And then you can buy the two Nintendo security bits that will open every cartridge from GB through N64 as well as every console SNES through GameCube. I got one of each on Amazon for I think $6 total.
It's an smd diode. You may have gotten extras with your keyboard. As far as soldering you can pick up a cheap good one on Amazon for 20 bucks
Anbes Soldering Iron Tool Kit with PU Carry Bag,60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Iron,5pcs Tip,Desoldering Pump,Tin Wire Tube,Soldering Iron Stand,Tweezers,Wire Stripper Cutter,2pcs Electronic Wire [link]
I've used that one to solder (and desolder) switches and Mill max sockets on probably 6 or 7 keyboards before I upgraded to one of these
YIHUA 862BD+ SMD ESD Safe 2 in 1... [link]
I've gotten this kit since it was my first time soldering and WYCTIN tin soldee to complete the job.
Thanks for the info, I actually have a roll of 37/63 solder somewhere around here and I have a heat adjustable soldering iron..but I feel like it is a piece of junk? This is the kit that I bought a while back so I should have most of the things you mentioned.
I also bought a helping hands tool but I haven't soldered anything since I bought it. I have high hopes for it though because it's extremely frustrating to solder without it. I had to fix some broken pigtail connectors on a car. While it worked in a pinch, the solder job was ugly as hell and thick/globby. I will have to practice a bunch before I actually try to make a cable.
Product name: Anbes Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers
Highest price ever: $34.74
Lowest price ever: $18.37
Average price: $22.38
Previous price: $33.83
Current price: $17.99
Last price change: -47%
Price change from average: -19%
Price change from all-time low: This is the lowest price ever!
The item was in stock as of 29/04/2021 07:28:52 (UTC)
If you want an easy option here's what I'd do:
https://keyhive.xyz/shop/corne-v3 Buy this partially assembled for $33 (it is in stock in white)
https://keyhive.xyz/shop/elite-c buy two of these because micro USB cables suck and USB-C are awesome
https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ buy this cheap soldering iron kit...you're just soldering the microcontroller on with through hole pins, it's really easy and forgiving.
https://splitkb.com/products/kailh-low-profile-choc-switches?pr_prod_strat=copurchase&pr_rec_pid=4348147957837&pr_ref_pid=4445745152077&pr_seq=uniform&variant=33100113379405 buy 50 Kailh Choc Brown switches (or Pale blue if you like them loud and clicky, but brown is great if you don't want to learn stuff about switches)
https://splitkb.com/collections/switches-and-keycaps/products/kailh-choc-transparent-keycaps Buy 50 clear keycaps...and I think you might need a TRRS and USB cable as well to finish your kit off.
The other option is to lurk r/mechmarket and see what is available but be prepared for sticker shock.
edit: You could get https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/mwxni9/eumt_h_built_corne_w_paypal/ for $100 and a set of Cherry MX compatible keycaps of your choosing and be good to go.
That works in a pinch, it has a needle style tip. Is ideal? Heck no! If you are careful? Probably, with practice.
It's called flux. It comes in liquid and gel form. Flux prevents oxygen from contaminating the solder while it's being applied. It also facilitates heat transfer and helps solder to bond properly with the surface it's being applied to.
For starting tools something like this or this will be fine. For beginners a project like replacing a battery inside an old game cartridge is a great place to start. Should you go this route you'll also a Nintendo screwdriver kit. Check Voultar's YouTube video "Replacing Dead Batteries in Game Carts".
For something more serious check out this YouTube video "Basic Soldering for Electronics". It's old (1980), but professionally made and still relevant. Ben Heck and Voultar are cool but if you want a truly educational experience for free then this video is it.
Not really, basic soldering kit for $20 on amazon and if you want to get fancy
You may want to use a smaller iron or a smaller tip for that one if you have one available. But I'd recommend using a smaller iron for that ki d of work in general just for the ease of maneuvering. This is the kit I use for this type of stuff personally. But I also keep this on hand for when I do t have an outlet handy. It's a bit more pricey, but worth every penny in my book.
Just get something like this you really don’t need anything fancy. Heat the thing up, touch the little roll of solder to it, strip some 22ga wire, heat the tip of that up and touch some of the solder to it, then heat one of the copper pads on the strip up and touch a dot of the solder to it, then grab that wire you just made and touch it to the little solder dot you made on the strip and put your solder iron between them. It’s very easy. Here is a YouTube video of some dude showing you how it’s done.
The solder wire it provides is stated to be made of tin and "various metal alloys".
It also states in the user manual that the solder wire is:
The amazon ad doesn't have any info about the solder. All this info I've gotten comes from the user manual.
Here's the link to the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The issue is going to be a disconnected wire underneath your pick guard.
Most likely this is being caused by a break at the solder joint.
To fix this, you're going to have to open up your guitar and examine the wires. Look for any obvious breaks, or wires that don't seem to be 'connected' to anything.
This diagram should be pretty close to how your guitar is wired:
Take a close look at the pickup selector; if just one pickup is working that's probably where the break is.
In order to fix this you'll need a soldering iron, and some solder. Something like this has everything you need.
Youtube can show you the basics of soldering. It's not too tough to learn, and it's a good thing to pickup if you're into guitar.
I was looking at this soldering iron from amazon
also do i need temperature controlled soldering iron?
This should be adequate enough for a cable, but idk about a macropad/numpad
They're extremely cheap.
Here's an entire kit.
Edit: and solder
I mean, I use this just fine.
This video covers soldering keyboards.
In general, I like to solder at 350C using quality rosin core solder. If you only plan to build a single keyboard, a cheap soldering kit off Amazon will do the trick. If you really want to get into building, a quality iron like the Hakko FX888D, TS100, or Yihua 939D is a great place to start.
This is the type of soldering iron i have. I purchased a kit on amazon that has some starter stuff. Again i would recommend buying more tips as the ones that come with these kits arent the best quality. And Tin your tip often!
Also, this is a super cheap soldering iron, but it has worked for the past 2 years.
I have done RGH on xbox 360, smd soldering, as well as trace repair with this iron. People say you need the haccko or the ts100 if you want a good iron, and yes, if you make money soldering/repairing electronics, it would be in your best interest to get a quality soldering iron, But if you are learning and only solder every so often to fix a chewed up wire, this iron is the way to go
The cheapest one you can find on Amazon. 😂
Like pwd666 said, the very first thing you should do is check to make sure your battery can support higher amperage. You can push a lot of components in an ebike, but the battery has the most risk. Pushing a battery beyond its rated limits can cause a violent fire (literal jets of flame shooting out) that you probably won't be able to extinguish. With that out of the way... :)
You might be able to mod the shunt in your controller for more amperage. That'd give you more grunt without buying anything new; assuming you have a soldering iron. If you don't have a soldering iron, I bought this cheap ass one on Amazon recently ($26) and it has worked great for the small jobs I do. You should also pick up a power meter so that you can keep an eye on how far you're pushing the battery & controller. The motor is usually the last thing to burn up.
Alternatively, you can simply replace the controller with a more powerful one (same voltage, higher amperage). There are some correct comments in this thread, and some that are not so correct. For example, you don't need to change the windings in your motor to increase the current.
Ultimately, the controller regulates current drawn by the motor, but the windings in the motor do have an effect on how much current can be drawn. The formula is I = V ÷ R where I is current, V is voltage, and R is resistance (in Ohms). So the resistance in your complete setup — battery, controller, and motor — determines your maximum amperage. For example, if you have a 48V battery in a circuit with 0.6Ω resistance, your unregulated amperage would be 96A. Thicker wires in the motor will reduce the resistance, but the motor is only one component in the system. Battery internal resistance is usually the most significant factor limiting max current.
It is possible to build a setup that can handle unregulated current, but it is atypical until you get into bikes that are more motorcycle than they are bicycle. In your setup, you'll almost certainly be limited by what your battery can supply. That means you need a controller that can regulate current.
I used this iron for my first couple builds. It's far from perfect, but it should do basic through-hole soldering (85% of keyboard assembly) just fine
If you're just going to be soldering switches, most any basic soldering kit will do fine. You should also get some Super Lube and Band-Aids to lube your stabilizers. Zealios are going to be the closest switch to Holy Pandas that you can find on kbdfans, though the different spring weights do change the feel a lot. You should order a switch tester pack with the different weights to get a feel for what you like.
I've had good experience with cheap adjustable soldering irons. This would be comparable to tig welding instead of the "dremel" way of "mig" welding 1cm of material at a time.... I've always seen the dremel thing as more of a cheap trick than anything useful.
Other than that, I have hundreds of fasteners on hand, so I generally prefer to attach things with machine screws. You can either back them up with a nut, or just screw them directly into a slightly undersized hole.
For larger models, either use bolts or torx head decking screws. I really recommend the "expensive" torx screws that feel like spring steel because they last for over 100 years even with regular re-use. Treating the plastic like wood actually works out pretty well in my experience.
Use superglue on PLA or epoxy on PETG if you need to make thin-wall shells like a helmet. Glue contaminates the recyclability so generally don't use it for something if you don't have to (or if if will be bondo/painted anyways).
Follow on, they're cheap: [link]
Soldering a keeb is a very simple job that doesn't require any sophisticated and expensive tools, so something as basic as this will do just fine. Just make sure you have some degree of temperature control on your iron. Add a couple tubes of 60-40 solder, and one of those steel scouring sponges that you might have in your kitchen, and you're all set. I've been building my keebs using my el-cheapo equipment, it's fine.
You can learn how to solder by practicing it on a perfboard. Those are dirt cheap pieces of perforated plastic that you can easily find in any electronics store like Radioshack or whatever. Buy some solid core wire along with those, cut tiny pieces of them and solder them onto the perfboard for practice. You'll be ready to build a keyboard with a couple hours of practicing, it's really not that hard.
This is the iron i ordered. Comes with 5 tips. Looks like a couple are pretty small. [link]
I want to buy one of those e-paper hats for my Zero, but I still need to solder the pins on.
So my questions:
This is the e-paper hat
> shipping is almost as expensive so I'm starting to save for investing in some quality tools.
you don't need that nice of kit to make good progress. Where are you at?
this is the kit I am using. Its cheap chinesium, but you can do good work with it.
throw in a flux pen and a tin of rosin paste and you're nearly professional tier.
I don't even have one of those fancy helping hand clamps, though they make the job much easier. I keep my soldering iron in a coffee cup pointed upwards and then bring wires and solder together on top of it with my hands. then once all my individual components have solder on them already, then only do I start handling the iron so that I don't have to fiddle with needing 3 hands.
I got this kit from Amazon for less than $18 [link]
you'll pretty much have to get a soldering kit but they are pretty cheap on amazon.
There have been a few posts in /r/DIY recently about making them (this or this for example) reading the comments there will probably help. /r/RetroPie/ will also be a good resource, people are always posting their latest builds. I haven't done one like this personally but reading those makes me think I could if I wanted to.
As for 3D printing, check your local library. I know a few locally are starting programs for making stuff with a 3D printer and there are lots of plans for a case online (here for example)
I know I really didn't answer your question but hopefully I was helpful. Look forward to seeing what you end up making!
Yep, this works. Thank you! Will this do the job? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZ31W3M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1XLBTH0MIQMMO&psc=1
Currently low on funds and I don't want anything that is super expensive and it looks like it has everything that I need.
Simply sold it into the connector. You can unsolder it if needed:
The Iron is sold under several brand names. I have it and find it perfectly acceptable. The solder is okay, and the stand is pretty nice. The Solder sucker works for when you make a mistake, but do not expect to desolder a whole keyboard with it.
As far as caps, check out NPKC.
If I am not going to do much soldering at all, could I buy this kit:
And then return the items once I'm done with it?